This was the most unusual recipe I tasted during my videotaping sojourn to Jamaica. It is not surprising that it is chef Norma Shirley’s creation; after all, she received her culinary training in New York State. Norma notes that this side dish can be served with bechamel sauce.
3 ounces (84 g) butter, divided
1 medium onion, peeled and diced
¼-½ teaspoon (1.25-2.5 mL) finely chopped Scotch bonnet chile (or habanero)
8-10 cups (1.9-2.3 L) callaloo or spinach leaves (washed)
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 ounces (112 g) cream cheese
2 ounces (56 g) montrachet cheese, softened (or substitute goat cheese)
1 tablespoon (15 mL) chopped fresh chives
6-8 sheets phyllo dough
1.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
2.
In a skillet, melt 2 ounces (56 g) of the butter over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until transparent. Add the Scotch bonnet and callaloo or spinach and sauté until the greens wilt (do not overcook). Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside to cool.
3.
In a bowl, mix together the cream cheese, montrachet, and chives, and set the mixture aside. In a small bowl, melt the remaining butter.
4.
Place a sheet of phyllo dough on a cool pastry board. Brush it lightly with the melted butter. Lay another sheet directly over the first and brush it with butter. Repeat until all the sheets are used. Place the callaloo mixture in the middle of the phyllo dough and top it with the cheese mixture. Fold the edges of dough to form a log. Brush the outside with the melted butter. Place the log on a baking sheet and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until golden brown.
Spicy Chayote Gratin
Yield: 4 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
This gratin dish, with its many variations, is served frequently in Guadeloupe, and it exemplifies the French influence on the island. Since the flavor of the chayote is delicate, I suggest serving this dish hot with grilled fish.
4 medium chayotes (about 1 pound [454 g]), seeds removed
3 slices bacon, chopped
1-2 tablespoons (15-30 mL) olive oil (if needed)
1 cup (236 mL) minced onion
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
6 green onions, chopped
2 Scotch bonnet chiles (or habaneros), stems and seeds removed, minced
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) salt
½ cup (118 mL) coconut milk
2 teaspoons (10 mL) chopped parsley
½ pound (224 g) grated gruyere cheese
¼ cup (59 mL) dry bread crumbs
2 teaspoons (10 mL) butter, softened
1.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
2.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the cleaned chayotes and boil them gently until they are easily pierced with a knife, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove them from the water and allow them to cool.
3.
When the chayotes are cool enough to handle, carefully remove the pulp, mash it, and set it aside. Reserve the skins.
4.
In a large skillet, sauté the bacon for 5 to 7 minutes. Add the onion, garlic, green onions, chiles, and salt and sauté for 1 minute. If there isn’t enough bacon grease, add the olive oil.
5.
Add the coconut milk and the reserved mashed chayote and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the parsley and cheese.
6.
Carefully fill the reserved chayote skins with this mixture. Sprinkle with the bread crumbs and top with the butter. Arrange the stuffed skins in a shallow baking dish and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the tops are browned.
French Caribbean Ratatouille
Yield: 6-8 servings
Heat Scale: Medium-Hot
Even if you eat ratatouille two nights in a row at the same restaurant in the French Caribbean, the second meal may be slightly different from the one you had the night before. It depends on what vegetables are available. This particular recipe is delicious and easy to prepare (especially ahead of time), despite the long list of ingredients. Serve it hot or chilled with spicy grilled fish or meat, and add a salad and some crusty bread, to sop up all those good juices.
¼ pound (113 g) bacon, diced
2-3 tablespoons (30-45 mL) vegetable oil
3 onions, peeled and chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2 bell peppers, stems and seeds removed, sliced
½ pound (224 g) pumpkin, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes
¼ pound (113 g) green papaya, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes
½ pound (224 g) eggplant, peeled and cut into ½-inch (2.5 cm) slices
¼ pound (112 g) peeled and sliced cucumbers
2 Scotch bonnet peppers or habaneros, stems and seeds removed, minced
½ pound (224 g) tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 teaspoon (5 mL) dried thyme (or substitute 2 sprigs fresh thyme)
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) dried rosemary (or substitute 1 sprig fresh rosemary)
2 teaspoons (10 mL) dried basil (or substitute 3 sprigs fresh basil)
2 teaspoons (10 mL) chopped fresh parsley
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1.
