India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (226 page)

But despite its host of attractions, unless you’re staying in one of its top hotels (of which colonial-era Imperial and spanking-new Aman are almost destinations in their own right), Delhi is not a very relaxing destination, and it is as famous for its pollution (rated among the top 20 worst-polluted cities in the world for decades) as it is for its sights. Unless you’re a history buff or here on business or like to get caught up in the hustle and bustle of a big city, spend as much time as you need to recover from jet lag, choosing to view only a few of its many attractions (the best of which are listed below), and then move on. The rest of India, with its awesome array of experiences and beauty, awaits you.

A Tale of Seven Cities

Chosen by the strategically astute invaders who attacked from the north, east, and west, Delhi was not only the gateway to the fertile Gangetic plains and watered by its own Yamuna River, but it enjoyed some protection from the west by the Aravalli Mountains that cross latter-day Rajasthan, and by the Himalayas to the north. Despite this, waves of invaders resulted in the creation—and more often than not destruction—of at least seven distinct cities. The earliest accounts and archaeological finds date from 1000
B.C.
, when—according to the Mahabharata epic, most revered of Hindu religious texts—the Pandavas and their cousins the Kauravas battled for the city of
Indraprastha,
thought to be located under the present ruins of Purana Qila, citadel of the sixth capital. But the earliest existing ruins date from
A.D.
736, when the Tomara Rajputs, one of the self-anointed warrior clans to which Rajasthan gave birth, built the fortress
Lal Kot,
around which grew
Qila Rai Pithora,
today known as the first city of Delhi. In 1180 the Tomaras were ousted by the Chauhan Rajputs, who were in turn forced back to Rajasthan by the Slave King Qutb-ud-din Aibak, a Turkish general. He built the
Qutb Complex,
which remains one of the most interesting sights in the city (see “The Top Attractions,” later in this section). Aibak served under the Afghani Muhammad Ghori until Ghori’s assassination in 1206. Aibak took over the Indian spoils of war, founding the Delhi Sultanate, which was to rule Delhi and the surrounding region for almost 2 centuries. In 1303, the Delhi Sultan Ala-ud-din Khilji built the second city,
Siri,
near present-day Hauz Khas. Then the Tughluqs built
Tughlaqabad,
8km (5 miles) east of the Qutb Complex, but this was deserted in 1321 and little remains of the third city. After a brief sojourn in latter-day Maharashtra, the Tughluqs moved the city again in 1327, this time between Lal Kot and Siri, and named this fourth city
Jahanpanah.
A mere 27 years later it was moved again, this time some distance north to an eminently sensible position on the Yamuna River. Named
Ferozabad,
this sprawling fifth city was, according to legend, one of the richest in the world. But how the mighty do fall or, according to the Persian prophecy, “Whoever builds a new city in Delhi will lose it.” Timur drove the Tughluqs out of Delhi, and while his successors, the Sayyids and Lodis, did not build brand-new cities, their tombs are found scattered in the appropriately named
Lodi Gardens.
Their defeat by the Mughal Babur signaled the end of Sultanate rule and the start of the Mughal empire, one of the world’s greatest medieval dynasties, which ruled the region for over 200 years.

It was Babur who first moved the capital to nearby Agra, but his son
Humayun
chose to return to Delhi in 1534, only to be forced into exile by the advancing army of the Afghan Sher Shah, who took possession of
Purana Qila
(literally “old fort”) in 1540, rebuilt this sixth city, and renamed the citadel
Shergarh.
Fifteen years later, Humayun finally ousted the Afghan, only to die an ignominious death a year later, falling down his library steps—his tomb, which can be seen from the southern gate of Purana Qila, remains one of Delhi’s top attractions.

Humayun’s son, Akbar—generally revered for his religious tolerance and diplomacy—again chose to move the capital back to Agra. Only after Akbar’s grandson, Shah Jahan, built the Taj Mahal for his wife, did Delhi again become the capital in 1638. Shah Jahan, the greatest architect of the Mughal dynasty, rebuilt an entirely new city, using materials from the ruins of Ferozabad (and, it is said, leaving the corpses of criminals to settle in the foundations). Not known for his humility, he named it
Shahjahanabad.
Shahjahanabad is still very much inhabited, and is today usually referred to as “Old Delhi,” home to many of the city’s top attractions. After Shah Jahan was viciously deposed by his son, Aurangzeb (see ”The Life & Times of the Mughal Emperors,” later in this chapter), Mughal power began to wane, and with it the importance of Delhi. It was only with the advent of British power that Delhi again played a pivotal role in the affairs of India. After the “Indian Mutiny” (or “The First War of Independence,” depending on who’s talking), a direct result of the racist and exploitative policies of the British East India Company, India was annexed by Britain as its colony in 1858, and Delhi was declared the capital of the Raj in 1911. The last (at least for the time being) of Delhi’s cities to be built,
New Delhi
took shape between 1911 and 1933. Designed by the British imperialist architects Lutyens and Baker, New Delhi’s major buildings have a simple, almost brutal classicism and are considered the finest artifacts of the British Empire, their sheer scale symbolizing its fascist ideals. But again Delhi was lost to her rulers, and in 1947 India’s first democratically elected prime minister was sworn into power. The bungalows of New Delhi became home to Indian masters. Ever a city of paradoxes, Delhi’s jubilation was tinged with tragedy, for this was also for many the demise of ancient Delhi: With the division (“Partition”) of the subcontinent into India and Pakistan, bloody street battles between Hindu and Muslim broke out, leading to the wide-scale immigration of Delhi’s urbane Muslim population to Pakistan, and to an even bigger, reverse influx of Punjabis from what is now Pakistan. Primarily farmers, but with a reputation for hard work and business acumen, the Punjabi immigrants effectively doubled the population of Delhi and forever changed its image of itself as a birthplace of civilization. As William Dalrymple describes it in City of Djinns, Delhi—“grandest of grand old aristocratic dowagers”—had become “a nouveau-riche heiress: all show and vulgarity and conspicuous consumption.” But if one thing is constant, it is Delhi’s ability to reconstitute itself. Indeed, with fierce development in the adjunct metropolitan areas of Gurgaon and Noida, a rapidly expanding Metro system, and a stringent plan in place to drastically develop the city’s infrastructure ahead of the 2010 Commonwealth Games, there are signs that Delhi’s desire is to become a city of the future, molded along capitalist ideals and increasingly in line with Western expectations for a high-yield international hub. And, with pressure from the Supreme Court, local government has been consistently installing an ever-tightening schedule of laws designed to gentrify and unclog the city of cows, beggars, illegal businesses, and pollution-spewing vehicles. One can only hope that Delhi’s historic heartbeat will not be lost in the process.

