Pie and Pastry Bible (96 page)

EQUIPMENT

A 9½-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom

Make the dough (page 39 or 41). Roll, shape, and prebake it (see page 251). While it is still warm, brush it with the egg white (see page 20).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. at least 15 minutes before baking. Set a rack at the lowest level and place a baking stone or cookie sheet on it before preheating.

In a medium sauté pan or skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. When hot, add the onion and sauté, stirring often, for about 3 minutes or until translucent. Add the peppers and garlic and sauté, stirring, for 1 minute. Remove the skillet from the heat and spoon the mixture into the prepared tart shell.

In a 2-cup liquid measure or a small bowl, whisk together the half-and-half, eggs, salt, and pepper just until thoroughly blended. (You will have about 1 cup.) Pour this mixture over the pepper mixture. It will come almost to the top of the crust. (The filling makes about 2¾ cups.) Sprinkle the cilantro or basil and Gruyære evenly over the top.

Place the quiche on the baking stone or sheet and bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until the filling is slightly puffed, the top is golden brown, and a thin knife blade inserted near the center comes out clean (165° to 170°F.). Allow the quiche to cool for at least 10 minutes on a rack before unmolding.

Unmold the quiche (see page 251) and serve warm or at room temperature.

STORE

Refrigerated, covered, up to 2 days. To reheat, bake for 20 minutes, uncovered, in a preheated 350°F. oven.

NOTE

To roast peppers,
wash and leave them whole. Place them on a charcoal grill or gas or electric burner over medium-low heat. (If using a gas burner, line the plate underneath with heavy-duty foil; if using an electric burner, cover the coils with foil.) Roast the peppers, turning often with tongs so as not to pierce them, for about 20 minutes or until blackened all over. Place them in a bag and allow them to sit briefly to help loosen the skin.

When cool enough to handle, cut out the cores and discard the liquid (or save it to add to soup). Using your fingers, remove the skin. Cut the peppers lengthwise in half and remove and discard the seeds. For this recipe, slice them into ¼-inch strips and then cut the strips into ¼-inch cubes.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

If using a two-piece tart pan, place it on a baking sheet with low sides or a jelly-roll pan just in case the filling should leak.

To prevent curdling, bake only until the knife blade comes out clean.

UNDERSTANDING

The peppers must be roasted whole so that steam contained inside keeps them from drying.

CREAMY AND SPICY CRAB TARTLETS

T
he filling for this exciting appetizer comes from Master Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, of his restaurant, Nobu, in New York City. Nobu is renowned for his creative fusion of Japanese and Western ingredients.

These little tartlets contain fresh crabmeat napped with a spicy flavorful mayonnaise sauce. The small amount of tobanjan (hot bean paste) in the sauce adds more than a mild fire. It also has a unique slightly fermented flavor. The fish eggs contribute the perfect amount of saltiness and intriguing crunchy crackle.

Three-inch tarts are the smallest that I find convenient to make and are a perfect size for an appetizer, with this rich filling. Also, this size tart is easier to eat by hand. If desired, they can certainly be made smaller to pass with cocktails. But even at three inches, they are sturdy enough to be hand-held. The crisp whole wheat crust is a lovely taste and textural contrast.

OVEN TEMPERATURE: 350 °F. • BAKING TIME: 7 TO 10 MINUTES SERVES: 6
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
* Available in Asian markets. Use the larger amount if you like things on the hot side.
†Available in Asian markets. If omitting these or the caviar, add salt to taste.
½ recipe Flaky Pastry, preferably whole wheat (page 24), prebaked in six 3-inch tartlet pans and still warm		4-5 ounces	128 grams
½ large egg white, lightly beaten	1 tablespoon	0.5 ounce	15 grams
mayonnaise	cup	2.5 ounces	72 grams
minced tobanjan (Szechwan hot bean paste)	½ to 1 teaspoon	•	•
minced scallions (white part only)	2 teaspoons	0.3 ounce	9 grams
smelt eggs† or red lumpfish caviar	2 teaspoons	•	8 grams
fresh lump crabmeat	¾ cup	4.5 ounces	128 grams

EQUIPMENT

Six 3-inch fluted tart pans with removable bottoms

Make the dough (page 24). Roll, shape, and prebake it (see page 251). While it is still warm, brush it with the egg white (see page 20). Unmold the tart shells.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. at least 15 minutes before baking. Set an oven rack at the middle level before preheating.

MAKE THE FILLING

In a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, bean paste, and scallions. Gently stir in the smelt eggs or caviar. Cover tightly and refrigerate until ready to use. (The filling can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to 24 hours.)

Pick through the crab, removing any cartilage. Place 2 tablespoons of crab in each tartlet shell. Spread about 1 tablespoon of the filling evenly on top of each.

Set the tartlets on a baking sheet. Bake for 7 to 10 minutes or until the topping sets and dulls. Serve hot or warm.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

The bean paste is minced to reduce any large pieces of bean and chili, which would result in an uneven distribution of spiciness.

To make as a 9½-inch tart, double all the ingredients and bake for about 15 minutes.

SPRING WINDFALL MOREL QUICHE

I
would never have thought I could find enough morel mushrooms to make a quiche featuring them, but May 1996 was a bumper harvest for morels. I found a record total of eight and a quarter pounds of them within the short two-week season at my country home in New Jersey. Two had heads larger than a tennis ball. Normally I dry the morels, which intensifies their flavor, but with an unexpected embarrassment of riches, I was prompted to create this recipe. It is also delicious with the more affordable and readily available fresh shiitake mushroom.

This quiche is mostly butter-sautéed morels, with a mere film of flavorful custard to hold them together. The concentrated chicken stock in the custard intensifies the backwoodsy bouquet of the mushrooms and the slightly sweet/acid Riesling elevates the taste to the addictive category.