3.
Add breadfruit and the remaining ingredients and stir to blend. Partially cover the skillet and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until the breadfruit is tender.
Breadfruit Oil-Down
Yield: 6 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
This recipe hails from Barbados, although breadfruit is cooked this way on other islands as well. You should be able to find fresh breadfruit at Latin and West Indian markets; if not, buy the canned variety and rinse it before using. The Barbadian (as well as many other islands) method is to cook it in a manner called “oil-down.” This method means the breadfruit has been cooked with coconut milk until all the liquid has been absorbed, leaving a small amount of coconut oil in the pan.
½ pound (224 g) salt pork or smoked ham, cubed
4 cups (.95 L) cold water, divided
1 tablespoon (15 mL) vegetable oil
1 cup (236 mL) chopped onion
1 leek or 5 green onions, white parts only, chopped
1 Scotch bonnet chile, seeds and stem removed, minced (or substitute habanero)
2 sprigs fresh thyme (or substitute 1 teaspoon [5 mL] dried)
4 cups (.95 L) coconut milk
3 pounds (1.36 kg) fresh breadfruit, peeled and cut into 3-inch (7.5 cm) cubes
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1.
In a small saucepan, combine the salt pork and 2 cups (473 mL) of the water. Bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook the meat for 10 minutes. Drain the meat, rinse it, and set it aside.
2.
In a large, heavy skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, leek, chiles, and thyme and sauté for 4 minutes. Pour the coconut milk into the saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil, then lower the heat and add the reserved salt pork and the breadfruit. Simmer the mixture, covered, for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the breadfruit is tender and the milk has been absorbed. There should only be a small amount of coconut oil left in the pan. Add salt and pepper to taste.
West Indies Plantains with Cheese
Yield: 4 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
Plantains can be broiled, boiled, mashed, or fried, and the incredible diversity of this fruit is only limited by your imagination. Joe Brown, a chef in Trinidad, even gave me a recipe for Island Lasagne in which the pasta was sliced plantains! This recipe, with a Continental flair, involves pouring a light cream sauce laced with cheese over the fried plantains. Another, simpler island variation would be to grate some Parmesan cheese over the lightly frying plantains. Try this rich recipe with grilled meat or fish.
2 tablespoons (30 mL) vegetable oil
1 tablespoon (15 mL) butter
3 ripe plantains, peeled and sliced lengthwise into uniform slices
2 tablespoons (30 mL) butter
1 tablespoon (15 mL) minced fresh Scotch bonnet chiles (or substitute habaneros or ½ teaspoon [2.5 mL] ground dried habanero) 2 tablespoons
(30 mL) all-purpose flour
2 cups (473 mL) milk
⅛ teaspoon (.6 mL) freshly grated nutmeg
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) salt
⅛ teaspoon (.6 mL) freshly ground white pepper
¾ cup (177 mL) grated sharp cheddar cheese
1 tablespoon (15 mL) grated Parmesan or romano cheese
1.
Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C).
2.
In a large, heavy skillet, heat the oil and butter over medium heat. In several batches, add the sliced plantains and sauté them until they are golden brown, 1 to 1½ minutes. Do not crowd the plantains in the skillet.
3.
Transfer the sautéed plantains to paper towels to drain.
4.
In a small saucepan, melt the of butter over medium heat. Add the peppers and sprinkle in the flour. Stir the mixture for 30 seconds. Pour in the milk all at once, and stir constantly with a wire whisk until the mixture starts to thicken, 1 or 2 minutes.
5.
Whisk in the nutmeg, salt, white pepper, and cheeses and simmer for 30 seconds or until the cheeses are blended into the mixture. Remove the mixture from the heat.
6.
Arrange the sautéed plantains in a shallow 8-inch (20 cm) square ovenproof dish and pour the sauce evenly over the top of the plantains.
7.
Bake, uncovered, for 20 to 25 minutes and serve hot.
Dried Fruit Curry
Yield: 4 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
This South African recipe shows the influence the East had on African cooking. Many recipes use dried fruits, rice, and spices from the East brought to Africa by the traders. Serve this dish with lamb.
