Amazing Tales for Making Men Out of Boys (19 page)

BOOK: Amazing Tales for Making Men Out of Boys
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To say that Britain was alarmed by all of this is a gross understatement. Convinced that Russia would shortly attempt to make inroads on the fabulous imperial jewel that was India, British agents began to make their first moves in what became known as the Great Game. Historians are generally agreed that it was fueled primarily by British paranoia and Russo-phobia—that the Russians at the time were unaware that any “game” was even being played, far less that they were one of the two players. But it is undeniable that each empire began to play closer and closer attention to the moves and supposed objectives of the other.

The central playing field of the game was Afghanistan. Britain was obsessed by the possibility that Russia might take control of the country and use it as a lofty staging post for moves into India itself. Josiah Harlan therefore—with his own dreams of empire—had stumbled unwittingly into a drama the scale of which he could hardly have imagined. And yet—and here is an important trait of men like Harlan and of manly men in general—even if someone had sat him down and described the global forces at work, he would have been unfazed. There are those (indeed, most of us) who believe we are only pawns, tiny cogs in a machine driven by engines of impossible power; those people play their insignificant part and keep their heads down. And then there are the few, like Josiah Harlan, who consider that it is individuals, and not great empires, that dictate both their own destinies and those of the nations around them. Josiah Harlan was of the sort of manly men who do whatever they want, and damn the consequences; who find the world around them unacceptable and so set out to shape it in their own image.

Taking his leave of Dost Mohammed, Harlan crossed into the Punjab in 1829, arriving in the city of Lahore and swiftly seeking out one of Ranjit’s mercenaries. He was Frenchman Jean Francois Allard, the pre-eminent member of the small cadre of foreigners who had modernized the Sikh army along the lines of contemporary European forces. The maharajah himself, Harlan soon discovered, was a man of insatiable appetites, and with the wealth and power to indulge them all. He expected his guests to behave likewise, but pragmatic Harlan merely turned a blind (Quaker) eye to his would-be employer’s excesses while managing to avoid much if any active participation. He soon proved his worth to Ranjit Singh and by 1832 had been installed as Governor of the large and rich province of Gujrat. He served his employer—and himself—very well in his new role. In addition to the governance of his own province, he continued to advise the maharajah on wider issues.

When trouble flared between the Sikhs and Dost Mohammed Khan over control of the disputed Peshawar region, Harlan showed himself to be an arch manipulator and diplomat. The Afghans were wrong-footed and forced to withdraw, back to their mountain fastnesses—and yet Dost Mohammed seemingly found it in his heart to be impressed by the machinations of his former guest. When Harlan finally argued with Ranjit, over allegations that the American was profiting from the stamping of counterfeit coinage, it was to Kabul that he fled to lick his wounds and make new plans. Dost Mohammed, who knew a good thing when he saw it, welcomed him back with open arms.

Harlan’s dreams of glory finally came within his grasp in 1838 when Dost Mohammed allowed him to march at the head of an Afghan army against a neighboring warlord and slave trader named Murad Beg. As a Quaker, Harlan was deeply opposed to the mere notion of slavery—and this alone would have served as his motive for going to war on Dost Mohammed’s behalf. But he was also
proud of the fighting prowess of “his” Afghans and determined to prove that such a force could cross the Hindu Kush. This supposedly impenetrable waste of glaciers and mountains had been seen as a permanent barrier since the time of Alexander. Harlan believed great riches and power could be amassed by an army—and a leader—able to complete the journey intact.

Not only was the American able to prove his point about his army’s mobility—and crush the threat from Murad Beg—he also found time, high in the mountains of western Afghanistan, to celebrate his rise to leader of men. As his army crested the Koh-i-Baba mountain range of the Hindu Kush, he ordered a full review of his troops—and a flag-raising ceremony the like of which may never be seen again:

“I surmounted the Indian Caucasus, and there upon the mountain heights, unfurled my country’s banner to the breeze, under a salute of twenty-six guns,” he wrote. “On the highest pass of the frosty Caucasus, that of Kharzar, the star-spangled banner gracefully waved amidst the icy peaks and soilless, rugged rocks of a sterile region, seemingly sacred to the solitude of an undisturbed eternity.”

