India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (105 page)

WHERE TO DINE

Beach-shack dining is one of the essential Goa experiences—sipping
feni
while you feast on grilled tiger prawns or masala shark at unbelievable prices is a must. With at least 200 licensed seasonal shacks between Candolim and Baga, you certainly won’t go hungry, but with names like Lover’s Corner, Fawlty Towers, and Goan Waves, don’t expect culinary magic. Best to stick to the following recommendations, or ask around for this seasons hot picks, since shacks come and go, and some of the good chefs make a habit of relocating.

At Calangute,
Souza Lobo
enjoys a legendary reputation for seafood—and deservedly so. Reserve a table on the beachfront patio and order the tandoor kingfish and crab-stuffed
papad,
or the expensive but excellent grilled lobster or tiger prawns (
0832/228-1234
or 0832/227-6463; daily 11am–11pm; reservations taken before 8pm; after that, wait in line). While in Baga, check out
Casa Portuguesa
(Baga Beach;
0832/227-7024;
closed Mon and May–Oct), set in an old bungalow near the beach; the chicken
cafreal
is highly recommended. If you have a sweet tooth,
Chocolatti
(409A Fort Aguada Rd., Candolim;
93-2610-3522
) is simply irresistible when it comes to homemade chocolates and brownies.

A number of good restaurants can also be found along the stretch of road between Arpora Hill and Baga Creek,
leading inland from Baga Beach: When Indian spices begin to take their toll,
Lila Café
(near Baga River, Arpora-Baga;
0832/227-9843;
Wed–Mon 9am–6pm, closed May–Sept), a great breakfast and lunch cafe (and apparently where Gregory Peck, David Niven, and Roger Moore hung out when filming
Sea of Wolves
), is the perfect spot (with views of paddy fields and coconut groves) to enjoy a proper coffee as you unwind with a mixed crowd. A selection of breads (including great pumpernickel sandwiches) and croissants is served with a variety of toppings; the salads are fresh and crunchy, and there’s well-prepared catch of the day. Also on Baga Creek, is famous
J&A’s Little Italy
(
0832/228-2364
or 98-2313-9488; daily 6pm–midnight, closed end of Apr to Sept), where Jamshed and Ayesha Madon serve fantastic pastas, wood-fired pizzas, and organic salads in a great alfresco setting. During peak season there’s always a long wait (well worth it), so do make reservations. The
regalo di mare
(prawns and squid in a tomato vinaigrette dressing served with pesto crostini) and
crespelle coi gamberi
(crepes stuffed with seafood) are personal favorites. Or try the delicious steaks or the perfect al dente pastas tossed in heavenly sauces.

Arguably one of the hottest (and most expensive) places this side of Panjim is
A Reverie
(next to Hotel Goan Heritage;
98-2317-4927
), an extremely fancy (and quite beautiful) restaurant with extravagant modern European cuisine—reports are up and down, however, with many people (even those who’ve loved the food in the past) complaining about fallen standards. In nearby Dando, between Aquada and Calangute,
Shiro
(Sinquerim Beach, Candolim;
0832/665-3366
)
is Goa’s first real Japanese restaurant (although there are a few dishes from other Far Eastern nations as well). Besides sushi—with a strong seafood bias—there are fusion items, too, but the sashimi platters are certainly what should draw you here. Shiro is housed in a vast beachside premises, with contemporary minimalist décor that helps with the venue’s transition into a club later at night.

Heading north, to Anjuna,
Sublime
(near the football field;
98-2248-4051
) offers fusion food and presentational styles that are quite difficult to classify, even for American owner Christopher (for example, he uses a French recipe for fish, which is accompanied by traditional Indian green lentils and an Italian sauce!). A reasonable, well-established alternative is
Xavier’s
(near the flea market, Praia de San Miguel;
0832/227-3402;
daily 9am–11pm)—it has a lovely ambience (with additional seating in the garden), and the seafood is always fresh and the lamb chops excellent. But perhaps the most reliable place in Anjuna, this time good for delicious pizza, is
Basilico
(D’mello Vaddo, near Casa Anjuna;
0832/227-3721;
daily 11am–midnight). It’s run by an Italian, which explains the authenticity and subtleties in flavor so often lacking in the many knockoff Italian joints.