1.
In a pot, combine the stock, garlic, carrots, parsley, cumin, oregano, cinnamon, turnips, and potatoes and bring to a boil. Boil, uncovered, for 20 minutes, adding water as needed. Remove and set aside.
2.
In a large skillet, heat the shortening over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the beef and cooked until browned. Add the tomatoes, apple cider, tomato paste, and roux and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
3.
Soak the chipotles in the bourbon for 45 minutes to rehydrate, using a bowl to weigh them down and keep them submerged. In a food processor, combine the chipotles and bourbon with the remaining ingredients and purée. Add this purée to the meat mixture and stir well. Add the meat mixture to the soup, bring to a boil, and mix well. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes before serving. Garnish with the sour cream and green onions.
Rock Shrimp Gumbo with Tabasco and Cayenne
Yield: 6-8 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
Be sure and buy the shrimp in their rock-hard shells because they’ll be fresher tasting. Rock shrimp have more flavor than other shrimp, so it is worth the effort to open the shell. Serve this over some dirty rice with a side of cornbread for a Louisiana treat.
¼ cup (59 mL) olive oil
1½ pound (680 g) okra, stems removed, thinly sliced
¼ pound (113 g) butter
1 large green bell pepper, stem and seeds removed, chopped
1½ medium onions, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons (30 mL) minced garlic
2 tablespoons (30 mL) all-purpose flour
4 cups (.95 L) Classic Chicken Stock (page 46)
3 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) ground white pepper
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) dried thyme
1 teaspoon (5 mL) salt
2 tablespoons (30 mL) tomato paste
2 pounds (1.1 kg) rock shrimp, peeled and deveined
¾ pound (336 g) blue crab meat
1 tablespoon (15 mL) Tabasco sauce
1½ tablespoons (22.5 mL) Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) ground cayenne
1.
In a skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the okra and cook, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes. Set aside.
2.
In a large pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the bell pepper, onion, and garlic and cook until the onions are soft, about 4 minutes. Add the flour and stir until it is integrated. Add the stock and stir briskly with a whisk until everything is well blended. Add the reserved okra, tomatoes, pepper, thyme, salt, tomato paste, rock shrimp, and crab meat and simmer over low heat, covered, for 20 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients, stir well, and cook for 10 more minutes, then serve.
Poor Man’s Lobster Gumbo
Yield: 8-10 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
Monkfish is called “poor man’s lobster” because of its flavor and its inexpensiveness relative to lobster. It is a firm fish that does well in a gumbo such as this, and it is a real bargain to buy. When making the roux, heat the shortening until it smokes a bit, and the resulting roux will be browned.
7 tablespoons (105 mL) vegetable shortening, divided
1 pound (454 g) okra, cut into ½-inch (1 cm) rounds
2 cups (473 mL) chopped tomatoes
2 tablespoons (30 mL) tomato paste
¼ cup (59 mL) all-purpose flour
3 medium onions, peeled and chopped
3 stalks celery, cut into ½ inch (1 cm) pieces
1½ tablespoons (22.5 mL) minced garlic
1 medium red bell pepper, diced
1 medium green bell pepper, diced
4 cups (.95 L) Classic Chicken Stock (page 46)
2 cups (473 mL) Traditional European Fish Stock (page 47)
2½ pounds (680 g) monkfish, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes
1½ tablespoons (22.5 mL) ground cayenne
1½ tablespoons (22.5 mL) Tabasco sauce
Salt, to taste
1.
In a pot melt 4 tablespoons (60 mL) of the shortening over medium heat. Add the okra, tomato, and tomato paste. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes.
2.
In a separate pot, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons (45 mL) shortening over medium heat. Add the flour and cook, stirring well, until a roux forms. Add the onions, celery, garlic, and bell peppers, and remove the pot from the heat for 5 minutes. Add this mixture to the tomato mixture, stir well, and add the remaining ingredients.
3.
Cook, uncovered, over medium heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding water as needed if the gumbo is too thick.
Wild Mushroom and Vegetable Gumbo with Jalapeños
Yield: 8-10 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
This gumbo is unusual because it is vegetarian, but the flavors of the mushrooms and vegetables are so intense that no one will miss the seafood or sausage. Use your choice of three separate garnishes for this gumbo.
