Everest - The First Ascent: How a Champion of Science Helped to Conquer the Mountain (62 page)

Messner, Reinhold.
Everest: Expedition to the Ultimate.
Munich: MBLV Verlagsgessellschaft MbH, 1978 (English translation by Salkeld, Audrey (1979); London: Kaye and Ward, 1979).

Milledge, J. S. “The Silver Hut Expedition,” in Sutton, John R., Norman L. Jones, and Charles Houston (eds.),
Hypoxia: Man at Altitude
,
New York: Thieme Stratton Inc, 1982.

———. “Dr. Griffith CE Pugh, Field Physiologist,” in
Hypoxia and Molecular Medicine
, edited by Sutton, Houston and Coates, 1993, pp. 171–75.

———. “Lessons from History: The Silver Hut Expedition—A Commentary 40 Years On,”
Wilderness and Environmental Medicine
,
13 (2002), pp. 55–56.

———. “Altitude Medicine and Physiology Including Heat and Cold: A Review,”
Travel Medicine and Infectious Disease,
4,
Elsevier (2006), pp. 223–37.

Mitchison, N. A. “Peter Brian Medawar, February 28, 1915–October 2, 1987,”
Biographical Memoirs of the Fellows of the Royal Society
,
Vol. 35 (March 1990), pp. 282–301.

Molnar, G. W. “Survival of Hypothermia by Men Immersed in the Ocean,”
Journal of the American Physiological Association
,
Vol. 131 (1942), pp. 1046–50.

Morris, James.
Coronation Everest.
London: Faber & Faber, 1958.

Morris, J. N.
Uses of Epidemiology.
Edinburgh: Livingstone, 1957.

Morris, Peter J. “Porritt, Arthur Espie, Baron Porritt (1900–1994),”
Oxford Dictionary of National Biography
,
Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2004.

Mumm, A. L.
Alpine Club Register, 1857–1890
,
3 Vols. London: 1923–28.

Murray, W. H.
The Story of Everest.
London: J. M. Dent, 1953.

———.
The Evidence of Things Not Seen.
London: Baton Wicks, 2002.

Newburgh, L. H., and M. Harris (eds.).
Clothing Test Methods.
Washington, DC: National Research Council, Pub. No. 390, 1945.

Norton, E. F.
The Fight for Everest 1924.
London: Edward Arnold, 1925 (page numbers from reprint, Pilgrim’s Publishing, 2002).

———. “The Problem of Mount Everest,”
Alpine Journal
,
Vol. XXXVII, No. 230 (May 1925a), pp. 1–38 (read before the Alpine Club, December 15, 1924).

Noyce, Wilfred.
South Col: One Man’s Personal Adventure on Everest.
London: Heinemann, 1954.

Odell, N. E. “High Altitude and Oxygen,”
Himalayan Journal
,
Vol. 4 (1932), pp. 91–95.

Park, Roberta J. “Athletes and Their Training in Britain and America, 1800–1914,” in
Sport and Exercise Science
,
Berryman, Jack, and R. J. Park (eds.). Chicago: University of Illinois Press, 1992.

Parsons, M., and M. Rose.
Invisible on Everest.
Philadelphia: Old City Publishing, 2003.

Paton, Bruce C. “Cold Casualties and Conquests: The Effects of Cold on Warfare,” chapter 10 in Pandolf and Kent,
Medical Aspects of Harsh Environments
, Textbooks of Military Medicine, Vol. 1, Washington, DC: Borden Institute, 2001, pp. 313–39.

Perrin, Jim. Introduction to Shipton, Eric,
The Six Mountain Travel Books
, London: Diadem Books, 1985.

Pirie, Gordon.
Running Wild.
London: W. H. Allen, 1961.

Porter, D., and S. Wagg. “Introduction,”
Sport in History
,
26–3 (2006), pp. 345–51 (special issue on amateurism in sports).

Priestley, R.
South: The Race to the Pole.
Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2000.

Pugh, Lewis Griffith Cresswell Evans.
British Himalayan Expedition to Cho Oyu, 1952
, A Report to the Medical Research Council (unpublished manuscript).

———. “Technique Employed for Measuring Respiratory Exchanges on Mount Everest,”
Journal of Physiology
,
123 (1953), pp. 25–26.

———. “Himalayan Rations with Special Reference to the 1953 Everest Expedition,”
Proceedings of the Nutrition Society
,
13 (1954a), pp. 60–69.

———. “Food Consumption and Energy Balance at Various Altitudes,” Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1 (1954b), pp. 75–80.

———. “Scientific Aspects of the Expedition to Mount Everest, 1953,”
Geographical Journal
,
Vol. CXX, Part 2 (June 1954c).

———. “The Effects of Oxygen on Acclimatised Men at High Altitude,”
Proceedings of the Royal Society
, B 143 (1954d), pp. 14–17.

———. “Haemoglobin Levels on the British Himalayan Expedition to Cho Oyu in 1952 and Everest in 1953,”
Journal of Physiology
,
126 (1954e), pp. 38–39.

