No Way Down, Life and Death On K2 (2010) (27 page)

oxygen use, 83, 86

 

O'Connell, Jerome, 230n, 234n, 237n

O'Leary, Virginia, 230n, 234n, 235n blog, 235n

Overleven op de K2
(Van Rooijen), 234n

 

Pakistan

assistance to climbers, 8, 189, 203–4

military liaison officers on K2, 14

Panzeri, Mario, xviii, 208

Park Kyeong-hyo, xvi, 161

accident and death, 128–29, 142–43, 145, 151–55, 160, 169–70

Everest climb, 126

K2 descent, August 1–2, 125–26

Pasang Kikuli, 39

Pasang Kitar, 39

Pasang Lama, 35–36, 37, 38

“Perfect Chaos” (Wilkinson), 230n

Phinsoo, 39

Pius XII, Pope, 9

Planic, Iso, xvi, 12, 205

attempt to move Dren's body, 25–26, 29–30

death of Dren and, 21–22, 33

fall of Baig and, 31

K2 ascent, August 1, 17, 18–19

Pokharel, Tilak, 229n

Porik, Asghar Ali, 230n

Powers, Matthew, 230n

Powers, Phil, 230n, 233n

Puchoz, Mario, 8

 

radios, 98–99

“United Nations frequency,” 98

Rice, Nicholas, xvii, 23, 54, 174, 175, 230n, 231n, 232n, 233n, 235n, 237n

blog, 233–34n

Rinjing Sherpa, xvii, 207–8

 

Sabir, Nazir, 230n

Sangmu, Dawa, 75, 127, 128, 129, 170

Schoening, Pete, 93, 94–95

Sekkesaeter, Bjorn, 230n, 233n

Sella, Vittorio, 6

Selter, Andy, xvii, 230n, 237n

serac, xiii, xxii, xxiii, xxiv, xxvi, 12, 41, 42, 43, 57, 82, 86, 155, 156, 161, 167, 213

Serbian independent climber K2 2008 (Bite), xvii

Serbian K2 Vojvodina Expedition 2008, xv–xvi, 12–15

abandonment of Dren Mandic's body at 26,000 feet, 32

blog reports from, 232n

death of Dren Mandic, 20–22, 205

death of Jahan Baig, 30–31

departure from K2, 205

descent of Kahn, 17

descent of Shaheen Baig, 16

descent of Zagorac and Planic with corpse, 22, 25–26, 32

equipment brought by, 12

expedition report, Internet, 232n

food for, 14

HAPs with, 16, 17, 21

K2 ascent, August 1, 16–22

plate made for Dren Mandic, 206–7

porters forget food, 16

use of oxygen, 16–17

Shah, Sajjad, 136, 198, 210, 230n, 236n, 237n

Sheen, Mark, xv, 178–79

Sherpas.
See also
Jumik Bhote

Chhiring Bhote and family as, 106, 107, 127, 128

climbing without oxygen, 72

forgotten equipment and, xx–xxi

Mandic's fall and bad karma predicted by, 42

marketing rivalry with HAPs, 27, 42

with Norit Dutch expedition, 51

with South Korean climbers, 58–59

superstitions and gods of, 53

uneasiness, backup at Bottleneck, 12

unemployment in Nepal and, 127

on Weissner expedition, 35–39

Shimshal (village), 27

Shishapangma, 127

Siew Cheok Wai, Edwin, xviii

Singapore K2 Expedition 2008, xvii–xviii, 174

Skardu and military hospital, Pakistan, 12, 58, 62, 134, 189, 202, 204, 210, 237n

