Everest - The First Ascent: How a Champion of Science Helped to Conquer the Mountain (63 page)

———. “The Expedition to Cho Oyu,”
Geographical Journal
, Vol. CXIX.2 (June 2, 1953), pp. 129–39.

———.
That Untravelled World.
London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1969.

Smith, Patrick, “International Olympic Committee Meets,” BBC Dispatch from Rome, N.277 (April 21, 1966).

Smythe, F. S.
Kamet Conquered.
London: Gollancz,
1933.

———. “Everest: The Final Problem,” published as a letter to the editor,
Alpine Journal
,
Vol. 46, 248/249 (1934), pp. 442–46.

———.
British Mountaineers.
London: Collins, 1942.

Snow, C. P. “The Two Cultures,”
New Statesman and Nation
(October 6, 1956), pp. 413–14.

———.
The Two Cultures and the Scientific Revolution
(reprint with an introduction by Stefan Collini, Cambridge University Press, 1998).

Springhall, J.
Youth, Empire and Society: British Youth Movements 1883–1940.
Beckenham: Croom Helm, 1977.

Steele, P.
Eric Shipton: Everest and Beyond.
London: Constable, 1998.

Stephen, L.
Some Early Impressions.
London: Hogarth Press, 1924.

Stewart, W. A. C.
Progressives and Radicals in English Education, 1750–1970.
London: Macmillan, 1972.

Stobart, Tom.
Adventurer’s Eye: Autobiography of the Everest Film Man.
London: Odhams Press, 1958.

Strachey, Lytton.
Eminent Victorians.
London: Chatto and Windus, 1918.

Summers, Julie.
Fearless on Everest.
London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 2000 (paperback edition, Phoenix, 2001).

Sutherland, Andrew. “Why are So Many People Dying On Everest?”
BMJ
,
333:452 (August 26, 2006).

Taylor, D. J.
On the Corinthian Spirit: The Decline in Amateurism in Sport.
London: Yellow Jersey Press, 2006.

Temple, Robert. “Sir Peter Medawar,”
New Scientist
,
No. 1405 (April 12, 1984), pp. 14–20.

Thane, P. “Cassel, Sir Ernest Joseph (1852–1921).”
Oxford Dictionary of National Biography
, Oxford: Oxford University Press (September 2004).

Tilman, H. W. “The Mount Everest Expedition of 1938,”
Geographical Journal
,
Vol. XCII.6 (December 1938), pp. 480–98.

———.
Mount Everest 1938.
Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1948.

———. “The Annapurna Himal and the South Side of Everest,”
Alpine Journal
, Vol. 28 (May 1951).

———. “Seventh Time Lucky,”
Time and Tide
(November 14, 1953).

Ullman, J. R.
Man of Everest
:
The Autobiography of Tenzing
(told to James Ramsay Ullman). London: Harrap, 1955.

Unna, P. J. “The Oxygen Equipment of the 1922 Everest Expedition,”
Alpine Journal
, 34 (1921–22), pp. 235–50.

Unsworth, Walt.
Everest.
London: Baton Wicks, 1981 (revised edition, 2000).

Ure, John. “Kirwan, Sir (Archibald) Laurence Patrick (1907–1999).”
Oxford Dictionary of National Biography
,
Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2004.

Venables, Stephen. “Everest Forty-Five Years On,”
Saga
(August 1998), pp. 46–48.

Wagg, Stephen. “‘Base Mechanic Arms’?, British Rowing, Some Ducks and the Shifting Politics of Amateurism,”
Sport in History
, Vol. 26, No. 3 (December 2006), pp. 520–39.

Wakefield, A. E. “The Health of the Everest Expeditions,”
Alpine Journal
,
Vol. 46, 248–9 (1934), pp. 449–51.

Wallechinsky, David.
The Complete Book of the Olympics.
London: Aurum Press, 2000.

Ward, Michael.
In This Short Span.
London: Gollancz, 1972.

———. “Thermal Balance and Its Regulation,” chapter 23 in Ward, Milledge, and West,
High Altitude Medicine and Physiology
, Philadelphia:
University of Pennsylvania Press, 1987.

———. “Everest 1951: The Footprints Attributed to the Yeti—Myth and Reality,”
Wilderness and Environmental Medicine
,
8 (1997), pp. 29–32.

———.
Everest: A Thousand Years of Exploration.
Glasgow: Ernest Press, 2003.

Ward, Michael, J. S. Milledge, and J. B. West.
High Altitude Medicine and Biology.
Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1989.

Warren, Dr. C. B. “The Medical and Physiological Aspects of the Mount Everest Expeditions,”
Geographical Journal
, Vol. XC, No. 2 (August 1937).

———. “Physiology,” in Ruttledge (1937), pp. 218–45.

———. “Mount Everest in 1938,”
St. Bartholomew’s Hospital Journal
(February 1939a).

