Pie and Pastry Bible (185 page)

Turn down the top and secure it with a staple. (Figure 7) Tape the outside seam of the bag. Use a small strip of tape near the point end. This will keep the cone from unfolding and the filling from coming out the side. (Figure 8)

If piping chocolate, cut off the tiniest amount possible from the tip. If piping icing, make an opening from the tube by clipping off ¾ inch from the tip. (Figure 9) Too large a hole will allow the tube to fall through; too small, and the parchment will cut off part of the tube’s design. Make the cut slightly curved, so the opening will be round and icing will not creep out around the edges.

Drop the tube into the cone, narrow end first, and push it down firmly to make sure the tip is exposed. The weight of the filling will hold it securely in place.

To fill the cone, hold it near the bottom and use a long spatula to fill it with the piping mixture. (See Filling the Pastry Bag, pages 618-619.) Fill it half full, removing the filling from the spatula by pinching it between your thumb and fingers from the outside of the bag while withdrawing the spatula. Or, if using melted chocolate, simply pour it in.

Parchment cones must be closed tightly to keep the icing from escaping through the top. To close the cone, first smooth the top flat, using the side of your hand to force the icing toward the tip. Then fold in each side and roll down the top until it is close to the filling. Lock your thumb over the top with your remaining fingers curled around the side.

PASTRY CLOTH AND SLEEVE AND PLASTIC WRAP
A canvas pastry cloth and knitted cotton rolling pin sleeve are very helpful for rolling out dough while adding just the minimum amount of flour to prevent sticking. I don’t use a pastry cloth with a hem when rolling the dough under
inch thick because the hemmed edge is thicker and raises the pin too high. Pastry cloths and sleeves are available at specialty stores such as Fante and from the King Arthur catalogue. My favorite cloth, Jacobs of Willmar, is round and comes with a board (page 675).

If rolling the dough between sheets of plastic wrap, I prefer the Saran brand of plastic wrap because it is very smooth and does not tend to get caught up in the dough. It is also ideal for wrapping things for storage because it is absolutely airtight.

MARBLE SLAB
No surface beats marble or granite for rolling out pie dough and pastry. Its coolness helps to keep the fat firm, which is essential to prevent it from being absorbed into the flour and thereby losing its flakiness or layering. On a very hot day, ice can be applied to a marble counter and then wiped dry. The marble will hold its coolness for a long while. An alternative and practical solution to a marble counter is to purchase a marble slab. Gourmet equipment stores often carry one that is 18 inches square, an excellent size for most pie crust and pastry. It is lightweight enough to lift easily and can be placed in the refrigerator to chill before using. Marble suppliers often have scraps that they will cut to size and finish for a reasonable price. Choose white or a light color that shows any dirt to make it easier to clean and prevent any foreign matter from ending up in the dough. Be careful not to allow citrus juice or alcohol to spill on the marble, as it will stain it and spoil the finish.

PIE BASKETS
The most beautiful, hand-woven maple pie baskets are made by Longaberger, in Ohio (page 675). They are woven double thickness for durability and are designed to be heirlooms. A pie presented in one of these baskets would make a memorable house gift. My favorite is the “small picnic” #11029,12 inches by 12 inches by 6 inches.

NUTCRACKER
The “Perfect-a-Nut” Nutcracker is a unique Czech-designed nutcracker that easily cracks walnuts
and pecans, leaving the nutmeat in whole pieces. It also functions as the ideal champagne opener.

Nutcracker

CHERRY PITTER
I have tried many devices of varying prices and the one that works the best is the common old-fashioned metal hairpin! It ensures that every pit has been removed, as it is done one at a time, and it maintains the shape of the cherry. Purchase large sturdy hairpins. “Jumbo metal hairpins” are available through the Vermont Country Store (page 676). A great idea I learned when I worked at the famed chocolatier Bernachon, in Lyon, was to insert the ends of the hairpin into a cork. A champagne cork works especially well, as its rounded head fits right into the palm of your hand, making it more comfortable to use. Make the holes with a small awl or nail, insert the ends of the hairpin and press it in firmly.

POPPY SEED GRINDER
This adorable old-fashioned hand grinder looks like a miniature meat grinder. It is a luxury specialty item, but does it do the job! That is because it is designed expressly to grind poppy seeds uniformly into a fine fluff without risk of causing the oils to exude. If you are a lover of poppy seeds, this functional little item is a must (King Arthur catalogue and Miracle Exclusives, page 675).

Poppy seed grinder

PROPANE TORCH
Finally, fire for the pastry chef without making one feel like a welder on a construction site! The miniature torch from Williams-Sonoma (page 676) provides the professional way to caramelize cræme brûlée, brown meringue, and heat the sides of tart pans for perfect unmolding.

Propane torch

PIE BIRDS
I have had one of these ceramic figurines for years and I have used it once. I’d rather collect them as decorations and, in fact, there are even pie bird collector clubs! The purpose of a pie bird is to create and maintain a fanciful opening in the upper crust of the pie for the steam and bubbling juices to vent. I find they are impractical, as they displace too much of the pie’s filling, and slashing or cutting the dough will accomplish the same thing.

PRESENTATION PLATES
When I ordered a special acrylic tiered stand from the Van Horn-Hayward company in Texas (page 676), and told them my plan for it, they titled it the “Pie in the Sky” stand. The magic of this acrylic stand is that it all but disappears from sight, giving the tarts the illusion of floating in air. These stands can be custom-ordered in whatever size or shape one desires. The sizes needed for the Chocolate and Peanut Mousse Seven-Tier Holiday Tart (page 316) are: 4
inches, 5 inches, 7
inches, 8
inches, 9¾ inches, 10½ inches, and
12
inches. (This is the measurement of the bottom of each tart pan.) The spacers are 2¾ inches high.