India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (104 page)

Yab Yum Resort
With stone and thatch dome “pods” dreamt up by the owner after watching a futuristic TV series in the 1970s, this turns out to be one of the most authentic and lovely places to stay in Goa—
The Independent
called it the “quintessential tropical retreat.” Set behind the dunes on the edge of Aswem village amid coconut groves and banana trees, with the beach just a few paces away, the cluster of pods resembles a cute rustic village—steps lead up to the front door of your palm-frond-thatched igloo-shaped hut that rests on a solid plinth made from locally excavated lava rock. They’re a far cry from the dark, sweaty, often-gloomy backpacker digs that saturate Goa’s beachfront locations. Each one has a large stone bed, handmade mattress, cotton linens, cane and mango wood furniture, hanging space, cotton rugs and floor loungers, mosquito nets and incense, and reading lamps. The best, with sea views, are the pods set atop the dunes. There are also four whitewashed cottages in the traditional Indo-Portuguese style. You can order meals and drinks, delivered to you at your room, or on the beach or wherever, and organic breakfasts are brought to you each morning. Children are especially well taken care of—there’s a special tent for them and an on-site governess when you need respite.

Ashvem Beach, Mandrem.
0832/651-0392.
www.yabyumresorts.com
. [email protected] 17 units (all shower only). Dec 15–Feb Rs 4,400 standard dome/cottage double, Rs 5,000–Rs 5,500 family dome/twin cottage/Honey Pod, Rs 11,000 double suite pod; Mar–Apr 14 and Oct–Dec 14 Rs 3,300 standard dome/cottage double, Rs 4,000–Rs 4,400 family dome/twin cottage/Honey Pod, Rs 8,800 double suite pod. Rates include breakfast and taxes. MC, V. Closed Apr 15–Oct.
Amenities:
Light meals and bar service; airport transfers (Rs 1,200); babysitting and children’s activity tent; Internet (in the office, for e-mails; free); outdoor dipping pool and children’s pool; tailor; yoga and massage center. In room: Fans, Wi-Fi (Rs 200/day), no phone.

Inexpensive

Occupying the same infinitely peaceful location (and with the same excellent staff and restaurant) as Elsewhere (one of our favorite collection of “villas;” ), are the rustic-luxury
Otter Creek Tents
(
0832/224-7616;
www.aseascape.com
). Bargain hunters should really consider one of these three tents ($407–$663 double per week; $1,126 over Christmas and New Years), which overlook the freshwater creek; these are furnished with four-poster beds and have en-suite bathrooms with hot showers and personal lounges on a bamboo jetty. And there’s a great sense of exclusivity, to boot.

Another decent budget-oriented option (and one which you needn’t take for an entire week) would be to bag one of the two suites at
Hotel Bougainvillea
(
0832/227-3270
or -3271;
www.granpasinn.com
) in Anjuna, some distance from the beach.
Built by owner Betina Faria’s grandfather, it’s also fondly referred to as Granpa’s Inn and is a well-regarded hangout for backpackers looking for something a little more substantial and characterful than the shacks and impromptu guesthouses nearer the beach. Actually, the fact that Bougainvillea is a couple of miles away from the beach may be a bit of a letdown for some—for others, the distance from the flea market and endless vendors of Anjuna may be its saving grace. There’s a convoluted list of room categories, with standard (basic) doubles from Rs 850 to Rs 2,150; but those prized suites cost Rs 1,250 to Rs 2,450. Try to book the one with its own garden. The small accommodations are quiet and cool; there’s a lovely garden, swimming pool, and old pool table. Both short and long sessions of Brahmani yoga are held on the premises.

Presa di Goa
Luxembourg native Edouard Spaeck and his adopted Goan son Judas (with wife, Cynthia) have turned this country house in Nagoa into a cool retreat, offering unbelievable value; each room has a small balcony with a table and cane chairs where your breakfast is served. Rooms, each named after a flower (we recommend Crossandra), are furnished with well-restored colonial antiques, including ultrafirm four-poster beds (although those in the deluxe rooms are a little small), sofas, desks, and wardrobes or chests of drawers, handsome Indian artifacts, and cool cotton gowns. Although the closest beach is overrun Calangute, what you wake up to here is a chorus of birds and the shrill hum of what appears to be a lively forest—although you’re actually in the quaint, off-the-beaten-track village of Nagoa. Should you happen to be there on a Friday, hop into the car and go shopping with the cook to the Mapusa weekly market. At press time, seven new suites were scheduled to open in the Portuguese colonial mansion on the adjacent property.

353/1 Arais Wado, Nagoa, Calangute, Bardez 403 517.
0832/240-9067
through -9069 Fax 0832/240-9070.
www.presadigoa.com
. [email protected]. 7 units (most with tubs). Jan 3–Apr 15 56€–57€ double, 67€–82€ junior suite, 97€–107€ special junior suite, 17€–20€ extra bed; Apr 16–Dec 17 40€–48€ double, 48€–70€ junior suite, 73€–90€ special junior suite, 8.50€–17€ extra bed; Dec 18–Jan 2 75€ double, 100€–125€ junior suite, 150€ special junior suite, 25€ extra bed. Children 2–6 pay 50% with extra bed. Rates include breakfast and beach transfers; 10% tax extra. MC, V. Closed June.
Amenities:
Restaurant, bar; airport transfers (Rs 900); outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer on request, Wi-Fi (free).