Skog, Cecilie, xv, 47–48, 70, 97, 218, 219, 230n, 231n, 232n, 233n, 234n, 236n, 237n

author's interview with, 218

in Base Camp, 137

clothing worn on August 1, 69

death of Rolf Bae and, 86–89, 161, 175, 192–93

departure from K2, 205

“devotion to the outdoors,” 218

Dren Mandic's fall and, 19–20

Everest climb, 47

fall on descent, 90

K2 ascent, August 1, 18, 19–20, 46–48, 60–61, 67–68, 72, 234n

K2 descent, August 1, 76–77, 82–83, 86–91

K2 descent, August 2, to Base Camp, 161, 171, 174–75

life after K2, 205

life with Rolf, 83–84

North and South Pole expeditions, 47, 205

previous K2 attempt, 46–47

return to Base Camp, 192–93, 237n

on summit, 69–71

snowblindness, 8, 200

Van Rooijen and, 141, 143, 146

Son Byung-woo, xvi

Song Gui-hwa, xvi

South Korean K2 Abruzzi Spur Flying Jump Expedition, xvi, 11, 233n

B team, 31–32, 44, 59

cook, Nawang, 204–5

departure from K2, 204–5, 237n

Jumik Bhote as Sherpa, 125–26, 127, 128, 142–43, 145, 151–55, 166–69

K2 ascent, August 1, 43–44, 57, 58

K2 descent, August 1–2, 100, 106–9, 119–21, 125–26, 131–32

K2 descent of remaining team, August 3, 197

as largest team, 44

missing climbers, 121, 128–29, 142–43, 145, 151–55, 235n

missing climbers, deaths of, 166–69, 200

nationalism of, 44

rope placement and, 223–24

Sherpas with, 16, 58–59, 69–71, 100, 105–9, 127, 128

sponsorship of, 71

on summit, 70, 71, 234n

use of oxygen, 44–45, 119

Srinagar, 6

Staleman, Jelle, xv, 51, 53, 230n, 233n, 236n, 237n

Stangeland, Oystein, xv, 91, 161

return to Base Camp, 192–93

Stangl, Christian, xxv–xxvi, xvii, xix–xxviii

Starkey, Annie, 50, 73, 134, 137, 215, 230n, 234n, 236n

disputed versions of McDonnell's death and, 221–22

Stavanger, Norway, xii

Strang, Fredrik, xvi, 23–33, 97–98, 104, 105, 211, 230n, 237n

activities of August 2, and descent to Base Camp, 159–64, 236n

climbing record sought by, 23

deaths of Mandic and Baig, effect of, 33

decision to turn back, xxv–xxvi, 231n

fall of Baig and, 31–32

film made by, 231n, 237n

K2 ascent, August 1, xix–xxv

K2 descent, August 1, xxvi

K2 descent, August 2, to Base Camp, 179, 189

rescue of Mandic attempted, 22–26, 28–30, 223, 232n

videos by, 23, 26, 161, 200–201

Sunny Mountain Chogori Expedition, xvii

 

Teler, Jacek, 234n

Three Cups of Tea
(Mortenson), 219

Trango Towers, 204

Trommsdorff, Christian, xvii, 230n

 

Urdukas, 6, 53

 

Van de Gevel, Cas, xv, 51–52, 53, 230n, 233n, 236n

in Base Camp, 134

bivouac on K2, 187, 191

condition of, after descent, 197, 200–201, 204

death of Hugues d'Aubarède and, 117–18, 176, 235n

evacuation from K2 by helicopter, 204, 237n

filming of Van Rooijen, 195

Gerard McDonnell and, 51, 236n

K2 ascent, August 1, 51

K2 descent, August 1–3, 2008, 111–13, 117–18, 196–97, 235n

Marco Confortola and, 77, 165, 169–70

return to Base Camp, August 3, 198–202

on summit, 72–73, 234n

Van Rooijen's rescue and, 149, 162, 163, 165, 170, 182, 186–89, 192, 194–97, 237n

