B003YL4KS0 EBOK (20 page)
Authors: Lorraine Massey,Michele Bender
Many products claim to be “natural,” “organic,” “herbal,” or full of “botanical ingredients”—even those you buy at well-known stores. But what do those words really mean as applied to beauty products? Not very much. The claims are not regulated, so any company can add those words to their labels and many of them do, touting their organic or natural status to make you think you’re “going green.” (It’s called “greenwashing.”)
The only way to know if a product is organic is if you see the USDA Organic seal, which means that 95 percent of the ingredients in the product are organic. If the product says “Made with certified organic ingredients,” this means 70 to 95 percent of its ingredients are organic. In some cases, it also means it should be in the refrigerator. Yet, just because a product says that it’s natural or organic doesn’t mean it’s good for your curly hair! Again, check the ingredients list on the bottle against the lists on pages 79–80 and make sure it doesn’t contain any of the ingredients we say you should avoid.
CURL CONFESSIONJulie Weiss
art director,
Vanity FairThe secret—and most essential—ingredient for our hair’s health and happiness is the simplest thing in the world: water. It’s a natural tonic. Just like in the garden, where plants need water to come alive and grow, so does our curly hair. Whenever I feel that my hair is wilting or losing its shine, I wet it and it immediately comes back to life. The curls form again and look alive. It’s similar to how tired, wilted lettuce will come back to life when placed in a bowl of cool water.
Thinking about how water affects our hair, I am reminded of how I loved to water gardens when I was a little girl. Whenever our family would go to friends or relatives’ houses with a garden, I would always ask if I could water it. I didn’t care if it was just a few plants in front of an apartment building, I loved the feeling of helping these plants come to life. Immediately, their colors were brighter, the greens looked greener, and the soil looked deep and rich instead of dry. I found it so relaxing and meditative. Everyone knows that water can be healing for people and for plants, flowers, and trees. It can also do the same for our curly hair.
The only way to be totally sure that a product includes ingredients that are good for your curls is to make your own. This is something I love to do. On weekends with friends, we experiment and concoct new lotions ’n’ potions. The following are our tried-and-true tested favorites:
This calming protein pack will soften your hair and create beautiful curls while soothing your spirit. The amount of water you use to make the protein rinse varies depending on the length and thickness of your hair: Use 1 cup water for short, thinner hair, or 2 cups water for long, thick hair. Powdered egg, jojoba oil, and verbena essence can be found at most health food stores.
1 tablespoon powdered egg
1 tablespoon powdered milk
½ teaspoon honey, combined with a few drops of hot water to soften
2 tablespoons olive oil or jojoba oil
1 or 2 cups pasta water (for added nutrients), or plain boiled water
1 or 2 drops verbena essence, or your preferred fragrant oil
1.
Combine the powdered egg, powdered milk, softened honey, and olive oil to form a smooth paste.
2.
Add the water and the herbal essence, and stir to combine.
3.
Pour the entire mixture over well-rinsed hair.
4.
Wrap your hair with clear plastic wrap, making a turban, and allow the protein rinse to penetrate the hair for 1 hour or more.
LAVENDER-IT-WITH-LOVE SPRAY5.
Rinse well. Cleanse and/or condition, then style.
Lavender has cleansing properties, so this spray can cleanse and deodorize the hair and scalp. (The word
lavender
comes from the French word
laver,
which means to clean or wash.) It not only makes your hair smell like a Provençal lavender field, but it’s also indispensable for cleansing and reviving your curls. Make it in large quantities, and then keep some in a big spray bottle in your shower and in smaller travel-sized bottles in your purse, desk, and car for spritz on the go. Spray bottles are available at most drugstores and essential oils are available at most health food stores.
2 quarts water
5 drops pure (not synthetic) lavender essential oil
1.
Fill a large pot with the water.
2.
Cover the pot, bring the water to a boil on high heat, then turn the heat down to low and simmer for 1 hour to get rid of impurities. (Check occasionally to make sure the water isn’t boiling away.)
3.
Remove the water from the heat, add the lavender oil, stir to blend, and replace the lid.
4.
Let the lavender water steep until cool, then pour it into spray bottles.
5.
Store extra lavender spray in a cool place.
MULTITASK WITH LAVENDER SPRAYLavender spray makes a wonderful gift for friends, whether they are curly girls or not. Once you get hooked on the spray, you’ll find lots of other uses for it. Some of my clients have told me that their husbands sprayed it on them in the delivery room, because lavender is known to have a calming effect. You can also:
•
Use it as a room and car deodorizer.•
Spray it on bed linens to help you drift off to sleep.•
Spray it on clothes in the dryer to add a fresh scent.•
Use it to refresh your hair, face, and clothes after cooking or barbecuing.•
Keep it in your air travel bag so you can spritz on the plane.
We know that exfoliating is good for improving the condition of your skin. Since your scalp is also skin, an exfoliating treatment once a week will slough off dead skin cells or conditioner buildup, and relieve any itchiness. But don’t confuse dandruff with dry scalp. Or worse, don’t fall off the no-poo wagon and use a dandruff shampoo that contains harsh detergents. Instead, try this scrub when your scalp feels drier than usual, like during the winter months. Quinoa is a grain available at health food stores.
1 tablespoon brown sugar or uncooked quinoa
3 tablespoons conditioner
1.
Mix together the brown sugar or quinoa and the conditioner, and stir to create a thick paste.
2.
Wet your hair in the shower, then put the paste on your fingertips. Starting at the nape of your neck and moving upward, gently massage the paste on your scalp in a circular motion. Linger on any spots that seem tense or itchy.
3.
Rinse your hair thoroughly, then condition and style.
Makes scalp scrub for 1 session
Inspired by the Mayans, this rich avocado hair treat will nourish and moisturize dry ends. Jojoba oil and agave can be found at most health food stores.
Poetry in Potions: Wrapunzel (0:40)
1 ripe avocado, peeled and cored
3 to 4 teaspoons honey or agave syrup
8 to 10 drops olive oil or jojoba oil
1.
Put the avocado, honey, and oil in a blender. Blend briefly until combined.
2.
Apply the avocado mixture to your wet hair, especially targeting the ends.
3.
Wrap your hair with clear plastic wrap or a towel, making a turban. Leave on for 20 to 30 minutes.
LEMON AID4.
Rinse your hair thoroughly, cleanse and/or condition, then style.
This moisturizing and neutralizing tonic will remove chlorine and protect hair in hard water regions. It’s especially good for very dry or damaged locks.