1.
Combine all the ingredients in a large pot and simmer, uncovered, until thick, about 2 hours, stirring occasionally.
2.
Spoon into sterilized jars and seal while hot.
Cape Malay Green Mango Atjar
Yield: About 3 pints (1.4 L)
Heat Scale: Medium
The important thing to remember about this “pickle” is to be certain that the mangos are always covered with the oil mixture. If you remove any fruit, be sure the remainder is covered with the atjar mixture to prevent spoilage. (Note: This recipe requires advance preparation.)
1 gallon (3.8 L) water
4 tablespoons (60 mL) salt
5-6 pounds (2.3-2.8 kg) green mangos
2 cups (473 mL) vegetable oil
5 jalapeño chiles, stems and seeds removed, chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
2 tablespoons (30 mL) curry paste
1 teaspoon (5 mL) turmeric
1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground fenugreek
1.
Combine the water and salt in a large pot or bowl and stir until the salt is dissolved.
2.
Peel the mangos, cut the meat from the pits, and dice it. Add the mango flesh to the water, making sure that it is completely covered. Set aside to marinate mangos for 2 days.
3.
In a large saucepan, combine the oil, chiles, garlic, curry paste, turmeric, and fenugreek. Slowly bring the oil mixture to a boil and cook for 5 minutes.
4.
Drain the mango meat and dry it with paper towels. Divide the mangos among sterilized jars and pour enough boiling oil into each jar to cover the mango meat completely. Seal the jars and process in a boiling water bath for 20 minutes. Let the atjar age for at least a week before serving.
Berbere (Ethiopian Chile Paste)
Yield: About 1 cup (236 mL)
Heat Scale: Hot
Originally used as the sauce for kifto, fresh raw meat dishes, berbere is now used as both an ingredient and a condiment in Ethiopian cooking. Like harissa from North Africa, it is essentially a curry-like paste with an abundance of small, hot red chiles. Serve sparingly as a condiment with grilled meats and poultry or add it to soups and stews. This paste will keep for a couple of months refrigerated, and many cooks thin it with water or vinegar to make it pourable.
1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground cardamom
2 teaspoons (10 mL) cumin seeds
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) coriander seeds
¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) black peppercorns
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) fenugreek seeds
1 small onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled
1 cup (236 mL) water
14 dried piquin chiles, stems removed
1 tablespoon (15 mL) ground cayenne
2 tablespoons (30 mL) ground paprika
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) ground ginger
¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) ground allspice
¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) ground cloves
3 tablespoons (45 mL) dry red wine
3 tablespoons (45 mL) vegetable oil
1.
Heat a skillet over high heat. Add the cardamom, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, peppercorns, and fenugreek and toast, shaking constantly, for a couple of minutes, until they start to release their aroma. Remove the skillet from the heat and allow the spices to cool. In a mortar or spice mill, grind the spices to a powder.
2.
Combine the onions, garlic, and ½ cup (118 mL) of the water in a blender or food processor and purée until smooth. Add the roasted spice powder, piquins, ground cayenne, paprika, ginger, allspice, nutmeg, and cloves and continue to blend. Slowly add the remaining ½ cup (118 mL) water, the wine, and the oil and blend until smooth.
3.
Transfer the mixture to a saucepan. Simmer for 15 minutes to blend the flavors and thicken the sauce to a paste.
Sambhar Powder
Yield: ¼ cup (59 mL)
Heat Scale: Hot
Sambhar curry powder is fundamental to South Indian Brahmin vegetarian cooking. Brahmin curries are known for their crunchy, nutty taste, which they get from the dals (dried legumes such as lentils, peas, or chickpeas) that are used in curry powders and as a thickener in curries. To retain the desired nutty flavor, don’t soak the dals before using. Sambhar powders are widely used to flavor pulses (dried beans, peas, and lentils), braised and stewed vegetables, and sauces. If I’m making a large amount of this powder, I roast each spice separately, but for a small amount I roast them all together.
1 tablespoon (15 mL) coriander seeds
2 teaspoons (10 mL) cumin seeds
1 (2-inch [5 cm]) cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon (5 mL) brown mustard seeds
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) black peppercorns
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) fenugreek seeds
1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground turmeric
6 to 8 small dried red chiles, such as piquins, stems and seeds removed
1 tablespoon (15 mL) channa dal (yellow split peas)
2 teaspoons (10 mL) toor dal (pigeon peas)
1.