ESSENTIALS

VISITOR INFORMATION
To pick up a free map of Delhi or to get up-to-date information on sights, city tours, and taxi/rickshaw prices, head for the
India Tourism Office
at 88 Janpath (near Connaught Place;
011/2332-0005
or -0008;
www.incredibleindia.org
; Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–2pm). You will also find Government of India Tourist offices at both airports (open 24 hr.). Do not confuse these with so-called “government authorized” tourist offices, which are not authorized by anyone and are very adept at fleecing the unsuspecting. You will find these fakes particularly along Janpath and at the New Delhi railway station; make sure you seek assistance only at 88 Janpath or from one of the recommended tour operators (see below). If you intend to travel anywhere during your sojourn in India by train, you may choose to make all your reservations in Delhi (though these are just as easily available in other big cities). You can make bookings at the helpful Indian Railways Counter at the airport or any of the reservation counters in the city. Alternatively, for information, visit the
Delhi Tourism and Transport Development Corporation
(
DTTDC;
18A D.D.A SCO Complex, Defence Colony;
011/2464-7005
or 011/2336-5358;
www.delhitourism.nic.in
; Mon–Sat 9:30am–6pm), or see “Getting There: By Train,” below.

GETTING THERE
By Air
Most major international airlines operate in what is one of the best-connected cities in south Asia. Delhi has separate domestic and international airports that lie 8km (5 miles) apart; a free hourly shuttle bus runs between them.
Tip:
During high inflow periods the shuttle times may be increased but bear in mind that, should you merely be in transit ie arriving at international terminal and due to connect with a domestic flight somewhere in India, you will have to factor in enough time to wait for this shuttle bus to transfer you. Alternatively, make sure you have enough time to draw money from an ATM and catch a cab between the two terminals; cost is around Rs 250. Also, note that the domestic airport has two terminals, 1A and 1B, also connected by free shuttle bus; check which one you need to be at before leaving.
Indira Gandhi International Airport
(
011/2560-2000;
www.delhiairport.com
) lies 20km (12 miles) southwest of Connaught Place (the city center), 40 minutes to an hour away. The cheapest way (but one to be avoided) to get into town is to catch a State Transport bus (Rs 50 plus luggage fee), but if you’ve just crossed time zones you’ll want to opt for a taxi: Choosing, let alone negotiating with, a taxi driver is likely to make your head spin, so we recommend you prebook with
Easycabs
(
011/4343-4343;
www.easycabs.com
). You can do this on their website; the driver will wait for you in case of flight delay, though waiting charges are applicable. If you don’t want to prebook, find the Easycab counter at the airport where you can pay on pre-paid basis by cash or credit card; rates range from Rs 300 to Rs 600 for rides from the airport to the main hotels in town. If you want to do it for less it’s best to book a taxi at the official
prepaid taxi kiosk
(just outside the arrivals hall; ask for directions, and don’t be sidelined by those who claim they will take you at the same price). It offers fixed rates, with a small fee for each piece of large luggage, but expect to pay between Rs 200 and Rs 300 (25% more from 11pm–5am); these government-monitored cabs are not in as good condition as the private companies. Note that if you’ve just arrived in India, it’s not worthwhile to hire an auto-rickshaw; they may be cheaper than taxis, but they’re very slow and bound to be uncomfortable if you’re burdened with luggage—plus, you will almost certainly be pressured into handing over more money even if the price has been discussed upfront. You can of course ask your hotel to arrange the transfer, though this will more than likely double the price (we’ve included these in reviews of recommended accommodations throughout); some room categories at upmarket chains include chauffeured transfers in the rate. Note that you can change money at the international airport at the State Bank of India or Thomas Cook counters (both 24 hr.).