Pie and Pastry Bible (173 page)

One of my favorite dark chocolates is Lindt Excellence. I also love Valrhona’s Bittersweet and Guanaja, which have a delicious, winy undertone. When it comes to milk chocolate, I adore Lindt for its creamy smoothness and lovely caramel flavor notes. For white chocolate, I like the Lindt confectionery bar and the Valrhona.

Some fine chocolates may be produced under kashruth supervision. Write to the manufacturer or distributor for a letter of certification if you want to use a chocolate in kosher cooking.

Brands of chocolate differ partly because of the special formulas unique to each company, which determine the blend of the beans, the type and amount of flavorings, and the proportions of chocolate liquor and cocoa butter. Taste and texture are also greatly affected by the roasting, grinding, and conching, the processes that turn cocoa beans into chocolate. Grinding reduces the particle size and conching, a wave-like motion, releases volatile oils, develops flavor, and coats the sugar and cocoa particles with cocoa butter, which makes the chocolate smooth. More than 96 hours of conching can result in an oily texture. European, particularly Swiss, chocolate is usually conched for up to 96 hours, which produces the characteristic velvety-smooth texture. American chocolate may be conched for only 4 to 5 hours, if at all, though some brands claim as long as 74 hours of conching.

Lecithin, an emulsifier made from soybeans, is used to stabilize chocolate. Its presence reduces the amount of cocoa butter required to cover the cocoa particles. It frees the cocoa butter to act as a liquid medium for the particles. It also reduces viscosity, making it less thick. Only a very small quantity is necessary; for example, 1 gram lecithin per kilogram (2.2 pounds) for white chocolate, slightly more for dark chocolate. Lecithin is used even in finest-quality chocolate. It is not “Kosher
for Passover,” but a Swiss company, Maestrani, exports an excellent bittersweet chocolate containing no lecithin. Their dark chocolate is pareve (containing no dairy products). See Taam-Tov Food, Inc. (page 677).

The U.S. government legislates restrictions and classifications for chocolate that dictate the type of fat and percentage of chocolate liquor used. To be classified as real chocolate, it must contain no fat other than cocoa butter (with the exception of 5 percent dairy butter to aid emulsification, which does not have to appear on the label).

PURE CHOCOLATE
Pure chocolate, also referred to as bitter, baking, or unsweetened chocolate, contains only chocolate liquor (cocoa solids and cocoa butter) and flavorings. Depending on the variety of the cocoa bean used, 50 to 58 percent of the chocolate liquor is cocoa butter, averaging 53 percent. The bulk of the remainder, the cocoa solids, contains 10.7 percent protein and 28.9 percent starch. (This is the same amount present in the nibs—the term for the cocoa beans after removal of the pod—before processing.) No lecithin may be added, but a great variety of flavorings is permissible, such as vanilla or vanillin (synthesized vanilla), ground nuts, coffee, salt, and various extracts.

COCOA
Cocoa is the pure chocolate liquor with three quarters of the cocoa butter removed. The remaining cocoa is then pulverized. Most European cocoa is Dutch-processed, which means that the cocoa has been treated with a mild alkali to mellow the flavor and make it more soluble. There is no need to sift cocoa for a recipe when it will be dissolved in water. In recipes such as Cocoa Meringue (page 575), it is advisable to process or sift the cocoa if it is lumpy so it will incorporate more evenly.

My favorite Dutch-processed cocoa is Lindt’s, from Switzerland, which, unfortunately, is not currently available in this country. It comes in dark and light (I prefer the dark). Valrhona cocoa (New York Cake and Baking Distributors, page 677) is another top favorite, with rich chocolate flavor and relatively higher cocoa butter content. Pernigotti from Italy (available through Williams-Sonoma, page 677), DeZann (Albert Uster, page 675), and Van Houten are also excellent Dutch-processed cocoas, though not as intense as Valrhona. Smelling the cocoa will tell you a lot about its flavor potential, but the best test is baking with it. The flavor is a result both of the type of cocoa beans used and the degree of roasting.

