Pie and Pastry Bible (186 page)

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Authors: Rose Levy Beranbaum

BOOK: Pie and Pastry Bible
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Seven-tier acrylic pie or tart stand

RACKS
My favorite wire cooling racks are round wire racks from France. The wires are closer together than most, offering more support for smaller pastries.

ROLLING PINS
I have tried many rolling pins, including a hollow one designed to be filled with ice cubes to keep the pastry cold (it causes condensation on the outside of the pin) and a stainless steel one guaranteed not to stick to the dough (it sticks).

Pie rack

I collect rolling pins. Antique wooden ones, too warped to roll evenly, make wonderful wall decorations. One of my greatest prizes is a green bottle-glass rolling pin. But the rolling pin I reach for the most often is my solid white plastic pin from France. It is 1¾ inches in diameter and almost 20 inches long. The plastic makes it easy to wash without risk of warping (La Cuisine, page 675). I also enjoy using the
tutove
French rolling pin when rolling puff pastry (La Cuisine). Its ridges help to distribute the butter evenly throughout the dough.

ROLLING PIN SPACERS
One of my favorite and most used pastry gadgets is a simple clever device that slips onto a rolling pin and determines the exact thickness of the dough. Called Rolling Pin Rubber Rings, four pairs of rings slip onto each end of the pin, raising it from the counter a precise distance according to the thickness of the rings selected. The thickness of the dough is determined by the space between the pin and the counter. Available at specialty stores such as Fante and from the King Arthur catalogue (page 675).

Rolling pins

SPATULAS AND STIRRING DEVICES
A small metal spatula with a narrow 4-inch blade and wooden handle is one of the most often used implements in my kitchen. It is perfect for leveling dry ingredients in measuring spoons and for dislodging crust from the sides of pans.

Small and large angled or offset spatulas are handy for spreading mixtures evenly in pans or for lifting small pastries.

Small spatula

Offset spatula

High-heat spatula

I can’t imagine doing without my array of small and large Rubbermaid spatulas. Nothing takes their place for scraping bowls, and they are also useful for folding together mixtures. As they retain odors, I have a separate set designated for baking. I adore the new high-heat spatulas for stirring hot mixtures up to 500°F. They are considerably thicker, so work less well for scraping and folding, but the handles stay cool to the touch and they can even be used for caramel. The white stirring blade makes it easy to see the color of the caramel (New York Cake and Baking Distributors and King Arthur catalogue, page 675).

PORCELAIN SPOONS
These spoons, made of French porcelain, are designed to be tasting spoons because they don’t conduct heat and they don’t absorb odors. These qualities also make them perfect for stirring hot liquids and for use in the microwave oven. I especially like to use porcelain spoons for making caramel. As with the high-heat spatulas, it’s easier to see the true color of the caramel against the white of the porcelain (La Cuisine, page 675).

Porcelain spoon

SPUN SUGAR DEVICES
I have never seen a tool sold specifically for making angel hair. In France, pastry chefs make their own by cutting the loops of a whisk with wire cutters. I used to make one by bending the tines of a cake breaker, designed for cutting angel food cake, in opposing directions. More cumbersome, but also effective, are two Porcelain spoon forks held back to back.

WHISKS
I have whisks of all sizes and shapes, but there are only two I find indispensable: a balloon whisk, measuring 14¼ inches in circumference, for folding mixtures together with the least loss of air; and a small piano wire whisk, 10 inches long and 5 inches in circumference, which has at least 8 loops of fine wire that will reach into the corners of a saucepan, making it ideal both for preparing a smooth pastry cream and for evenly mixing together dry ingredients (La Cuisine, page 675).

STRAINERS
An extra-fine-mesh stainless steel strainer is indispensable for evenly dusting powdered sugar or cocoa onto pastries and for straining the solids from
clarified butter. Simply tap the side with a spoon or use the spoon to press the powdered sugar or cocoa through the fine openings. (A mesh tea caddy with a handle also works well if only partially filled.)

Cut-off whisk

Balloon whisk

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