Pie and Pastry Bible (95 page)

The filling should not come up past
inch below the top of the crust.

If using a two-piece tart pan, place it on a foil-lined baking sheet with low sides or a jelly-roll pan just in case the filling should leak.

To prevent curdling, bake only until the knife blade comes out clean.

CARAMELIZED ONION TART

T
his tart is for the onion lover. (Me, me!) It is truly amazing how, when cooked very slowly, the sugar contained in the onions caramelizes and turns the onions a deep golden brown. The onions cook down to less than one third their original volume. In my opinion, this method produces onions at
their most delicious. The tangy/sweet onions contrast wonderfully with the salty oil-cured olives. I borrowed them for this recipe from the
pissaladiære—
an onion tart of Provençal origin.

I like to make a lard crust, rolled out in whole wheat flour, for this tart. The crisp, crunchy texture and faintly wheaty flavor go especially well with the filling. The butter flavor and firmer texture of a flaky butter crust or cream cheese crust would also be great.

As this tart, like quiche Lorraine, is an Alsatian specialty, it goes without saying that a Riesling would be a fine accompaniment. Its tart/fruity quality also balances perfectly with the tart/sweetness of the onion.

EQUIPMENT

A 9½-inch tart pan with a removable bottom

Make the dough (page 41). Roll, shape, and partially prebake it (see page 251). While the crust is still warm, brush it with the egg white (see page 20).

In a large heavy sauté pan or skillet, heat the oil and butter over low heat until bubbling. Add the onions and sprinkle with the sugar, salt, and pepper. Cover tightly and cook, without stirring, over the lowest possible heat for about 45 minutes. The onions will be soft and their liquid will have been exuded.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400°F. at least 20 minutes before baking. Set an oven rack at the lowest level before preheating.

Raise the heat under the onions to medium, uncover the pan, and continue cooking, stirring often, until all liquid has evaporated and the onions are deep gold in color. Turn down the heat to low. Add the garlic and thyme and cook for 3 minutes, stirring often. Remove from the heat.

Fill the tart shell with the onion mixture. Sprinkle evenly with the Gruyære and arrange the olives decoratively on top. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until the cheese is melted and the top is deeply browned.

Unmold the tart (see page 251). Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

VARIATION

CARAMELIZED ONION TART WITH CUSTARD
The addition of a small amount of custard serves to bind together the onions and makes the overall effect somewhat more mellow. For this version, simply beat together ½ cup half-and-half and 1 large egg. Pour it over the onion mixture before sprinkling with the Gruyære. Bake at 375°F., rather than 400 °F., for 15 minutes, as the custard requires more gentle heat.

STORE

Room temperature, up to 1 day.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

To slice the onions, I use a food processor with a 1-millimeter slicing blade.

Slow cooking results in the unique sweetness and flavor of the onions.

UNDERSTANDING

The texture of the onions is dependent on the way in which the onion is cut. If chopped, they would not develop the same flavor and texture. If sliced whole (into rings), the cooked onions are difficult to cut and to eat in a neat manner.

The 7 cups of onions reduce to only 2 cups, which means an intense concentration of flavor.

The tart crust is only partially baked because there is no liquid or custard in the filling, so starting with a fully baked crust would make the tart dry.

ROASTED RED PEPPER AND POBLANO QUICHE

T
his quiche has Southwestern flavors with a mild spiciness. If you do not share my love of the slightly smoky, faintly fiery poblano pepper, substitute an equal volume of sweet red peppers. For flavor and texture, I like to use a high proportion of peppers to custard. Their bright red and green colors offer an eye-catching contrast against the golden custard. Any leftover quiche is at least as tasty the following day, reheated or at room temperature.

OVEN TEMPERATURE: 350 °F. • BAKING TIME: 35 TO 40 MINUTES SERVES: 6
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
Flaky Pastry for a 9½-inch tart, preferably Cheddar or lard (page 39 or 41), prebaked and still warm		13 ounces	370 grams
½ large egg white, lightly beaten	1 tablespoon	0.5 ounce	15 grams
olive oil	1 tablespoon	0.5 ounce	13 grams
½ small onion, chopped cup	1.5 ounces	43 grams
2 large roasted red peppers, chopped (see below)	2 cups	12 ounces	340 grams
2 poblano peppers, chopped	cup	2 ounces	57 grams
1 large clove garlic, minced	2 teaspoons	0.25 ounce	7 grams
half-and-half or milk	liquid cup	5.6 ounces	160 grams
2 large eggs	3 fluid ounces	3.5 ounces 100 grams (weighed without the shells)
salt	¼ teaspoon	•	•
freshly ground black pepper	teaspoon	•	•
coarsely torn fresh cilantro or chopped fresh basil	2 tablespoons 1 tablespoon	• •	10 grams 5 grams
grated Gruyære cheese	½ cup	1.5 ounces	43 grams