A Family Guide To Keeping Chickens (42 page)

BOOK: A Family Guide To Keeping Chickens
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Stress

Stress can be caused in a number of ways: a change in routine, bullying by other hens, over-heating and so on (see
Chapter 11
).

Parasites and disease

Shell quality may be affected by parasites or disease but there will usually be other symptoms.

Exposure to infectious bronchitis can cause damage to the reproductive system and the hen will only lay soft-shelled or wrinkled eggs. There is nothing that can be done about this, although the hen should be culled as she is likely to be a carrier of the disease.

Misshapen eggs

Sometimes eggs have an extra band of shell around the middle or a dusting of powdery calcium. There have even been cases where a whole egg is encased in another shell!

Often the result of stress or shock, these eggs are more likely to be produced by pullets or old hens. There is usually nothing to worry about, unless the condition persists. Try to keep the flock as free from stress as possible.

Perfect eggs!

Blood on the shell

There may be a smear of blood on an eggshell, especially when a young hen is starting to lay or if the egg is particularly large. Keep an eye on the hen but unless there is a lot of blood, or blood around the vent, there won’t usually be a problem.

Small red dots on the shells can indicate red mite.

Meat spots and blood spots

These are seldom seen in shop-bought eggs as they are routinely scanned before packing.

Blood spots may occur at the edge of the yolk, while a small brown speck in the white is known as a meat spot. They are produced when the yolk breaks away from the ovary and are harmless, although they don’t look very appetizing.

Meat or blood spots may be a result of age and are often caused by shock. Some hens regularly produce eggs with these imperfections, which may be an inherited trait, so it would be best not to breed from them.

Where Are the Eggs?

Maybe you’re not getting any eggs at all. Could something be wrong?

It might be, but then again all could be well. There are several reasons for a lack of eggs:


Time of year: many pure-breeds stop laying over the winter and the pullets may not start until the spring, depending on how early in the year they were hatched.


Age of hen: pullets mature at different ages depending on their breed. Old hens will eventually stop laying – hybrids often stop earlier than pure-breeds.


Moulting: hens don’t lay eggs during the moult and re-feathering (see
Chapter 11
).


Diet and water: incorrect feeding (too many treats) can result in fewer eggs. Lack of water may cause egg production to cease for several days.


Broodiness: broody hens don’t lay eggs.


Parasites: an infestation will debilitate the hens – laying will slow down or stop.


Disease: hens will stop laying if they are ill but there will usually be other symptoms too.


Laying outside: free-range hens may make nests under bushes, in clumps of nettles or some other unsuitable spot.


Egg eating: sometimes hens eat their own eggs (see next section) but you will probably notice shell fragments.


Rats and other predators: rats will take eggs and can cleverly roll them away. Birds such as crows and magpies will steal eggs. Grey squirrels, weasels and stoats enjoy eggs and may take chickens too (see
Chapter 9
).

Hens can lay eggs in surprising places!

Egg eating

Chickens don’t realize how delicious their eggs are – and it’s best to keep it this way. Egg eating is a difficult habit to break. Collecting eggs regularly removes temptation. If thin shells are leading to broken eggs in the nest-box, try to identify the reason and improve matters.

Nutritional deficiencies and lack of water can encourage hens to investigate their eggs, especially in the summer months.

If you have an egg-eater, putting pot eggs (imitation eggs) or golf balls in the nest-boxes may make her decide that eggs aren’t always tasty. Replacing the contents of an egg with something unpleasant tasting has variable results, but adding some vegetable dye may help identify the culprit.

Nest-boxes should be in the darkest part of the house – make sure there are enough for all the laying hens. Pinning black plastic strips along the top of the nest-boxes keeps eggs away from greedy eyes. There are also ‘rollaway’ nest-boxes, where the eggs roll into a collection tray out of reach of the hens.

Knowing if a hen is ready to lay

A firm red comb is often the most obvious sign. The hen may also start ‘talking’ – making soft clucking sounds.

Not all breeds have visible combs so a more accurate method is to check the width of the pelvic bones. These can be felt either side of the vent and will be close together if the hen isn’t laying. When she is ready to start they will be about two fingers apart and will widen to around three fingers (5 cm) as laying increases.

A firm red comb is a sign that a hen is ready to lay . . .

. . . you could also check the pelvic bones

Eggs-Travaganza! Dealing With All the Eggs

Your patience has been rewarded – that first egg could hardly be more precious if it was made of solid gold. You may be wondering whether to eat it or frame it!

There’s a kind of wonder in collecting freshly laid eggs every day, but when your hens get into their stride the wonder may turn to panic as the fridge fills with egg boxes at an alarming rate.

BOOK: A Family Guide To Keeping Chickens
12.26Mb size Format: txt, pdf, ePub
ads

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