Housebound Dogs (4 page)

Keeping your pet safe around the home is just like childproofing the house. You don't want to make yourself a nervous wreck, but using common sense and thinking ahead can prevent unnecessary pain and suffering for your pet. Here are some pet-proofing tips:

Garbage.
Put garbage cans in a cupboard or closet so the dog cannot eat or chew something harmful. If you prefer not to put the cans away, make sure that they have lids your dog cannot open. (Most dogs are not deterred by the swinging lids of the average kitchen trash can.)

Food.
Don't leave food out to defrost or in preparation for a meal unless you are
sure
that your dog cannot reach it. Even if the particular food is not harmful to him, if a dog gorges on it he can make himself sick. Some foods, such as chocolate, moldy cheese, and onions, can be toxic to dogs. Chicken, fish, and pork have small bones that can splinter or lodge in the dog's throat. Keep all of these food items in the refrigerator.

Cleaning supplies.
Store all cleaning supplies in tightly closed containers in closed cupboards or closets. Don't rely on your dog to abstain. Some dogs will eat
anything
, regardless of its taste or smell.

Small appliances.
Make sure toasters, irons, coffee makers, blenders, and so on sit well out of reach on sturdy counters or tables. Nothing that wobbles, please! If the dog can reach it or its cord, there's a chance that he can pull it or knock it down on himself.

Pots and pans.
Don't leave the stove burners on if you are not nearby. When cooking, turn the handles of pots and pans away from you; do not leave them sticking out over the edge of the stove. In fact, a good rule of thumb is to keep small creatures, whether dogs, cats, or humans, out of the kitchen when someone is cooking. Accidents happen all too quickly.

Lamps.
Make sure lamps have sturdy bases and will not tip over easily. Keep cords out of the dog's reach, especially if he likes to chew, to avoid electric shock.

Shades.
Some venetian blinds and draperies have long pull cords. Put a cup hook up high on the wall and loop the cord length around that to prevent it from hanging down at pet level.

Pins and needles.
Put away pincushions, needles, straight pins, and safety pins in a sewing box or drawer. Always close safety pins. If a pet should swallow one, it will do less damage to his throat and intestines if it is closed.

Tools.
Tools and craft supplies should be securely stored away or pushed back away from the edge of the work surface when you are using them. Do not leave them lying on the floor or on the edge of a
table or counter where they could fall or be knocked off. Electric tools should be unplugged when not in use.

Toys.
Keep toys, especially those made of breakable plastic, soft materials, or small pieces, out of the dog's reach. Any large toys or sports equipment, such as bikes, skis, and so on, should be either stowed securely or shut away in a closet or an area where the dog can't get to them.

Various chemicals.
Gasoline, paint thinner, paints or paintbrushes with wet or dried paint on them, garden chemicals, antifreeze, wind-shield washer fluid, car-cleaning supplies, laundry detergent, bleach, and so on should be stored out of reach.

Many of the recommendations and tips for an inside dog also apply to an outdoor dog. But you must take even greater precautions to keep her safe and comfortable.

Don't leave your dog alone on a lead. She can easily become tangled in the lead and choke herself. If the lead should get wrapped around her leg, she could break a limb trying to get free. If the lead gets hung up somehow and puts tension on the dog's collar, the pressure could damage her throat or choke her. If she wraps the lead around a tree or other object, she won't be able to reach her water bowl and may become dehydrated. Even if no tragedy results, dogs suffer; chained dogs are more likely to become vicious, more likely to bite and bark, and will certainly turn their restricted space into a muddy mess.

An outdoor kennel or fenced-in area is safer than a lead. The fence must be high enough that your dog cannot jump or crawl over it. (Some Labrador retrievers can climb chain-link fences!) Secure the bottom of the fence with railroad ties, thick posts, large rocks, or bricks so that she cannot tunnel under it. A fence, if it's sturdy and high enough and has a gate that locks, also protects your dog from people who might tease or steal her. Choose an area of your yard where it's okay for the dog to dig holes or wear a track in the grass. If possible, put her in a grassy area. She'll stay cleaner and, on hot days, cooler. Provide enough space for her to jog or walk back and forth a bit.

While outside, your dog needs protection from sun, wind, rain, snow, and extreme temperatures. Provide some sort of doghouse with a blanket or something comfy inside to sleep on. You can even set up her crate in this outside area. Make it denlike and keep out the elements
by covering the crate with a waterproof tarp. Leave only the front uncovered or partially covered so your dog can go in and out easily. Secure the door in an open position so that it cannot close and latch accidentally.

