Ready for Dessert (10 page)

MAKES 12 INDIVIDUAL CAKES

During a baking demonstration, I once inadvertently blurted out, “I don’t like sweet things,” at which point the room erupted with laughter. I didn’t quite see what was so funny until someone pointed out that I was making desserts. Well, yes. I was.

But it’s true—I don’t really like oversweet desserts. I adore caramel and toffee more than anyone, but I like them paired with something to balance the sweetness. Sticky toffee pudding is the Holy Grail for toffee lovers. My version is topped with slices of kumquats as a puckery counterpoint to the gooey-rich sweet toffee.

DATES

4 ounces (115 g) dates, pitted and diced

½ cup (125 ml) water

½ teaspoon baking soda

TOFFEE SAUCE

2 cups (500 ml) heavy cream

½ cup (120 g) packed dark brown sugar

2½ tablespoons (40 ml) mild-flavored molasses

Big pinch of salt

18 large kumquats, sliced and seeded

CAKES

1⅓ cups (185 g) all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons (2 ounces/60 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

⅔ cup (130 g) granulated sugar

2 large eggs, at room temperature

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

To prepare the dates, in a small saucepan, bring the dates and water to a boil. Remove from the heat and mix in the baking soda. Let stand for 10 minutes, then mash the dates with a fork until they’re almost smooth but still a bit lumpy. Set aside.

To make the toffee sauce, in a medium saucepan, bring the cream, brown sugar, molasses, and salt to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Once boiling, decrease the heat and simmer until the mixture is thick enough to coat a spoon or spatula, about 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool for a few minutes.

Put a scant tablespoon of toffee sauce in each cup of a standard 12-cup nonstick muffin tin (you will have some sauce left over). Arrange the kumquat slices in a pinwheel pattern over the sauce in the muffin tins.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).

To make the cakes, in a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a bowl by hand), beat together the butter and granulated sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, then add the vanilla and continue to beat until thoroughly combined. Stir in half of the flour mixture until barely mixed in, then stir in the mashed dates. Fold in the remaining flour mixture, stirring just until incorporated. Don’t overmix. Divide the batter among the cups of the muffin tin and smooth the tops slightly.

Bake until just set, about 25 minutes. Remove the muffin tin from the oven and invert the cakes onto a sturdy nonreactive baking sheet. Push them together so that they’re touching each other.

Position the oven rack near the top of the oven and preheat the broiler. While the broiler is heating, ladle the remaining toffee sauce over the cakes, dousing them well.

When the broiler is hot, put the cakes in the oven, leaving the door ajar. Broil until sizzling hot and the sauce is really bubbling, about 5 minutes (the time will vary depending on the strength of your broiler, so keep an eye on the cakes.)

Remove the puddings from the oven and place them on a serving platter or on individual plates. Scrape the sauce from the baking sheet over them.

SERVING:
Serve warm with a dollop of
whipped cream
or, better yet,
Vanilla Ice Cream
.

STORAGE:
Sticky toffee pudding demands to be served warm. The puddings can be made up to 2 days in advance and kept at room temperature, well wrapped; hold off dousing them with the remaining sauce until just before broiling.

VARIATION:
If you can’t find kumquats, or if they’re not in season, you can make the recipe without them for more traditional sticky toffee puddings.

MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) CHEESECAKE; 12 TO 14 SERVINGS

This recipe uses canned pumpkin rather than home-cooked fresh pumpkin simply because the moisture content is consistent and no one wants to take any chances with a cheesecake after spending all that money on cream cheese. This is a fantastic holiday recipe, and as with regular cheesecakes, the secret to great results is to begin with all the ingredients at room temperature and to not overbeat the filling.

CRUST

1½ cups (150 g) pecans, toasted

3 tablespoons (45 g) packed light brown sugar

3 tablespoons (1½ ounces/45 g) unsalted or salted butter, melted

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

FILLING

1½ pounds (675 g) cream cheese, at room temperature

1¼ cups (250 g) granulated sugar

Grated zest of ½ lemon, preferably organic

4 large eggs, at room temperature

2 tablespoons (15 g) all-purpose flour

½ cup (120 g) plain whole-milk yogurt

1 can (15 ounces/425 g) pumpkin purée

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¾ teaspoon ground ginger

¼ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

Large pinch of salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

TOPPING

6 tablespoons (3 ounces/85 g) salted butter, cut into small pieces

½ cup (125 ml) heavy cream

1 cup (215 g) packed dark brown sugar

¼ cup (60 ml) light corn syrup or agave nectar

½ teaspoon salt

¼ cup (60 ml) whiskey

1½ cups (150 g) pecan pieces, toasted

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Lightly butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23-cm) springform pan.

To make the crust, in a food processor fitted with the metal blade, pulse the 1½ cups (150 g) pecans, light brown sugar, 3 tablespoons (1½ ounces/45 g) melted butter, and ¼ teaspoon cinnamon until the nuts are in fine pieces and the mixture begins to hold together. Transfer the mixture to the prepared springform pan and press it evenly into the bottom and a little way up the sides. Bake until deep golden brown, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely.

Wrap a large sheet of aluminum foil around the outside of the springform pan, making sure it’s absolutely watertight. Set the pan in a large roasting pan.

To make the filling, in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a bowl by hand), beat together the cream cheese, granulated sugar, and lemon zest on medium-low speed just until smooth. Add the eggs, one at a time, stopping the mixer and scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed, until completely incorporated. Mix in the yogurt, pumpkin, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, large pinch of salt, and vanilla until combined.