Van de Walle, Mark, 236n

Van Eck, Maarten, 55, 73, 147, 230n, 233n, 234n

rescue of Van Rooijen and, 148, 180–81, 182, 183, 189, 236n, 237n

website, 174, 182, 189, 202

Van Oss, Roeland, xv, 51, 118, 173, 230n, 233n, 235n, 236n

departure from K2, 203–4, 206, 237n

K2 descent, August 1, 54

life after K2, 206

report on deaths, 189

search for missing climbers and, 162–63, 173–74, 179, 188, 237n

spotting of Van Rooijen, 181–82, 191, 237n

Van Rooijen, Heleen, 147–48, 149–50, 194

Van Rooijen, Wilco, xv, 12, 49–55, 115, 161, 177, 230n, 231n, 232n, 233n, 236n, 237n

above Camp Three, 191, 192

author and, 219–21

backpack left behind, 113

in Base Camp, 134

bivouacs on K2, 138–40, 184–85, 189, 236n

book by, 234n, 236n

clash with d'Aubarède, 54

clothing worn on August 1, 109, 181, 188, 237n

condition of, after descent, 195, 196, 197, 199, 200–201, 204, 219

dehydration of, 144, 195

effects of ordeal, 211

end of K2 climb, 197

evacuation from K2 by helicopter, 203–4, 237n

Everest climb, 49

finds corpses, 184

Gerard McDonnell and, 49–51, 54, 234n, 236n

GPS coordinates of satellite calls and, 180–81

K2 ascent, August 1, 18–19, 51, 55, 59, 60, 71–72, 233n

K2 descent and loss of way, August 1–3, 100, 118, 138–50, 179, 183–89, 193–97

as leader, 53–54

leaves Confortola and McDonnell, 140, 141–42, 151

loss of mental clarity, 147, 149, 185

missing South Korean climbers, Jumik Bhote, and, 142–43, 145, 235n

previous K2 attempts, 12, 49–50

rescue, 194–97

return to Base Camp, August 3, 198–202

satellite phone (Thuraya), calls for help, 146–48, 149–50, 162, 177, 183, 194

search for, 162

self-preservation of, 141–43

snowblindness, 141, 143, 146

son, Teun, 49, 194

sponsorship of, 49

spotted from Base Camp, 181, 191

on summit, 72, 73, 234n

summit call to Van Eck, 73

video interview, 200–201

at wake for Gerard McDonnell, 219

wife, Heleen, 49, 147–50, 194

Vernay, Philippe, 116, 230n

Vernay, Raphaele, 116, 230n, 233n, 234n, 235n

Vid, Theodora, xvii

 

Wagnon, Patrick, xvii

Walters, Paul, xvi, 33, 230n, 232n

K2 descent, August 2, to Base Camp, 179, 189, 236n

Warner, Chris, xvi, 230n, 233n, 234n, 235n

Watson, Dave, xvii

weather

d'Aubarède and, 115

Friday, August 1, 2008, xix, xx, xxvi, 12

Houston expedition (1953), 93

late July, 2008 unforecast winds, 16

night of August 1–2, 2008, 132

Saturday, August 2, 2008, 160, 163

Weathers, Beck, 133

Wiessner, Fritz, 35–39, 93, 95, 232n

Wiessner expedition (1939), 232n

Wilkinson, Freddie, 230n

Wolfe, Dudley, 36–39

Workman, William Hunger and Fanny Bullock, 4

 

Yeats, William Butler, 214

 

Zagorac, Predrag, xvi, 12, 17, 205, 230n, 232n

attempt to move Dren's body, 25–26, 29–30

death of Dren and, 20–22, 33

fall of Baig and, 31, 232n

K2 ascent, August 1, 20–22

Zarate, Patricia Prevost, 219, 234n

Zavka, Stefano, 116, 235n

Zerain, Alberto, xvi, 11, 16, 61, 62–63, 69, 230n, 233n, 234n, 237n

author's interview with, 218–19

“devotion to the outdoors,” 218, 219

K2 ascent and summit August 1, 57, 61–68, 234n

K2 descent, August 1, 67–68, 234n

life after K2, 218–19

return to Base Camp, 174

on summit, 61, 64–65, 67

visit to Gilkey Memorial, 96

I owe a debt of gratitude to the many people who graciously gave me many hours to tell me their story or the stories of their loved ones who died.

In particular, I thank Cecilie Skog, Annie Starkey, Mine Dumas, and Raphaele Vernay.

