Pie and Pastry Bible (152 page)

COCOA WHIPPED CREAM
Increase the sugar to 2½ tablespoons and add 2 tablespoons of cocoa (preferably Dutch-processed). Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to dissolve the cocoa before beating.

BOURBON WHIPPED CREAM
Decrease the sugar to ½ teaspoon, decrease the vanilla extract to ¼ teaspoon, and add 1 tablespoon of bourbon.

STORE

Refrigerated, 2 to 3 days.

REAL OLD-FASHIONED WHIPPED CREAM

A
fter years of groaning about the deterioration of the quality of heavy cream (ultrapasteurization and a decrease in butterfat are the culprits) and envying those with access to 40 percent butterfat cream, I finally found a way to get the butterfat back into the cream that is the very soul of simplicity. If the cream is very low in butterfat (20 percent), this method will bring it to exactly 40 percent. If the cream is higher in butterfat (36 percent—it whips readily), use only 3 tablespoons butter, and the cream will end up with 52.5 percent butterfat and greatly increased stability.

This cream has the stability to use as a filling, yet it has an extraordinarily light texture.

Refrigerate the mixer bowl and whisk beater for at least 15 minutes.

In a small saucepan, melt the butter with ¼ cup of the cream, stirring constantly until the butter is fully melted. Pour it into a small heatproof measuring cup and cool to room temperature. Add the vanilla.

In the chilled bowl, beat the remaining ¾ cup of cream and the sugar just until traces of beater marks begin to show distinctly. On low speed, add the butter mixture in a steady stream, beating constantly. Beat just until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised.

STORE

Refrigerated, 2 to 3 days.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

The whipped cream is smoothest when the butter mixture is added gradually.

If the finished pastry will have to sit at room temperature for more than 30 minutes, use whipped cream stabilized with gelatin (page 557), as Real Old-Fashioned Whipped Cream will begin to soften.

UNDERSTANDING

According to the law of the land, heavy cream must be 20 to 40 percent butterfat. The average fat content is 37.5 percent, but, alas, to date no law requires that the fat
content be listed. You will know if the cream your area of the country offers is the 20 percent variety because you will encounter difficulty whipping it stiffly and, once whipped, it will separate or seem to curdle slightly at the edges if a fruit sauce is spooned onto it.

Butter contains 81 percent butterfat. The rest is milk solids and water. Using the method in the above recipe rehomogenizes the butterfat into the cream.

STABILIZED WHIPPED CREAM

Cornstarch and powdered sugar (which contains 2 percent cornstarch) are cooked with a little heavy cream until the starch swells and thickens it. The mixture is then beaten into the softly whipped cream. This whipped cream will not water out for up to twenty-four hours. While using this method does not affect the consistency, it will not stabilize the cream enough to keep at room temperature. It is excellent for garnishing a pie that will remain refrigerated until serving time or for making whipped cream several hours ahead to serve on the side.

Refrigerate the mixer bowl and beater for at least 15 minutes.

In a small saucepan, place the powdered sugar and cornstarch and gradually stir in ¼ cup of the cream. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring constantly, and simmer for just a few seconds, until the liquid is thickened. Scrape it into a small bowl and cool to room temperature. Add the vanilla.

Beat the remaining ¾ cup of cream just until traces of the beater marks begin to show distinctly. Add the cream and cornstarch mixture in a steady stream, beating constantly. Beat just until soft peaks form when the beater is raised. Do not overheat.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 24 hours.

CHOCOLATE CHIP WHIPPED CREAM

This whipped cream is amazingly delicious—good enough, in fact, to eat by itself. It also makes a sensational filling for cream puffs and éclairs, and a topping for or accompaniment to the Chocolate Oblivion Tartlets (page 308).

Refrigerate the mixer bowl and whisk beater for at least 15 minutes.

In a small heatproof glass measuring cup, place the gelatin and water. Allow the gelatin to soften for 5 minutes. Set the cup in a pan of simmering water and stir occasionally until the gelatin is dissolved. (This can also be done in a microwave on high power, stirring once or twice.) Remove the cup and cool to room temperature, about 7 minutes. (The gelatin must be liquid but not warm when added to the cream, or it will lump.)

In the chilled bowl, beat the cream and sugar just until traces of beater marks begin to show distinctly. Add the gelatin mixture in a steady stream, beating constantly. Add the vanilla and beat just until soft peaks form when beater is raised. In a small bowl, stir together the chocolate and nuts and fold them into the whipped cream until evenly incorporated. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 3 days.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

Do not overheat the cream, as the whipped cream will continue to stiffen after folding in the chocolate and nuts.

If the grated chocolate is not cold when it is folded into the whipped cream, it will turn the whipped cream a light brown instead of white.

CARAMEL WHIPPED CREAM

A
small amount of this light caramel-imbued whipped cream goes a long way in enhancing an apple or pear tart or crisp, or a chocolate or coffee tart. Saving a little of the powdered caramel to add shortly before serving offers a lovely textural delight. The powdered caramel keeps for several weeks.

EQUIPMENT

A heavy saucepan, at least 5-cup capacity, ideally with a nonstick lining, and a baking sheet, covered with aluminum foil and lightly greased

In the saucepan, stir together the sugar and water until the sugar is completely moistened. Heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bubbling. Stop stirring completely and allow it to boil undisturbed until it turns a deep amber (380° to 385°F. on a candy thermometer). Immediately remove it from the heat and pour it onto the prepared baking sheet.

When the caramel is completely cool, break it into pieces and process in a food processor until it becomes a powder. You will have about ½ cup.

In a medium mixing bowl, place 3 tablespoons of the caramel powder and the cream. Cover it tightly (to prevent absorption of other odors) and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or until the caramel has softened and dissolved.

Within 30 minutes of serving, beat the cream until it starts to thicken and the beater marks become visible. Add another tablespoon of the caramel powder and the vanilla and beat until it mounds softly when dropped from a spoon. Do not overheat.

STORE

Leftover caramel powder: room temperature (low humidity), tightly covered, up to 3 weeks; frozen, up to 2 months. Whipped cream: refrigerated, tightly covered, 2 to 3 days.