BITTERSWEET OR SEMISWEET AND EXTRA-BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE
Bittersweet or semisweet, and extra-bittersweet (for which there is no U.S. government standard), are pure chocolate liquor with sugar, vanilla or vanillin, extra cocoa butter, and lecithin added. Semisweet morsels have to be more viscous to maintain their shape during baking. Every manufacturer has his oven terminology or formula for this category of chocolate. Bittersweet, semisweet, and extra-bittersweet can be used interchangeably in recipes, but their sweetness levels will vary. The higher the amount of cocoa mass (cocoa solids and cocoa butter), the lower the amount of sugar. Several manufacturers are producing a very bitter chocolate with 70 percent
cocoa mass, including Lindt’s 70% Excellence and Valrhona’s Guanaja. These chocolates are very useful for adding to sweetened mixtures that benefit from the “tempering” of a low-sugar chocolate. Valrhonas’s Extra Bitter has 67 percent cocoa mass and is perfect for any recipe, such as ganache or pastry cream, for those who appreciate an intense but bittersweet flavor. Valrhona’s Caracque has 56 percent cocoa mass, which is very similar to that of Lindt’s regular Excellence bar.

COUVERTURE
Used for candy dipping and some decorative work, in Europe, couverture is made from the highest-quality real chocolate, which has a high percentage of cocoa butter, resulting in low viscosity and subsequently a thin coating and a glossy sheen when used for dipping or decorations. There is no U.S. standard for couverture, but in Europe, couverture must have a minimum of 36 percent cocoa butter and may have as much as 40 percent. Japanese couverture may have as much as 42 percent.

MILK CHOCOLATE
Milk chocolate contains pure chocolate liquor, milk solids, butter, vanilla or vanillin, extra cocoa butter, and lecithin. Milk chocolate does not have as long a shelf life as dark chocolate because the milk solids can become rancid (though not as quickly as in white chocolate, due to the protective presence of cocoa solids).

WHITE CHOCOLATE
White chocolate is not considered to be “real chocolate” by the United States Department of Agriculture because it contains no cocoa solids. Better-quality white chocolates are, however, made with cocoa butter and have a delicious flavor. White chocolate contains about 30 percent fat, 30 percent milk solids, and 30 percent sugar. It also contains vanilla or vanillin and lecithin. When melted, it sets faster than dark chocolate, but it is softer at room temperature. Its shelf life is much shorter than dark chocolate because of the milk solids.

A small amount of melted white chocolate is great in an emergency to thicken pastry cream. This small amount of white chocolate adds firmness without significantly altering the character of the mixture.

COMPOUND CHOCOLATE
In the United States, compound chocolate is classified as chocolate “flavor” because, instead of cocoa butter, it contains vegetable shortening such as soya, palm kernel, or coconut oil. This type of fat is more stable than cocoa butter and does not require tempering to prevent bloom (discoloration). It also gives the chocolate a higher melting point, which means it will remain unmelted at warmer temperatures. For this reason, it is sometimes referred to as “summer coating.” Its taste is acceptable and some people find it delicious (they can’t have tasted the real thing!), but it lacks the complexity and fullness of fine-quality chocolate. Still, for small decorative touches, such as chocolate leaves, when you don’t have the time to temper chocolate, it is a joy to have on hand.

Compound chocolate is produced in many colors. It is available at candy supply houses and by mail through New York Cake and Baking Distributors (page 677). Albert Uster Imports (page 675) carries my favorite dark compound chocolate,
called Carma Glaze. It is very dark and lustrous and comes in 13.25-pound blocks.