Heat a heavy skillet over high heat. Add the coriander, cumin, cinnamon, mustard, peppercorns, and fenugreek, and dry-roast until the seeds darken and become fragrant, being careful that they don’t burn. Add the turmeric and roast for an additional minute. Remove the mixture from the skillet and cool completely.
2.
Lower the heat to medium. Add the chiles and toast for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the chiles from the skillet and let them cool.
3.
Add both dals to the skillet and roast them until they darken, stirring frequently to prevent burning, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and allow to cool completely.
4.
When all the ingredients are cool, place them in a spice mill or coffee grinder and process to a powder. Store the mixture in an airtight container.
Hurry Curry
Yield: About 1½ cups (354 mL)
Heat Scale: Hot
There are scores of curry powders on the market today. Purists may frown on them, but they are indeed useful for making curries in a hurry. Even in India, curry powders have become an integral part of middle-class family life. The following curry powder, called bafat, is from southwestern India. It can be used in meat, fish, or vegetable dishes. It can even be used the same day for two completely different dishes, each with its own unique flavor.
⅓ cup (79 mL) coriander seeds
¼ cup (59 mL) cumin seeds
2 tablespoons (30 mL) mustard seeds
2 tablespoons (30 mL) peppercorns
2 tablespoons (30 mL) whole cloves
1 tablespoon (15 mL) fenugreek seeds
2 tablespoons (30 mL) ground cardamom
2 tablespoons (30 mL) ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons (30 mL) ground turmeric
¼ cup (59 mL) freshly ground hot red chile powder
1.
Preheat the oven to 200ºF (100ºC).
2.
Spread the whole spices on a cookie sheet and bake for 15 minutes, taking care that they do not burn. Remove them from the oven and set aside to cool.
3.
Grind the cooled spices in a spice mill in small batches. Transfer them to a bowl. Add the ground spices and mix well. Store the curry powder in an airtight container.
Hot Madras Curry Paste
Yield: About 2 cups (473 mL)
Heat Scale: Hot
This recipe is from England’s “King of Curries,” Pat Chapman, who says it’s his standard recipe for a curry paste. Use it in place of commercial curry pastes or powders.
4 tablespoons (60 mL) ground coriander
4 tablespoons (60 mL) ground red chile, such as cayenne
4 teaspoons (20 mL) ground cumin
4 teaspoons (20 mL) garam masala (an Indian spice mix available in Asian markets)
1 tablespoon (15 mL) ground turmeric
1½ teaspoons (7.5 mL) ground fenugreek seeds
1½ teaspoons (7.5 mL) ground fennel seeds
1¼ teaspoons (1.25 mL) ground ginger
1¼ teaspoons (1.25 mL) dry yellow mustard
½ cup (118 mL) distilled white vinegar
1 cup (236 mL) water
⅔ cup (158 mL) corn oil
1.
In a bowl, mix the ground spices together. Add the vinegar and water and mix into a paste. Let stand for 15 minutes.
2.
In a large pan, heat the oil over high heat. Add the paste (careful of the sputtering), lower the heat, and stir-fry for 5 to 10 minutes. As the liquid reduces, the paste will begin to make a regular bubbling noise (hard to describe, but it goes
chup-chup-chup
) if you don’t stir, and it will splatter. This is your audible cue that it is ready. To tell whether the spices are cooked, take the pan off the stove and let stand for 3 to 4 minutes. If the oil floats to the top, the spices are cooked. If not, add a little more oil and repeat.
3.
Bottle the paste in sterilized jars. Then heat up a little more oil and top off the paste by pouring in enough oil to cover. Seal the jars and store. Properly cooked, it will last indefinitely.
Green Masala Paste
Yield: About 2 cups (473 mL)
Heat Scale: Medium
This recipe is also from Pat Chapman, who wrote to me: “This curry paste is green in color because of its use of coriander leaves [cilantro] and mint. You can buy it factory made, but it does not have the delicious fresh taste of this recipe. You will come across green masala paste in the Indian home where it is used to enhance curry dishes and impart a subtle flavour that can be obtained in no other way.” (Note: This recipe requires advance preparation.)