There is an old joke that says when God was almost finished creating the Earth he found he had an enormous pile of rocks left over. From these, he made Afghanistan. Yet for Josiah Harlan it was a land that offered him all he needed or wanted. He noted the “soilless, rugged rocks” and yet the admitted sterility of the place made no difference to him. In his own mind, within his sense of himself, he had brought everything required of a king. Barren rocks they may have been, but for Harlan they served as firm foundations for the greatness he believed had been his all along.

It was that same campaign that gifted him the opportunity to have himself elevated to the status of royalty. En route to successfully tackling the slave trader, Harlan encountered men of the Hazara clan of Ghor, a western province of Afghanistan, led by their chief
Mohammed Reffee Beg. The Hazaras were so impressed by the discipline of Harlan’s troops, and by the power of his heavy artillery, they promptly made the American an extraordinary offer. Would he accept the title of Prince of Ghor, and lead the Hazaras to greatness?

For Josiah Harlan, it was the step he had longed to take. As Prince of the Hazaras he could build an empire, here in the mountains of western Afghanistan. In time, he thought, he would stand shoulder to shoulder with any other emperor—and be greeted by them as brother and equal. The title of Prince of Ghor was a hereditary one, meaning it would pass in due course to Harlan’s heirs, for all time. A contract was duly prepared, signed by both parties, and exists to this day.

As a fiction, “The Man Who Would Be King” requires a considerable suspension of disbelief, but the truth of Josiah Harlan is stranger and more impressive yet. Rejected by a woman on the other side of the world, he had set out into an unknown future armed only with books about botany, history and medicine. He had no medical training yet passed himself off as a surgeon; he had no military training and precious little experience of fighting of any kind and yet became a warlord; he was an American citizen from Pennsylvania and yet was made Prince of Ghor. This, then, was the world as it was, not so very long ago—and the kind of men who once strode upon it.

But by the time the new prince was making his way back to Kabul, in April 1839, to celebrate his many triumphs, the wider world had changed once more. Britain had made a decisive move in its Great Game. Convinced that the Afghanistan of Dost Mohammed Khan was growing politically close to Russia, the British Army of the Indus had been dispatched to replace him. The more docile Shujah Shah Durrani, who’d spent most of the last 30 years as a guest of the British at Ludhiana, was soon paraded in triumph
through the streets of Kandahar. But while the British liked to think the Kandaharis were delighted by the return of the exile, in truth his day was long past. His presence was more likely to light the match of violence than it was to bring peace and reconciliation.

The juggernaut rumbled inexorably toward Kabul, flattening the once impregnable walls of Ghazni along the way. With the infidels less than 100 miles from his capital, Dost Mohammed sent emissaries to find a way in which he might cling to power. He offered to surrender the throne to Shujah in return for being appointed as his vizier. But Shujah, drunk on the heady fumes of a kingdom regained, would settle for nothing less than exile for his erstwhile usurper.

Harlan might have fled, or gone over to the side of the British. All had changed however, for the man from Pennsylvania. Unlike the British, who chose to ride roughshod over anything unfamiliar in their path, Harlan had learned to value and to love the people of his latest adoptive home. After all, he was now a prince of Afghanistan in his own right. He chose instead to stand at the shoulder of the Amir whose overthrow he had once plotted, and in defiance of the man who had first employed him to do so.

With the Prince of Ghor beside him, Dost Mohammed made a last attempt to rally his forces:

“You have eaten my salt these 13 years,” he cried out to the troops who were now seeking to melt away before his eyes. “Grant me but one favor in requital of that long period of maintenance and kindness—enable me to die with honor…one last charge against the cavalry of these
Feringhee
dogs; in that onset I will fall; then go and make your own terms with Shah Shujah!”

It was to no avail. The remnants of his army deserted him and Kabul fell. Dost Mohammed and a handful of followers fled the city on horseback, heading for the north and the Hindu Kush.
Harlan stayed behind for a while, but was soon so disgusted and shamed by the conduct of the British and their puppet king Shujah that he too left for air less tainted by ignorance and heathen folly.

