India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (400 page)

Gangkha, Martam, East Sikkim.
03592/20-3314.
[email protected]. 14 units (with showers). Rs 3,300 full-board double; Rs 2,500 single. Extra bed Rs 1,200. No credit cards.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; currency exchange. In room: Hot water, room heater, no phone.

Himalayan Brew

Chang,
made from fermented millet, is the brew of choice in Sikkim. It’s usually served in a wooden tumbler (a tomba) with a bamboo straw and should look like a small mountain of chestnut-colored caviar sprinkled with a few grains of rice. Believed to aid sleep, it supposedly never causes hangovers. Many Western travelers would disagree. The locals advise you to not gulp it but let it sit as long as possible in the tomba, thereby allowing it to get stronger.

PELLING & ENVIRONS

Traditionally a stopover for trekkers headed for Yoksum, Dzongri, and similar high-altitude spots in western Sikkim, Pelling has begun to establish itself as a tourist destination in its own right, and as a result, concrete lodges have sprung up indiscriminately to cash in on the passing trade. Nevertheless, the surrounding scenery is spectacular, and the sunrise behind snow-clad Khangchendzonga will leave you breathless. Besides hiking or rafting, the top attractions are the nearby monasteries. From Pelling, a pleasant 30-minute walk along the main road toward Geyzing will lead you to one of Sikkim’s oldest and most revered monasteries,
Pemayangtse
(entry Rs 5; daily 7am–4pm), situated at 2,085m (6,672 ft.) in a cliff-top forest clearing. Set up as a monastery for
Ta-Sang,
or “pure monks” of the Nyingmapa order, Pemayangtse was established in 1705 by Lhatsun Chempo, one of the lamas who performed the consecration ritual of Sikkim’s first king. Its prized treasure is a 7m-tall (22-ft.) wooden depiction of Guru Rinpoche’s
Sang-tok-palri,
or “heavenly palace,” encased in glass in the monastery’s upper room. Note that it’s worth trying to contact Yapo S. Yongda, who resides here—he’s a fascinating source of information on Sikkimese history.

Southeast of Pemayangtse (30-min. walk), on a lower hillock, are the ruins of the late-17th-century
Rabdentse Palace
, from where you can see
Tashiding Monastery
, one of the most idyllic, peaceful, and sublime monasteries in India. Hire a jeep from Pelling to get here (Rs 1,400 round-trip). A mere glance at Tashiding’s
Thongwa Rangdol,
Sikkim’s most venerated
chorten,
will (if Buddhist legends are to be believed) absolve you of all your sins. Also of special significance is the
bhumpa,
a copper vase that contains the holy water used each year during the
Bhumchu
festival, when a sacred ritual reveals Sikkim’s fate for the upcoming year. It’s a somewhat stiff 50-minute hike in the opposite direction to hilltop
Sanga Choling Monastery
—but it’s worth it, for the most panoramic views around. Constructed in 1697, this is believed to be the second-oldest Buddhist monastery in Sikkim. Go when morning or evening prayers are held. For more information on the region, call the
Tourism Information Office
at
94-3463-0876.
There is, however, one more optional stopover for those with more time to explore—2 hours south of Pelling is the small town of Rinchenpong—worth including just so you can overnight at
Yangsum Farm
(reviewed below).

Where to Stay & Dine

With basics like electricity and water in short supply, don’t expect luxury in Pelling. The town is spilling over with tour and travel agents, many of whom are quite suspect in their dealings—single women travelers would do well to be cautious and use only accredited travel agents, based preferably in Gangtok. Aside from Norbu, the best place to stay is newly opened
The Mount Pandim
, set atop a hill, with the most terrific views of the mighty Kanchenjunga, and a 10-minute amble distance from the Pemayangtse Monastery (and 30 min. from the Rabdentse Ruins). The hotel had only just opened at press time, but guest rooms and facilities are in keeping with the Elgin chain of hotels: comfortable and positively luxurious when compared with your other options. Try to reserve deluxe room no. 203 (
03595/25-0756
or -0273;
www.elginhotels.com
; doubles Rs 5,100, include all meals). If you’re keen on the homestay experience, your best bet is the delightful Yangsum, a working farm reviewed below, near the village of Rinchenpong. If you want to be based in Pelling itself (and you’re watching your rupees), a good budget option is
Hotel Phamrong
(Upper Pelling;
03595/25-8218
or -0660;
www.sikkimhotelphamrong.com
; doubles from Rs 1,400–Rs 2,850), which have large en-suite rooms that generally come with fantastic views. Don’t expect luxury, but the sunrises are brilliant. Pelling’s best dining is at the Norbu Ghang Resort (see below), but the restaurant at tiny
Garuda
guest lodge (next door to Hotel Phamrong) serves a solid selection, including Tibetan and Sikkimese specialties.