1 teaspoon (5 mL) fenugreek seeds
6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons (10 mL) finely chopped fresh ginger
¾ cup (177 mL) fresh mint leaves
¾ cup (177 mL) fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon (5 mL) salt
1 tablespoon (15 mL) turmeric
2 teaspoons (10 mL) ground red chile, such as cayenne
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) ground cloves
1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground cardamom seeds
½ cup (118 mL) distilled white vinegar
½ cup (118 mL) vegetable oil
¼ cup (59 mL) sesame oil
1.
Soak the fenugreek seeds in water overnight. They will swell and acquire a jelly-like coating. Strain the fenugreek and discard the water.
2.
Combine the soaked fenugreek, garlic, ginger, mint, cilantro, salt, turmeric, chile powder, cloves, and cardamom in a blender or food processor and purée.
3.
Add the vinegar and enough water to make a creamy paste.
4.
In a wok, heat the oils over high heat. Add the paste. It will splatter a bit, so be careful. Stir constantly to prevent the paste from sticking until the water content is cooked out, about 5 minutes. As the liquid reduces,
the paste will begin to make a regular bubbling noise (hard to describe, but it goes
chup-chup-chup
) if you don’t stir, and it will splatter. This is your audible cue that it is ready. To tell whether the spices are cooked, take the wok off the stove and let stand for 3 to 4 minutes. If the oil floats to the top, the spices are cooked. If not, add a little more oil and repeat.
5.
Bottle the paste in sterilized jars. Then heat up a little more oil and top off the paste by pouring in enough oil to cover. Seal the jars and store.
Sri Lankan Dark Curry Paste
Yield: About 1 cup (236 mL)
Heat Scale: Hot
Some Sri Lankan curries are quite dark—almost black—because the various seeds that are used are toasted or roasted to a dark brown color. They are also quite hot, as is this basic southern paste that can be used whenever curry paste or powder is called for.
2 dried red New Mexican chiles, stems and seeds removed
10 small, hot dried red chiles, such as piquins, stems and seeds removed
1 tablespoon (15 mL) uncooked rice
1 tablespoon (15 mL) fresh, grated coconut or shredded, unsweetened coconut
2 tablespoons (30 mL) coriander seeds
1 tablespoon (15 mL) cumin seeds
1 tablespoon (15 mL) fennel seeds
1 teaspoon (5 mL) cardamom seeds
1 teaspoon (5 mL) fenugreek seeds
1 (2-inch [5 cm]) cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon (5 mL) dark brown mustard seeds
6 whole cloves
5 curry leaves (optional)
½ cup (118 mL) distilled white vinegar
½ cup (118 mL) vegetable oil
1.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
2.
Roast the chiles on a cookie sheet for 5 to 10 minutes, until they turn very dark. Remove the pan from the oven and allow the chiles to cool.
3.
In a dry skillet, roast the rice, coconut, coriander, cumin, fennel, cardamom, fenugreek, cinnamon, and mustard over medium heat, stirring often, for 5 minutes or until everything turns dark brown, almost black.
4.
Combine the roasted chiles, roasted spices, cloves, and curry leaves in a spice mill and blend to a fine powder.
5.
In a bowl, combine the powder with the vinegar and enough water to make a creamy paste. Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or skillet over medium heat. Add the paste and cook for about 5 minutes.
Andhra Pradesh Ripe Red Chile Chutney
Yield: 2-3 cups (500-708 mL)
Heat Scale: Varies
This recipe was collected in India by contributor Linda Lynton, who noted: “This chutney will last a year under tropical Indian conditions, so it could well last longer in cooler climates.”
2 pounds (1.1 kg) red chiles (New Mexican variety for a mild chutney, red jalapeños for a hot chutney), stems removed
1 tablespoon (15 mL) salt
¾ cup (177 mL) tamarind paste (available in Asian markets)
1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground turmeric
1 cup (236 mL) sesame oil
¼ cup (59 mL) fenugreek seeds, roasted and ground to a powder
1.
In a food processor, combine the chiles, salt, and tamarind paste and process to a coarse purée. Store the mixture in an airtight, sterile jar in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days.
2.
Heat the sesame oil. Add the fenugreek powder and stir well. Pour the mixture over the chiles in the jar and mix thoroughly. The chutney is ready to eat with curries.