AVERAGE CHOCOLATE MASS AND COCOA BUTTER CONTENT

Chocolate mass
refers to the total amount of cocoa solids and cocoa butter.

cocoa (breakfast cocoa, usually Dutch-processed):
22 to 25 percent cocoa butter

cocoa (regular, usually nonalkalized):
10 to 21 percent cocoa butter

bitter or unsweetened baking chocolate (pure chocolate liquor):
50 to 58 percent cocoa butter, averaging 53 percent

couverture chocolate:
60 to 78 percent chocolate mass, of which 36 to 40 percent is cocoa butter

extra bittersweet chocolate:
60 percent chocolate mass, of which 30 percent is cocoa butter

semisweet or bittersweet chocolate:
49.5 to 53 percent chocolate mass, of which 27 percent is cocoa butter; U.S. government standards require a minimum of 35 percent chocolate liquor

semisweet bits:
42.5 percent chocolate mass, of which 29 percent is cocoa butter

sweet chocolate:
34 percent chocolate mass, of which 27 percent is cocoa butter; U.S. government standards require a minimum of 29 percent chocolate liquor

milk chocolate:
34 to 38 percent chocolate mass, of which 29 to 33 percent is cocoa butter, plus 12 percent whole milk solids; U.S. government standards require a minimum of 10 percent chocolate liquor

STORING CHOCOLATE
The best way to store chocolate or cocoa is to keep it well wrapped in an airtight container (chocolate is quick to absorb odors and must not be exposed to dampness) at a temperature of 60° to 75°R, with less than 50 percent relative humidity. Under these conditions, dark chocolate should keep well for at least 2 years. I have tasted chocolate stored at ideal conditions for several years and it seems to age like a fine wine, becoming more mellow and subtle. Milk chocolate keeps, even at optimum conditions, for only a little over 1 year, and white chocolate about 1 year.

CREAM OF TARTAR
Cream of tartar, or potassium acid tartrate, is a by-product of the wine industry. Its shelf life is indefinite. I have found that adding 1 teaspoon cream of tartar per 1 cup egg whites (
teaspoon per egg white), stabilizes them so that it becomes virtually impossible to dry them out by overbeating. Cream of tartar is also used as an “interfering agent” in sugar syrups for making caramel, to inhibit crystallization.

CINNAMON
I have Richard Sax to thank for introducing me to Penzeys, Ltd. (page 677), purveyors of over two hundred fifty spices, herbs, and seasonings. They carry seven different varieties of cinnamon, including the subtle but complex Ceylon cinnamon and the finest stronger and sweeter cassia cinnamon from Vietnam. All their cinnamon is aromatically fresh.

DAIRY AND EGGS

BUTTER
Butter is one of my favorite flavors. The best fresh, unsalted butter has the flowery, grassy smell of a summer meadow. One of the most enjoyable ways to experience butter is in a pastry or pie crust.

Salted butter does not have the glorious flavor of fresh unsalted butter. If only salted butter is available, remove 1 teaspoon of salt from the recipe per pound of butter used.

It is possible to make your own butter from cream, but if only ultrapasteurized cream is available, it may not be worth the trouble. Commercial butter is made from cream with a very high butterfat content and is churned immediately after flash pasteurization. This ensures the best flavor and longest shelf life. If you make your own butter, it will stay fresh for only 1 week.

To make butter:
Place heavy cream in a food processor and process until it begins to thicken. For every cup of cream, add 2 tablespoons cold water. Process until the cream separates into solids. Strain out the liquid (this unsoured buttermilk is delicious to drink) and dry the resulting butter thoroughly with paper towels. One cup of cream yields about 3 ounces of butter.

When buying commercial butter, keep in mind that grade A or AA contains about 81 percent fat, 15.5 percent water, and 0.6 percent protein. Lower grades contain more water, which will have a detrimental effect when making dough. Plugrá butter or French butter has less water, so it stays pliant even when cold, making it ideal for pastries where the butter is rolled into the dough in layers, such as croissant and Danish pastry. Two indications that the water content is high are that the refrigerated butter remains fairly soft and that, when the butter is cut, small droplets of water appear. Excess water can be removed by kneading the butter in ice water for several minutes and then drying it thoroughly with paper towels.

Store butter airtight, as it absorbs odors very readily. Avoid wrapping directly in foil, as the butter may absorb a metallic taste. Butter freezes well for several months. Be sure to let it defrost completely before clarifying it, or it may burn instead of brown.

CLARIFIED BUTTER
Some recipes in this book call for clarified
beurre noisette.
This refers to clarified butter that has browned to the color of
noisettes
(French for hazelnuts). Beurre noisette offers a richer, more delicious flavor.