Bread Matters (41 page)

malt flour, 94-5

milling methods, 22-5, 35

mixing, 104

oat flour, 86-7

organic flour, 44

protein, 78-81

rye flour, 83-5

and shaping, 116

sourdough, 155—6

spelt flour, 87

stoneground flour, 75

substituting in recipes, 68, 141

wheat flour, 75-83

flour treatment agent, 9

‘flying ferment’, 126

focaccia, 80, 211

folding dough, 114-15

folic acid, 36

food labels, 14-15, 16, 17-18

La Fornaia, 230

fortification, flour, 24, 36

fractionated fats, 9, 281

France: artisan bakers, 103

flour classification, 78

mineral deficiencies, 39

pain de campagne,
80

poolish, 126

proving baskets, 61

freezing: bread, 332, 334-5

croissants, 287—8

fresh yeast, 90

French country bread, 182-6

French National Institute for

Agricultural Research, 20

freshness, 28-9, 331-6

fruit: Danish pastries, 288-91

fruit and nut leaven bread, 188-90

sweet bun dough, 255

see also individual types of fruit

functional foods, 36

garbanzo bean flour, 306

garlic: mushroom and garlic bread, 219-20

gas bubbles, 10, 15, 89, 114

genetically modified organisms (GMOs), 11-12, 16-17, 20

genetics, wheat, 44

Gerarde, John, 186

germ, 22, 24, 82

Germany: flour classification, 78

organic yeast, 92

proving baskets, 61

sourdough, 38

stollen, 265-7

ginger cake (gluten-free), 326-7

glazes, 248-9

glebe land, 43

gliadin, 299

and coeliac disease, 4, 12, 281-2, 297

kneading, 106

lactobacilli and, 41

in organic flour, 44

preliminary yeasted doughs, 125

in wheat protein, 79

gluten, 299-300

extensibility and elasticity, 79-80

gas bubbles, 89

Grant Loaf, 131

kneading, 106, 108, 112

knocking back, 114

lactic acid bacteria and, 38

in oats, 86

and organic yeast, 93

pre-soaking, 105-6

preliminary yeasted doughs, 125

and protein, 78, 79

proving, 118

ripening, 125

rising, 113, 114

in rye flour, 84

salt and, 95

gluten-free baking, 295—328

cakes, 325-8

flours, 301-14

pastry, 324—5

pizza bases, 322-3

potato and quinoa bread, 321—2

rice, brazil nut and linseed bread, 317-20

yeasted gluten-free bread, 315-16

gluten intolerance, 4-5, 15, 41-3

glutenin, 79, 106, 299

glycaemic response, 40

glycerol mono-stearate (GMS), 11

gram flour (chickpea flour), 306—8

arkatena bread, 191—3

gluten-free cakes, 326

gluten-free pastry, 324-5

yeasted gluten-free bread, 315-16

Grant, Doris, 130-1

Grant Loaf, 130-1

grapes,
schiacciata di uva,
267—70

green salad with croûtons, 339-40

haemochromatosis, 36

hand kneading, 106-12

hands, cleaning with flour, 110—11

hard fat, 97

hard wheat, 78-80

hazelnuts: bun loaf, 258—9

fruit and nut leaven bread, 188-90

healthy eating policies, 33

hemicellulase, 13

herbicides, 20

herbs, toppings, 247

holes in bread, 137

hollow sounds, testing loaves, 122

honey: backferment, 158

honey and cream glaze, 249

hop bread, 186-8

hot cross buns, 121, 253, 255-8

humulones, 18

Hunza people, 43

hydrogenated fats and oils, 9, 97, 281

hygiene, 182

ice cream, brown bread, 345-7

icing, lemon, 291

‘improvers’, 10, 16

India, emmer, 88

industrial bread: bioavailability of minerals, 39—40

changes in 1960s, 3

Chorleywood Bread Process, 7-19

freshness, 28—9

and ‘health agenda’, 33-6

milling methods, 22—5

nutrification, 36—7

nutritional deficiencies, 22-5, 33

prices, 5—7

rising time, 27, 38

‘standard loaves’, 5—7

toast, 336

water content, 229

ways to improve, 46—9

wheat, 19-20

yeast, 26-7

International Maize and Wheat Improvement Center, 20

