Pie and Pastry Bible (155 page)

To make a cræme St.-Honoré (Chiboust),
for every ½ cup of pastry cream, after the gelatin has set, whisk in ½ to 1 teaspoon of Grand Marnier and fold in ¼ cup of heavy cream, whipped to stiff peaks. Starting with ½ cup of pastry cream will yield 1 cup of cræme St.-Honoré.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

heavy well-insulated pan is essential to keep the pastry cream from scorching.

A 10-loop piano wire (fine) whisk is practically indispensable to prevent lumps from forming in the finished pastry cream.

It is possible to make half this recipe if you have a small piano wire whisk.

Do not beat vigorously after cooling or the pastry cream will break down.

UNDERSTANDING

The eggs and milk do not curdle even though brought to a boil because the protein is stabilized by the cornstarch.

A small amount of scalding hot half-and-half is beaten into the egg to coagulate the chalaza attached to the yolk. It is then strained to remove this ropy textured element.

The butter is added at the end to maximize its fresh flavor.

PRALINE POWDER

T
his crunchy hazelnut and caramel powder is a delicious addition to plain or chocolate pastry cream.

MAKES: ABOUT 2 CUPS
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
hazelnuts, peeled (see page 642b)	1 cup	5 ounces	142 grams
sugar	generous cup	5 ounces	142 grams
water	¼ liquid cup	2 ounces	60 grams

EQUIPMENT

A heavy saucepan, at least 5-cup capacity, ideally with a nonstick lining, and a nonstick baking sheet or baking sheet, covered with aluminum foil and lightly greased

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Place the hazelnuts on a second baking sheet and toast in the oven until lightly browned, about 20 minutes. Place them, close together, on the nonstick or prepared baking sheet.

In the saucepan, stir together the sugar and water until the sugar is completely moistened. Heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bubbling. Stop stirring completely and allow it to boil undisturbed until it turns a deep amber (380°F. on a candy thermometer).
Immediately
pour the caramel over the nuts.

When the caramel is completely cool, about 15 to 20 minutes, remove it from the sheet and break it into a few pieces. Process it in a food processor until it becomes a powder.

STORE

Room temperature (low humidity), tightly covered, up to 3 weeks; frozen, up to 2 months.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

To prevent crystallization, do not allow any sugar crystals to get on the sides of the pan and be sure to moisten all the sugar with the water. Stop stirring entirely as soon as it comes to a boil. If using a thermometer, be sure to rinse it and
dry it if you remove it and reinsert it in the syrup. If any sugar remains on the thermometer, it will cause crystallization.

UNDERSTANDING

I adore the flavor of caramel, so I like to have as much depth of flavor as possible without any burnt flavor. I like to bring it up to 380°F. for maximum flavor. The darker you make the caramel, the less sweet it will seem, but you risk burning it if you don’t have an absolutely accurate thermometer (see page 673).

This praline powder has 50 percent hazelnuts, just like the finest-quality praline paste, but it has a crunchier texture.

CHIBOUST CREAM

C
hiboust was the pastry chef who created the Gâteau St.-Honoré, which he filled with this whipped cream-lightened pastry cream. The Grand Marnier in this version perfumes the custard, lending to the illusion of lightness. The gelatin makes it possible to pipe magnificent swirls on a pastry.

Pour the cream into a mixing bowl; cover and refrigerate it.

In a medium heavy saucepan, scald
^*
the milk, cover, and keep it hot over very low heat. In a mixer bowl, place the sugar and vanilla beans and, using your fingers, rub the seeds into the sugar. Add the vanilla pods to the cream. Add the yolks to the sugar and, preferably with the whisk beater, beat the yolks and sugar until well blended. Add the cornstarch and gelatin and beat until well blended. Gradually beat in the hot milk.

Return the yolk mixture to the saucepan and bring it to a boil, stirring constantly with a whisk, reaching well into the bottom edges of the pan. As soon as the mixture comes to a boil, it will become very thick. Reduce the heat and simmer for 1 minute, stirring constantly with the whisk. Remove the pan from the heat, whisk in the vanilla extract and Grand Marnier, and pour the mixture into a bowl. Press a piece of greased plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the mixture to prevent a skin from forming. Allow it to cool completely at room temperature or refrigerated. (You can speed cooling by placing the bowl in the freezer for about 30 minutes, but to prevent stiffening around the sides, transfer to a glass or plastic bowl if necessary, and stir gently 2 or 3 times.) When the pastry cream is cool, set it aside briefly at room temperature while whipping the cream.

Remove the vanilla pods from the cream (rinse and dry and save for another use). Whip the cream until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised. Using a large whisk or rubber spatula, fold it into the cooled pastry cream. Use it at once or cover and chill.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 3 days.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

If time does not allow for chilling the completed pastry cream and you are planning to serve the dessert immediately, increase the gelatin to 1 tablespoon plus a scant ½ teaspoon (1½ envelopes/10 grams).