Indonesia, Etc.: Exploring the Improbable Nation (61 page)

garlic, ban on imported, 214

gas, 123, 178

Gaura, 69, 72–3, 79, 81

Gebe island, 185

Geertz, Clifford, 371

General Santos, 211–12

gengsi
(showing off), 192, 197

ginger, 11, 178, 350–1

gold, 18, 178, 224, 229, 288, 293

Golkar party, 49

government, five levels of, 35

GPK (
Gerakan Pengacau Keamanan
), 222–4

Grasberg mine, 178

gula aren
(aren palm sugar), 351–3

Gunung Api volcano, 166–7

Gunung Kemukus, 323–7, 338, 368

Gunung Kidul, 362

Gus Dur (Abdurrahman Wahid), 49, 52

Habibie, B. J., 48–9, 123

Halmahera, 182–4, 187–9, 299, 350

Haloban, 259–65

Hamengkubuwono IX, Sultan, 356

Hatta, Mohammad, 21–4

Hermanus, Pak, 139

Hindu courts, 13, 89

Hinduism, 13, 315

HIV, 5, 50–1, 261, 295, 373

Holidi, Ishak, 281

honey trees, 278–9

Human Rights Commission, 330, 360

hyperinflation, 163

Ibraham, Nazaruddin, 220, 233–41, 332

Ibu-Ibu
women, 34–5, 50–2

Idi Cut, 242–3

ikat
fabrics, 63, 78, 127, 132, 147, 316

Ince, Mama, 146–7, 149, 299

India, 10, 12, 42

indigo, 293

independence, Indonesian, 2, 9, 22–7, 230, 348, 378

Indonesian Broadcasting Commission, 319

Indonesian Chamber of Commerce, 357

Indonesian language, 12, 21, 62, 104–6, 115, 269n

infrastructure, 212–13, 349

Institute of Dayakology, 294, 296

Integrated Pest Management, 46

International Herald Tribune
, 313

internet cafes, 313, 321

Irian Jaya,
see
Papua

Islam, 318–42

army and, 27, 331

and elections, 333–7, 341–2

introduction of, 13, 287

Javanese, 322–7

and nationalist movement, 22–3

and religious minorities, 337–42

rise in modern Indonesia, 327–33

Islamic extremism, 52, 299, 314, 321

Islamic Moon and Star Party, 341

Jacob, Pak, 154–7

Jakarta

brothels, 320, 331

celebrity preachers in, 318

election for governor, 333–7

flooding, 349, 372

former city hall, 46–7

Glodok (Chinatown), 47–8

Marriott Hotel bombings, 314

Menteng district, 32, 42, 334, 337

modernization, 29–31, 53, 216–17, 219–20, 328

nationalism in, 22

population, 29–30

port, 320, 346

and rise of Islam, 328–33

student movement, 5, 47, 330–1

Tanah Tinggi district, 334–7, 340

traffic jams, 30, 108, 272, 372

Jakarta Stock Exchange, 43

Jambi, 319

jamu
(traditional medicine), 102, 267

Japan, surrender of, 9, 23

Japanese, 93, 184, 308n

occupation of Indonesia, 9–10, 23

Java

British occupation, 101

business in, 351–3

Chinese immigrant traders, 287–8

churches burned in, 300

collectivism, 361–7, 372–6, 378

Dutch colonization, 18, 288, 230

hierarchical culture, 345, 355–8, 371

Hindu courts, 89

and independence, 23–4, 26–7

infrastructure, 349

Marco Polo and, 11

modernization, 371–22

population, 3, 123

religion in, 13, 321–7

and transmigration, 36–7

volcanoes, 175

Javanese colonialism, 3–4, 34–7, 41, 45, 227, 362, 372

Javanese language, 105, 288, 355–6

Javanese rulers, 13, 17, 290

Jayapura, 154, 157, 230

jilbabs
(headscarves), 114–15, 146, 315, 322–3, 329

and Aceh regulations, 221, 232–3

as fashion items, 319–20

increased wearing of, 48, 327

Jokowi (Joko Widodo), 334, 336–7

Jongky (tuna fisherman), 204–6, 209, 211

Jopy, Pak, 150–2, 166

justice system, 19–20, 307–10

kaki lima
(‘five feet’) carts, 101

Kalimantan

Chinese immigrant traders, 287–8

cuisine, 301–2

