India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (184 page)

36 Vysial St.
0413/222-3738.
[email protected], [email protected]. Main courses Rs 100–Rs 220. MC, V. Daily 11:30am–4:30pm and 6:30–10pm.

Satsanga
FRENCH This Pondi institution, still owner-run by Pierre Elouard, an expat from the south of France who has been living in Auroville for well over 40 years, is considered the best French restaurant in Pondi. It’s certainly a pleasant enough venue, particularly in the evenings when the alfresco courtyard-style restaurant, with deep eaves all round to keep it cool, looks at its most romantic. Furnishings and general maintenance are less stellar during the harsh light of day, and we’ve heard some complaints about lackadaisical service; not enough to stop the large contingency of French tourists Pondi attracts from dining here however. If you’re a carnivore, opt for their legendary green-pepper filet
(filet au poivre vert)
or the fish Provençal; the bouillabaisse is also a signature.

30 Labourdonnais St.;
0413/222-5867.
Main courses Rs 200–Rs 300. MC, V. Daily 8am–10pm.

SHOPPING

Pondicherry is paradise for shoppers: Not only because of the cosmopolitan and hugely creative effect Auroville has had on the retail market, but just about everything is within walking distance (and there are plenty of eager rickshaws if not), and the goods on offer are often better value than what is charged in Delhi and Mumbai, where much of the Auroville and ashram goods are destined.

First stop has to be Mission Street to spend at least an hour at Auroville’s best outlet,
Kalki
(132 Mission St.;
0413/233-9166
), where you browse for super nonleather footwear, hand-painted silk clothing, perfumed candles, incense, oils, ceramics, jewelry, and handmade paper items to the accompaniment of artsy, esoteric music. It’s not that cheap, but the atmosphere and selection is fantastic. If there’s anything you want that’s not in your size, you can arrange to have it made and couriered to your next destination. Across the road is
Casablanca
(165 Mission St.;
0413/222-6495
or 0413/233-6495), one of South India’s funkiest department stores (owned by the
glam couple who created Le Dupleix and The Promenade), with top international brands spread over three floors.
If you love linen, head straight upstairs and peruse the gorgeous Gecko stock ([email protected]). There’s also plenty of homewear stuff. Casablanca is also a great place to pick out a stylish new leather handbag, belt, briefcase, wallet or suitcase from the
Hidesign
selection on offer, or you can pop around the corner to its seconds outlet in Nehru Street—Hidesign is sold all over the world (last count 2,000 outlets) but never cheaper than here, where leather goods that appear flawless are sold at up to 50% of the original asking price.

Also an easy stroll from Casablanca is the
Titanic Factory Outlet
(33 Aambalathadayar Madam St.; parallel to Nehru St.;
0413/234-2075
), for international brands (Guess, Ralph Lauren, Gap, Tommy Hilfiger, Timberland, and the like) that have for some spurious reason been rejected or are simply surplus, and now sold at unbelievable prices—a great place to dig for clothing bargains, but give yourself plenty of time (and be wary of how the excitement of cheap individual purchases can result in a cumulatively large bill!). Also on Mission Street, next to the Church of Immaculate Conception,
Focus
bookstore (
0413/234-5513
) has hundreds of books on Indian culture and religion, owned and run by the ashram. Heading north down Mission street you will find the new outlet of
Diva,
a new fashion outlet that sells outrageously cheap pretty jewelry as well as modern clothing for Indian women—a Chennai institution, Diva is a great place to pick up some dirt-cheap items that are clearly not Western, and may transform your look (
0413/222-7468;
www.divastyle.in
). Nearby, at 44 Aurobindo Street is
Home Trotter Stores,
a great little homewear store (
0413/222-1600
).