Of Beards and Men: The Revealing History of Facial Hair (40 page)

Aaron,
22
,
77

Abbe, James,
229–30

Achilles,
3
,
43–48
,
52
,
61
,
300

Adam,
124
,
146
,
308n56

Agamemnon,
42

Akkad,
23–24
,
298

Aksakov, Constantine,
173

Aksakov, Ivan,
173

Alain of Lille,
89

Albert (prince consort, Great Britain),
164–70
,
285

Alcott, Amos Bronson,
161

Alexander the Great,
3
,
38–45
,
48
,
50
,
52
,
58
,
61
,
148
,
289–90

Alpine Club,
183

Al-Zamzami, Muhammad,
281–82

American Civil Liberties Union,
253

Amish,
1
,
137
,
176
,
274–77
,
280
,
288

Ammann, Jacob,
137

An,
20–21

androgens,
5–6
,
11

angels,
72–73
,
124

Antioch,
60–61

Antioch Chalice,
71–72

Apelles,
44

Apollo,
45
,
66

Aristophanes,
42–43

Aristotle,
44
,
54
,
101–4
,
121

art: Alexander imitates,
3
,
45
; ancient Roman,
52–53
,
55
,
57–60
,
62
,
65–72
,
82–83
; archaic Greek,
45
,
47–48
; baroque,
133
; Christ in,
63–74
,
77
; classical Greek,
3
,
40–41
,
44–52
,
62
,
77
,
204–5
,
266
,
300nn16–17
,
316n18
; inspires Renaissance beards,
108–9
,
306n8
; medieval,
102–4
; Renaissance,
108
,
124
;
125–27
,
306n8
,
308n56
; romantic,
158–59
; Victorian,
194–97
; Zionist,
279

Asclepius,
68

Assurnasirpal II,
34–35

Assyria,
26–27
,
32–36
,
279

Atcheson, Richard,
244

Atorin, R.,
140–42

Augustine, Saint,
77
,
92

Augustus (Roman emperor),
52–53
,
59
,
66
,
83

Aurelius, Marcus,
57–59

Auroux, Jean,
256

Austria,
138
,
152
,
172–73
,
269
,
279

Babylonians,
24
,
26
,
32–33
,
36
,
279

baldness,
5–6
; in ancient Mesopotamia,
23
; Aristotle’s theory,
44
; athletes’,
245
; Caesar’s,
52
; Lenin’s,
228
,
318n41
; Louis XIII’s,
134
; of tonsure,
84
,
104

Ballad of the Beard
,
115–16

Bancroft, Elizabeth,
171

Barbatium, Johannes,
116–17
,
128

barbers: common in Hellenistic Greece,
48
; introduced to ancient Rome,
50–51
; of Louis XIII,
134
; in Renaissance,
116
; in Russia,
140–41
; in Taliban Afghanistan,
281
; urged to promote shaving in United States,
244

Barnum, P. T.,
191
,
193–94

Bassus, Junius,
68

Bayern Munich,
245–46

Bayeux Tapestry,
96

beard: artificial,
29
,
34
,
120
,
283
,
307n44
; assertiveness of,
13–15
,
17
,
32
,
148–49
,
162
,
174
,
188–89
,
240
,
287
; attractiveness of,
7
,
9–17
,
81
,
240
,
268
,
292
; and autonomy,
161
,
183
,
189
,
197
,
233
,
235
,
239–41
,
260
,
273
,
285
,
287–88
,
292
; bestows honor,
31–34
,
37
,
42–43
,
57
,
104–5
,
112
,
114
,
117–20
,
128
,
136
,
139
,
148
,
153
,
164
,
173
,
187
,
189–90
,
274
,
285
; in Christian theology,
62
,
75–77
,
92–94
,
122–24
,
302n17
,
303n9
; clubs,
3
,
115
,
285–88
; evolution of,
7–17
; favored by religious conservatives,
260
,
270–83
; Freudian interpretations,
18
,
33–34
; and gender bending,
260–69
,
285
; goatee,
156
,
249
,
252
,
265
,
270
,
272
; and health,
11–12
,
111–13
,
136
,
148
,
150
,
187–88
,
190
,
218–19
,
314n24
; and heroism,
42
,
111
,
154–55
,
164
,
173
,
183
,
197
,
211
; imperial
160
,
166
,
180
,
197
,
285
; and individuality,
174
,
188
,
222–23
,
249
,
251
,
259
,
266
,
285
; as intimidating,
13–15
,
17
,
24
,
106
; laws about,
4
,
48
,
84
,
88–89
,
109
,
170
,
189
,
251–55
,
279
,
281–82
,
288
; legal proceedings,
1
,
189
,
241–42
,
251–55
,
275–77
,
282
;
mouche
,
160
,
170
; and nonconformity,
144
,
160
,
283
,
240
,
244
,
246
,
250–51
,
260
,
270–74
; promoted as God-given,
75
,
92
,
114
,
117
,
120
,
122
,
128
,
135–36
,
141–42
,
146
,
157
,
187
,
239
,
278
,
282
; promoted as natural,
56–58
,
105
,
110–11
,
135
,
145
,
156
,
187–90
,
201
,
218
,
243
,
255
,
268
; quest,
283–88
; scientific views,
5–17
,
43–44
,
57–58
,
92
,
121–24
,
135
,
188
,
218–19
; as social protest,
156–61
,
172–73
,
235–49
,
271
,
320n3
; spade,
115–16
; square-cut,
32
,
279
; as sign of strength,
16
,
20
,
32
,
37
,
40
,
43–44
,
75
,
77
,
92
,
111
,
129
,
153
,
184
,
188–90
,
196–97
,
201
,
284
,
290
; stiletto,
115–16
; stubble,
15–17
,
58
,
95
,
116
,
261
,
265
; tax,
140
; and virility,
43–44
,
122–24
,
149
,
198
,
224
,
232
,
296n19
,
304n304
; women’s,
5
,
28–31
,
43–44
,
123
,
125–29
,
146
,
148–49
,
191–94
,
197
,
315n47
.
See also
beardlessness
;
beard movement
;
mustache
;
sideburns
(
favoris
)

