D.I.Y. Delicious: Recipes and Ideas for Simple Food From Scratch (12 page)

This cake is perfect for nonbakers because it’s easy and foolproof. Inspired by a bumper crop of plums from a relative’s tree and my own homemade yogurt, I created this one summer day. The streusel was my friend Haven Bourque’s suggestion. This has become my signature cake and may become yours as well. It’s a great way to use frozen, sliced stone fruit of any sort, any time of year. Apples or pears, sautéed until soft before folding into the cake, are also a great idea
.

TIME REQUIRED:
about 30 minutes active; 45 minutes passive (excluding butter and yogurt preparation)

YIELD:
8 to 10 servings

1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour

½ cup yellow cornmeal

1½ teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon baking soda

8 tablespoons
Cultured Butter
or store-bought butter, softened

½ cup granulated sugar

½ cup lightly packed brown sugar

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

cup plain whole-milk
Yogurt

3 cups sliced fresh or thawed frozen plums or other fruit

1 cup (about 4 ounces) pecan or walnut halves, lightly toasted and roughly chopped

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Lightly butter and flour a 10-inch round cake pan. You can use a springform pan if you want to unmold it and serve it on a platter.

In a small bowl, sift together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt, and baking soda.

In a large bowl, using a handheld mixer, beat together the butter, granulated sugar, and ¼ cup of the brown sugar until creamy. Add the eggs and vanilla and mix to combine.

Add the dry ingredients and the yogurt to the sugar mixture in two additions, starting with the dry ingredients and ending with the yogurt. Fold in the fruit.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Mix together the nuts and the remaining brown sugar and sprinkle over the top of the cake.

Bake on the middle shelf of the oven, until the cake rises in the center and browns, and a toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Set the cake on a cooling rack and let it cool completely before cutting and serving, or removing from the pan. Wrap any leftovers well and store at room temperature for up to 2 days. The cake will keep, refrigerated, for 1 week, or may be frozen for 1 month, if wrapped well, whole or in pieces.

There is a whole class of cheese made using this method. Ricotta is one, though it was traditionally made from the whey left over from making hard cheeses. This recipe makes a cheese similar to whole-milk ricotta. The same process is used to make queso blanco and panir, but that soft Indian cheese is lightly pressed. Whatever you call this fresh cheese, it’s versatile; is easy for anyone to make; and tastes clean, sweet, and milky. You can create your own particular style of fresh cheese by adjusting the time you drain the cheese and the thickness of your cheesecloth. You can even try cutting holes in a plastic or metal container to make a cheese mold and then fashioning a press to make a pressed cheese. When moist, this cheese is good for spreading and using as a dessert filling. Drain it longer, and it’s perfect for pizza and pasta
.

TIME REQUIRED:
10 minutes active; 1 hour mostly passive, yet watchful

YIELD:
about 1¼ pounds, depending on how much whey you drain out

1 gallon whole milk (not ultra-pasteurized as you may have trouble curdling it)

cup white or apple cider vinegar, or ½ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

Non-iodized salt, such as kosher or cheese salt (optional; see
Sources
)

Pour the milk into a large nonreactive pot (stainless steel, ceramic, or enameled). Over medium-low heat, slowly bring up the milk temperature to 185 degrees F, stirring occasionally. Take your time, so you don’t scorch the milk. Stir occasionally and watch closely. This can take 45 minutes or longer.

While you wait, ready two, four, or six layers of cheesecloth (the number of layers depends on how dry you want your cheese), folded into a square of about 18 inches on each side. Place the cheesecloth in a strainer. Fewer layers will make the cheese drain more quickly and yield a drier, crumblier cheese.

If you don’t have an accurate thermometer, you can still make ricotta. The milk should be just short of boiling. Signs that the milk is almost ready include tiny bubbles on the sides of the pan and a shimmering, vibrating surface not yet broken by bubbles.

When the milk reaches the proper temperature, turn off the heat, pour in the vinegar and stir to distribute. Stop stirring and let the milk sit undisturbed for 5 to 8 minutes. You will see curds begin to form and separate from the whey. Using a slotted spoon or small, handheld strainer, spoon the curds out into the cheesecloth-lined strainer. It will look a little like wet biscuit dough. Work the cheese a little with a spoon to release some of the liquid. Tie the ends of the cheesecloth together so you have a bundle of cheese and hang it from a wooden spoon set across a big pot until it reaches the desired consistency (5 to 10 minutes). Reserve the whey for another use, transfer the cheese to a medium bowl, and season with salt, if desired. If using for desserts, you’ll want to add little or no salt. Mold the cheese or put it in a container and cover. The cheese will keep, refrigerated, for 4 to 5 days.

Don’t dump it down the drain! It provides nourishment for indoor and outdoor plants, and has many culinary uses besides. It can be used to cook porridges or grains for salads, or to serve as a broth for soup or beans. You can also add it to smoothies or simply drink it over ice.

Here’s another easy dish that illustrates how tasty foods from a D.I.Y. kitchen can be. A few fresh herbs, finely chopped shallots, and some great olive oil can transform your homemade fresh cheese into an impressive appetizer. You could do the exact same thing with store-bought cheese and it would taste good; but with your own cheese, it’s great. Just serve it in a small bowl with a spoon, accompanied by fresh bread, olives, and pickles; and it will disappear fast. You can also use the marinated cheese in pasta or on pizza
.

TIME REQUIRED:
5 minutes active (excluding cheese preparation)

YIELD:
½ pound; 4 to 6 servings as an appetizer

½ pound
Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley

2 teaspoons chopped fresh mint

2 teaspoons finely chopped shallot

1 teaspoon snipped fresh chives

½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme Pinch of red pepper flakes

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Put the cheese in a small bowl and add the oil, parsley, mint, shallot, chives, thyme, and red pepper flakes. Season with salt and pepper. Stir with a fork to crumble the cheese and distribute all the flavors. Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate for 1 or 2 days.

A luxurious filling of spinach and sweet, milky Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese encased in a crisp-tender olive oil crust makes for a special dish that will work as a light supper, a side dish, or a picnic item. For those who are intimidated by pastry crust or pie dough, this dough is easy to mix and roll out, bakes up beautifully, and won’t give you any trouble at all. You can substitute chard or kale for the spinach if you like
.

TIME REQUIRED:
about 45 minutes active; 1 hour passive (excluding cheese preparation)

YIELD:
4 servings as a meal; 6 as a side dish

OLIVE OIL CRUST

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon kosher salt

cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing filling

FILLING

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium yellow onion, diced

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 bunches spinach (about 1 pound), washed

Salt

¼ cup chopped fresh dill

½ pound
Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese

Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

To make the crust: In a medium bowl, mix together the flour and salt. Pour in the
cup olive oil and mix with a wooden spoon until the flour is moistened. Add
cup warm water and continue to stir. With your hands, knead the dough in the bowl for a few minutes until it comes together. The dough will be soft and elastic, but not sticky. Divide it into two equal portions, one slightly larger than the other, and set both aside while you prepare the filling.