———. “Oxygen on Everest,”
Middlesex Hospital Journal
,
54 (1954f), pp. 4–6.

———. “Notes on Temperatures and Snow Conditions in the Everest Region in Spring 1952 and 1953,”
British Journal of Glaciology
, Vol. 2, No. 15 (1954g), pp. 363–65.

———. “Resting Ventilation and Alveolar Air on Mount Everest: With Remarks on the Relation of Barometric Pressure to Mountains,”
Journal of Physiology
,
135 (1957), pp. 590–610.

———. “Physiological Commentary” in
The British Ski Year Book
(ed., Sir Arnold Lunn), Vol. XVIII (1958–59), pp. 241–44.

———. “Muscular Exercise on Mount Everest,”
Journal of Physiology
,
141 (1958), pp. 233–61.

———. “Carbon Monoxide Content of the Blood and Other Observations on Weddell Seals,”
Nature
, Vol. 183, No. 4654 (January 10, 1959a) pp. 74–76.

———. “Carbon Monoxide Hazard in Antarctica,”
BMJ
(January 24, 1959b), pp. 192–96.

———. “Science in the Himalaya,”
Nature
, Vol. 191, No. 4787 (July 29, 1961), pp. 429–31.

———. “Physiological and Medical Aspects of the Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering Expedition, 1960–61,”
BMJ
(September 8, 1962a), pp. 621–27.

———. “Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering Expedition, 1960/61: The Scientific Programme,”
The Geographical Journal
,
Vol. 128, No. 4 (December 1962c), pp. 447–56.

———. “Tolerance to Extreme Cold in a Nepalese Pilgrim,”
Journal of Applied Physiology
, Vol. 18 (1963), pp. 1234–38.

———. “Deaths from Exposure on Four Inns Walking Competition, March 14–15, 1964: Report to Medical Commission on Accident Prevention,”
Lancet
, 13 (May 30, 1964a), pp. 1210–12.

———. “Man at High Altitude,” chapter 3 in
The Scientific Basis of Medicine Annual Reviews
(1964b), pp. 32–54.

———. “Altitude and Athletic Performance,”
Nature
,
207.5004 (September 25, 1965a), pp. 1397–98.

———. “Effect of Altitude on Athletic Performance,”
Kandahar Review
,
Vol. V, No. 1 (October 1965b), pp. 63–65.

———. “High Altitudes,” chapter 5 in Edholm, Dr. O. G., and A. L. Bacharach (eds.),
The Physiology of Human Survival
,
London and New York: Academic Press, 1965c.

———. “Accidental Hypothermia in Walkers, Climbers and Campers: Report to the Commission on Accident Prevention,”
BMJ
,
1 (January 15, 1966a), pp. 123–29.

———. “Clothing Insulation and Accidental Hypothermia in Youth,”
Nature
, Vol.
5030 (March 26, 1966b), pp. 1281–85.

———. “Athletes at Altitude,”
Journal of Physiology
,
192 (1967a), pp. 619–46.

———. “Cold, Stress and Muscular Exercise, with Special Reference to Accidental Hypothermia,”
BMJ
, 2 (1967c), pp. 333–37.

———. “Isafjordur Trawler Disaster: Medical Aspects,”
BMJ
, 1 (March 30, 1968), pp. 826–29.

———. “Thermal, Metabolic, Blood, and Circulatory Adjustments in Prolonged Outdoor Exercise,”
BMJ
, 2 (June 14, 1969a), pp. 657–62.

———. “Athletes at Altitude: Lessons of the 1968 Olympic Games,”
Transactions of the Medical Society of London
, 85 (1969b), pp. 76–83.

———. “Man at High Altitude,”
Journal of the Royal College of Physicians,
3 (1969c), pp. 385–97.

———. “Oxygen Intake in Track and Treadmill Running with Observations on the Effect of Air Resistance,”
Journal of Physiology
,
207 (1970), pp. 823–25.

———. “The Influence of Wind Resistance in Running and Walking and the Mechanical Efficiency of Work against Horizontal or Vertical Forces,”
Journal of Physiology
, 213 (1971), pp. 255–76.

———. “The Logistics of the Polar Journeys of Scott, Shackleton and Amundsen,”
Proceedings of the Royal Society of Medicine
, Vol. 65 (January 1972), pp. 42–47.

———. “The Gooseflesh Syndrome (Acute Anhidrotic Heat Exhaustion) in Long Distance Runners,”
British Journal of Physical Education
(March 1972a).

———. “Fitness Tests on Skiers Training for the British Women’s Alpine Ski Team,”
Kandahar Review
(1972b), pp. 39–47.

———. “The Oxygen Intake and Energy Cost of Walking Before and After Unilateral Hip Replacement, with Some Observations on the Use of Crutches,”
Journal of Joint and Bone Surgery
, British Volume 55(4) (November 1973), pp. 742–45.

