India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (358 page)

There are also two special monasteries worth highlighting here and the first is strikingly photogenic
Diskit Gompa
, now marked by a newly created gigantic golden Buddha posing on the hilltop nearest the road. Reached via a maze of stairways, Diskit is populated by some very friendly, charming monks, many of whom have studied extensively and are happy to share their knowledge and insights with interested visitors. In the
Protector’s Room
you’ll see some very severe stucco figures, most with their faces covered (these are revealed only during the festival held here in Oct), as well as myriad
thangkas
and tantric drawings—it’s like stepping into a frozen moment in a Tibetan opera. At the front of the temple, a white-faced demon holds in his hands the skull and hand of a Mongolian warlord who came here some 350 years ago; ask the monk on duty to tell you the full story.

Along the other arm of the Valley, en route to Panamik, the
Samstanling Monastery
just above the pleasant village of Sumur may feel a little too modern and pagoda-like to strike you as an authentic stop, but the murals inside the assembly hall
(dukhang)
are exquisite, and the monastery has one very special surprise. This is where you can meet and receive a blessing from the recently discovered reincarnation of the great visionary lama Bakula Rinpoche. Barely 31⁄2 years old in July 2009, the young boy spends much of his time placing lengths of sacred thread on those who come to visit him (a small donation is appreciated). His private nursery, where he is also receiving training for the many life tasks that lie ahead of him, is just below the monastery’s parking area. It’s an enchanting, if little understood, encounter with an auspicious, enlightened soul.

Where to Stay

The best places to stay are in and around Sumur en route to Panamik, near the Samstanling Monastery; here there are three comfortable options, including
Hotel Yarab Tso
(
01980/22-3544
or 94-1934-2231; reservations in Leh: Mamosthong High Adventure Travels;
01982/25-2480
or 99-0698-6047; Rs 3,212 double, including all meals and service charge) just outside the village of Tegar (close to Sumur), along the Nubra River. It offers clean accommodations with attached Western bathrooms and a fairly lovely setting (rooms 105, 107, and 110 are best for views); the sitting room is particularly lovely, and feels just like a Ladakhi family lounge. In mid-2009, the owner was promising an imminent makeover of all the rooms (which have been feeling a bit run-down for some time now), so you can expect proper mattresses and fresh linens. Nearby, the newer (and somewhat more professional) option is
Hotel Rimo
(
94-1934-0747;
[email protected]) at the edge of Tegar village. It has more of a hotel feel to it and (besides being a very nasty-looking bit of construction), is unfortunately slap bang against the main road (which, of course, doesn’t see too much traffic). Bedrooms have attached bathrooms and rather better mattresses than most places, not to mention proper linens. Bookings can be made through Rimo Expeditions (details above); ask for a corner unit (which has more windows and better views) and expect to pay Rs 2,900 for a double room with all meals (Rs 1,200 without food).

A good deal better than both of these, and with more than a glimmer of charm, would be to stay at
Silk Route Bamboo Cottages
,
in a lush section of Sumur Village. They offer 14 cozy en suite cottages and five “Swiss” tents (a plush version of the basic canvas tent: spacious, carpeted, with good beds and bedding). A double room costs Rs 3,300 (plus 10% service charge) with all meals included (Rs 2,200 for just the room). Like most half-decent places in the Valley, it’s geared up for tour groups, so best to secure your cottage in advance—they’re bookable through The Mogol Hotel in Leh (
99-9009-4107,
94-1965-7333, or 99-9911-9435;
www.hotelmogol.com
; [email protected] or [email protected]).

Ladakh’s Jewel-Like Lakes

East of Leh are two stunning high-altitude lakes that can be visited on a 2- to 3-day jeep safari. The only way to visit these lakes, close to the sensitive border with Tibet, is to book though an agent who can organize everything, including travel, guides, basic accommodations in tents or a village, and special permits.
Pangong Tso
is a huge lake, a large chunk of which lies across the border in China (
Note:
There are practically no accommodations at the lake itself, so many prefer to return the same day—start, say by 5am for the 5- to 6-hr. one-way drive and return after a 3- to 4-hr. stay; back by late evening); farther south, surrounded by some of Ladakh’s highest peaks, is
Tso Moriri
—“mountain lake”—where the colors of the water are as lovely as the birds you’ll spot. On the shores of the lake, you’ll often see herds of wild ass—or kiang—grazing, and cheeky-looking marmots (yellow furry creatures resembling beavers) perch upon the rocks. Nestled in a valley of nomads, the lake is a summer migration stop for bar-headed geese (or
nangpa
), not to mention the Khampa, among the original people of Ladakh. Korzok village, on the northern tip of Tso Moriri, is the only place that has basic accommodation, in tents and guesthouses.