India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (178 page)

3 Puducherry (Pondicherry)

189km (117 miles) S of Chennai

Puducherry (Pondicherry)

Pondicherry’s ancient history dates from the Vedic era; the Romans traded here 2 millennia ago, and the Portuguese arrived in 1521. Dutch and Danish traders followed, but it was the French—who purchased the town in the late 17th century, only relinquishing their hold in 1954—who left by far the most enduring legacy. Now a Union Territory, with its own local government, this seaside colony retains its French élan, tempered by South Indian warmth, making it one of India’s most relaxing destinations, with virtually all sights and shops within walking distance. After hanging out in your antiques-filled colonial hotel and sauntering around the broad boulevards of the tranquil
French Quarter
(where you’ll see old men in thick-rimmed spectacles under the apparent illusion that they’re in a Parisian
arrondissement
), it comes as a pleasant shock to step over the “Grand Canal” into a typical Tamil town, where cracked pavements are jam-packed with people and shops, and wares on offer blend Indian craftsmanship with Western-influenced designs. Even if you’re not a keen shopper or particularly interested in French colonial architecture, you can immerse yourself in the spirituality of Puducherry (as it is increasingly referred to) by joining the New Age travelers and Indian pilgrims here to pay their respects at the ashram of
Sri Aurobindo,
their blissful commitment making this a bizarrely authentic spiritual experience. Or you can visit nearby
Auroville,
an interesting experiment in alternative living, also optimistically known as the City of Dawn. Ashramic allure and Aurovillian aura aside, Pondi (as it is affectionately called) is the type of charming seaside town where you arrive for a quick overnighter and will end up wishing you could stay for longer; like Goa, it has a number of expats whizzing around on scooters to prove the strong pull it exerts. And, yes, it’s far friendlier than Bordeaux.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE & AWAY
At press time Pondicherry’s long-awaited airport (which was due to open around Mar 2009) was still many months from completion due to the runway being washed away, but check if you’d prefer to fly; Kingfisher airlines will no doubt service this route. Until then, Pondicherry is best reached by road from Chennai, a 3-hour drive (140km/87 miles from the airport) along a mostly good quality two-lane highway; a taxi from Chennai airport here will run you around Rs 2,000 (Rs 1,800 if you’re coming from Pondi). There are also regular buses (Rs 50–Rs 60) connecting Pondi with Chennai. To get here by train from Chennai (or Madurai/Trichy), you must first travel to Villuparam (VM) station, which is located an inconvenient 30 min. drive away from Pondi’s beachfront (buses every 10–15 min. in peak time); the journey by rail takes 5 hours from Chennai. See chapter 3 for online rail reservations.

VISITOR INFORMATION
Pondicherry’s helpful
Tourism Information Centre
(40 Goubert Ave.;
0413/233-9497;
fax 0413/233-0532;
www.tourism.pondicherry.gov.in
; daily 9am–5pm) can help you with maps, brochures, and tour bookings. A good locally based travel agent is
Travelmate
(
0413/420-0525;
www.thetravelmate.com
).

GETTING AROUND
By Taxi & Auto-Rickshaw
Auto-rickshaws prowl the streets in some areas, actively soliciting fares. Overcharging is rife, but if you’ve got several miles to cover, it may be worthwhile to hire one; the minimum charge is Rs 30 for 6km (3 3⁄4 miles). Pondi to Auroville costs around Rs 250 by auto-rickshaw and Rs 350 to Rs 400 by taxi; two recommended taxi operators are Sarvanan (
94420-68821
) and Mr. Anand from Ganapathy Travels (
94420-66853
).

By Bicycle
Parts of Pondicherry are immaculate and ideal for exploration by bike. You can rent a bike (Rs 35–Rs 40 per day) from the Pondicherry Tourism Information Centre (see above). Ask about hiring the services of a guide who can cycle along with you. Alternatively, pop into
Sri Manonmani Amman Cycle Store
(
98941-72244
) on Mission street, opposite the South India Bank, for a wide choice of bicycles and scooters.

GUIDED TOURS
Guided tours and sightseeing trips can be arranged through Pondicherry Tourism (see above); Rs 250 for full day bus tour (9:45am-5pm) or Rs 150 for half day. Alternatively you can also pick up a very good Heritage Trail map, with two clearly indicated walks (covering The French Quarter and The Tamil Quarter), and explore at your own pace. Alternatively, for heritage walks with a guide, make direct contact with
Indian National Trust for Art & Cultural Heritage
(
INTACH,
14 Labourdonnais S.;
0413/222-5991
or -7324;
www.intach.org
; [email protected]).

INTERESTING DATES
Proof of its multicultural roots and current inhabitants are found in Pondi’s annual calendar of important dates: Pongal, a Tamil harvest festival, is celebrated in January, while Masi Mangam, in which deities from 38 temples are taken to the sea for symbolic immersion, followed by their devotees, takes place during full moon over the Feb to March period. Bastille Day in July is the next big event, followed by Sri Aurobindo’s birth anniversary on August 15, and the Fete de Pondicherry August 15 to 17.

WHAT TO SEE & DO

The joy of Pondicherry is the fact that you can do it all on foot, experiencing the wonderful contrast between the French and Tamil quarter. Start by wandering through its tree-lined French Quarter, which developed around the beachfront and Bharathi Park, and is today one of India’s most prepossessing neighborhoods, with wide boulevards, uncluttered roads, bilingual signs, stately government buildings, and gorgeous classical-influenced colonial villas. Then step into another world by crossing the “Grand Canal” aqueduct, into the area the French used to call “black town”—typically Tamil, with tiny shops lining crowded streets, beeping motorbikes and rickshaws, and—at night—an almost carnival atmosphere. The architecture in the Tamil part is also charming, though less obviously so—typical of the state, these are “talking streets”: wall-to-wall intimate and designed for socializing, with interiors usually having several courtyards; the first floor, assuming there is one, tends to show more French colonial influences. Besides strolling the streets and enjoying the peacefulness of the French quarter or the bustling chaos of the Tamil part of town, you could spend a good few days browsing shops for some of the best bargains to be had in such a small town atmosphere, and taking the seaside promenade for evening strolls along with the locals and predominantly French tourists. The only other attractions (and really, this is one place you can feel entirely guilt-free doing nothing!) are the serene and powerful
Aurobindo Ashram,
and a trip to
Auroville
(the “City of Dawn”), the latter a must for anyone who remains a hippie at heart.