The occupation of Kabul by the Army of the Indus was briefly self-satisfied—but ignorance and bad planning meant it was never really secure and always ultimately doomed. While officers paraded through the streets and palaces in all their finery, making free with the Afghan women and anything else that caught their eyes, righteous vengeance made its dark plans. The maintenance of open supply lines back to British India depended upon cash bribes to the Ghilzyes tribes who controlled the treacherous mountain passes back to Jalalabad. Crucially, these same Ghilzyes loathed Shujah almost as much as they loathed the British that had forced him upon them. When the British halved the payments as part of an ill-conceived cost-cutting exercise, the chieftains promptly shut the passes. The army of occupation was cut off from the world it knew and could control…and the stage was set for tragedy.

Having taken leave of Afghanistan Harlan headed not for home, but for Russia. He was briefly a hit with high society there—and may even have tried to interest the Tsar’s government in his route through the Hindu Kush—but soon the call of the land of his birth became too strong to resist. He was back home by 1841—and from the far side of the Atlantic could read in the newspapers about what would soon unfold in Afghanistan. By the end of that year the British forces in Kabul—4,500 fighting men and more than 12,000 wives, children and other camp followers—finally lost control of the city and the country. The mob had taken and killed the senior commanders before a wholesale withdrawal was underway. The retreat from Kabul was a horror of biblical proportions. In the teeth of winter, the straggling column attempted to march the 90 miles through frozen, treacherous passes toward the sanctuary of British Jalalabad. Afghan chiefs who had promised safe conduct
now unleashed their warriors upon the soldiers, women and children. A single survivor—assistant army surgeon Dr. William Brydon—arrived in Jalalabad on January 13 to tell the awful tale.

Josiah Harlan, of course, might have been able to warn them in time. Indeed, if his value to the occupying force had been identified and understood, it could all have been so different. But his knowledge and experience of the places and their peoples—amassed during 18 years in which he had learned not to judge but to understand—was cast aside by the British along with so much else. Soon they would return, crushing the rebellion and trampling into the dust any hope of real and lasting peace. Dost Mohammed returned to his throne in Kabul and would be a faithful ally of Britain and the Company in years to come. But the future of relations between Afghanistan and the West was already set. The chance of love and understanding had come and gone.

Back home in America, the Prince of Ghor still had fire in his blood. At the outbreak of the Civil War, he volunteered to raise a regiment of Union soldiers. His hatred of slavery was a strong as ever—but the old warlord’s ways would prove an uncomfortable fit with the modern army of the North. He duly raised his regiment and was effortlessly popular with the rank and file. His ambitious young officers, however, found they could not tolerate the ways of a hoary old soldier who had learned his techniques of command and discipline among the pitiless mountains of the Hindu Kush. Their hysterical complaints eventually brought about a court martial, and although Colonel Harlan was eventually exonerated and cleared of any fault, his military career was over.

He dreamed then of traveling once more—perhaps back to Afghanistan to reclaim his princedom; perhaps to China to tutor the Emperor in the ways of war. It was in 1871, while living in San Francisco and still making plans to return to the East, that time finally caught up with the Prince of Ghor. A hard life well lived
had taken its toll and he was suffering from tuberculosis when he collapsed in the street one day while out and about his business.

There were no mourners at the funeral of the man who would be king, no tears shed. Only in the still frozen mountains of the Hindu Kush, carried on the wind and in the howling of the wild dogs that roam there still, is his name heard any more.

Leaders are hardly immune to personal disaster. Scott would have understood from childhood that the sort of men who set out to change the world were at the greatest risk of being destroyed by it. He would also have known that even the most careful and rigorous preparations could never be enough to cope with every eventuality. Another vital lesson to be learned from the life and death of a man like Josiah Harlan is that all human endeavor depends, at least in part, upon luck.

Josiah was an adventurer and a rogue. He was highly intelligent and self-taught with a natural genius for strategy, planning and diplomacy. He was a talented and insightful student of human nature and adept at winning others round to his point of view. But in addition to all these abilities, he knew how to ride his luck; when to hold the cards and when to put them down and walk away from the table.

