How to Eat (85 page)

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A New Book of Middle Eastern Food
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Acknowledgments

I’d like to thank all those whose recipes I’ve used or adapted in this book. They are mentioned by name in the text and listed in the bibliography. I’d like also to thank John Armit, and Alexandra Shulman, editor of
Vogue
, where some of these recipes started off, as did my life as a cookery writer, and Rebecca Willis, my editor there.

Thanks, too, to everyone who worked on the book at Chatto & Windus, especially Penny, Hoare, Caz Hildebrand, and Eugenie Boyd, for whose steadying calm I am particularly grateful; as I am also to Jonathan Burnham, to my agent, Ed Victor, and to Arthur Boehm, for the forbearance, intelligence, and wit he brought to bear on the American edition. Inés Alfillé double-checked recipes for me with serenity and efficiency, a rare combination. It’s also important for me to express my appreciation of my butcher, David Lidgate; my greengrocer’s Michanicou Brothers (and David) as well as Macken & Collins; and my fishmonger’s, Chalmers & Gray.

Deepest thanks to Paul Golding, on whose judgment and friendship I have relied throughout; to Lucy Heller, Olivia Lichtenstein, Reggie Nadelson, Justine Picardie, and Tracey Scoffield; and to Sharon Raeburn and Cheryl Robertson, without whom I could not have written this book.

To John, whose idea this book was and whose title it is, who has remained so encouraging despite being cruelly unable to eat the food. I can’t say thank you enough. You know.

For invaluable help in the preparation of the American edition of this book, the editor wishes to thank Nick Malgieri for sharing his compendious culinary knowledge; Cara Tannenbaum, for her diligent recipe testing and sweet friendship; and Jenny Scott, for her astute attention to so many queries, and for companionship, too. Thanks also to Miriam Brickman, to Judy Gingold—just because—and to Helen Rogan and Alfred Gingold. To Nigella Lawson, a poem, as yet uncomposed, on the delight of shared effort, and deep appreciation for her kind friendship.

Editor’s Note

The great success of
How to Eat
in its own land isn’t hard to fathom. Rooted firmly in the pleasures of home cooking, the book also encourages readers to be themselves in the kitchen—to trust and nurture their own relationship to food and the pleasures of the table. It’s a message people relish.

In “translating”
How to Eat
for American cooks, I’ve tried, whenever possible, to remain faithful to the book’s spirit of spontaneity. The author’s intention was to make the recipes easy to follow and reliable—they are—and also to allow cooks the freedom needed to gain pleasure and confidence in the kitchen. Thus, bossing and too much quantifying have been avoided; dish yields, for example, are given where necessary, but left otherwise to the judgment of the cook.

British readers have found
How to Eat
a new kitchen staple. I know its American audience will, too.

Index

The pagination of this electronic edition does not match the edition from which it was created. To locate a specific passage, please use the search feature of your e-book reader.

