India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (112 page)

Down the road from the Goa Marriott Resort (which, incidentally, has a very decent seafood restaurant,
Simply Fish,
overlooking the bay) is
Mum’s Kitchen
(Martin’s Building, D. B. Marg, Miramar;
98-2217-5559
). It has a laid-back Mediterranean atmosphere (some call it middle class) and does wonderful crab
xec-xec
(cooked in thick, spicy coconut gravy), prawn curry with bimley, Bombay duck, and pomfret
recheado
(fish stuffed with hot spices and pan-fried); the fried cauliflower is especially good. The owner, Rony Martins, not only invites you to examine his kitchen for standards of hygiene and his fish for freshness, he is on a mission to revive authentic Goan cuisine. He sources and adopts old “grandma” recipes and has started “A Cry of Goa”: an exercise to save Goan cuisine. Definitely avoid the fries, though.

To sample traditional Goan sweets while wandering Fontainhas, pop into
Confeitaria 31 de Janueiro,
one of the oldest bakeries in the state
(31 January Rd.;
0832/222-5791
).

Horseshoe
GOAN/PORTUGUESE If you’re looking for that one special place to enjoy a truly authentic Portuguese or Goan meal, make this it. Owner Vasco Silveira was born in another former Portuguese colony, Angola, but settled here years ago—his fine little restaurant celebrates 3 decades in 2010. Here, the lack of atmosphere is compensated for by excellent food and a more professional approach than you’ll find at most other places in town, including Viva Panjim (below). Besides stocking expensive Portuguese wines and offering many exotic-sounding specialties, Vasco also boasts that his is the only place in India where codfish (
bacalhau cozido com grâo
—very pricey) is served. Try one of the pork dishes, like
feijoada,
a hot mix of meat, beans, and spicy sausages with red chilies and plentiful spices; less spicy is the
leitâo assado,
roast piglet in wine sauce. You can also sample Goan-style clams—
sukhem tissero
—prepared with coconut and spices, and quite unique. There’s plenty more to choose from, but be sure to finish off with bebinca, a traditional Goan dessert.

E-245, Rua de Ourem, Fontainhas.
0832/243-1788.
Main courses Rs 145–Rs 725. MC, V. Oct–May Tues–Sat 12:30–2:30pm, Mon–Sat 7–10:30pm.

Viva Panjim
GOAN Tucked down a narrow alley in Panjim’s Latin Quarter (a short walk from Panjim Inn), this is a very popular (and slightly cramped) restaurant with tables that spill out into the cobbled road and nearby courtyard. Something of a culinary celebrity, Linda De Souza churns out very tasty Goan dishes, including huge portions of spicy fish curry (try kingfish
xacuti
). Prices are dirt-cheap and Linda comes out to check on you after she’s prepared your meal. The only drawbacks here tend to be the slightly disheveled appearance of the outside tables (some of them squashed up against the plumbing)—which can be okay from an atmosphere point of view, but isn’t particularly comfortable—and the waiters (wearing waistcoats and bow ties in the searing heat) are well meaning but ultimately slack.

House no.178, 31st January Rd., behind Mary Immaculate High School, Fontainhas.
0832/242-2405.
Main courses Rs 80–Rs 140. MC, V. Daily 11:30am–3:30pm and 7–10pm.

SHOPPING

For authentic Goan souvenirs, proceed to
Velha Goa Galleria
(
0832/242-6628
) in Fountainhas, Panjim, for
azulejos,
attractive Portuguese-style hand-painted tiles and ceramics. They are happy to pack these delicate items carefully so that they survive the journey home.

Fashion junkies will love the
Wendell Rodricks Design Space
(158 Campal, near Luis Gomes Garden;
0832/223-8177;
www.wendellrodricks.com
). Wendell believes in affordable designer wear, and his store has everything from evening gowns to casual wear. What makes his collection stand out is the emphasis on organic fabrics—his cottons are naturally dyed, too, using vinegar, onion, turmeric, indigo, and guava leaves, and everything is preshrunk. Then there’s
Sôsa’s
(E-245 Rua de Ourem;
0832/222-8063;
Mon–Sat 10am–7:15pm),
a trendy fashion store stocking couture by Goan designer Savio Jon (who makes relaxed, pretty, summery cotton dresses and very elegant men’s shirts as well as other young and rising designers.
Barefoot—The Home Store
(31st January Rd.;
0832/243-6815
) stocks some beautiful and very affordable glassware, including some lovely vases in extraordinary shapes; they also carry homeware, handicrafts, and clothing for men and women. You can browse quality homeware, textiles and furniture at
Fusionaccess
(Dias House, 13/32 Rua de Ormuz;
0832/665-0342;
www.fusionaccess.com
), located in a building opposite the Ferry Wharf. There are framed vintage posters and photos, cushion covers, wonderful textiles for curtains, and rather unusual mesh tower and mesh ball candles worth asking about.
Broadway
(1st Floor, Ashirvada Bldg., 18 June Rd.;
0832/664-7038;
www.bbcbooks.net
) is Goa’s largest bookstore with a far-reaching range. And, if by the end of your stay you’re sufficiently hooked on Portuguese-Goan music, head for
Rock & Raga
(June Rd., in Rizvi Tower;
0832/564-3320
), which has a good selection of local bands.