———. “The Relation of Oxygen Intake and Speed in Competition Cycling and Comparative Observations on the Bicycle Ergometer,”
Journal of Physiology
,
241 (1974a), pp. 795–808.

———. “Air Resistance in Sport, with a Note on the Effect of Altitude,”
International Symposium on Exercise and Sports Physiology
, Netaji Subhas National Institute of Sports, Patiala, India (October 28–30, 1974b).

———. “Mount Cho Oyu, 1952, and Mount Everest, 1953,” in Sutton, J. R., N. L. Jones, and C. S. Houston (eds.),
Hypoxia: Man at High Altitude
,
New York: Thieme-Stratton, 1982.

———. “Everest 1953 Reminiscences,”
Alpine Journal
, Vol. 98, No. 342 (1993).

Pugh, L. G. C. E.,
et al.
Mountain Warfare Training Centre Ski Wing: Final Report
,
6913/PME/.1996.D/200.6.43 (Winter 1942–43).

Pugh, L. G. C. E., and F. A. Chrenko. “Observations on the Effects of Solar Radiation Inside Tents in Antarctica,”
Annals of Occupational Hygiene
, Vol. 5 (1962b), pp. 1–5.

Pugh, L. G. C. E., J. L. Corbett, and R. H. Johnson. “Rectal Temperatures, Weight Losses and Sweat Rates in Marathon Running,”
Journal of Applied Physiology
, Vol. 23, No. 3 (September 1967b), pp. 347–532.

Pugh, L. G. C. E., and O. G. Edholm. “The Physiology of Channel Swimmers,”
Lancet
(October 8, 1955), pp. 761–69.

Pugh, L. G. C. E., and M. P. Ward. “Some Effects of High Altitude on Man,”
Lancet
(December 1, 1956), pp. 1115–21.

Rennie, Drummond. “The Incidence, Importance and Prophylaxis of Acute Mountain Sickness,”
Lancet
(November 1976), pp. 1149–55.

Riddell, James.
Dog in the Snow.
London: Michael Joseph, 1957.

Riddell, W. J., “In Memoriam,” Obituary for Griffith Pugh,
Alpine Journal,
Vol. 100.344 (1995).

Ring, Jim.
How the English Made the Alps.
London: John Murray, 2000.

Riordan, James. “Amateurism, Sport and the Left: Amateurism for All Versus Amateur Elitism,”
Sport in History
, 26:3 (2006), pp. 468–83.

Robertson, D.
Mallory.
London:
Faber & Faber, 1969.

Robertson, John M. (ed.).
Characteristics of Men, Manners and Opinions
(1711). Indianapolis and New York: Bobbs-Merrill, 1964.

Roche, André. “The Swiss Everest Expedition: Spring 1952,”
Alpine Journal
,
Vol. LIX.286 (May 1953), pp. 1–8.

Rockett, Sam.
It’s Cold in the Channel
.
London: Hutchinson, 1956.

Rodway, George.
George Ingle Finch’s The Struggle for Everest.
Herefordshire: Carreg, 2008.

Rose, Hilary, and Steven Rose.
Science and Society.
London: Allen Lane, The Penguin Press, 1969.

Rothschild Report: “The Organisation and Management of Government Research and Development,” in
Cabinet Office: A Framework for Government Research and Development.
London: HMSO, November 1971.

Roxburgh, H. L. “Oxygen Equipment for Climbing Mount Everest,”
Geographical Journal
,
109 (1947),
pp. 207–16.

Royal College of Surgeons of England.
Working Party on Accident Prevention and Life Saving
,
1961–63.

Rubin, G. R. “Cassel, Sir Felix Maximilian Schoenbrunn, First Baronet (1869–1953).”
Oxford Dictionary of National Biography
, Oxford: Oxford University Press (September 2004).

Ruskin, John.
The Works of John Ruskin
(Library Edition, edited by Cook and Wedderburn). London: George Allen, 1903.

Ruttledge, Hugh. “The Mount Everest Expedition, 1933,”
Alpine Journal
, Vol. 45 (1933).

———. “The Mount Everest Expedition, 1933,”
Geographical Journal
,
Vol. LXXXIII (January 1934a).

———.
Everest 1933.
London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1934.

———.
Everest: The Unfinished Adventure.
London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1937.

Segrave, Jeffrey O., and Donald Chu (eds.).
The Olympic Games in Transition.
Champaign, IL: Human Kinetics Books, 1988.

Severinghaus, John W. “Sightings,”
High Altitude Medicine & Biology
, 5(4) (Winter 2004), pp. 389–94.

Shearman, Sir M.
Athletics and Football.
London: Longmans, Green and Co., 1887.

Shipton, Eric. “Expedition to Cho Oyu: Mr. Shipton’s Himalayan Objective,”
The Times
(April 8, 1952).

———. “Approach to the Himalayas, British Party’s Progress, April 17th,”
The Times
(May 10, 1952).