For historical discussions of the Himalayas and technical climbing descriptions I am grateful to Phil Powers, Kurt Diemberger, Agostino da Polenza, Maurice Isserman, and Qudrat Ali as well as to the following books:
Fallen Giants
, by Maurice Isserman and Stuart Weaver;
K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain
, by Jim Curran;
Going Higher
, by Charles S. Houston;
The Avalanche Handbook,
by David McClung and Peter Schaerer; and
Wilderness Mountaineering,
by Phil Powers. These books are all good introductions to the mountains and their dangers.

I would also like to thank the following people: Halyna Freeland; Andrea Kannapell, who worked side by side with me on the foreign desk at the
New York Times
on the day I wrote the first story and is such a wise adviser; and Andrew Ensslen, who risked his life by venturing with me north past Concordia and was flown out by helicopter from the mountains. I am also indebted to my excellent editors Jennifer Barth and Joel Rickett, and to my wonderful agent Andrew Wylie.

Thanks as well to: John Makinson, Mary Boies, David Boies, Bruce Nichols, Gillian Blake, Rick Gladstone, Greg Winter (for the better intro), Susan Chira, David Gillen, Jim Roberts, Chris Conway, Mike Nizza, David Smith, Marc Charney, Dexter Filkins, Alberto Zerain,
Patricia Prevost Zarate, John Elsen, Mick Sussman, Mark van de Walle, George Semler, Hannah Semler, Santiago Lyon, Rob Lerner, Kim Jae-soo, Go Mi-sun, David Hamilton, Peter Truell, Jerry del Missier, Rosa Shipley, Alan Cowell, Su-jin Chu, the families and friends of Philippe Vernay and Hugues d'Aubarède, Hervé Perouse, Nick Rice, Roeland van Oss, Jelle Staleman, Lars Flato Nessa, Bjorn Sekkesaeter, Tom Sjogren, Alisa Dogramadzieva, Predrag Zagorac, Milivoj Erdeljan, George Martin, Chuck Boyd, Andy Selter, Virginia O'Leary, Judy Aull, Natalka Chomiak, Chrystia Chomiak, Anne Freeland, Justine Simon, Eric Meyer (for many things, especially the many hours he gave me and his good-natured patience), Fredrik Strang, Chris Klinke, Chhiring Dorje, Marco Confortola, John Fisher Burns, Wilco van Rooijen, Cas van de Gevel, Tilak Pokharel, Donatella Fioravanti, Enrico Dalla Rosa, Barbara Baraldi, Asghar Ali Porik, Sajjad Shah, Erika Koning, Alan Terry, Douglas Bowley, Audrey Hintzy, Nicolas Mugnier, Yan Giezendanner, Nazir Sabir, Dirk Grunert, Jacek Teler, Paulo Roxo, Daniela Teixeira, Michael Kodas, Maarten van Eck, Jon Yellen, Jack Reilly, Elisabeth Rosenthal, David Roberts, Mike Farris, Pat Falvey, and Gary Landeck.

Also, Chris Warner of Earth Treks (who helped me care), Bruce Normand, Len Kannapell, Liz Alderman, Miguel Helft, Carol Bowley, Matt Ericson, Alexis Gelber, Bill Brink, Stuart Emmrich, Jawaid Iqbal, Anup Kaphle, Jerome O'Connell, Eelco Jansen, Paul Golob, Mike Oreskes, Paul Walters, Julian Curnuck, Karrar Haidri of Saltoro Summits, Chhiring Bhote, Tim O'Brien, Christian Trommsdorff, Yannick Graziani, Captain Shan-ul-Haq, Katarzyna Sklodowska, Pavel Wojas, Serge Civera, Alex Friedman, Salman Masood, Jane Perlez, Katherine Ensslen, Elettra Fiumi, Peter Chang, Choe Sang-hun, Joe Bowley, Jane Bowley, Anya Stiglitz, Tilak Pokharel, Jason Sack, Alan Arnette, Au Bon Pain at the Port Authority Bus Station in New York (for the table in the corner), Natalka Freeland, David Goodhart, John Lloyd. And last, but not least, my great children, Natalka, Halyna, and Ivan Bowley.