India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (334 page)

Chharabra, Shimla 171 012.
1800/11-2030
toll-free reservations in India, or
0177/264-8585. Fax 0177/264-8686.
www.oberoihotels.com
. [email protected]. 85 units. Rs 22,500 premier double, Rs 24,500 premier mountain view double, Rs 40,500 deluxe suite, Rs 60,500 Lord Kitchener Suite. Rates exclude 10% tax. AE, DC, MC, V. No children under 12.
Amenities:
2 restaurants, bar, lounge; airport transfers (Rs 2,500 plus tax); archery; bikes and mountain-biking trails; billiards room; card room; concierge; croquet; DVD library; golf (at Naldehra); health club and spa; hiking trails; horseback riding; ice-skating rink (mid-Dec to mid-Mar); outdoor Jacuzzi; library; heated indoor pool; rafting; room service; tennis court (summer); yoga & meditation. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, butler, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 200/hr.; Rs 800/day).

Hole up in a Himalayan fortress

Shimla itself is not a particularly relaxing town, and unless you’re sequestered in one of the smart hotels, or able to splash out on the peaceable surrounds on offer at Wildflower Hall, it really doesn’t make too much sense to stick around. If you’ve got a car and driver, another fine option is
Nalagarh
(
01795/22-3179,
-3009, or -3667;
www.nalagarh.in
), a glorious white-and-blue palatial fort a few hours north of Shimla and one of the finest heritage properties in the state. Built in 1421, Nalagarh, surrounded by sprawling lawns, offers a degree of eccentricity coupled with enough period character that will ensure you don’t forget your stay. In terms of getting a feel for Himachal’s great outdoors, it’s a huge improvement on staying in Shimla itself, plus there’s the advantage of a gorgeous pool and Ayurvedic spa; staff arranges excursions to see local handicrafts being made or to look at havelis in nearby villages. Standard doubles cost Rs 2,700, and suites run Rs 3,000 to Rs 6,500; meals are extra.

WHERE TO DINE

Shimla has no dearth of dining options, but the town definitely suffers from a lack of quality specialty venues—most places tend to spread their bets in their attempt to satisfy the tastes of tourists, most of whom come from India’s cities. Of these bland, mostly anonymous joints, your best bet is probably
Baljee’s
(26 The Mall;
0177/265-2313
), where there’s plenty of choice (stick to the Indian dishes, though, unless you’re dead-set on a substandard burger or uninteresting Chinese), and the mix of diners provides decent entertainment. If you want to have a taste of a local specialty, then don’t miss the
aloo sabzi
and
poori
(potato curry with deep-fried pancakelike bread) at
Mehar Chand
(Lower Bazaar;
0177/265-3402
), which also sells Indian sweets. But, honestly, the only place in Shimla where you’ll find consistently spectacular and authentic Himachal specialties is at
The Restaurant
at the Cecil hotel (reviewed above)—the
baluchi raan
(tandoor roasted lamb leg flavored with mace, cardamom, and saffron) in particular is excellent, and there are eight different Himachali specialty dishes available per day.

Finally,
high tea
at Wildflower Hall is legendary—sample the local infusions along with traditional Irish tea brack bread—a baked reminder of the Raj, speckled with raisins and sultanas, steeped in Darjeeling tea, and served with unsalted butter and lemon curd. The restaurant at Wildflower is arguably the best in the state, where you can satisfy most cravings—everything, from traditional
Chaa gosht
(a Himachali preparation of baby lamb in yogurt) to delicious ravioli and risotto, is prepared with a masterful hand.

4 Kinnaur, Spiti & Lahaul

The arid, dust-covered, snowcapped slopes in the Indo-Tibetan regions of Kinnaur, Spiti, and Lahaul are the stuff adventurers’ dreams are made of, offering sublime mountainscapes, twisting roads, and fascinating Tibetan Buddhist communities with atmospheric
gompas
(monasteries). Negotiating the rough, drop-off ledges of the
Hindustan-Tibet Road
(bizarrely enough, known as “National Highway” 22) is an action-packed art in itself, and the impossible road is made all the more unnerving when buses, trucks, and jeeps headed in the opposite direction seem to appear out of nowhere. Although the spectacular scenery is undoubtedly the highlight of any trip through Kinnaur and Spiti, there are also marvelous monuments, including some of the world’s most intriguing Buddhist complexes (such as the World Heritage Site of
Tabo Monastery
in Spiti), as well as high-altitude villages that seem to cling to the sides of mountains or balance on the edges of sharp cliffs.

Kinnaur, Spiti & Lahaul

ESSENTIALS

VISITOR INFORMATION
Pick up information from the
tourism office in Shimla
(or Manali if you’re doing the trip in reverse), and make detailed inquiries regarding accessibility and weather developments. Ajay Sud, an ex-army captain and adventurer who together with Rajesh Ojha founded
Banjara Camps,
is one of the best sources of information, tips, and assistance in the Kinnaur region. He’s also a very experienced trekker and can give great advice and suggestions for treks throughout the Himalayas. He and the equally helpful Rajesh take turns manning the Sangla camp; best to reach either through the
head office
(1A Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi 110 016;
011/2686-1397;
fax 011/2685-5152;
www.banjaracamps.com
).