¼ cup (59 mL) chopped dates
¼ cup (59 mL) chopped prunes
½ cup (118 mL) raisins
1 cup (236 mL) chopped dried apples
2 cups (473 mL) water
2 tablespoons (30 mL) vegetable oil
1 cup (236 mL) chopped onion
3 tablespoons (45 mL) Hurry Curry (page 29)
2 tablespoons (30 mL) lemon juice
2 tablespoons (30 mL) red wine vinegar
2 bananas, sliced
¼ cup (59 mL) chopped, salted peanuts
1.
In a small, heavy saucepan, combine the dates, prunes, raisins, apples, and water. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and simmer for 45 minutes. Stir the mixture occasionally to prevent burning.
2.
In a skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté for three minutes, until the onion starts to soften. Add the curry powder, cooked fruit, lemon juice, and vinegar and simmer for 2 minutes for the flavors to blend. If the mixture looks too dry, add a few tablespoons (30-45 mL) of water.
3.
Place the fruit on a small platter, surround it with the bananas, and sprinkle it with the chopped nuts.
Pisang Kari (Malaysian Banana Curry)
Yield: 4-6 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
Malaysia is believed to be the original home of the banana, or pisang, cultivated there for more than 4,000 years. Banana leaves are often used as plates for curry—at the Banana Leaf Apollo Restaurant in Singapore, for example. Do not use ripe bananas in this recipe.
4 large, unripe bananas
1 teaspoon (5 mL) salt
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) ground turmeric
3 tablespoons (45 mL) ghee or vegetable oil
2 cups (473 mL) coconut milk
2 small, fresh, hot green chiles, such as serranos or jalapeño, stems and seeds removed, chopped
2 teaspoons (10 mL) pounded Bombay duck (optional)
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) ground fenugreek
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) crushed fennel seed
1 (1-inch [2.5 cm]) stick cinnamon
3 curry leaves, crushed (or substitute 1 bay leaf)
½ cup (118 mL) minced onion
1.
Peel the bananas, halve them lengthwise, and sprinkle them with the salt and turmeric. In a skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the bananas and sauté for 2 minutes on each side.
2.
In another pan, combine the coconut milk, chiles, Bombay duck (if using), fenugreek, fennel, cinnamon, curry leaves, and onion. Cook over medium heat for 30 minutes, then add the bananas, decrease the heat to low, and cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes.
Pad Thai Spicy Thai Noodles
Yield: 4-6 servings
Heat Scale: Mild
When I was a speaker at the famous Mohonk Mountain House in New Paltz, New York, enjoying a hot and spicy Asian weekend, Gloria Zimmerman was one of the guest chefs, and she prepared her recipe for Pad Thai. Gloria has studied Thai cuisine extensively and is a true master at preparing almost any dish. I thank Gloria for truly tingling my taste buds at the Mohonk.
½ cup (118 mL) vegetable oil
6 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 cup (236 mL) small cooked shrimp
1 tablespoon (15 mL) sugar
3 tablespoons (45 mL) fish sauce
1½ tablespoons (22.5 mL) catsup
2 eggs, beaten
½ pound (224 g) rice vermicelli, soaked in hot water for 15 minutes and drained
1 cup (236 mL) bean sprouts, plus ½ cup (118 mL) for garnish
2 green onions, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) lengths
½ cup (118 mL) bean sprouts
1 tablespoon (15 mL) ground dried shrimp
2 tablespoons (30 mL) roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon (5 mL) dried red chile flakes
2 green onions, chopped
2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped cilantro leaves
2 limes, sliced into ⅛-inch (.25 cm) circles
1.
In a wok, heat the oil over high heat. Add the garlic and sauté until it is golden. Add the shrimp and stir-fry until it is heated through.
2.
Quickly add the sugar, fish sauce, and catsup and stir until the sugar dissolves.
3.
Add the beaten eggs, let them set slightly, then stir to scramble them.
4.
Add the rice vermicelli, toss, and stir for 2 minutes. Toss in 1 cup (236 mL) of the bean sprouts and lengths of green onion, and stir until the sprouts are heated through. Turn the mixture onto a heated platter.
5.
Place the remaining ½ cup (118 mL) bean sprouts along one side of the vermicelli mixture and sprinkle the noodles with the ground dried shrimp, peanuts, chile flakes, chopped green onions, and cilantro, in that order. Ring the platter with the rounds of sliced lime and serve.
Vegetarian Fried Noodles (Sayur Mee Goreng)
Yield: 6 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
Serve this unusual and delicious dish from Malaysia with any Asian curry. The turmeric gives the noodles a lovely yellow hue that contrasts nicely with the red chiles.
