Pie and Pastry Bible (67 page)

Have a fine strainer suspended over a medium mixing bowl ready near the range.

In a 4-cup heatproof glass measure sprayed with nonstick vegetable oil or lightly greased, microwave the orange juice for about 15 minutes on high power or until reduced to
cup (or place it in a small saucepan and boil, stirring constantly until reduced). Stir in the heavy cream and orange zest. Set it aside.

In a heavy nonreactive saucepan, with a wooden spoon, beat the yolks with the sugar until well blended.

Heat the orange juice mixture to the boiling point. Stir a few tablespoons into the yolk mixture, then gradually add the remainder, stirring constantly. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, to just below the boiling point (170° to 180°E). Steam will begin to appear and the mixture will be slightly thicker than heavy cream. If a finger is run across the back of the spoon, it will leave a well-defined track. Immediately remove it from the heat and pour it into the strainer, scraping up the thickened cream that has settled on the bottom of the pan. Discard the orange zest.

Cool by setting the bowl in a large bowl of ice water or in the refrigerator until cold, at least 2 hours, preferably overnight.

Stir in the buttermilk, Cobasan, and the optional vodka. Freeze in an ice cream maker. Allow the ice cream to ripen for at least 2 hours in the freezer before serving. If it has been held longer and is very hard, allow it to sit refrigerated or at room temperature until softened and creamy.

STORE

Frozen, up to 1 week. The ice cream has the best texture within 3 days of freezing but with the vodka will maintain its texture for up to a week.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

See page 223.

Be sure to use heavy cream that has not been ultrapasteurized, or the Cobasan will not be effective.

UNDERSTANDING

No salt is added to the base because buttermilk contains salt.

The buttermilk is added shortly before freezing instead of being heated in the custard because high heat causes it to curdle.

Doubling the quantity of Cobasan prevents ice crystals from forming.

LEMON-LUSCIOUS ICE CREAM

L
emon curd has the purest, most intense, and full-flavored lemon flavor I know, so I use it as a base for lemon ice cream. All that’s added is heavy cream and a little milk.

MAKES: ABOUT 3½ CUPS (DEPENDING ON THE ICE CREAM MAKER)
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
	VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
4 large egg yolks	scant liquid cup	2.6 ounces	74 grams
sugar	1 cup, divided	7 ounces	200 grams
finely grated lemon zest	2 teaspoons	•	4 grams
freshly squeezed lemon juice	3 fluid ounces (6 tablespoons)	3.25 ounces	94 grams
unsalted butter, softened	4 tablespoons	2 ounces	57 grams
salt	a pinch	•	•
heavy cream	1½ liquid cups	12.2 ounces	348 grams
milk	½ liquid cup	4.25 ounces	121 grams
optional: vodka	4 teaspoons	0.66 ounce	19 grams
optional: Cobasan	½ teaspoon	•	•

Have ready near the range a strainer suspended over a medium bowl.

In a heavy nonreactive saucepan, with a wooden spoon, beat the yolks and ¾ cup of the sugar until well blended. Stir in the lemon zest, juice, butter, and salt. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thickened and resembles hollandaise sauce; it should thickly coat the wooden spoon but still be liquid enough to pour. The mixture will change from translucent to opaque and begin to take on a yellow color on the back of the spoon. (An accurate thermometer will register 196°F.) The mixture must not be allowed to boil or it will curdle. Whenever steam appears, remove the pan briefly from the heat, stirring constantly to keep the mixture from boiling.

When the mixture has thickened, pour it at once into the strainer. Press with the back of a spoon until only a coarse residue remains. Discard the residue (or consider it the cook’s dividend!)..

In a medium bowl, combine the cream and milk. Whisk in the sugar until dissolved. Whisk this mixture into the curd. Cover tightly and refrigerate it for at least 1 hour or until well chilled.

Stir in the optional vodka and Cobasan. Freeze in an ice cream maker. Allow the ice cream to ripen for at least 2 hours in the freezer before serving. If it has been held longer and is very hard, allow it to sit refrigerated or at room temperature until softened and creamy.

STORE

Frozen, up to 1 week. The ice cream has the best texture within 3 days of freezing but with the vodka will maintain its texture for up to a week.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

For finely grated zest, use a zester, a vegetable peeler, or a fine grater to remove the yellow portion only of the peel. The white pith beneath is bitter. If using a zester or peeler, finish by chopping the zest with a sharp knife.

If you heat a lemon (about 10 seconds in a microwave oven on high power) and roll it around on the counter while pressing on it lightly, it will release a significantly greater quantity of juice.

To prevent curdling, be sure to mix the sugar with the yolks before adding the lemon juice.

UNDERSTANDING

The lemon zest is discarded to maintain the uninterrupted creaminess of the ice cream.

A quarter cup more sugar is used than for lemon curd alone to balance the addition of the cream and milk and to compensate for the decrease in sweetness perception caused by freezing. Only part of the sugar is added directly to the curd to keep it from becoming too thick. If using a fine-quality commercial lemon curd, such as Tiptree, add this extra ¼ cup sugar to the cream/milk mixture.

PURE PASSION ICE CREAM

M
y version of this ice cream involves making a passion fruit curd and then stirring in heavy cream, milk, and vanilla—as simple as that. The vanilla magically rounds off any of the slightly metallic astringency usually associated with passion fruit. Fresh passion fruit pulp requires a food mill or strainer to purée. Commercial frozen purée is easier to work with and my preferred choice. (If you have already made the passion fruit curd, simply add 3 tablespoons of sugar to the cream/milk.)

This ice cream is glorious served with peach pie or simply with slices of banana and a sprinkling of macadamia nuts. It can also be served with a fresh passion fruit sauce.

MAKES: ABOUT 3½ CUPS (DEPENDING ON THE ICE CREAM MAKER)
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
*If Tahitian vanilla beans are unavailable, use 1½ ordinary (Madagascar) vanilla beans, or 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract (added just before freezing).
†Commercial passion fruit purée can be substituted. Use 9 tablespoons (the same weight: 146 grams/5.25 ounces) if using Albert Uster’s. Use 6½ tablespoons (108 grams/3.75 ounces) if using Perfect Purée, which is concentrated, and increase the sugar to 1 cup.
sugar	14 tablespoons, divided	6.2 ounces	175 grams
¾ Tahitian vanilla bean, split lengthwise		•	•
4 large egg yolks	scant liquid cup	2.6 ounces	74 grams
6 to 7 passion fruit (1½ pounds), puréed†	liquid cupa	pprox. 5.25 ounces	146 grams
unsalted butter, softened or cut into pieces	4 tablespoons	2 ounces	56 grams
salt	a pinch	•	•
heavy cream	1½ liquid cups	12.25 ounces	348 grams
milk	½ liquid cup	4.25 ounces	121 grams
optional: passion fruit liqueur or vodka	5 teaspoons 1 tablespoon	approx. 0.75 ounce 0.5 ounce	25 grams 14 grams
optional: Cobasan	½teaspoon	•	•