Almonds

Bakewell tart with fresh raspberries, 264–65

cake, and orange blossom, 115–16, 357

macaroons, 19

Anchovies, 196, 376

beef fillet with red wine, garlic, thyme and, 343, 344–45

beef stew with thyme and, 100, 265

dressing, 354

mayonnaise, rosemary and, 257–58

and peppers, 86

salad niçoise, 127–28

salsa verde, 181–83

sauce, pasta with, 148–49

steak mirabeau, 190–91

Apples

baked caramel, 228–29

buttered, 180

crumble, 41

crumble, and walnut, 156–57

tart, butterscotch, 285

tart, translucent, 277–78

Apricots

poached, 218

poached, stuffed with crème fraîche, pistachio-sprinkled, 320

Asparagus, 45

roasted, 45, 233, 376

Avgolemono sauce, 200

Avocado

guacamole, 321, 322

pea, and mint salad, 343

Baby food, 411–16

Bacon

freezing, 68–69

linguine with, 146

pheasant with mushrooms and, braised, 101

and salmon salad, 127

and scallops, 128

spaghetti carbonara, 146–47

spinach and raw mushroom salad, 262

veal, and liver pie, 432–34

Bakewell tart with fresh raspberries, 264–65

Baking sheet liners, 18

Banana custard, 225–26

Barbados cream, 117, 250

Barley, pea orzotto, 318–19

Basil

oil, 233

Thai, 388

unpestoed pesto, pasta with, 148

Bass, sea, baked, with rosemary, 263–64

Beans, 164, 309

and beef with pasta, 434

cannellini or cranberry, with garlic and sage, warm, 258–59

children’s recipes, 416–17, 437–38, 444

chile con carne, clove-hot, 437–38

and fish, 416–17

and lamb braise, 139–40

minestrone, 214, 215–17

miso dressing, thick, for, 395

soaking, 78

soup, black, 81–82

soup, and pasta, 444

tuna and, 196, 416

See also
Chickpeas; Green beans

Béarnaise, 16–17

steak, 136

Béchamel, 19–21

Beef

and beans with pasta, 434

braised in beer, 397–98

carpaccio of, 137–38

chile con carne, clove-hot, 437–38

chili, noodle soup, aromatic, 381–82

fillet with red wine, anchovies, garlic, and thyme, 343, 344–45

meatballs in tomato sauce, 434–37

roast, 249, 252

cold fillet of, 257

top rump of, 260

salad, hot-and-sour, Cambodian, 385

shepherd’s pie, 429–32

steak, 378–79

béarnaise, 136

and kidney beef, 223–25

Mirabeau, 190–91

au poivre, 136–37

stew with anchovies and thyme, 100, 265

stroganoff, 170

tagliata, 343, 345

Beer

beef braised in, 397–98

oxtail with marjoram and stout, 92–93

Beets

greens and buckwheat noodles, 390–91

salad, shredded, with yogurt, 391–92

soup, 392

Bell peppers.
See
Peppers

Berries, 401, 403

frozen, 167, 198–99

slump, summer, 280

See also
specific berries

Birthday cake, 25–27, 452–53

Biscuits, digestive, 447–48

Black bean soup, 81–82

Blackberries

butterscotch tart, 285

and cream, 281

crumble, 41

Blini, 152–54

Blueberries

in Barbados cream, 250

crumble, 41

Brandy butter (hard sauce), 59–60

Bread, 196–97

biscuits, digestive, 447–48

and cheese, 122

cheese stars, 446–47

freezing, 69

gypsy toast, 422–23

sauce, 58–59

white, basic, 28–30

Bread crumbs, drying, 22–23

Brussels sprouts

bubble and squeak, 61

and chestnuts, 57–58

Bubble and squeak, 61

Bulghur, 102

tabbouleh, 236–37, 290

Butter, brandy (hard sauce), 59–60

Butternut squash and pasta soup, 144

Butterscotch

apple tart, 285

sauce, 275

Cabbage

with caraway, 180

red, in Viennese fashion, 283, 284

sour-sweet, Japanese-flavored, 390

sweet-and-sour, 335

Caesar salad, 307–8

Cakes

almond and orange blossom, 115–16, 357

birthday, 25–27, 452–53

children’s party, 452–53

chocolate raspberry pudding, 316–17

clementine, 66–67

fairy, 448–49

fancy, 27–28

gingerbread, stem ginger, 114–15

hazelnut, 321, 324–25

Victoria sponge, 24–25

Calves liver.
See
Liver

Cambodian hot-and-sour beef salad, 385

Caper sauce for roast lamb, 281–82

Caramel apples, baked, 228–29

Cauliflower, 376, 428–29

Caviar, 152–53

Cawl, 94–95

Ceviche with hot garlic potatoes, 314–15

Chanterelles, sole with, 172–73

Cheese, 195

and baked potato, 373–74

with bitter salad, 204

bread and, 122

cauliflower, 428–29

macaroni and, 427–28

sauce, 20

stars, 446–47

See also specific cheeses

Cherries

couscous, and chickpeas, 186

pie, 294–95

Chestnuts

and Brussels sprouts, 57–58

and lentil soup, 64

and pancetta salad, 326–27

stuffing, 54

Chicken

breasts, marinated grilled, 165

breasts, with pesto, grilled, 165

and chickpea tagine, 99

children’s recipes, 423, 439–41

coq au vin, half-, 398–99

drumsticks, marinated, 441

lemon, 199–200