Maximum Flavor: Recipes That Will Change the Way You Cook (31 page)

1 large
egg
, cold

½ teaspoon> 2 grams
vanilla extract

½ teaspoon> 2 grams
Aphrodite Bitters
(optional)

FILLING

¼ cup packed> 53 grams
light brown sugar

¼ cup> 50 grams
granulated
sugar

1 tablespoon> 6 grams
tapioca starch

½ teaspoon> 3 grams
fine sea salt

4 large
eggs

¼ teaspoon> 1 gram
vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon> 1 gram
Aphrodite Bitters
(optional)

MAKE THE GINGER CRÈME FRAÎCHE:
At least 2 days before you plan to make the tart, stir together the cream, buttermilk, and ginger. Store in a covered container at room temperature for 48 hours, until the crème fraîche has thickened. Strain out the ginger. The ginger crème fraîche may be stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

MAKE THE CRUST:
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Coat a 10-inch (25 cm) tart pan with cooking spray and wipe it out with a paper towel, leaving a thin film on the pan.

In a food processor, combine the flour, dark brown sugar, and salt and pulse to blend. Add the butter and pulse 3 or 4 times to blend. In a small bowl, use a fork to whisk together the egg, vanilla, and bitters, if using. Add to the food processor and pulse until the mixture forms coarse crumbs. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter and press it together into a disc about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Lightly dust the top with flour and roll out the dough into a 12-inch (30 cm) round. Transfer the dough to the pan and gently press it into the bottom and up the sides. Run the rolling pin over the top of the pan to trim off any excess.

Line the tart shell with parchment paper and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake the tart shell for 15 minutes and remove the pie weights. Bake until the crust is set and dry, 5 more minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes at room temperature.

Reduce the oven temperature to 250°F (120°C).

MAKE THE FILLING:
In a medium bowl, whisk together the light brown sugar, granulated sugar, tapioca starch, and salt. Add the ginger crème fraîche and whisk. Add the eggs, vanilla, and bitters, if using, and whisk just until smooth. Pour the filling into the cooled tart shell and bake for 50 minutes, until the custard is just set and still slightly wobbly in the center.

Remove the pan from the oven and let cool at room temperature for 30 minutes. Put the tart in the refrigerator and chill for at least 3 hours before serving. The tart will keep, covered in the refrigerator, for up to 5 days.

PRETZEL CARAMEL TART

ONE DAY WE WERE DEBATING THE RELATIVE MERITS OF COOKIE
crusts when we happened to notice a bag of pretzels on the counter. Like a bolt of lightning this pretzel crust was born, the perfect crunchy-salty match for a silky-sweet caramel tart—which made us think of candy bars, of course. The resulting tart has swirls of milk and
dark chocolate ganache to make a show-stopping dessert.

MAKES ONE 10-INCH / 25 CM TART

CRUST

Nonstick cooking spray

2 cups> 140 grams finely ground
pretzel crumbs

1 cup minus 2 tablespoons> 130 grams
all-purpose flour

11½ tablespoons> 160 grams
unsalted butter,
at room temperature

⅓ cup packed> 75 grams
light brown sugar

⅓ teaspoon> 2 grams
fine sea salt

CARAMEL

2¼ cups> 450 grams
sugar

1 cup> 225 grams
water

1⅓ cups> 325 grams
heavy cream

½ teaspoon> 3 grams
fine sea salt

8 ounces> 225 grams
unsalted butter,
diced

DARK CHOCOLATE GANACHE

1 cup minus 2 tablespoons> 200 grams
heavy cream

7 ounces> 200 grams
dark chocolate (63 to 68% cacao)

¼ teaspoon> 1.5 grams
fine sea salt

MILK CHOCOLATE GANACHE

⅓ cup> 75 grams
heavy cream

2.6 ounces> 75 grams
milk chocolate

⅛ teaspoon> 0.75 gram
fine sea salt

MAKE THE CRUST:
Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Coat a 10-inch (25 cm) tart pan with a removable bottom with cooking spray and put it on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

Whisk together the pretzel crumbs and flour until well blended and set aside. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, brown sugar, and salt until the mixture is light and fluffy. Stop the mixer and add all of the pretzel-flour mixture. Mix on low until well combined. The mixture will resemble damp sand. Use the bottom of a measuring cup to press an even layer along the sides and on the bottom of the pan. Bake until golden brown and fragrant, 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool to room temperature while you make the caramel.

MAKE THE CARAMEL:
In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar and water and set over medium-high heat, stirring gently just to dissolve the sugar. Bring to a boil without stirring and let the sugar continue to boil until it turns an amber color, swirling the pot occasionally if needed, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and tilt the pot away from you as you slowly pour in the cream and add the salt. Gradually stir in the butter. Pour the caramel into the tart pan and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to set.

