Pie and Pastry Bible (60 page)

ELECTRIC MIXER METHOD

In a large mixer bowl, preferably with the whisk beater, beat the cream cheese, sugar, and cornstarch until very smooth (about 3 minutes). Beat in the eggs one at a time, beating until smooth and scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice. Add the lemon juice, vanilla, and salt and beat until incorporated. Beat in the cræme fraîche just until blended.

FOOD PROCESSOR METHOD

In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, process the cream cheese, sugar, and cornstarch for about 30 seconds or until smooth. Scrape down the sides. With the motor running, add the eggs and process for a few seconds until smooth. Scrape down the sides. Add the remaining ingredients, including the cræme fraîche, and pulse to combine.

Pour the batter on top of the cake layer in the prepared tart shell. It will reach almost to the top, but the center will settle slightly after baking and cooling.

Bake the cheesecake for 45 minutes. Turn off the oven, without opening the door, and let the cheesecake cool for 1 hour.

Remove it to a rack and cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate it 6 hours before unmolding (see page 251).

To serve, remove the vanilla bean and cut the tart with a knife that has been wiped and dipped in hot water between each slice.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 4 days. (The filling changes texture, becoming less smooth and creamy, on freezing.)

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

Don’t be tempted to use the more expensive “natural” cream cheese. Philadelphia brand (available even in Japan) offers the best and most consistent flavor and texture for this cake. Cream cheese without gums will aerate more, yielding more volume and less creaminess.

UNDERSTANDING

The gossamer-thin layer of sponge cake, attached with a dab of lemon curd between crust and filling, absorbs any liquid from the filling and keeps the bottom crust crunchy.

Using the whisk beater ensures even mixing. This is a dense batter, so there is no risk of beating air into it, which would cause it to puff up and crack during baking.

Baking the cheesecake in a crust serves as a perfect insulation, replacing a water bath, to keep the cheesecake filling evenly soft and creamy.

APRICOT CHEESECAKE TART

T
his tart is refreshing because of the juiciness of the apricots and the creamy-smooth unsweetened cheesecake filling. The sweetness is supplied by the apricots and the apricot glaze. Although it is delicious the day it is made, I enjoy this tart even more the following day as the flavors blend and become more mellow.

This is a terrific dessert to make in June and July, at the height of the fresh apricot season, but is equally delicious made with canned apricots.

EQUIPMENT

A 10-inch tart pan with a removable bottom

Make the dough (page 30). Roll (see page 8), shape (see page 13), and prebake it (see page 18). While it is still warm, brush it with the egg white (see page 20).

Preheat the oven to 375°F. at least 20 minutes before baking. Set an oven rack at the lowest level and place a baking stone or cookie sheet on it before preheating.

Place the apricot halves on paper towels, cut sides down, to drain well.

Place the preserves in a 2-cup heatproof glass measure and microwave for 2½ to 3 minutes or until bubbling. (Or heat them in a small saucepan, stirring often.) Stir in 1 teaspoon of the Grand Marnier and strain them into a small bowl.

Brush 2 tablespoons of this glaze onto the bottom of the crust and set the remainder aside.

In a food processor with the metal blade, process the cream cheese, cinnamon, and nutmeg until smooth. Scrape down the sides. Add the cræme fraîche or the cream, egg yolk and white, and the remaining 1 teaspoon of Grand Marnier. Process with 3 short pulses, just to mix. The mixture will be lumpy, but do not process longer. (You will have about 1
cups of filling.)

Pour about half of the filling into the prepared crust. Place the apricots on it, rounded sides up, in a single layer. Carefully pour the remaining filling around the apricots so that it doesn’t coat the tops.

Set the tart directly on the stone and bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until the cheese filling is puffed and lightly browned. Cool on a rack to room temperature.

Reheat the remainder of the strained apricot preserves and spoon evenly over the top of both the apricots and the filling. Chill for at least 1 hour before unmolding (see page 251).

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 3 days. Remove to room temperature for about 30 minutes before serving.

FIG TART WITH MASCARPONE CREAM

F
resh figs and marsala-perfumed mascarpone cream, the filling of the popular dessert tiramisù, struck me as a natural combination. I created this tart for the fresh fig lover as a variation of the Tiramisù Tart. The addition of pecans to the sweet cookie crust provides a nutty accent for the succulent figs.

EQUIPMENT

A 10-inch tart pan with a removable bottom

Make the dough (page 59). Roll, shape, transfer it to the pan, and prebake it (see pages 50-54). Let cool.

MAKE THE FILLING

Chill a small mixing bowl for the whipped cream.

Have ready near the range a rubber scraper and medium bowl.

In a large copper bowl or the upper container of a double boiler, whisk together the egg yolks, 2 tablespoons of the sugar, and the marsala. If using a copper bowl, set it directly on the burner over low heat. If using a double boiler, place the upper container over simmering water (the water should not touch the bottom of the upper container). Whisk constantly until the mixture approximately triples in volume and begins to thicken, 3 to 5 minutes. Be careful not to overcook the yolks, or they will scramble!

Immediately scrape the mixture into the medium bowl. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes or until completely cool.

In a large mixer bowl, preferably with the whisk beater, on low speed, beat the mascarpone for about 10 seconds or until creamy. Raise the speed slightly and gradually beat in the cooled egg yolk mixture until completely incorporated, scraping the sides of the bowl once or twice with a rubber spatula. Set it aside.

In a small heatproof measuring cup, place the gelatin and water and allow it to sit for 5 minutes. Set the cup in a pan of simmering water for a few minutes, stirring occasionally until the gelatin is dissolved (or microwave on high power for a few seconds, stirring once or twice). Set it aside briefly, while you beat the cream. (The mixture must still be warm or it will lump when added to the cold cream; reheat it if necessary.)

In the chilled mixing bowl, combine the heavy cream and the remaining 2 teaspoons of sugar. Beat until the cream begins to thicken. Add the vanilla extract and warm gelatin mixture and beat just until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised.

With a large rubber spatula, fold the whipped cream into the mascarpone mixture. (You will have almost 2 cups.) Scrape the mixture into the baked tart shell and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to set.

Starting at the outside edge, place the fig slices, pointed ends upward, in concentric circles on the filling, tilting the slices so they lean slightly toward the edge
of the crust in a petal-like fashion. Begin by placing the end slices of the figs around the first circle, skin side out.

SERVES: 8
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
Sweet Nut Cookie Tart Crust, made with pecans, for a 10- by 1-inch tart (page 59), prebaked	1 generous cup	10.75 ounces	307 grams
Filling 3 large egg yolks	3½ tablespoons	2 ounces	56 grams
sugar	2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons, divided	approx. 1.2 ounces	33 grams
sweet marsala	1 tablespoon	2 ounces	56 grams
mascarpone, preferably imported, at room temperature	cup	5.75 ounces	165 grams
gelatin	½ teaspoon	•	•
water	1½ teaspoons	•	•
heavy cream	liquid cup	2.75 ounces	77 grams
pure vanilla extract	¾ teaspoon	•	•
Topping fresh black figs (about 21), cut lengthwise into ¼-inch slices	approx. 4 cups	17.3 ounces	495 grams
Glaze freshly squeezed lemon juice	1 tablespoon	0.5 ounce	16 grams
water	1 tablespoon	0.5 ounce	15 grams
sugar	2 tablespoons	approx. 1 ounce	25 grams
cassava or cornstarch or arrowroot	¾ 1 teaspoon	• •	2 grams 3 grams