India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (314 page)

Umaid Bhawan Palace, Jodhpur 342 006.
0291/251-0101.
Fax 0291/251-0100.
www.tajhotels.com
. 75 units. Rs 40,000 palace double; Rs 83,000 historical suite; Rs 140,000 royal suite; Rs 300,000 grand royal suite—Maharaja; Rs 500,000 grand presidential suite Maharani. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
3 restaurants; bar; smoking lounge/reading room; airport transfers from Rs 500; billiards room; cinema; concierge; doctor-on-call; DVD library; gym; health club; Internet (as below); outdoor pool; indoor pool; room service; spa; marble squash court; tennis. In room: A/C, TV, CD/DVD player, hair dryer, minibar, personal butler, Wi-Fi (30 mins Rs 125; 1 hour Rs 200; 2 hours Rs 300; 3 hours Rs 600).

Outskirts of Jodhpur

Mihir Garh
As you canter through the Thar Desert on your Marwari horse you start to make out the crenellated ramparts of the regal and perfectly proportioned Mihir Garh, “Fortress of the Sun,” home—hopefully for more than a day. Like a mirage that rises from the surrounding savanna, this natural mud fort, finished with Jaisalmer desert sand, is surrounded by the space and peacefulness that only the desert brings. Catching the breeze blowing off the plains and surrounded by natural vegetation of indigenous trees, shrubs and local crops, the nine well-appointed suites, all with plunge pools or Jacuzzis, and with spacious bathrooms (bathtubs and walk-in showers) command sweeping views over the savanna and are exquisitely decorated with a nod to the local vernacular. Private terraces extrude tastefully where you can watch the sunset, practice yoga, dine privately or sleep under the stars. This is a special place, and one that demands at least 2 full nights to drink it all in, participate in the unique activities, and experience the beauty, peace, and culture of the local Marwari in their natural surroundings.

Mihir Garh
02936/268531.
Fax 02936/268331.
www.mihirgarh.com
. Rs 24,000 suite. Rates include all meals and drinks excluding imported liquor and champagne and includes village safari. Taxes extra. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; bird-watching by bicycle or horse; concierge; cooking demonstrations and classes; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; Internet (Rs 150/hr.); royal picnic lunch; pool; room service and in-room dining; safaris—jeep, horse, and camel (Mihir Garh hosts an annual horse show, showcasing the Marwari horses); spa; village safaris; yoga. In room: A/C, Jacuzzi or plunge pools and fireplaces in all rooms.

Rohet Garh
Professionally run by its aristocratic owner, Sidharth Singh, Rohet Garh may be a tad far from Jodhpur, but the rural peace is intoxicating—peacocks lazily strut on the lawns and pose on the rooftops, while the adjacent village makes for great exploration without the hassle of wandering the streets of the city. It also has a lovely pool in the central courtyard, from which you can access the dining room, serving good-quality Rajasthani food (try the barbecued meats and dal makhani). Rooms, as is always the case with heritage properties, vary dramatically (ask to see what’s available when you arrive), but all are relatively spacious, featuring frescoes and Rajasthani antiques in bright, minimalist arrangements. Book the most recently renovated rooms (nos. 6 and 7) though these are around the pool, so are not that private (for more privacy, ask for no. 15 or 30). Room 27 is especially large, with a big shower and a huge carved bed, and has (along with other lake-view suites) a lovely window seats for lazing about with a good book. A couple of the rooms have direct views into the stables, where there are 12 Marwar steeds. Outings include visits to traditional Bishnoi villages; if you have the time, ask about the miniature paintings workshops or sign up for a cooking class.

Note:
Also available for travelers with a greater sense of adventure are six luxury tents (Rs 11,500 double, including all meals, evening tea, and village safari), pitched in the desert, 17km (11 miles) away. The tents are a great extension of the activities available at Rohet, and if you are doing the village safari on horseback and stopping for a royal picnic lunch at a small lake you should consider completing your day out in the countryside and stay the night. The campsite offers deep tranquillity, and phenomenal stargazing (though Madonna and her entourage, who stayed for 2 nights, have since left!)