MAKE THE DARK CHOCOLATE GANACHE:
Put the cream in a small saucepan, set over medium heat, and bring to 167°F (75°C) on a candy thermometer, just below a simmer. Add the dark chocolate and salt and turn off the heat. Whisk until the chocolate is fully melted and the ganache is thick and smooth. Set aside, stirring occasionally while you make the
milk chocolate ganache.

MAKE THE MILK CHOCOLATE GANACHE:
Put the cream in a small saucepan, set over medium heat, and bring to 167°F (75°C) on a candy thermometer, just below a simmer. Add the milk chocolate and salt and turn off the heat. Whisk until the chocolate is fully melted and the ganache is thick and smooth.

Pour the dark chocolate ganache over the caramel, tilting the pan to spread it entirely across the top in an even layer. Let cool for 10 minutes at room temperature. Drizzle the milk chocolate ganache over the dark chocolate layer, warming it up slightly in the microwave, if necessary. Chill the tart in the refrigerator until it is cold and set, at least 3 hours. Slice and serve chilled.

SPICED PUMPKIN PIE

PUMPKIN PIES CAN BE KIND OF BLAND AND ONE-NOTE: SWEET
and squashy. In this recipe, the pastry crust and crunchy streusel topping make an appealing textural contrast to the creamy pumpkin filling. The addition of raw sugar, which doesn’t melt when baked, gives it a wonderful sandy texture that is fun to eat with the creamy pumpkin filling. And while traditional pumpkin pies are flavored with sweet spices, the North African spice blend ras el hanout has so much more to offer in their place; this haunting blend of sweet and savory spices is the perfect match for the mellow flavor of pumpkin.

MAKES ONE 9-INCH / 25 CM TART

½ recipe
Pie Dough

FILLING

1 (15-ounce> 425-gram) can
organic pumpkin puree

1½ cups> 360 grams
heavy cream

¾ cup packed> 160 grams
light brown sugar

1 teaspoon> 6 grams
fine sea salt

½ teaspoon> 1 gram
ras el hanout

½ teaspoon> 1 gram
ground cinnamon

2 tablespoons> 12 grams
tapioca starch

2 large
eggs

1 large
egg yolk

STREUSEL TOPPING

½ cup> 75 grams
all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons packed> 26 grams
light brown sugar

2 tablespoons> 25 grams
raw sugar

¼ teaspoon> 0.5 gram
ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon> 1.5 grams
fine sea salt

4 tablespoons> 56 grams
unsalted butter,
diced, at room temperature

Preheat the oven to 450°F (235°C). Line a baking sheet with a silicone mat.

Roll the pie dough into a round 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter and line a 9-inch (23 cm) pie pan. Trim the edge so that there is a 1-inch (2.5 cm) overhang. Roll the overhang inward and tuck underneath the top edge so that it forms a log all the way around the pie pan. Crimp the edges by squeezing the dough gently between your thumb and forefinger, moving them all the way around the pan, and pierce the bottom a few times with a fork. Put the pie shell in the freezer while the oven preheats.

MAKE THE FILLING:
In a medium bowl, whisk together the pumpkin and cream until well blended but not frothy. In a small bowl, whisk together the brown sugar, salt, ras el hanout, cinnamon, and tapioca starch. Add the whole eggs and egg yolk and whisk to combine. Pour the egg mixture into the pumpkin mixture and stir with a rubber spatula until combined.

Once the oven is hot, take the pie shell from the freezer and put it on the lined baking sheet. Pour the filling into the pie shell and bake for 20 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (175°C) without opening the oven door. Bake for 10 more minutes.

MEANWHILE, MAKE THE STREUSEL:
In a medium bowl, combine the flour, sugars, cinnamon, and salt and stir well to blend. Add the butter to the mixture. Use your fingers or a fork to blend everything together until it forms a chunky, sandy mixture. Use immediately or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Open the oven door and gently sprinkle the streusel over the top of the pie. Return the pie to the oven and bake for 20 more minutes. The pie should be set and jiggly in the center when fully cooked, much like gelatin. If you prefer a darker streusel, you can lightly broil the top of the pie with the oven door open to brown it for about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and let cool on the counter or on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes before serving.

10

CRÈME FRAÎCHE CARAMELS

BORDEAUX-STYLE COOKIES

TOFFEE OATMEAL COOKIES

COFFEE SHORTBREAD

COCONUT KEFFELS WITH MEYER LEMON MARMALADE

WALNUT BRITTLE ICE CREAM

BANANA CARAMEL ICE CREAM

LEMON-GINGER ICE CREAM