In a large, heavy skillet, sauté the bacon. Remove the bacon from the pan, leaving the fat behind. If there isn’t enough fat to sauté the vegetables, add some vegetable oil. Or, you could drain off the fat and substitute vegetable oil.
2.
Add the onions, garlic, and bell peppers to the skillet. Reduce the heat and sauté the mixture for 2 minutes.
3.
Add the pumpkin, papaya, eggplant, cucumber, chiles, tomatoes, thyme, rosemary, and basil. Cover and simmer the mixture slowly for 1½ to 2 hours, until all the flavors have melded. Add the parsley and salt and pepper to taste.
Caribbean Cabbage and Green Peas
Yield: 4 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
The ingredients in this recipe are simple, reflecting the small garden patches that are seen throughout the Caribbean. Most everyone living outside the cities has a vegetable garden; given the climate and good growing conditions, vegetables flourish without much care or tending. If callaloo is not available, substitute fresh spinach.
1 tablespoon (15 mL) olive oil
4 cups (.95 L) coarsely chopped cabbage
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1½ cups (354 mL) chopped callaloo (or substitute fresh spinach)
1 medium tomato, peeled and diced, juice reserved
1 tablespoon (15 mL) minced habanero chile
1½ cups (354 mL) frozen petite peas, or blanched fresh petite peas
2 teaspoons (10 mL) minced fresh basil (or substitute ½ teaspoon [2.5 mL] dried)
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1.
In a large, nonstick skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the cabbage and garlic and sauté for 4 minutes, stirring constantly, until the cabbage starts to wilt.
2.
Add the callaloo, tomato, reserved tomato juice, chile, peas, and basil and sauté for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Cover the skillet, reduce the heat to medium-low, and steam for 2 minutes, until the peas are tender. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Trinidadian Curried Cauliflower, Potatoes, and Peas
Yield: 5 servings
Heat Scale: Mild
This dish can be served hot as a side dish, or it can be chilled and served over fresh greens as a salad. The fresh ginger adds a nice tang to some otherwise ordinary vegetables. Do not use the packaged yellow curry powder; the taste will overpower the vegetables and be too cloying.
1 tablespoon (15 mL) olive oil
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped fresh ginger root
2 teaspoons (10 mL) minced Congo pepper (or substitute habanero)
⅓ cup (79 mL) plus 2-3 tablespoons (30-45 mL) water
⅔ cup (158 mL) tomato purée
½ cup (118 mL) chopped dates or raisins
1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground coriander
1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground cumin
¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) ground turmeric
¼ cup (59 mL) chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon (15 mL) soy sauce
4 cups (.95 L) potatoes cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes
2½ cups (591 mL) cauliflower florets, broken into bite-size pieces
2 cups green peas, fresh or frozen
1.
In a large, nonstick skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, and Congo pepper and sauté, stirring, until the onion begins to stick and turn light brown. Stir in the 2-3 tablespoons (30-45 mL) water and cook, stirring, until the onion softens.
2.
Stir in the tomato purée, dates or raisins, coriander, cumin, turmeric, cilantro, soy sauce, remaining water, and potatoes, reduce the heat to low, and cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes.
3.
Add the cauliflower and toss it with the mixture. Cover and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes or until the potatoes are almost tender. Add the peas and cook for an additional 5 minutes.
Orange-Glazed Fiery Green Beans
Yield: 4 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
These sweet and spicy green beans are an excellent accompaniment for roast pork, beef, lamb, poultry, or fish dishes. (Note: This recipe requires advance preparation.)
4 serrano chiles, stems and seeds removed, cut in thin strips
1 pound (454 g) French-cut green beans
2 tablespoons (30 mL) orange juice
2 teaspoons (10 mL) orange zest or grated orange peel
¼ cup (59 mL) butter
¼ cup (59 mL) light brown sugar
1.
In a bowl, combine the chiles, green beans, orange juice, and orange zest. Allow the mixture to marinate for an hour.
2.
In a sauté pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the sugar and heat until dissolved.
3.
Add the green bean mixture and simmer until the beans are glazed and cooked.
