Pie and Pastry Bible (130 page)

NOTE

Leftover coulibiac is, quite possibly, even more delicious than the first time around because the pastry becomes crisper than it was initially. After slicing the leftover coulibiac, carefully remove the pastry, with the crêpe layer attached to it, from each slice and place on a baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 425°F. oven for about 10 minutes. If desired, warm the insides by placing each slice on its plate in the microwave for 1 minute on medium. Rearrange the pastry around each slice of filling. This “recomposition” is easy to accomplish, looks great, and tastes fantastic. For a simpler method that is also delicious but results in less crisp pastry, reheat whole leftover coulibiac from frozen in a preheated 350°F. oven for about 30 minutes or until a skewer inserted in the center feels warm.

UNDERSTANDING

The salmon is poached first both for flavor and to release some of its liquid before wrapping it in the filling, crêpes, and pastry.

For the crêpes, cornstarch is used in place of flour because it absorbs liquid more readily, making it possible to use the batter without resting, and results in more tender crêpes.

The pastry is frozen before trimming so that it cuts cleanly and the edges do not seal. Freezing the entire coulibiac and baking it on a hot baking stone or sheet serves to create as crisp a pastry as possible. The pastry has a chance to cook and start to rise before the filling defrosts and releases its moisture.

BEEF WELLINGTON

T
his timeless classic is one of the most elegant and delicious dishes, perfect for a gala event such as New Year’s Eve dinner. It is practical as well, because all the components except for the beef can be made two days in advance. The puff pastry can be made months ahead and frozen (or purchased frozen). Cooked properly, the filet mignon is rare throughout and the pastry flaky and buttery. Because the meat is rare, any leftover reheats magnificently. The secret to keep it from becoming soggy at the bottom is borrowed from the classic coulibiac of salmon: the layer of crêpes lining the puff pastry. Thyme replaces the dill for a more compatible flavor.

I find the traditional foie gras spread too heavy and not the flavor that best complements the beef. Duxelles, particularly made with part morel mushrooms, is a fabulously flavorful and compatible stand-in. I first learned about duxelles at James Beard’s cooking school more than twenty-five years ago and placed it at once in that special category of culinary jewels that work magic to enhance other ingredients. This enrichment of finely minced mushrooms, slowly sautéed in butter until they turn almost black with concentration, is wonderful to have on hand in the freezer for any number of dishes. Preprocessor days, it was necessary to use the largest chef’s knife available for the laborious task of mincing the mushrooms. Now the task is reduced to a matter of seconds. My friend Andreas Holder, food and beverage manager at the Kitano Hotel in New York City, suggested the morels, saying that in Switzerland duxelles is usually prepared that way.

Although this full-flavored dish stands on its own just as it is, it deserves a fine sauce, served on the side. It also merits your best Bordeaux or cabernet.

OVEN TEMPERATURE: 425°F., THEN 400°F., THEN 375°F. • BAKING TIME: 55 TO 60 MINUTES (PLUS 20 TO 30 MINUTES STANDING TIME) SERVES: 8 TO 1O; FINISHED SIZE IS 13 INCHES BY 8 INCHES
* If you do not have clarified butter on hand, you will need to clarify 3 tablespoons (1.5 ounces/43 grams) of unsalted butter (see page 629).
†Or 8 ounces fresh morels or white mushrooms chopped with the other mushrooms.
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
	VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
puff pastry (page 417 or 420) or 2 sheets (about 11 inches by 14 inches) frozen puff pastry (see page 414)		2½ pounds	1 kg 134 grams
Thyme Crêpes 1 large egg	(8 to 9 crêpes) 3 tablespoons	1.75 ounces 50 grams (weighed without the shell)
milk	liquid cup	2.75 ounces	80 grams
unsalted butter, melted	1 tablespoon	0.5 ounce	14 grams
cornstarch	cup	1.33 ounces	40 grams
salt	1/16 teaspoon	•	•
minced fresh thyme	1 teaspoon	•	•
minced fresh parsley, preferably flat-leaf	1 teaspoon	•	•
clarified butter*	1½ teaspoons	0.2 ounce	6 grams
Duxelles dried morels†	heaping cup	1.33 ounces	38 grams
water	1 liquid cup	8.3 ounces	236 grams
fresh mushrooms	approx. 8 cups	24 ounces	680 grams
unsalted butter	8 tablespoons	4 ounces	113 grams
1 medium clove garlic, lightly smashed	•	•	•
salt	½ teaspoon	•	•
freshly ground black pepper	¼ teaspoon	•	•