Rohet Garh, Vill P.O. Rohet, District Pali, Rajasthan 306 401.
02936/268-231
or reservations in Jodhpur 0291/243-1161. Fax 0291/264-9368.
www.rohetgarh.com
. 34 units. Rs 5,000 deluxe double; Rs 7,000 suite. Taxes extra. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar/lounge; bird-watching by bicycle; cooking demonstrations; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; health club; Internet (Rs 150/hr.); pool; room service; safaris—jeep, horse, and camel. In room: A/C, fan.

SHOPPING

Jodhpur is famous for its antiques dealers, most lining the road that runs between Ajit Bhawan and Umaid Bhawan. These can be prohibitively pricey, however, particularly when you factor in freight prices. Jodhpur is also good for tie-dye fabrics. The best bazaars are around Sojati Gate, Tripolia, Khanda Falsa, and Lakhara—the latter specializes in colorful
lac
bangles, which make great gifts. If you’re looking for more serious jewelry, head for Station Road. Traditional Jodhpur coats and riding breeches are now only made to order; ask your hotel to recommend a tailor.
Tip:
Beware of making any purchases in or around the fort, particularly if you are encouraged to do so by the local guides; not only will you be paying inflated prices for anything you buy, but guides are paid a hefty commission to get you to part with your cash.

The Liquid Lifeline

The environment of western Rajasthan is harsh, semidesert and receives very little rainfall. The region is infamous for its fragile and inhospitable eco-system characterized by sandy soils, scarce surface water, depleted groundwater supplies, sparse vegetation cover, low humidity and high transpiration. Drought is a common recurrence and has occurred for 43 out of the last 50 years. Its largely rural inhabitants depend on an agro-pastoral economy and operate in great uncertainty regarding rainfall and subsistence. The Indira Gandhi canal, one of the biggest projects in India was introduced to address this need in March 1958 and was finally completed in 1986. Commencing from the Harika Barrage, a few miles below the confluence of the Sutlej and Beas rivers in Punjab State, the canal runs south southwest in Punjab and Haryana and retracts most of Rajasthan for a total of 650km (404 miles). The canal has provided a guarantee of water from the Himalayas and while it is a life-giver that has changed the face of the Thar Desert and has checked its encroachment, it has consequently changed much of the conservation culture and farming methods in the area. This presumptuousness has also extended to the hospitality industry, so much so that the new 150-plus roomed hotels in Jaisalmer all have large bathtubs in the bathrooms with TV’s. Vote with your feet and at all times use water sparingly.

9 Jaisalmer

285km (177 miles) W of Jodhpur; 333km (206 miles) SW of Bikaner

Jaisalmer was founded by Rao Jaisal in 1156 as a substitute for his more vulnerable capital at Lodurva, making it the oldest “living” fortified city in Rajasthan. For many, a visit here is the start of an enduring romance. Located in the heart of the Thar Desert on the far western border of India (55km/34 miles from Pakistan), it was strategically positioned on one of the central Asian trade routes, and fortunes were made by the Rajputs and Jain merchants who levied enormous taxes on caravans laden with silks, opium and spices, particularly during the 14th and 16th centuries. In the 18th century, some merchants, wanting to expand their homes, moved out of the fort to settle on the plateau below. Much as in the Shekhawati region, the wealth generated by their taxes was used to decorate the havelis of these wealthy Jain businessmen. Where frescoes satisfied the Shekhawats, here power was expressed by the construction of mansions whose soft sandstone facades were embellished with intricate, almost lacelike carvings. These oft-photographed sandstone mansions are indeed breathtakingly beautiful, but it is Sonar Killa, literally “Golden Fort,” that makes it worth traveling this far west. It may not be as impressive or as clean as Jodhpur’s Mehrangarh Fort, but its charm lies in the fact that this is the world’s only inhabited medieval fort, its families living in homes they have colonized for more than 800 years. Unfortunately this charm is being eroded by the unchecked proliferation of hotels—with close to 40 at the last count.