4 tablespoons (60 mL) vegetable shortening
4 tablespoons (60 mL) all-purpose flour
4 cups (.95 L) Super-Rich Vegetable Stock (page 48)
2 tablespoons (30 mL) butter
½ pound (224 g) morels, chopped
½ pound (224 g) chanterelles, chopped
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
Kernels from 3 ears of corn
3 medium yellow tomatoes, chopped
3 medium red tomatoes, chopped
1 cup (236 mL) freshly shelled peas
1 medium red bell pepper, chopped
1 medium green bell pepper, chopped
2 jalapeños, stems and seeds removed, minced
1 tablespoon (15 mL) minced garlic
Salsa for garnish
Strips of lemon rind for garnish
Carmelized red onions for garnish
1.
In a large pot, melt the shortening over medium heat. Whisk in the flour. Add the vegetable stock, whisk well, and cook, uncovered, at a very low simmer.
2.
In a separate pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and onion and sauté for 3 minutes. Add the corn, tomatoes, peas, bell peppers, jalapeños, and garlic and cook over low heat, uncovered, for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Add the stock and cook, covered, over low heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. If the gumbo is too thick, add water as needed . Garnish with your favorite salsa, strips of lemon rind, or some caramelized red onions.
EIGHT
Molten Meaty Main Dishes
This chapter is heaven for all chilehead carnivores! It focuses on beef, pork, and lamb dishes with chiles, but occasionally some kind of game hops into the picture. I have organized the recipes regionally from west to east, the same route that chile peppers traveled after their “discovery” by Columbus and his men in the Bahamas.
Rocotos Rellenos (Stuffed Rocoto Chiles)
Yield: 20 stuffed chiles
Heat Scale: Hot
Rocoto chiles grow very large in Peru, almost as large as bell peppers, so they are easy to stuff. The heat factor in this dish can be very high, but the other ingredients will temper it somewhat. Serve these with hot slices of fresh corn on the cob and rounds of sweet potatoes.
20 red rocoto chiles (or substitute the largest jalapeños available)
1 pound (454 g) ground pork
3 cups (708 mL) water
2 tablespoons (30 mL) vegetable oil
2 onions, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 cup (236 mL) peanuts, toasted and ground
1 pound (454 g) cooked green peas
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) salt
¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) freshly ground black pepper
2 hardboiled eggs, diced
4 eggs, separated
Vegetable oil for frying
1.
Wash the chiles and, leaving the stems intact, cut them half open, and carefully remove the seeds. Place the peppers in a large pot with water to cover, and bring to a low boil. Boil the chiles for 3 minutes. Drain them carefully, keeping them intact, and set them aside.
2.
Put the pork in a medium saucepan, add the 3 cups of water, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 hour or until the pork is tender. Drain the pork and reserve the cooking liquid. With a meat grinder on a coarse setting, grind the pork. Set it aside.
3.
In a medium skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and sauté until soft. Add the ground pork, peanuts, peas, salt, pepper, and enough of the reserved pork stock to keep the mixture moist. Mix in the chopped eggs. Remove the pot from the heat and let the mixture cool for a few minutes.
4.
Stuff the chiles with this mixture and close them as tightly as possible.
5.
Beat the egg whites until they are quite stiff. Beat the yolks well and fold them into the whites.
6.
In a separate skillet, heat the oil over high heat. Dip each pepper into the egg mixture and deep fry for 30 to 60 seconds, until the outside is golden brown.
Cara Pulcra (Pork with Dried Potatoes)
Yield: 5-6 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
This simple, spicy, and exotic Peruvian pork main dish probably dates back to ancient Incan times, with the Incan penchant for drying and freeze-drying food. Papa seca is available in Latin American markets; it is dried, ground potatoes. If you cannot find papa seca, it is easy to prepare your own. Clean 2 pounds (1.1 kg) small potatoes and boil them in their skins until they are done. Peel the potatoes, slice them, put them on a raised screen, and dry them in the sun, turning often (or use a food dehydrator). When they are thoroughly dry, grind them in a spice mill and store them in a jar to use as needed. (Note: This recipe requires advance preparation.)