Here are other considerations for your outdoor dog:

An ample supply of water is a must. Leave out a water bowl and fill it with fresh water every day.

If the dog is confined to a small area and must relieve herself close to her doghouse or crate, clean up the excrement every day. It's a health hazard. Besides, you don't want her accidentally walking or lying in it.

Even an outdoor dog should have some entertaining toys to play with. Rotate them for variety every couple of days. Always leave her something safe to chew.

Dogs are sociable animals, not loners. Your dog misses you while you're away from the house. He's pleased and relieved to see you come through the door again. Over time, however, he learns to adjust to the comings and goings of his human pack. The arrangements you make to keep your dog happy, safe, and comfortable while you're gone play a big role in this adjustment.

However, some dogs left alone at home experience much more distress than is normal, even with the best of accommodations. This severe level of distress, called separation anxiety, is easy to distinguish from run-of-the-mill anxiety because the dog's behavior is extreme or very destructive. He may bark, howl, or yowl for hours on end, which your neighbors will tell you about with increasing irritability. He may try to escape from his secure area, and in doing so, he can do some real damage to the woodwork and floors by clawing, digging, or chewing. If left in a crate, he may injure his paws and mouth trying to chew his way out. Dogs suffering from separation anxiety seem unable to contain their relief at your return. They may seem frantic in their greeting, jumping and flinging themselves at you and barking or whining at a piercing pitch.

Separation anxiety must be addressed as soon as you notice it. This condition does not go away by itself, and if left untreated it will create more serious problems. Start by discussing the problem with your veterinarian. She will want to rule out any medical factors or conditions that
may be contributing to the separation anxiety. She may also be able to advise you on the steps to treat separation anxiety.

Also consider contacting a professional dog behaviorist. He will meet with you and your dog to assess the factors that have led to the problem. Then he will develop a behavioral plan that fits you and your dog's interactions and routines.

There are several things you can do to prevent separation anxiety from developing or to minimize its duration if it does set in. Make deliberate efforts to foster a sense of calm in your home life and in your interactions with your dog. Dogs are very attuned and responsive to our emotions; what you are feeling affects your dog. Gradually, as your dog absorbs your sense of peace, she'll become more relaxed and less anxious herself.

Give yourself enough time in the morning to go through your routines, including exercising your dog, without feeling hurried or rushed. If necessary, get up earlier or do some “morning” chores the night before, such as making a lunch or ironing your clothes. Encourage other members of your househould to take similar steps so that everyone is starting the day in a tranquil manner. Not only will this help start your dog's day right, but you'll find your own day goes more smoothly, too.

Your dog needs assurance that everything is going as it is supposed to. You
communicate this by acting with confidence in your interactions with him. Erase any guilt or mixed emotions you may be experiencing about leaving him home alone. Your dog can sense your anxieties, and they'll only confirm that he has reason to feel anxious himself.

Remember, you're the alpha dog — always. You are the one in charge and responsible for your dog. Your body language, manner, tone of voice, and facial expressions must reflect an attitude of authority and confidence. Dogs need to know their place in the pack hierarchy. When your dog recognizes you as the alpha dog, he'll feel more self-confident and relaxed. Being in the alpha position does not mean that you rule your dog with an iron fist. It does mean that you are responsible for understanding and taking good care of your pet's emotional and physical needs.

When you are home with your dog, especially for long stretches of time such as over a weekend, give your dog plenty of attention, but don't smother her with it. Don't take her with you everywhere you go. Leave her at home sometimes. You want her to view staying at home alone as an ordinary event.

Affection and attention are addictive, especially for the loving dog. With too much of it on the weekend, she can go into withdrawal when the busy week begins. She'll find the sudden loss of companionship acutely distressing. Too much attention and coddling can affect your dog in another way, too — it can undermine her sense of self-confidence. We all like to be babied now and then, but a steady diet of it can lead us to question our abilities to cope on our own. Dogs, like humans, are susceptible to such doubts, perhaps even more so because of their very real dependency on us.

One way to help ease the pain of separation is to keep your departures and returns low-key. This isn't easy to do when your dog's big brown eyes are begging you to drop everything and shower him with attention and affection. But making a big deal out of your hellos and goodbyes will only convince your dog that these events, and the time spent alone in between, are dramatic. Prolonged goodbyes charged with
emotion, particularly sadness, remorse, guilt, or worry, will convince him that something dreadful is about to happen. He'll begin to feel anxious. When you leave and don't come back, he interprets your absence as the “dreadful something.”