2 teaspoons (10 mL) plus ½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) ground cayenne or piquin chiles, divided
1 teaspoon (5 mL) plus ¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) ground turmeric, divided
2 potatoes, peeled, boiled, and chopped into ⅛-inch (.25 cm) cubes
4 tablespoons (60 mL) vegetable oil, divided
1 cup (236 mL) finely sliced onion
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) fish sauce
2 fresh red serrano or jalapeño chiles, stems and seeds removed, sliced into rings
1 tablespoon (15 mL) soy sauce
½ pound (224 g) bean sprouts, washed and drained
4 pieces bean curd, fried and sliced
12 ounces (336 g) egg noodles, cooked and drained
2 eggs, beaten
1.
In a small bowl, mix together 2 teaspoons (2 mL) of the ground chile, 1 teaspoon (5 mL) of the turmeric, and a little water to make a thick paste and set aside.
2.
Mix the chopped potatoes with the remaining ground chile and the turmeric. Set aside.
3.
In a wok or large skillet, heat 3 tablespoons (45 mL) of the oil over high heat. Add the onion and sauté until it is soft. Add the fish paste, reserved chile paste, fresh chiles, and soy sauce and stir-fry for 2 minutes.
4.
Add the reserved potatoes and toss them in the pan for 1 minute. Add the bean sprouts, bean curd slices, and cooked noodles and gently toss until the noodles are coated with the stir-fry mixture.
5.
Make a well in the center of the noodles, add the remaining oil (if necessary), and pour in the beaten eggs. Allow the eggs to cook undisturbed for a few seconds, and when they start to set, mix them in with the noodle mixture, gently tossing and stirring until the eggs are cooked.
FOURTEEN
Sweet Heat and Devilish Desserts
In 1996, Melissa Stock and I published a cookbook entitled
Sweet Heat
. We thought it was on the cutting edge of the hot and spicy movement in the United States, but we were years ahead of our time, and the cookbook tanked. Since then, sweet heat products have dominated the Scovie Awards Competition my company produces, winning two-thirds of the grand prizes over the past decade. These commercial products have included sweet hot sauces, spicy chocolate candies, chile-pistachio brittle (twice!), and a sweet-hot fruit jam. So maybe we predicted a food trend. Melissa assisted in the development and testing of the recipes in this chapter.
Included in my last chapter are tangy temptations such as fiery fruits, cookies caliente, candies of all kinds, mousses, flans, custards, puddings, cakes, pies, tarts, sorbets, and ice creams. It’s not quite a cool-down finale, but it’s certainly a spicy, sweet, and spectacular one!
Habanero-Infused Tropical Fruits with Rum
Yield: 6 servings
Heat Scale: Medium-Hot
This is my favorite combination of tropical fruits, but considering all the options, cooks should feel free to make substitutions based on seasonal availability. Guavas and exotic citrus fruits such as Jamaican ortaniques come to mind as possible additions to this mélange. Add just a little bit of sugar if this is not sweet enough.
1 habanero chile, stem and seeds removed, minced
1 ripe mango, peeled, pitted, and diced
2 ripe bananas, peeled and diced
1 ripe papaya, peeled, seeded, and diced
½ pineapple, peeled, cored, and diced
Juice of 3 limes
¼ cup (59 mL) dark rum
1.
In a bowl, combine all the ingredients and mix well. Marinate in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.
Balsamic Strawbaneros with Minted Chantilly Cream
Yield: 4 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
Forget peaches and cream! Here’s a summer dessert you’ll want to serve over and over again. The tartness of the strawberries works well with the sweet cream and habanero heat.
1 pint (946 g) ripened sweet strawberries, washed, hulled, and quartered
½ cup (118 mL) balsamic vinegar, plus more to taste
½ cup (118 mL) brown sugar, plus more to taste
3 tablespoons (45 mL) freshly chopped mint leaves, divided
¼ fresh habanero chile, minced
½ cup (118 mL) heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons (30 mL) sugar
1.
Put the prepared strawberries in a bowl and refrigerate them. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the balsamic vinegar with the brown sugar. Taste the mixture and add more vinegar or sugar until the balance of sweet and sour is to your liking. Add 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of the chopped mint leaves and the habanero, stir, and pour the mixture over the strawberries. Allow the strawberries to marinate for at least 30 minutes.