On January 3, 1902, as the
Discovery
crossed the Antarctic Circle, it still remained to be seen whether or not Scott was a lucky man. From Lady Newnes Bay he went ashore and headed inland, accompanied by Dr. Wilson and Lieutenant Royds. Eager to take advantage of any available high ground for a better look at the surrounding terrain, they scrambled up the slopes of the closest of the volcanic peaks. From an unnamed summit they took in their first view of the Great
Ice Barrier, its awe-inspiring mass striding away from them as far the eye could see.

Back aboard ship, they set a course alongside the great white cliffs of ice towering 200 to 300 feet above their heads. They steamed along the Barrier’s length for days, marveling at the very existence of an “eighth wonder of the world.” While they watched from the deck, icebergs ten miles or more in length and weighing millions of tons were “calved” from the great mass of it and began their silent journeys toward the north.

You have to keep reminding yourself that these men came from a world and a time when hardly a soul before them had dared venture so far south. There had been no television documentaries, and precious few photographs, to forewarn them of them of the sights they would see. What they were looking out at was a world so new and fresh the frost of the dawn of the making of the world was still untouched upon it.

By the end of the month, Scott and his crew were in virgin territory, viewing and mapping parts of the Antarctic coastline never before seen by man. They called the new domain King Edward VII Land, and on February 2 they finally reached an inlet that breached the Barrier and allowed them to steam toward the interior of the continent. They went ashore again at the first opportunity and on February 4 Scott made an ascent in a tethered balloon, rising to a height of 800 feet and gazing out toward the Great Ice Barrier and the mountains, glaciers and ice fields beyond. Next up in the Heath Robinson contraption was one Ernest Shackleton, a Merchant Navy man Scott had appointed as third lieutenant in charge of holds, stores, provisions and deep-sea analysis.

Having seen the eastern end of the Barrier, Scott decided they should stop their eastward advance and head back to McMurdo Sound, where they planned to make their permanent camp. On February 8 the
Discovery
dropped anchor in the sheltered waters of
a bay toward the southern end of a peninsula jutting out from the foot of Mount Erebus. Here, with the summit of the volcano towering more than 13,000 feet above them, they erected a prefabricated hut they had brought with them. Forever after, polar explorers would refer to the place as Hut Point. There were separate huts too for the scientists’ lab work, and also kennels for the huskies.

If all seemed well enough to begin with, it wasn’t long before Antarctica demonstrated its capacity to harm the inexperienced and the unwary. In early March a dog-sled party went out under the leadership of Royds—a chance to practice their techniques on the ice and snow as much as anything else. It should have been commanded by Scott but he had injured his knee some days earlier and was not yet back to full fitness. Some of the men wore reindeer-fur boots that provided little in the way of grip on the ice, and when a blizzard descended upon them they soon learned how vulnerable they were. As they stumbled blindly through the whiteout, three of them lost their footing and slipped helplessly down a steep, ice-covered slope to within inches of a sheer cliff edge. Able Seaman George Vince was not so lucky and, along with one of the dogs, shot past the rest of the men and out into the abyss. It was a 200-foot drop into the sea below and he was never seen again.

As they struggled to come to terms with what had just happened—and how quickly—they realized another of the party, an 18-year-old steward called Hare, was nowhere to be seen. The survivors struggled back to Hut Point—numb with cold and the horror of what had befallen their experimental expedition. Miraculously, young Hare walked back into the camp two days later, having somehow survived two nights in the open. By his own account, he had simply lain down and fallen asleep. Good luck dictated that the conditions created by the incessant snowfall somehow insulated him against the worst of the storm raging around him. After a day and a half spent dozing peacefully, he simply stood up and walked back to base.

Soon after Lieutenant Royds’s near disaster, Scott called a halt to any further trips and the party settled down for “winter routine.” By now the sun was no longer rising above the horizon at any point during the day and the men spent the hours cleaning the huts, collecting ice for drinking water, maintaining the equipment and generally passing the time as constructively as possible. Through it all, the captain insisted that standards were maintained. On Sundays the officers and men put on the best of their available clothing and attended a church service conducted by Scott, reading from the Book of Common Prayer.

