Pie and Pastry Bible (129 page)

Over high heat, bring the liquid in the saucepan to a full boil; reduce the heat to low. (Or use a microwave if using a glass measure.)

In a second medium saucepan, over medium-low heat, melt the butter. Reduce the heat to low, add the flour, and cook for 1 minute, whisking constantly. Add the hot liquid all at once, whisking rapidly. Add the reserved mushrooms and simmer over very low heat, stirring often, for 20 minutes.

Whisk in the cayenne pepper and lemon juice and then the egg yolks. Continue cooking for 30 seconds, whisking rapidly. The sauce will be very thick but pourable. Remove it from the heat and add the white pepper. Spoon the sauce over the salmon and spread it evenly to cover it all. Allow it to cool, then press a piece of plastic wrap, lightly sprayed with nonstick vegetable spray, on top and refrigerate until cold, at least 1 hour, preferably overnight.

MAKE THE DILL CRÊPES

INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
	VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
*If you do not have clarified butter on hand, you will need to clarify 3 tablespoons (1.5 ounces/43 grams) of unsalted butter (see page 629).
Dill Crêpes 1 large egg	(8 to 9 crêpes) 3 tablespoons	1.75 ounces 50 grams (weighed without the shell)
milk	liquid cup	approx. 2.75 ounces	80 grams
unsalted butter, melted	1 tablespoon	0.5 ounce	14 grams
cornstarch	cup	1.33 ounces	40 grams
salt	1/16 teaspoon	•	•
minced fresh dill	1 teaspoon	•	•
minced fresh parsley	1 teaspoon	•	•
clarified butter*	1½ teaspoons	0.2 ounce	6 grams

In a blender container, place all the ingredients for the crêpes except the clarified butter and blend at high speed for 10 seconds. Alternatively, in a large bowl, combine the cornstarch and salt. Slowly stir in the milk. Use a hand-held electric or rotary beater to beat in the eggs one at a time, beating for about 1 minute after each addition. Beat until the batter is smooth. Beat in the dill, parsley, and the 1 tablespoon melted butter.

Heat the crêpe pan over medium-high heat until hot enough to sizzle a drop of water. Brush it lightly with some of the clarified butter and pour a scant 2 tablespoons of batter into the center. Immediately tilt the pan to the left and then down and around to the right so that the batter covers the entire pan. Cook until the top
starts to dull and the edges begin to brown, 15 to 20 seconds. Use a small metal spatula to lift an edge and check to see if the crêpe is golden brown on the bottom. Then, grasping the edge of the crêpe with your fingers, flip it over and cook for 10 seconds, or just until lightly browned. Invert the pan over the counter and the crêpe will release. Repeat with the remaining batter.

It is fine to stack the crêpes if using them the same day. If refrigerating or freezing the crêpes, however, separate them with pieces of waxed paper, or they may stick to each other.

MAKE THE COUSCOUS AND EGG FILLING

INREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
Couscous and Egg Filling water	cup	5.5 ounces	156 grams
unsalted butter	2 teaspoons	0.33 ounce	9 grams
salt	¼ teaspoon	•	•
freshly ground black pepper	1/16 teaspoon	•	•
couscous	½ cup	2.75 ounces	80 grams
2 large eggs, hard-cooked, shelled, and finely chopped	•	4 ounces	112 grams
minced fresh parsley, preferably flat-leaf	3 tablespoons	1.5 ounces	42 grams
minced fresh dill	2 teaspoons	•	•
Egg Glaze 2 large egg yolks	2 tablespoons	1.25 ounces	37 grams
heavy cream	1 tablespoon	0.5 ounce	15 grams

In a small covered saucepan, bring the water and butter to a boil. Add the salt and pepper and slowly stir in the couscous, making sure the water boils continuously. Simmer over low heat, stirring constantly, until almost all of the water is absorbed. Remove from the heat, cover, and allow to sit for 5 minutes. Fluff the couscous with a fork and cool uncovered.

Use a fork or wet fingers to separate the grains of couscous. Combine them with the chopped egg, parsley, and dill, mixing lightly with a fork. (If preparing ahead, cover and refrigerate.)

ASSEMBLE THE COULIBIAC

At least 8 hours ahead, remove the salmon from the refrigerator and divide it in half down the center, where the two columns of salmon meet.