Scrape the filling into the crust in the pan. Pour hot water into the roasting pan to reach halfway up the outside of the springform pan. Bake until the edges are just set and the center still quivers, about 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Remove the roasting pan from the oven and let the cheesecake stand in the water bath for 30 minutes. Dip the blade of a sharp knife in hot water and run it around the sides of the cheesecake to loosen it from the sides of the pan, then remove the cheesecake from the water bath. Let cool completely, then cover and refrigerate until chilled.

To make the topping, in a medium saucepan, bring the 6 tablespoons (3 ounces/85 g) salted butter, the cream, dark brown sugar, corn syrup or agave nectar, and ½ teaspoon salt to a gentle but full boil stirring gently until the sugar dissolves. Cook for 2 minutes without stirring. Remove from the heat and stir in the whiskey and 1½ cups (150 g) pecan pieces. Let cool to room temperature and stir in the lemon juice.

Serve the cheesecake chilled or at room temperature. Cut into wedges and spoon topping over each serving.

STORAGE:
The cheesecake can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. The topping should be made the day of serving; if chilled, it will lose its shine and will need to be rewarmed.

MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) CAKE; 12 SERVINGS

American cheesecake is to Italian cheesecake what slouching around the house in a sweatshirt and jeans is to stepping out on the town in a tailored Armani suit. When I stopped comparing Italian cheesecake to its comfy American cousin, I was finally won over. Made with ricotta cheese instead of pounds of cream cheese and sour cream, it’s lighter and leaner, and perfectly accompanied by fresh fruit compotes or colorful sauces. For best results, use whole-milk ricotta cheese. Or even better, seek out fresh ricotta from a local producer. And be sure to watch it carefully during baking, taking it out when it is just barely set.

½ cup (80 g) golden raisins

3 tablespoons (45 ml) Marsala or port (ruby or tawny)

2 pounds (1 kg) ricotta cheese

⅔ cup (130 g) sugar

¼ cup (60 ml) heavy cream

5 large eggs, at room temperature

¾ teaspoon aniseed

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Grated zest of 1 orange, preferably organic

Soft-Candied Citrus Peel
made with oranges, for garnish

In a small saucepan, bring the raisins and Marsala or port to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover, and set aside for about 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23-cm) springform pan.

In a large bowl, mix together the ricotta, sugar, and cream until well combined. Stir in the eggs one at a time.

Crush the aniseed in a mortar and pestle or seal them inside a sturdy plastic bag and crush them with a rolling pin. Add the crushed seeds to the ricotta mixture and stir to combine. Stir in the raisins and any unabsorbed liquid, along with the flour, vanilla, and orange zest.

Scrape the mixture into the prepared springform pan and bake the cake until it feels barely firm and the top is golden brown, about 1 hour. Remove from the oven and let cool completely.

Run a knife around the sides of the cake to help loosen it from the pan. Release the sides of the springform pan.

Cut into wedges and garnish each serving with strips of candied orange peel.

SERVING:
The cake is best served at room temperature. A compote of sweetened fresh peach slices or strawberries, or a drizzle of
Bittersweet Chocolate Sauce
spiked with amaretto is an excellent accompaniment.

STORAGE:
Ricotta cheesecake will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

VARIATION:
I also like serving this cake with a
TANGY RHUBARB SAUCE
. Wash and dry 2 stalks of rhubarb, then cut them into ½-inch (1.5-cm) pieces. In a small saucepan, simmer the rhubarb in 1½ cups (375 ml) water over medium-low heat until tender, about 10 minutes. In a blender, purée the rhubarb along with its cooking liquid, 3 tablespoons (45 g) sugar, and 2 tablespoons (30 ml) Grand Marnier or other orange-flavored liqueur. Taste and add another tablespoon of sugar if you wish.

MAKES ONE 8-INCH (20-CM) SQUARE CAKE; 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

I’ve been unable to master Arabic, so I have no idea if there’s a translation for the phrase “snack cake.” My mother, who was half Syrian (and never mastered Arabic either), often made this cake for me when I was a kid. As an adult, I frequently find myself craving a piece for a snack. Or whatever a between-meal nibble is called.

When I got the recipe from her, I read it through and noticed there wasn’t any butter in the cake. I figured it was probably a mistake, but when I baked it up, I found that no butter was necessary—the cake simply didn’t need it. It does benefit from a very generous dusting of powdered sugar, which can be a little messy, but part of the fun of Middle Eastern desserts is licking your sugary fingers after you’ve polished off the last bite.

2 cups (12 ounces/340 g) pitted dates, quartered

1 cup (100 g) walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped

1 cup (140 g) all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

¾ teaspoon aniseed

3 large eggs, at room temperature

1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar

3 tablespoons (45 ml) orange juice (freshly squeezed or store-bought)

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Powdered sugar, for dusting the cake

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter the bottom and sides of an 8-inch (20-cm) square cake pan, dust it with flour, and tap out any excess.

In a small bowl, use your fingers to toss together the dates, walnuts, and 1 tablespoon of the flour, breaking up the sticky date pieces.

In another small bowl, whisk together the remaining flour, the baking powder, and salt. Crush the aniseed in a mortar and pestle or seal them inside a sturdy plastic bag and crush with a rolling pin. Add the crushed seeds to the flour mixture and stir to combine.