Pie and Pastry Bible (59 page)

EQUIPMENT

A 9-inch pie pan and a piano wire whisk (one with 10 loops of wire; see page 627)

Make the dough (page 25). Roll (see page 8), shape (see page 13), and prebake it (see page 18). Let cool.

MAKE THE FILLING

Chill a bowl for the whipped cream. Have ready near the range a strainer set over a medium bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, cocoa, cornstarch, and ¼ cup of the milk until smooth.

In a medium nonreactive heavy saucepan, stir together the remaining 2¾ cups of milk, the sugar, and salt. Over medium heat, bring the mixture to a full boil. With the piano whisk, whisk ¼ cup of this hot mixture into the egg mixture. Whisk the egg mixture into the milk mixture. Cook, continuing to whisk rapidly, being sure to go into the edge of the pan, until the mixture thickens and pools a little when dropped on the surface.

Remove it from the heat and whisk in the chocolate and butter. Continue whisking until the chocolate has melted and the mixture is smooth. Whisk in the vanilla extract. Using a rubber spatula, immediately press the mixture through the strainer and place a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the cream to prevent a skin from forming. Allow it to cool to room temperature, or refrigerate until cold, about 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Pour the chocolate filling into the baked pie shell. It will fill the shell up to the top. Place a piece of greased plastic wrap directly on the surface and refrigerate the pie for at least 3 hours.

MAKE THE TOPPING

In the chilled bowl, combine the heavy cream, optional Cobasan, and sugar and beat until soft peaks form when the beater is raised slowly. Add the vanilla and beat until stiff peaks form. Remove the plastic wrap from the pie and mound the topping evenly over the chocolate filling.

If desired, using a wooden skewer to lift them, gently place the chocolate curls on the whipped cream. Garnish with a few raspberries.

VARIATION

For a less bittersweet, more milk chocolate filling, replace the milk with half-andhalf, decrease the sugar to ½ cup (3.5 ounces/100 grams), omit the cocoa, and increase the chocolate to 10 ounces/284 grams.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 3 days (without the whipped cream, unless the whipped cream has been stabilized with Cobasan).

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

A heavy well-insulated pan is essential to keep the filling from scorching.

A 10-loop piano wire whisk is practically indispensable to prevent lumps from forming in the finished chocolate cream

Do not beat the filling vigorously after cooling, or it will break down.

This pie does not travel well unless the whipped cream is mounded after reaching the destination.

UNDERSTANDING

This filling is actually a pastry cream with two thirds the usual amount of cornstarch and eggs, as the cocoa and the chocolate, which hardens on refrigeration, add substantial thickening. Unlike ordinary pastry cream, the filling is strained after thickening because the chocolate is added at the end, and the chocolate particles become smoother after straining. Less sugar is added because it is not being combined with tart fruit.

TAHITIAN VANILLA CHEESECAKE TART

T
he filling for this tart is a heavenly cheesecake batter prepared with cræme fraîche and the floral Tahitian vanilla bean. It is poured into a deeply fluted high tart pan that has been lined with a sugar cookie crust. During the long slow baking required to set the filling to creamy perfection, the crust becomes nut-brown and crisp. This tart is at once elegant, subtle, and powerful. Though rich, it cuts cleanly, making it possible to serve as many as twenty portions for a dessert party or after a filling holiday meal.

EQUIPMENT

A 10- by 2-inch tart pan with a removable bottom

OVEN TEMPERATURE: 350°F. • BAKING TIME: 45 MINUTES (PLUS 1 HOUR WITH THE OVEN OFF) SERVES: 8 TO 20
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
*A 10-inch Springform pan can be substituted, but the tart will be less attractive. The baked shell must be a minimum of 1¼ inches high to contain all the filling.
†Either yellow or chocolate. You can replace this with packaged angel food or sponge cake.
Sweet Cookie Tart Crust for a 10- by 2-inch tart (page 57), prebaked and cooled*	1 generous cup	10.75 ounces	307 grams
Lemon Curd (page 568), or store-bought, preferably Tiptree, or apricot preserves	3 tablespoons	1.75 ounces	50 grams
one 8½ to 9-inch by ¼-inch Light Sponge Cake Layer (page 583)†	•	•
Cheesecake Filling cream cheese, softened	1 cup + 2½ tablespoons	10.5 ounces	300 grams
sugar	cup	4.6 ounces	132 grams
cornstarch	2 teaspoons	• 6 grams
2 large eggs 3 fluid ounces	3-5 ounces	100 grams (weighed without the shells)
freshly squeezed lemon juice	4 teaspoons	0.75 ounce	21 grams
pure vanilla extract	1 teaspoon	•	4 grams
salt	teaspoon	•	•
1 recipe Cræme Fraîche (page 558), made with the vanilla bean, vanilla bean reserved for garnish	2 cups	16.25 ounces	464 grams

Advance preparation:
The tart needs to chill for at least 6 hours before unmolding.

Make the dough. Roll, shape, transfer it to the pan, and prebake it (see pages 50-54). Let cool.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. at least 15 minutes before baking. Set an oven rack just below the middle level before preheating.

Brush the Lemon Curd evenly onto the bottom and ¼ inch up the sides of the baked cookie crust. Place the sponge cake layer, crust side down, into the crust.