India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (169 page)

Note that, like elsewhere, Kanchi’s temples close from 12:30 until 4pm, which means that you’ll need to head out rather early or—better still—arrive in time for evening
puja
(prayer). However, traffic into and out of Chennai can get hellish during peak hours. If you’re hot and hungry, head for the air-conditioned room at the
Saravana Bhavan
(there are two outlets, one at 504 Gandhi Rd; the other on Nellukkara Rd near Sri Kusal; both
6am–10:30pm), where you can feast on reasonably priced South Indian
dosas
(savory pancakes) along with delicious vegetarian thalis (multicourse platter).

Kanchipuram is 80km (50 miles) southwest of Chennai, taking 90 minutes to 2 hours to drive. It has no good accommodation options, hence our suggestion that you do this as a day trip from Chennai, or en route to Mamallapuram, leaving early enough to see the temples in the morning and arriving in Mamallapuram in time for a seafood lunch. Ask about guided tours of the temple town at the tourist office, or arrange for a guide along with a driver in Chennai. Otherwise, guides can be picked up around Kailasnath Temple for around Rs 250 to Rs 350; ask to see certification.

A Shrine to Shakti & Silk

In general, Indian visitors are drawn to
Kanchipuram
for two main reasons: its famed Kamakshi Amman temple is one of India’s three holiest shrines to Shakthi, Shiva’s female form, depicted as his consort, and—with 75% of the population employed in the hand-loom industry—its superb silk. The city is famous for producing the most exquisite hand-loomed silk saris in the world—called Kanjeevarams, the bridalwear of choice that become coveted heirlooms. A single Kanjeevaram sari costs anything from Rs 2,500 to Rs 100,000 or more, and can—depending on the intricacy of the pattern (often taken from temple carvings) and vividness of the colors (zari, gold thread, is often interwoven with the silk)—take from 10 days to a month to weave. Of course, you don’t have to wear a sari to covet the silk; plenty of haute couture designers have discovered its beauty, and any fashionista with international aspirations will include an item made from Kanchipuram silk on her ultimate wish list.

Tamil Temples: What to Wear & When to Visit

Tamil Nadu’s temples teem with devotees, and viewing their carvings and shrines as a non-worshipper is a privilege. Visitors are expected to follow the same dress code as devotees: women must bare neither their shoulders nor their legs—wear long dresses or skirts (or trousers if you must); shirts or T-shirts must have sleeves, or you may cover straps with a loose shawl. Men may not wear shorts (though dotis are allowed). No one may wear shoes of any description inside the temple; leave them outside, or, if there is one, at the depot you’ll find at the entrance (have Rs10 handy to tip the man who looks after them). If you’re concerned about leaving an expensive pair of sandals in a stranger’s hands, purchase a cheaper pair. Note that all temples close during the midday heat—between noon and 12:30pm and reopen at 4pm; time your visit accordingly. It is allowed to take photographs but use your common sense and do not intrude on people who are here to worship—switch your flash off and/or keep it pointed at inanimate objects. Temple elephants may be photographed but usually only if you are donating a rupee and been/being blessed; again, if you use an intrusive flash, restrict yourself to only one photograph.

WHERE TO STAY

Chennai has a large inventory of business-orientated hotels, providing reliable comfort and standardized service; the option that stands head and shoulders above the rest is the lovely
Taj Connemara,
the only hotel that has an old-world charm along with five-star service and efficiency and offering better value than it’s glitzy big brother, Taj Coromandal (though the latter, being the most expensive hotel in town, is good for spotting local celebs). The Courtyard Marriot is also a solid choice, though the lack of pool is a drawback, and Raintree (reviewed below) has the edge in terms of atmosphere and eco-credentials. Those on a budget should look no further than Lemon Tree (reviewed below), or Chennai’s first B&B,
Footprint.
If you have no interest in the city and want to immerse yourself directly in a festive vacation atmosphere, you can also head straight down the coast to
Fisherman’s Cove,
one of Tamil Nadu’s most charming resorts, located right on the beach, and a mere 50 minutes’ drive (28km/17 miles) from Chennai airport (and about 20km/12 miles from Mahabalipurum).

Note that if you’re just in transit, a few good hotels are located near the airport, the best of which is the low-rise
Trident
(
044/2234-4747;
www.tridenthotels.com
). It’s 3 minutes away from the airport (airport transfers are free); the CBD is about 20 minutes away. Staffers have all benefited from the Oberoi school of training, so service levels are among the best in the city, with facilities very much aimed at the business traveler. Mindful of their core market, rooms are also soundproofed, with blackout blinds to further cocoon the potentially jet-lagged traveler. The pool area is great; you’d never know you were in a semi-industrial area (until aircrafts take off, of course). If the rates strike you as steep (from Rs 10,500 double), you should see what neighbor
Radisson GRT
(
www.radisson.com
) is offering; at press time it was pretty identical, but rates for both hotels change daily and can be heavily discounted depending on availability; rooms at Radisson have undergone a makeover and are looking more plush (if a little over-furnished) than the Trident, and it has one of Chennai’s most celebrated restaurants (see dining below), but when it comes to service (and pool) the Trident has the edge.

Note:
Many of the city’s upmarket hotels offer significant discounts on published rates depending on occupancy; so do check online and use the rates below only as guidelines. Note also that there is a luxury tax of 12.5% on all hotel rooms (10.3% on services like Wi-Fi or airport transfers); quoted rates rarely include this.

Footprint
B&Bs are virtually unheard of in India (“homestay” is the term here, with a potential lack of privacy that that may imply), but hopefully Footprint, tucked away on the second floor of an apartment building behind the ITC Park Sheraton Hotel, is the start of a new trend. Brainchild of Rucha and Ashish Gupta, Footprint is essentially used by travelers transiting through Chennai on their way to or from the Andamans (Ashish is cofounder and director of “Barefoot at Havelocks” in the Andaman Islands, hence the name). It’s quiet, private, classy (fresh flowers, Auroville incense, great linens, a choice of pillows), well located (in the south-central posh suburb of Alwarpet, close to shops and restaurants), filled with thoughtful touches and just unbelievable value. Rucha and her small staff (breakfast cook/concierge/chambermaid) is on hand to assist with any queries, from how much to pay your rickshaw driver, to where to eat (or order in) and shop for specifics. (
Note:
no walk-ins, so book in advance.)

Flat 2a and 2b, Gayatri Apts., 16 South St, Sriram Nagar, Alwarpet, Chennai 600 018.
044/98400-37483
or 3255-7720.
Fax 044/2434-2668.
www.footprint.in
. [email protected]. 9 units (all en-suite; showers only). Rs 3000 double, including breakfast. Children under 12 Rs 250; extra adult Rs 500. MC, V (100% upfront payment required).
Amenities:
2 small living areas; dining area; daily newspapers and selection of glossy magazines; small library nook; airport transfers; concierge; Internet (free). In room: A/C, TV, Wi-Fi (free)

Lemon Tree
This relative newcomer offers comfortable hotel accommodations and facilities at a price that its competitors are finding impossible to beat. It’s by no means luxurious, with that slightly stark pared-down atmosphere typical of any budget hotel, but everything is gleaming new and fresh (or was at press time; at these rates the hotel occupancy will remain high and may take it’s toll!). It also has a ladies-only floor; excellent-value standard rooms; dedicated smoke-free rooms (worth specifying), and the kind of facilities and generous touches (like free morning newspapers) one associates with more expensive options. Staff is generally also of high caliber. The only drawback is that its location in Guindy means it’s a little far from the center—at least 45 minutes to Egmore railway station (25 min. to the airport).