1 pound (454 g) papa seca
4 tablespoons (60 mL) olive oil
1 cup (236 mL) finely chopped onion
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
2 pounds (1.1 kg) boneless pork, cut into ½-inch (1 cm) cubes
½ cup (118 mL) ground peanuts
¼ cup (59 mL) grated aji chiles (or substitute yellow wax hot or jalapeño)
¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) cumin
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) salt
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) annatto seeds
¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) freshly ground black pepper
1-2 cups (250-473 mL) chicken stock
1.
Roast the papa seca in a large, dry skillet over medium-high heat, taking care not to burn it. Transfer the roasted papa seca to a large bowl, add water to cover, and refrigerate overnight. Transfer the papa seca to a colander and drain thoroughly, pressing down on the mixture.
2.
In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and the garlic and sauté briefly. Add the cubed pork and brown it; then add the remaining ingredients and the drained papa seca and simmer for 45 to 60 minutes, stirring occasionally, adding more stock or water if the mixture seems too thick.
Chicharrones con Camotes (Pork Ribs and Sweet Potatoes)
Yield: 4 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
This easy, tasty recipe comes from
Creole Cookery
by Na Conce, published in Peru in 1951 and now quite rare. This cookbook is the repository of some classic household recipes that were prepared by the lady of the house or her cook. The recipes are simple and use basic ingredients available in the area and at that time. The word “chicharrón” refers both to fried pork skins and fried ribs.
4 sweet potatoes, scrubbed
2 pounds (1.1 kg) pork ribs, cut into individual ribs
¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) salt
¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) freshly ground black pepper
1 cup (236 mL) cold water
1 clove garlic, peeled and mashed
1 large onion, peeled and thinly sliced
1 cup (236 mL) boiling water
2 fresh aji chiles, stems and seeds removed, puréed in a blender (or substitute yellow wax hot or jalapeño)
Juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon (5 mL) vinegar
Melted butter
1.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
2.
Place the sweet potatoes in the oven and bake until they are easily pierced with a fork, about 1 hour.
3.
Wash the ribs and pat them dry. Sprinkle them with the salt and pepper.
4.
Pour the cold water into a large, heavy skillet. Add the ribs and the garlic and bring the mixture to a low boil. Boil the ribs until the water has evaporated and the ribs start to fry in their own fat. Stir the ribs to make sure they don’t burn, and keep frying until they start to crisp up.
5.
Place the onion slices in a colander and pour the hot water over them. Let stand for 5 minutes, then transfer the onion slices to a ceramic bowl. Add the puréed chile peppers, lemon juice, and vinegar. Allow the mixture to marinate for 15 minutes.
6.
Push the ribs to one side of the skillet, add the onions, and bring the mixture to a quick boil. Serve immediately, accompanied by slices of hot baked sweet potatoes drizzled with melted butter.
Chancho Picante (Spicy Pork with an Asian Touch)
Yield: 4 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
The Spanish conquistadors brought pigs to Peru, and the Indians soon incorporated pork into their cuisine. This pork dish in a hot sauce spiced with green onion, peanuts, ginger, and soy sauce also shows the influence Asian immigrants have had on local foods. Serve this dish with white rice or one of the spicier rice dishes from South America.
1½ pounds (680 g) pork shoulder
2 tablespoons (30 mL) soy sauce, divided
1½ tablespoons (22.5 mL) cornstarch, dissolved in ¼ cup (59 mL) cold water
2 teaspoons (10 mL) sugar, divided
4 dried aji chiles (or substitute New Mexican or pasilla), soaked in water
until soft
1 tablespoon (15 mL) white vinegar
2 tablespoons (30 mL) grated fresh ginger
3 tablespoons (45 mL) water
¼ cup (59 mL) peanut oil
½ cup (118 mL) peanuts, chopped
1.
Cut the pork into thin strips and place them in a large bowl. Add 1 tablespoon (15 mL) of the soy sauce, ⅔ of the cornstarch mixture, and 1 teaspoon (5 mL) of the sugar and stir well to coat the meat. Set aside for 15 minutes.
2.
Remove the stems and seeds from the chiles and purée them in a blender with 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of their soaking water. In a small bowl, combine the remaining soy sauce, sugar, and cornstarch. Add the vinegar, ginger, and water.