Omelette and a Glass of Wine (54 page)

Hièly, Avignon,
79
–
81

Hôtel du Midi, Lamastre,
53
–
63

Hôtel de la Poste, Duclair,
261

Mère Brazier, Lyon,
70

La Sirène, Nantes,
88

Soleil d’Or, Montignac,
271

IN ITALY

Buoi Rossi, Alba,
283

Cipriani, Torcello,
106
–
7

Romano’s, Burano,
107

restaurants, origin of,
145

Rhône,
58
,
272
–
3

rhubarb

fool,
245

jam,
299

rice, Italian,
110
,
118

riso in bianco
,
119

riso ricco
,
117
–
18

riso secco
,
118
–
19

Richard III,
288

ricotta
,
206

rillettes
,
221
,
224

‘
rillettes écossaises
’,
217
–
18

ris de veau
,
59

risotto, hop-shoot,
107
,
109
,
110
,
112

Ritz, César,
195
–
6

Ritz Hotel,
192
,
194
–
5

Robertson, Jean,
10

Romano’s, London,
192

Rome,
109
–
10

Ross-on-Wye,
20
–
21

Roubaud, Château,
82

Rouff, Marcel,
250
–
51

rum, white,
190
,
223

Russell, Leonard,
15
–
17
,
135
,
147

Sacchi, Bartolomeo:
De Honesta Voluptate
,
248

saffron,
97
,
129
,
284

Saint-Ange, Mme:
Livre de Cuisine
,
35
,
169

Saintsbury, George,
223

salade niçoise
, debasing of,
40
,
251

salads,
178
,
292

green,
139

museau de porc en salade
,
253

salade de pois chiches
,
259

tomato,
95
–
6
,
208
,
210

salmon, potted,
225
–
6

salt beef, potted,
222

salt duck, Welsh,
294
–
7

sardenara casalinga
,
98
–
100

sardines,
275
–
9

butter,
168
–
9
,
227

American/Canadian/Norwegian,
276

sauces

aioli,
259
–
60

apple,
35
–
7

cheese,
117
–
18

coulis de tomates à la moutarde
,
260

Courchamps,
191
–
2

cream,
273

for fish,
190
–
92

mayonnaise, debased,
25
–
7

mulberry,
248

pesto
,
33

tomato,
118
–
19
,
212
,
260

au vin de Médoc
,
66

saucisse en feuilletage
,
61

sausages, yellow,
132

Savoy Hotel,
192
,
195
–
6
,
214

scallops,
182
–
3
,
191

Scappi:
Opera
,
109n
.

Scott, Sir Walter,
234

Scottish food,
234
–
5
,
238

Scott-James, Anne,
14n
.

Scurfield, G. and C:
Home Baked
(review),
135
–
7

Seneca,
127

Senn, Herman,
26
–
7
,
306
–
7

shad with sorrel,
64
–
5

shellfish

anisette liqueur with,
190
–
91

crab,
32
–
3

lobster

à l’américaine
,
145
,
179

Courchamps,
191
–
2

mussels,
14
,
85
–
90
,
87

oysters in wine,
132

pain d’écrevisses sauce cardinal
,
59
,
61
,
62

potted,
226
–
7

scallops,
182
–
3
,
191

shortbread, almond,
245
–
6

short cakes, Gwent,
294
,
298

Simon, André,
16
,
17
,
166
–
7
,
217
,
309

Simpson, John:
Complete System of Cookery
,
288
,
290

Simpson, N.F.:
One Way Pendulum
,
22

Simpson’s, Strand,
192

Smith, E.:
Complete Housewife
,
231

smoked fish pastes,
227
,
228

Smollétt, Tobias,
134
,
136

sole

meunière
,
58

normande
,
250
–
51

soups

au fromage
,
158

hop,
110
–
11

thickened with bread,
18

vegetable, too thick in England,
59

vichysoisse
,
40

zuppa di luppoli
,
108
,
110
–
11

Soyer, Alexis,
154
,
305

spaghetti with chicken livers and lemon,
115
–
17

Spain,
92
,
93
,
94
–
7
,
208

Spectator
,
9
–
11
,
14
,
19
–
39
,
41
–
8
,
82
,
94
–
7
,
137
–
41
,
148
–
56
,
185
–
7
,
275
–
8
,
283
–
6
,
300
–
303

spiced beef,
288
–
90

spices,
284

spinach
à la crème
,
273
–
4

spirits in cookery,
187
–
92
,
223

Star and Garter, Richmond,
194

Stevenson, Robert Louis,
237

stock, indiscriminate use of,
167
–
8
,
296

stock-pots,
296
,
306

stout, in cooking,
160

store cupboard,
22
–
5
,
27
–
9
,
146
,
216
–
17

strawberry

cream,
242

fool,
238

style moderne, see
nouvelle cuisine

sugar, lump,
199

summer pudding,
247
–
8

Sunday Dispatch
,
9

Sunday Times
,
9
,
10
,
11
,
15
,
98
–
100
,
134
–
7
,
143
–
5
,
147
,
175
–
81
,
184

Sutcliffe, Mrs Dorothy,
36
–
7

Suzanne, Alfred:
La Cuisine Anglaise
,
154
–
5

sweetbreads,
59

Swinburne, Algernon,
300

Swiss food,
25
,
157
,
179
–
80

syllabub,
229
–
37
,
241

synagrida
,
142

synthetic foodstuffs,
25
–
9
,
40
–
41
,
158
,
217
,
229
–
30
,
264

of the war years,
11
,
19

table decoration,
185
–
7
,
239
–
40
,
306
–
7

taramasalata
,
227
,
228

tarragon,
153
,
191
–
2

Thalamas, Paul,
see
Herbodeau, Eugène

Thompson, Sir Henry,
136

thyme,
119

tinned food,
see
canned food

tomatoes,
208
–
16

canned,
24
,
211
,
212
,
216

coulis de tomates à la moutarde
,
260

à la crème
,
178

crushed,
214
–
16

honey,
213

jam,
171
,
212
–
13

judicious use of,
119
,
208
,
211

Mediterranean,
95
–
6
,
208

poor varieties in England,
47
,
208
–
9

salad,
95
–
6
,
208
,
210

sauces,
118
–
19
,
210
,
211
,
212
,
260

tongue, potted,
221

Toulouse-Lautrec, Mapie de,
161

Tours,
63
–
6

tourte à la creme
,
78

tranches au fromage
,
180

Tree, Herbert Beerbohm,
229

trifles,
229
–
30
,
237
,
240
,
241
,
245

tripe,
39

trucs de bonne femme
,
17
–
18

True Gentlewoman’s Delight
,
243

truffles,
14
,
249
,
280
–
83

tuna/tunny fish butter,
228

Turner, E.S.:
What the Butler Saw
,
148

Tuscany,
113
–
19