EQUIPMENT

A 17-inch baking sheet with very low or no sides; a dark steel baking sheet or baking stone; and a 6-inch crêpe pan

Advance preparation:
The crêpes can be prepared up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated, or frozen for up to 3 months; the duxelles can be prepared a day ahead of the final assembly.

Make the dough (page 417 or 420), or defrost according to package directions. Divide it into 2 pieces, about 14 ounces (one third) and 26 ounces (two thirds).

MAKE THE THYME CRÊPES

In a blender container, place all the ingredients for the crêpes except the clarified butter and blend at high speed for 10 seconds. Alternatively, in a large bowl, combine
the cornstarch and salt. Slowly stir in the milk. Use a hand-held electric or rotary beater to beat in the eggs one at a time, beating for about 1 minute after each addition. Beat until the batter is smooth. Beat in the thyme, parsley, and the 1 tablespoon melted butter.

Heat the crêpe pan over medium-high heat until hot enough to sizzle a drop of water dropped on it. Brush it lightly with some of the clarified butter and pour a scant 2 tablespoons of batter into the center. Immediately tilt the pan to the left and then down and around to the right so that the batter covers the entire pan. Cook until the top starts to dull and the edges begin to brown, 15 to 20 seconds. Use a small metal spatula to lift an edge and check to see if the crêpe is golden brown on the bottom. Then, grasping the edge of the crêpe with your fingers, flip it over and cook for 10 seconds, or just until lightly browned. Invert the pan over the counter and the crêpe will release. Repeat with the remaining batter.

It is fine to stack the crêpes if using them the same day. If refrigerating or freezing the crêpes, however, separate them with pieces of waxed paper, or they may stick to each other.

MAKE THE DUXELLES

In a medium bowl, soak the dried morels in the water for at least 30 minutes. Drain them in a cheesecloth-lined strainer, to catch any residual sand, gently squeezing out the liquid. Reserve the liquid. (There will be about ½ cup.)

Clean the fresh mushrooms by brushing off any dirt with a damp paper towel and cutting off the tough stem ends. Cut any large mushrooms into quarters.

In a food processor with the medium shredding blade, shred the fresh mushrooms. Empty the mushrooms into a bowl and insert the metal blade in the processor. Pulse the fresh mushrooms and the morels in 3 batches until finely chopped.

In a large (12-inch) skillet, over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the garlic and sauté it for a minute. Add the reserved mushroom soaking water, bring to a boil, and reduce it for 3 to 4 minutes or until the butter and juices are sizzling. Add the mushrooms, salt, and pepper, and simmer, covered, over low heat, for 5 minutes. They will release a lot of liquid. Uncover and simmer for 50 to 60 minutes, stirring occasionally, until all the liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms have turned dark brown. Discard the garlic and allow the duxelles to cool completely.

FLAVOR THE FILLET

Two hours before wrapping the fillet in the pastry, place it in a pan and rub it all over with the cut clove of garlic. Sprinkle it with the pepper and thyme. Allow it to sit at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours.

Preheat the broiler.

Discard the thyme and brush the fillet all over with the melted butter. Sprinkle it with the salt and broil, close to the heat, for 4 to 5 minutes on each side or until browned. Remove it to a rack to cool completely.

ASSEMBLE THE BEEF WELLINGTON

On a lightly floured counter, roll out one piece of puff pastry (about 14 ounces) into a 16½- by 7-inch rectangle about
inch thick. (If using prerolled purchased puff pastry, after thawing, dust it well with flour and roll it to the proper length.) Transfer it to the flat baking sheet and brush lightly with some of the egg white.