On a lightly floured counter, roll out one piece of puff pastry (about 14 ounces) into an 11- by 8-inch rectangle about
inch thick. (If using prerolled purchased puff pastry, after thawing, dust it well with flour and roll it to the proper length.) Transfer it to the flat baking sheet, trim off the excess, and reserve the trimmings, covered and chilled.

Arrange 3 overlapping crêpes over the center of the rectangle, leaving a 1-inch border on all sides. Sprinkle the crêpes with about one third of the couscous mixture, maintaining the 1-inch border. Place half of the chilled salmon, mushroom side down, on top of the couscous mixture. Sprinkle the top of the salmon with another one third of the couscous mixture and pat it in place. Place the remaining salmon on top, mushroom side up, and sprinkle with the remaining couscous mixture. Pat the couscous in place. Cover with the remaining crêpes, overlapping them and making sure all the salmon is covered.

Roll out the second piece of puff pastry into a 16- by 11-inch rectangle, sprinkling with flour as necessary to keep it from sticking. (The top piece of pastry has to be wider and longer than the bottom piece because it needs to cover the sides as well as the top.) Stir together the egg yolks and cream and brush the 1-inch border with this egg glaze. Brush off any excess flour and, starting at a short side, roll the top piece of pastry loosely around the rolling pin. Position it over the salmon and, starting at the bottom, unroll it evenly over it, tugging it gently to stretch it forward. Smooth the sides in place over the salmon and filling and press down firmly on the border so the top pastry adheres to the bottom one, leaving an opening at each end to expel any air pockets if necessary before pressing and sealing the ends. The pastry should rest snugly against the crêpe-wrapped salmon. Cover the coulibiac with plastic wrap and freeze it for about 20 minutes. Cover and refrigerate the remaining egg glaze.

With a very sharp knife, trim the excess pastry so that only the 1-inch border remains. Wrap and chill the scraps. Brush the entire pastry with the egg glaze, taking care to avoid the sides, as the glaze would seal them and prevent rising. Freeze the coulibiac again, uncovered, for 20 minutes.

MEANWHILE, MAKE THE DECORATIONS

Roll the pastry scraps about 1/16 inch thick. Using a sharp knife, cut out at least twelve 2½-inch rose leaves. Use the knife to make shallow vein lines. Or, if you have a metal rose-petal mold, simply invert it, veined side down, on the pastry and press firmly, then use the tip of a sharp knife to cut around the mold, lift the mold away, and lift up the leaf. Place the leaves on a flat surface, such as a cookie sheet. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until just before ready to use.

Remove the coulibiac from the freezer and, using a small cutter, about ¾ inch and preferably scalloped, cut a steam vent in the center of the pastry. Use a second larger cutter (about 1½ inches) to cut a circle from a pastry scrap. Cut out the center with the smaller cutter, brush the bottom with egg glaze, and fit it around the steam vent. Place the leaves, overlapping slightly, as they will spread apart during baking, radiating from the center, brushing the bottoms with egg glaze to attach them. Give the pastry a second egg wash, covering the pastry leaves as well. Return it to the freezer for 30 minutes.

Cover the pastry with a large piece of plastic wrap, lightly sprayed with non-stick vegetable spray or buttered. Freeze the coulibiac for at least 5 hours. (The coulibiac can be frozen for up to 3 weeks. If planning to freeze it longer than 1 day, wrap it with heavy-duty foil after it is frozen solid.)

Preheat the oven to 425°F. at least 30 minutes before baking. Set an oven rack at the lowest level and place a baking stone or dark steel sheet on it before preheating.

Bake the coulibiac for 10 minutes, then lower the heat to 400°F. and bake for another 10 minutes. Cover it
loosely
with a piece of aluminum foil (do not crimp it tightly, or the pastry will steam) and bake for another 10 minutes. Lower the heat to 375°F. and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the coulibiac from the oven and insert an instant-read thermometer into the steam vent to check the temperature. It will read 115°F. when done; if it is not yet done, return it to the oven, turning it around for more even baking, and continue baking for 10 to 15 minutes, uncovered, until it tests done. Allow it to sit on the baking sheet for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour before cutting it. (The temperature will rise at least 5 degrees.)

When ready to serve, slip a large rimless baking sheet (at least 12 inches long) under the coulibiac and transfer it to a serving platter or an inverted cutting board. Using a serrated knife, cut the coulibiac into 1-inch slices. (Use a wide pancake turner or spatula pressed up against the cut end to support the coulibiac and then a second one to lift the pieces to the plates, laying them on their sides.)