beardlessness: of Adam,
124
,
146
,
308n56
; of Alexander,
3
,
45
,
61
; blandness of,
240
; of Christ,
65–66
,
72–73
; and goodness,
101
,
109
,
113
; and holiness,
84–85
,
87–89
,
93–94
,
97
,
99
,
101
; and honesty,
213
,
218
,
241
; of Lawrence of Arabia,
214–15
; of Lenin,
228
; as mark of superiority,
29
,
48
,
89
,
93–94
,
97
,
290
; and immortality,
45
,
47–48
,
52
,
66
; and youthfulness,
3
,
42
,
45–6
,
47
,
52
,
66
,
117–18
,
203–4
,
213
,
217
,
219–21
,
229
266
,
280
.
See also
shaving

beard movement,
2–4
,
260
,
290
; first,
52
,
54
,
55
,
62
,
75
; medieval,
81
,
88
,
97
; Renaissance,
109–10
,
115
,
128
,
130
,
137
,
187
; nineteenth-century,
163
,
174
,
180
,
186–87
,
194
,
203
,
212
,
217
,
273
,
278

Beard Team USA,
287

bears (gay culture),
268
,
324n22

Beatles,
23
,
237–38
,
242

Beaver (game),
221

Bebel, August,
228

Beckham, David,
261–67
,
288

Bedell, Grace,
175–76

Beethoven, Ludwig van,
151

Berlin,
152
,
155
,
172–73
,
211
,
247
,
285

Bernard of Clairvaux, Saint,
98–99

Bernstein, Eduard,
228

Bible,
22
,
31–34
,
36–37
,
64
,
68
,
74
,
92
,
115
,
118
,
121
,
137
,
146
,
185
,
278–79
; Genesis,
92
; Leviticus,
36–37
,
142
,
278
; Numbers,
22
,
36
; Deuteronomy,
36
; Judges,
33
; II Samuel,
32
; I Chronicles,
31
; Psalms,
77
; Jeremiah,
23
; Isaiah,
31
,
90
;
Matthew,
66
; Luke,
64–65
,
68
; John,
66
; I Corinthians,
83

Bismarck, Otto von,
208–9
,
211–12
,
229

Blair, Tony,
258

Blunkett, David,
258

Bly, Robert,
255–56

bodybuilding,
204–8
.
See also
sports

bonobos,
5–6

Borromeo, Cardinal,
113

Boston Red Sox,
1
,
283–85

Boy, John D.,
272

Breitner, Paul,
244–51
,
285

Bromberger, Christian,
18

Brookes, William Penny,
202

Bruno, Bishop of Segni,
93
,
104

Bulwer, John,
128
,
135–36
,
146

Burchard, Abbot,
89–94
,
97
,
104

Burnside, Ambrose,
176

Burroughs, Edgar Rice,
217

Butler, Judith,
2

Caesar, Julius,
51–52

Callisthenes,
44

Calmet, Antoine Augustin,
146

Cashmore, Ellis,
264

Cassiodorus,
302n17
,
303n9

Castiglione, Baldassare,
108

Castro, Fidel,
244
,
247

Catherine of Aragon,
107

Cecil, Algernon,
221

Cecil, Hugh (Lord Quickswood),
221

Chamberlain, Wilt,
250

Chaplin, Charles,
223
,
225
,
229–30
,
232

Charlemagne,
79–85
,
94
,
97