Grilled Spicy Onions
Yield: 6 servings
Heat Scale: Mild
These onions go well with a variety of foods, such as steaks, fajitas, and hamburgers. Marinate the onions overnight and throw them on the grill while cooking the entrée. (Note: This recipe requires advance preparation.)
1 tablespoon (15 mL) ground red New Mexican chile
1 cup (236 mL) olive oil
3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
18-24 large green onions, 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) of the greens included
1.
In a bowl, combine all the ingredients. Marinate for at least 4 hours.
2.
Grill the onions over hot coals until all sides are browned.
Calabacitas con Chile Verde (Squash with Green Chile)
Yield: 6 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
Squash and corn are familiar accompaniments throughout the Southwest. This recipe is particularly good with traditional entrées, such as enchiladas, tamales, and burritos.
1 tablespoon (15 mL) bacon drippings or vegetable oil
1 cup (236 mL) chopped onions
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
4 green New Mexican chiles, roasted, peeled, stems and seeds removed, chopped
2 medium zucchini, sliced
1 cup (236 mL) whole kernel corn
⅓ cup (79 mL) cream or half-and-half
1.
In a skillet, heat the bacon drippings or oil over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and sauté them until softened.
2.
Add the chiles, zucchini, and corn. Simmer for 15 or 20 minutes or until the squash is almost done.
3.
Add the cream, increase the heat until the cream starts to boil, and cook until the vegetables are done and the sauce has thickened.
Chile-Grilled Caponata
Yield: 12 servings
Heat Scale: Mild
This recipe has gone through several incarnations to reach its present delicious state. Chef Rosa Rajkovic suggested the inclusion of dill, basil, oregano, and marjoram to add an herbal punch. In addition, she uses fine-quality balsamic vinegar and fresh lemon juice, which I find work well with the smoky, spicy flavor of the grilled eggplant and onions. Use a vegetable grilling screen so the vegetables don’t fall through the wide spaces on the grill. The caponata can be served any number of ways: on leaves of Bibb lettuce, as an antipasto with toasted baguettes or focaccia bread, or as a sandwich filling on good rolls. (Note: This recipe requires advance preparation.)
2½ pounds (1.13 kg) eggplant, peeled and sliced ¾-inch (1.5 cm) thick
(Japanese or white eggplant preferred)
2 shallots, peeled and sliced ½-inch (1 cm) thick
4 onions, peeled and sliced ½-inch (1 cm) thick
¾ cup (177 mL) Chile Oil (page 16)
1½ pounds (680 g) Italian plum tomatoes
⅔ cup (158 mL) balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons (45 mL) fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons (10 mL) sugar
¾ teaspoon (3.75 mL) dill weed
1½ teaspoons (7.5 mL) dried basil
1 teaspoon (5 mL) dried oregano (Greek or Italian preferred)
1 teaspoon (5 mL) dried marjoram
¾ cup (177 mL) pitted green olives, sliced
½-¾ cup (118-177 mL) olives, pitted and quartered
2 tablespoons (30 mL) capers, drained
3 tablespoons (45 mL) pine nuts
1.
On an outside grill, start a hot fire using a good hardwood, such as oak, pecan, or apple. (Use charcoal only as a last resort.) When the fire is ready, position the rack about 4 to 5 inches (10 to 12.5 cm) from the wood. (If you do not have access to a grill, use the broiler in your oven; just remember that the vegetables will not have the same slightly smoky flavor.)
2.
Brush both sides of the eggplant, shallots, and onion with the chile oil. Grill the eggplant 5 to 6 minutes per side until it is browned and soft inside. Grill the shallots 3 to 4 minutes per side. Grill the onion slices 7 to 8 minutes per side, or until they are slightly charred. Remove the vegetables from the fire and allow them to cool. When the vegetables are cool, chop them coarsely and set them aside.
3.
In a large skillet, heat the remaining chile oil (at least 3 tablespoons [45 mL]) over medium heat. Add the tomatoes. Sauté, stirring frequently, until the liquid from the tomatoes starts to evaporate, about 10 to 15 minutes. Add the balsamic vinegar, lemon juice, sugar, dill weed, basil, oregano, and marjoram. Cover and simmer slowly for 10 minutes, checking to make sure the mixture doesn’t get too dry. (If the mixture starts to dry out, add a little water and remove the mixture from the heat.)