Ireland, 5-7, 42

iron: in bran, 39

fortified flour, 24, 25, 36, 37

milling methods, 23, 24

preliminary yeasted doughs, 125

sourdough process, 39

Italy: biga, 126

calzoni, 273, 276—7

emmer, 88

flour classification, 78

focaccia, 80

schiacciata di uva
(Tuscan harvest bread), 267—70

Jacob, H.E., 209

Jews, 17

Journot, 229

jowar, 309

jugs, measuring, 58

kamut, 87

Kirkland, John, 26

kneading, 104, 106-12

all-rye breads, 163

knocking back, 114

over-kneading, 112

knives, 59

knocking back, 114

krendel, 261

kugelhupf
, 236

kvas, 347-9

labels, 14-15, 16, 17-18

lactic acid, reducing staling, 333

lactobacilli: health benefits, 38-42

in preliminary yeasted doughs, 124, 125

sourdough, 155, 156-7, 158

Lactobacillus sanfranciscensis,
156

laminated dough, 280-93

lard, 97

lardy cake, 235, 292-3

L-cysteine hydrochloride, 10

‘leaky gut’, 41

leaven, 127, 157, 159

refreshing sponge, 214

rye sourdough, 197—8

spelt leaven, 193-4, 197-8

storage, 206, 207-8

wheat leaven, 179—82

lecithin, 10, 11

leftovers, 336-49

lemon icing, 291

linseeds, 37

rice, brazil nut and linseed bread, 317-20

toppings, 247

lipase, 12-13

liquids: breadmaking, 67

see also
water

Luard, Elisabeth, 235-6

lupin flour, 306-8

luxury chocolate cake (gluten-free), 327-8

McCarrison, Robert, 43-4

Magendie, François, 177

magnesium, 24

in bran, 39

milling process and, 23

preliminary yeasted doughs, 125

sourdough process, 39

Maillard-type reactions, and bread colour, 121

maize flour, 306

malt, 94-5, 116, 333

malt extract, 94

malt flour, 76, 94-5

maltogenic amylase, 12

maltose, 83, 85, 93, 94, 121

manganese, 23

manioc flour (tapioca flour), 312-14

gluten-free cakes, 326

gluten-free pastry, 324-5

pizza bases, 322—3

yeasted gluten-free bread, 315-16

Mansfield, Katherine, 227

Marie Antoinette, Queen of France, 235-6

Maris Widgeon wheat, 81

marzipan: marzipan wheels, 286-7

stollen, 265-7

Massingham, H.J., 81

measures, 65-72

measuring jugs, 58

methylcellulose, 297

milk: glazes, 248

milk bread, 145-6

millet flour, 300, 309-11

milling: extraction rate, 76-8

milling methods, 22-5, 35, 48

small mills, 80-1

minerals: ash content, 77-8

bioavailability, 39-40, 125

in bran, 39

fortified flour, 24, 36

and milling methods, 22, 23

in modern wheat, 22

sourdough process, 39

mixers, kneading, 106—7

mixing, 104—6

moisture: reducing staling, 333

reviving old bread, 336

molasses, kvas, 348—9

Molokhovets, Elena, 119, 261, 347, 349

molybdenum, 23

Monopolies Commission, 229

morning rolls, 149—52

Morris, William, 55

muffins, 242

Muir, Jenni, 302

mushroom and garlic bread, 219-20

Muslims, 17

Napoleon I, Emperor, 168-9, 177

National Food Survey, 34

Nestle, Marion, 35, 36

niacin (nicotinic acid), 23, 24, 25

nitrogen fertilisers, 44

no-time dough, 130-1

non-stick tins, 60

North Africa, 88

nutrification, 36—7

nutrition: changes in wheat production, 20

deficiencies in industrial bread, 22-5, 33

and milling methods, 22—5

‘whole diet’ approach, 34

nuts: bun loaf, 258-9

fruit and nut leaven bread, 188-90

sweet bun dough, 255

see also individual types of nut

oats, 86-7

fortified bread, 36

gluten, 299-300

oat flakes, 86-7

oatcakes, 241

toppings, 247

obesity, 34, 40, 125

O’Brien, Derek, 5-7

oestrogen, fortified bread, 37

oils, 67, 96, 97-8, 235, 281

old dough, 127

bread with old dough, 144-5

olive and pumpkin seed bread, 218-19

olive oil, 96, 97