India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (116 page)

Just outside the entrance to the Radisson in Varca,
Pereira’s
(
0832/277-2413,
0832/277-2603, or 989-071-1363; closed June–Sept) is the more authentic (and good-value—although by no means cheap) option, where Goans and tourists (including guests of the Radisson) are catered to with one of those ridiculously eclectic and far-reaching menus—stick to the Goan seafood.

Susegado
GOAN/SEAFOOD With the constant roar of the ocean mediated by cool Indian tunes, this lavish version of the traditional Goan beach shack is an excellent choice for a special night out. Set on a stone plinth on the beach at the edge of The Leela’s manicured lawns, you sit at properly laid tables, on comfy, soft-covered cane chairs, and are treated like gold by friendly waiters who make informed recommendations (as opposed to telling you that “it depends on your taste,” which is a standard response in Goa’s beach restaurants). It’s the seafood that you absolutely
must
go for—ask what’s fresh and interesting today, or choose the best-looking specimen from the display. Sea bass is special to this part of Goa, and red snapper is always a good choice (it’s featured on the Fisherman’s Catch platter, along with Tiger prawns and squid). The fish is sold by weight (quite reasonably) and is best accompanied by perfectly crispy french fries. For dessert, there’s a selection of Movenpick ice creams, or a decadent chocoholic platter (with chocolate brownie, chocolate ice-cream, and chocolate cheesecake).

The Leela Kempinki, Cavelosim, Mobor.
0832/287-1234.
Reservations for nonguests essential. Main courses Rs 395–Rs 3,995. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3:30pm and 7–10:30pm; closed June–Sept.

Feasts with a Nostalgic Twist

In the village of Raia, is possibly Goa’s finest restaurant, lorded over by celebrity-status chef Fernando de Costa, who has converted part of his own home into the warm and traditional
Nostalgia
(
0832/277-7054
or -7098 or 982-210-3467 or 982-215-1296; daily 11am–3pm and 7–11pm). The name is in part to do with the decor—filled with antiques and carefully sourced objets—but also refers to the revival of Goan dishes that are quite forgotten in other parts. Expect to pay no more than Rs 700 for two people getting stuffed on delicious, authentic Goan dishes, prepared according to two different traditional Goan styles, either Saraswat or Catholic. Good Goan bands belt out vibey, soul-stirring tunes, and the atmosphere is quite smart. Besides many of the signature Goan curries, it’s well worth sparing a thought for the desserts, many of which are seldom prepared elsewhere. For an even more intimate and personal experience, call ahead to
Palácio Do Deão
(across from Holy Cross Church, Quepem;
0832/266-4029
or 98-2317-5639;
www.palaciododeao.com
;
daily 10am–6pm) and ask if the hostess, Celia Vasco da Gama, will prepare a meal for you—served in a belvedere behind the beautiful renovated heritage house owned by herself and her husband, Ruben. A charming couple, the Vasco da Gamas serve delicious, home-style versions of traditional Goan favorites—fofos do queijo (cheese balls) and peixe com molho (whole fish filled with green masala) among many more—polished off with authentic-tasting bebinca. Lunch here costs Rs 400 per person.

5 The Far South: Goa’s Best Beaches

Palolem is 40km (25 miles) S of Madgaon

If you’re on a tighter budget and looking for a party atmosphere that’s a little more reminiscent of the scene in north Goa (yet without the same commercial intensity), head farther south to the picturesque stretch of coast that stretches south from
Agonda
to the protected Olive Ridley turtle breeding beach of
Galgibaga
, another remote haven with eucalyptus trees and empty stretches of sand. The most famous beach—unfortunately now also increasingly overstocked with tourists and day-trippers—is
Palolem
. Until just a few years back, this was a thoroughly remote and tranquil hideaway; thankfully, though, despite the intrusion of shacks, trinket-peddlers, and human traffic, it remains one of India’s most beautiful stretches of coastline, a gorgeous sandy crescent cove lined with coconut palms and manned by fishermen with their outrigger boats that line the northern end of the beach. It remains relatively free of day-trippers, but if you find the crowds too much, simply walk until you find a quieter spot, even if you need to end up on neighboring
Patnem
. Accommodations in Palolem and Patnem, as well as still-lovely Agonda (just 7km/4 1⁄2 miles north of Palolem) were once limited to thatched tree houses or wooden houses on stilts, but now there are even semismart guesthouses available—some with hot water. At sunset, Palolem becomes a natural meditation spot; the sun disappearing slowly behind the beach’s northernmost promontory casts a shadow over local fishing boats, swimmers, joggers, cavorting dogs, and pockets of befuddled-looking cows, as the bars and restaurants come to life with pleasant lounge music. Palolem is also the birthplace of Goa’s enterprising new “silent party” scene.