India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (317 page)

Sand Castle in Peril

The oldest living fort in history is literally crumbling and as a result has been listed on the World Monument Fund’s Most Endangered Sites. The ancient bantonite sandstone structure is exhibiting very real signs of an imminent collapse—with its external walls saturated with dark wet stains, seepage from lack of drainage systems and a direct result of tourism activity inside the fort itself (excessive water and sewerage use); one can already see areas which have crumbled and are undergoing repair work. In 1998 six people died when an exterior wall collapsed, which was followed by a number of its bastions in 2000 and 2001. Once merely a small village consisting of a handful of tiny dwellings and home to only the fort inhabitants, lack of regulation and legislation, and demand, has seen unchecked development with close to 40 hotels crammed into the tiny historic space. And it’s not only the structure that is being destroyed: the ambience and history is now covered with rank commercialism—rows of fabric and textiles cover the beautiful sandstone walls, Thai fishermen’s pants and signs for Tibetan restaurants fill the winding, cobbled alleyways, discarded plastic bottles and litter accumulate in every corner, while you are constantly requested to “just look.” The
pols
are lined with reclining touts and the families who live in the fort, most who do not have associated business interests with it, are becoming increasingly irate with the situation. In fact more and more of the young families have decided to make their homes outside the fort due to cultural pressures, lack of space, and the inability to continue their lives undiluted by tourism. This is not the Jaisalmer to which people have traveled from all over the world, and then across the Thar Desert to find; nor is it the one that will provide its inhabitants with a sustainable income or historical legacy. Its beautiful honeycombed fort, the nectar of this desert flower city, is in danger of being ruined on every level (structural, experiential, and cultural) and it is for this reason that we have
not
included any accommodation or restaurant reviews inside the fort, choosing rather to focus on the ample range of lodgings and dining outside this ancient endangered sandcastle.

An international campaign, Jaisalmer in Jeopardy (JiJ), has been established to facilitate repair and maintenance work for the fort. It has upgraded homes, implemented drainage and sewage infrastructure among other fortifying work. For the past 10 years, and at the time of writing, the authorities have made regular assessments and have concluded that the best solution in the interests of preservation would be to shut down the hotels and restrict tourism activities. Of course when people’s livelihoods are affected it is a political football and a sensitive and emotional subject.

If you’d like to contribute in any way contact JiJ (
020/352-4336;
www.jaisalmer-in-jeopardy.org
).

The Gateway Hotel, Rawalkot, Jaisalmer
A smaller (only 31 units) and arguably quieter and more peaceful option than the next-door Fort Rajwada, this Taj property, geared more for the independent traveler than groups, is wonderfully laid out with natural stone and a sense of scale and proportion that makes its neighbor appear cumbersome and unwieldy. The attractive dining room serves signature
Laal Maas
and
Bajra and Sogra,
and opens out onto a lovely courtyard that includes a perfect pool which has a stunning view of the fort in the distance. In fact, this is the best pool in Jaisalmer and is for residents only. The rooms are a bit affected for a new Gateway property.

Jodhpur-Jaisalmer Rd., Jaisalmer 345 001, Rajasthan.
0299/225-1874
or -252-638. Fax 0299/225-0444.
www.thegatewayhotels.com
. [email protected]. 32 units. Rs 6,500 suite; Rs 800 extra bed. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; babysitting; doctor-on-call; pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV.

Nachana Haveli
This is by far the best heritage option in the city, and particularly good if you’re young at heart and want to hang with Jaisalmer’s friendly and hip elite. Almost 3 centuries old, this atmospheric mansion (next door to the royal palace) has seen better days, but it has real character and charm, with 13 individually styled rooms (we like room nos. 111 and 107; and no. 112 is quite lovely). The family run hotel is the brainchild of Vikram, the globe-trotting son of the Maharaja of Nachana and cousin of Jaisalmer’s own king. He’s a bit of a collector, so all spaces are decorated with eclectic paraphernalia; the vaulted ground-floor lounge, in particular, feels like a motley family museum. Vikram’s younger brother, Shakti, arranges unique desert experiences for you, provided you give him sufficient warning (see “Camel Safari,” above) while their beautiful sister Divya will pick out something perfect for you from her boutique. At press time, Vikram was planning an underground lounge bar and rooftop pool, both welcome prospects.
Note:
As with most hotels, rates are increased by Rs 1,000 during the Desert Festival. Saffron rooftop restaurant serves typical Rajasthani cuisine from an open kitchen specializing in a variety of tandoori kebabs and their signature organic
lal maas
.

Hotel Nachana Haveli Goverdhan Chowk, Jaislamer 345001
02992/25- 2110,
-5565. Fax 02992/25-1910.
www.nachanahaveli.com
. [email protected]. 12 units. Rs 3,000 deluxe double; Rs 4,000 suite, Rs 700 extra bed. Rates include all meals and drinks except imported liquor and champagne and includes village safari. Taxes extra. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; rooftop dining; bar; bird-watching; concierge; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; Internet free; room service; safaris, jeep, horse, and camel. In room: A/C, fan, Wi-Fi in some (free).

Rang Mahal
The newest property in Jaisalmer and arguably the fanciest, and offering relatively good value, this modern, mediaeval styled hotel has ambitiously developed over 150 rooms in anticipation of the new airport. Set around beautiful gardens and a large, clean pool the rooms are the most luxurious in Jaisalmer (ask for a pool facing deluxe or suite) and even come with flatscreen TVs in the marbled bathrooms. It has a pool bar, a billiard table, and its comfortable a la carte restaurant (the dining hall is rather large and faceless) serves reliable local and Continental fare. For those looking for modern brand-new comforts, and it being closer to town than the two options below, and with eager-to-please management and really good rooms, our vote is split between this and the Gateway above.