———. “Mountain Sickness and the Physiological Problems of High Altitude Mountaineering,”
Alpine Journal
,
Vol. 51, No. 259 (November 1939b), pp. 271–83.

Washburn, Bradford. “The Location of Camp IX,”
Alpine Journal
,
108 (2003), pp. 20–21.

Wedell, G. “Hahn, Kurt Matthias Robert Martin (1886–1974),”
Oxford Dictionary of National Biography,
Oxford: Oxford University Press (September 2004).

West, John B.
Everest: The Testing Place.
New York: McGraw-Hill, 1985.

———. “Alexander M. Kellas and the Physiological Challenge of Mt. Everest,”
Journal of Applied Physiology
, Vol. 6387, Issue 1 (1987), pp. 3–11.

———. “The Silver Hut Expedition, High-Altitude Field Expeditions, and Low Pressure Chamber Simulations,” chapter 19 in Sutton, John, Charles Houston, and Geoffrey Coates (eds.), “Hypoxia and Molecular Medicine: Proceedings of the 8th International Hypoxia Symposium held at Lake Louise, Canada, February 9–13, 1993.”

———. “Prediction of Barometric Pressures at High Altitudes with the Use of Model Atmospheres,”
Journal of Applied Physiology
,
81:1850–1854 (1996).

———.
High Life: A History of High Altitude Physiology and Medicine.
New York: American Physiological Society, OUP, 1998.

———. “Failure on Everest: The Oxygen Equipment of the 1952 Swiss Everest Expedition,”
High Altitude Medicine and Biology
, Vol. 4, No. 1 (Spring 2003), pp. 39–43.

———. “George I. Finch and His Pioneering Use of Oxygen for Climbing at Extreme Altitudes,”
Journal of Applied Physiology
, 94(5) (May 1, 2003), pp. 1702–13.

———. “Georges Dreyer (1873–1934) and a Forgotten Episode of Respiratory Physiology at Oxford,”
Journal of Medical Biography
,
14 (3) (2006), pp. 140–49.

Wilber, Randall L.
Altitude Training and Athletic Performance.
Champaign, IL: Human Kinetics, 2004.

Wilson, Claude. “Valedictory Address,”
Alpine Journal
, Vol. 44, No. 244/245 (1932), p. 12.

Windsor, J., and G. Rodway. “English Air: The Story of the 1922 Mt. Everest Oxygen Apparatus,”
Wilderness and Environmental Medicine
,
20 (2009), pp. 83–88.

Woodgate, W.
Boating.
London: Longman, Green and Co., 1889.

Wrynn, Alison M. “‘A Debt Was Paid Off in Tears’: Science, IOC Politics and the Debate about High Altitude in the 1968 Mexico Olympics,”
International Journal of the History of Sport
,
Vol. 23, No. 7 (November 2006), pp. 1152–72.

Wyss-Dunant, Eduard. “The First Swiss Expedition to Mount Everest, 1952,”
Geographical Journal
,
Vol. CXIX (September 3, 1953).

Young, David.
The Olympic Myth of Greek Amateur Athletics.
Chicago: Ares, 1984.

Young, Geoffrey Winthrop.
Mountain Craft
,
2nd edition. London: Methuen, 1921 (7th edition, 1949, first published 1920).

———. “Club and Climbers 1880–1900,” in
Alpine Centenary, 1857–1957
,
Alpine Journal
,
Vol. 66, No. 295 (November 1957), pp. 52–61.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

John Hunt hoped that the conquest of Everest would inspire people all over the world to find Everest quests of their own. Writing this book has seemed like my own personal Everest quest. When I started, I felt completely overwhelmed and bewildered by the size of the task. Without the help, encouragement, and sheer human kindness shown to me by a huge array of friendly people, I would not have been able to do it. I want to convey my grateful thanks to all those people.

Throughout the researching and writing of this book I have been lucky enough to be able to seek the help and advice of a group of my father’s former colleagues, some of whom have sadly since died. For their huge contribution, and for much more, I owe heartfelt thanks to Professor John West and his wife, Penny; Dr. Jim Milledge and his wife, Pat; the late Dr. Michael Ward and his wife, Jane; the late Professor Richard Edwards and his wife, Eleri; Norman and Enid Hardie; Martin Hyman; Mike Gill; Dr. Mike Turner; Tim Johnston; Dr. David Jones; Professor Craig Sharp; Professor Raymond Clark; Mervyn de Calcina-Goff; John Brotherhood; the late Professor Sukhamay Lahiri and his wife, Krishna; Professor Bruce Paton; and Professor Rainer Goldsmith. They shared their memories of Griffith with me, helped to steer me toward a basic understanding of some of his main scientific achievements, patiently answered my layman’s questions about physiology, climbing, and athletics, opened doors, and generally provided unfailing encouragement and support. They were also kind enough to give up their time to read and comment on draft chapters at various stages of their evolution. However, I hasten to add that the opinions and conclusions expressed in the book, as well as any mistakes that, despite my best efforts, will inevitably have made their way into the text, are all entirely my own.