As the weeks and months of darkness slipped by, preparations were made for the sled trips that would justify the expedition as a scientific exercise as well as a voyage of discovery. Increasing familiarity with the ways of the sled dogs caused great anxiety for the men—and in particular for Scott, who had been deeply sensitive to the welfare of animals all his life. For a polite English gentleman, raised to see dogs as lovable pets, the savage politics of the pack were heartbreaking for him to witness. It seemed that if any of the dogs received the slightest show of affection from one of the men—a pat on the head, a casual stroke of the coat—the rest would turn on it at the first opportunity and dole out summary justice. Furthermore, the dogs they had brought were not the best for sledding and generally refused to pull any loads at all unless the men walked in front of them, coaxing them all the way. Scott would eventually form the opinion that dogs were not the answer to the problem of crossing the Antarctic.

On November 2 Scott, Shackleton and Wilson embarked upon a journey south that was supposed to be a dry run for any future attempt on the Pole itself. For the first couple of weeks they were accompanied by a support party, but conditions deteriorated and by the middle of month, the trio was left alone on the ice. The rest of the men returned to camp, dropping dumps of food and fuel supplies
along the way for collection and use by the others as they made their painful way back. The dogs were as miserable and disappointing as ever, and had to be destroyed one by one. Reduced to man-hauling the huge weight of their sled, the three men suffered terribly. For part of the remainder of the trip Wilson was snow-blind—but it was Shackleton, youngest of the three at 28, who was most badly affected by the conditions.

It is worth bearing in mind the kind of clothes the men were wearing for their journeys across one of the harshest environments on Earth. Not for them the protection of modern textiles, or Gore-Tex or any of the other developments in weatherproofing that most of us take for granted. Scott and the rest of the British men of the heroic age of exploration wore a few layers of woolen undergarments and sweaters topped by close-weave outer garments of cotton or plaid. On their feet they wore leather boots with tacks in the soles for grip, and on their heads woolen balaclavas. I wear more than that to take my kids to the park in October. None of it had been tested for the conditions—and they didn’t really know how bad conditions could get in any case. It was all about being tough—each man testing himself and desperate that he would not be found wanting.

In spite of it all, Scott, Wilson and Shackleton managed to cross the 82nd parallel and made a final camp at 82 degrees 16' 33", by 300 miles the furthest south that any human beings had ever traveled. They were, however, still 420 miles from the Pole, and turned for home on New Year’s Day 1903. Shackleton was severely weakened and with every passing day his condition worsened. His breathing was labored, he coughed blood and his gums darkened—a classic symptom of scurvy. Pulling the sled was beyond him now and he could do no more than stumble alongside it as Wilson and Scott shared the work of three between them—a load of around 250 pounds per man. Eventually, too weak even to walk, Shackleton had to add his own weight to the sled by sitting on it, dejectedly tending
a makeshift sail he had erected in hope of easing the burden he had become to his comrades.

By the time they made it back to Hut Point, on February 3, the experience had taken its toll on the personal and working relationship between Scott and Shackleton, as well as upon the health and well-being of all three. They had nonetheless achieved a major first in the story of polar exploration: they had covered a distance of 960 miles in 93 days and had shown some of what would have to be done to reach the South Pole.

Within days of their return, word reached Hut Point that a support vessel named the
Morning
was just a dozen miles or so away from them across the ice blocking McMurdo Sound. It had been sent jointly by the Royal Society and the RGS—the Presidents of both bodies having convinced themselves that an orderly withdrawal from the south was now the best course of action. Scott was to take command of both ships and return to New Zealand with his whole team at the first opportunity. Irked by the suggestion that he should abandon his expedition, Scott was relieved to see that the
Discovery
was completely ice-bound and unlikely to be able to move for months to come. Instead he decided the
Morning
should depart before it too became trapped—taking with it those team members who had had enough. He added Shackleton’s name to the list of those who would be leaving. And with that stroke of the pen, one of the great rivalries in the Heroic Era of Polar Exploration was born.

 
BOOK: Amazing Tales for Making Men Out of Boys
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