dance competition, 305–6

Dutch colonization, 288

ethnic complexity, 284

ethnic conflict in, 293–8, 300, 305

geography, 283–4

illegal logging, 153n

longhouses, 35, 303–4

population and diversity, 284

Kalla, Jusuf, 329

Kampung Inggris
(Englishtown), 367–71

Kapaus, river, 301

Kei islands, 143–66, 190

Kelimutu volcano, 94–6

keluarga besar
(‘clan’), 150–1

Ketapang, 339–41

kinship terms, 75–6

Kisar island, 90, 139–40

Kodi, 67

Koran-reading contests, 318–19

KPK (Commission for the Eradication of Corruption), 309

kreteks
(clove cigarettes), 43–4

Kupang, 75–6, 117, 128–31, 135–6, 141

Kurahaba, 73

Lady Gaga, 328–9, 331, 337

Lamalera, 118–19, 125, 186, 205

Lampung, 300

land ownership, 348–9

Langsa, 231–2, 252

languages, 2, 12, 104–6

see also
Indonesian language; Javanese language

Laskar Jihad, 52, 299

Lee Kuan Yew, 372

legal classification system, 308n

legal system
see
justice system

Lelilef, 183–4, 190–3, 196–7, 199–200

Lembata, 114–15, 117–22, 125

leprosy, 289

Lewoleba, 125

Lhokseumawe, 220, 224, 233–41, 253, 332

Lina, Mama, 106–15, 198

Liran island, 137, 140–1

literacy, 159

litter, 373–4

logging, illegal, 153n

see also
deforestation

Loli language, 59, 61

Lombok, 100, 214

religious conflict in, 338–42

Lonthor, 167

Luwuk, 180

MacArthur, General Douglas, 184

machetes, 68

McKinsey Global Institute, 200

Madura, 102, 284, 294–6, 305, 327, 338

Madurese, 294–7, 300, 305

Mahathir, Mohammad, 372

Majapahit empire, 24

Makassar, 18, 323

Makassarese, 102

Malay language, 105

Malays, 293–4, 297, 300

cuisine, 301–2

Malaysia, 89, 152, 284, 293, 372

Acehnese exiles in, 228

Indonesians in, 97–8, 112–13, 287, 303

Sukarno and, 26, 89, 113–14

malnutrition, 112, 118

Maluku

civil war, 52, 190

Dutch colonization, 16, 18

family ties in, 147

Moluccas, 298

Portuguese colonization, 14–15

poverty in, 127n

rebellion against Sukarno, 24

religious conflict in, 298–300, 314

separatism, 227

staple food, 177–8

volcanoes, 175

Manado, 208–9, 211, 216–17

Manaf, Muzakir, 226, 238

Manchester United FC, 19, 281, 318

Mandarin, 291–3

Manurung, Butet, 265, 268–9, 272, 275, 278

maps, land-use, 275

Marapu religion, 57, 59–61, 64, 315

marijuana, 223

marriage customs, 70–4, 76

marriage market, 286–7

massage parlours, 50

Mataram, 340

Mecca, pilgrimage to (hajj), 164–5, 322–3

Medan, 221, 226, 231–2, 251–2, 274

Megradjasa, Megaputri (Jenny), 347–9

Merauke, 34

merdeka
, 329n

middle classes, 30, 34, 98, 109, 190, 199–200, 213, 318–19, 328, 332–3, 337, 350, 371

migration, 97–102

Minangkabau, 99–100, 251, 326

Mini Indonesia (Taman Mini), 33–34, 61

minimum wage, 40–1, 43

mining companies, 184, 192–6, 199

Ministry of Agriculture, 164

Ministry of Health, 5, 30, 47, 112, 124, 165, 280, 315

Ministry of Religion, 165

missionaries, 57, 67, 94

Mitsubishi, 190n

Moerdani, Benny, 222

Mount Gamalama, 173

Mount Sinabung, 175

Muslim Brotherhood, 328, 332

nasi bungkus
(‘wrapped-up rice’), 100

nasi Padang, 99–102, 106, 198, 251, 276, 313

nation-building, under Suharto, 31–47

national anthem, 34, 338

national motto, 33

nationalism, pan-Indonesian, 113–14

nationalist movement, Indonesian, 21–3

native courts, 308–9

Netherlands East Indies, 17–18, 46, 97n, 225, 288, 346