I also owe a big debt of gratitude to Colonel James Adam and his wife, Lucy; Hans Amstutz; Tony Asthill; the late Daphne Baker; the late George Band and his wife, Susan; Sir Roger Bannister; Clara Barell; Joyce Beacon; Felix Beardmore-Gray of Horris Hill School; Irene Beardsley; Lila Bishop; Jennifer Bourdillon; the late Juliet Browne; Hillary Buzzard; the late Ione Cassel; Tim Cassel; Lord and Lady Chorley; Wing Commander John Claydon; Liz and Sarah Clifton; Mick Conefrey; the late Michael Corfield; Dr. John Cotes; Tony and Lynne Crisp; Leslie Dandy; Geoff and Jackie Davidson; Professor Mervyn Davies and his wife, Jackie; Colonel Henry Day; the late Ann Veronica Dodkins; Diana Eden; Patrick Fagan; Dr. Ruedi Fassbind and his wife, Jacqueline; Ivor and Ann Faulconer; Duncan Geddes; Maria Goldberger; Oliver Greene; Alf Gregory; Teddy Harding; Luli Harvey; Dicon Hesketh-Prichard; Mary Hess; the late Dr. Heylings and his grandson, Johnny; the late Sir Edmund Hillary and Lady Hillary; Bodil Hinterer; Tom Hornbein; Dulcibel Jenkins; David Jones; the late Professor W. R. Keatinge; Alexandre Koutaissoff; Eve Lee; Diana Lees Jones; Professor Ian Little; Dr. Brian Lloyd; George Lowe; Peter Lunn; Chloe MacCarthy; Maureen McKenna; Jürg Marmet; Johanna Merz; Jan Morris; Sandy Munro; Joy Neale; Gerry North; Katharina Odermatt; Victoria and John Phillips; Edward Posey; June Posey; George Pownall; George Rodway; the late Joan Royle; Bill Ruthven of the Mount Everest Foundation; the late Belinda Ryan; Gina Sopwith; Bella Spurrier; the late Lady Sara Stephens; Anna Swan; Alan Tuffnell; Bruce Tulloh; Robert Underwood; Dayle Vargus of Harrow School; the late Michael Westmacott; Professor Edward Williams; Professor Heinz Wolff; Sheila Wright; the late Charles Wylie; and Professor Archie Young.

Special thanks to Dame Denise Evans, widow of Charles Evans, for letting me read Charles’s private diaries of the Cho Oyu and Everest expeditions; Jane Ward, for giving me access to her husband’s unpublished Everest Diary and his correspondence with my father and for much helpful advice; Peter Gillman, for sharing information and generously lending me his taped interview with my father; and to Ray Clarke, Jim Milledge, and Mervyn Goff, for giving me an invaluable copy of their video interview of my father. Thanks also to Vanessa Heggie for showing me her article on the Olympic movement before it was published, and directing me to the British Olympic Association archive; to Geraldine Thomas and Tessa Morgan, for advice on matters psychological; to Rich Brown, for help with the photos; to Johanna Merz, for showing me correspondence between herself and John Hunt; to Peter Steele, for allowing me access to his papers at the Alpine Club; and to Annabel Nichol and Mike Grocott, for allowing me access to symposia on high-altitude medicine and physiology.

I would also like to thank the staff of the archives and libraries I have used for my research, especially Margaret Ecclestone; Glyn Hughes; Yvonne Sibbold; Peter Rowland and Tadeusz Hudowski at the Alpine Club; Sarah Strong, Joy Wheeler, Eugene Rae, Janet Turner, Julie Carrington, and Jamie Owen at the Royal Geographical Society; the staff of the British Library; Amy Terriere and her colleagues at the British Olympic Association archives; Bruce Ralston of Auckland Museum, New Zealand; the staff of the University of Birmingham Special Collections; Rosa Parker and Thelma Kingsley at the Medical Research Council; the BBC Film Archive; Frank Norman and colleagues at the library and archive of the National Institute for Medical Research; the staff of the Imperial War Museum; Lynda Claassen and Steve Coy and their colleagues at the Mandeville Special Collections Library in San Diego; staff at the Royal Society Archive and the National Archives at Kew; the Wellcome library and archive; and Elizabeth Hussey, keeper of the British Ski Club archives.

If it hadn’t been for my family and the selfless support of my friends, especially Airdre Taylor, Nell Smith, and Mary Green, who have patiently counseled, inspired, listened, and advised; read, reread, and edited drafts; and encouraged and indulged my obsession for the last eight years, I would not have been able to write the book.

James, my husband, has been my beloved mainstay throughout the whole long saga. Venetia, Lizzie, and Rosie, my children, have held faith and encouraged me through all the highs and lows. My brothers Simon and Oliver have transcribed my father’s diaries and the family letters, helped with the archive research, attended some of the interviews, and scrutinized and discussed every draft with me.