Read Ready for Dessert Online

Authors: David Lebovitz

Ready for Dessert (9 page)

BOOK: Ready for Dessert
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CAKE

1½ cups (120 g) sliced unblanched or blanched almonds

½ cup (80 g) buckwheat flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

¾ cup (6 ounces/85 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

½ cup (100 g) plus 6 tablespoons (75 g) sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

4 large eggs, separated, at room temperature

¼ teaspoon salt

POACHED APPLES

3 very firm medium apples (1½ pounds/675 g), such as Granny Smith or Golden Delicious

3 cups (750 ml) apple cider or unsweetened apple juice

½ cup (100 g) sugar

1 cinnamon stick

5 whole cloves

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23-cm) cake pan and line the bottom with a circle of parchment paper.

To make the cake, in a food processor fitted with the metal blade or in a blender, pulverize the almonds with the buckwheat flour and baking powder until the almonds are powdery and very finely ground.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a bowl by hand), beat together the butter and the ½ cup (100 g) sugar on medium speed until very light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Beat in the vanilla and the egg yolks, one at a time, until combined.

In a clean, dry bowl and with the whip attachment, whisk the egg whites on low speed until frothy. Add the salt and continue to whisk until the whites begin to hold their shape. Increase the speed to high, gradually add the remaining 6 tablespoons (75 g) sugar, and continue whisking on high speed until the whites form soft, shiny peaks.

Add the almond-buckwheat mixture to the creamed butter mixture and stir with a rubber spatula to combine. Stir in about one-third of the whipped egg whites (the batter will be thick, but the egg whites will lighten it up). Carefully fold in the remaining egg whites just until incorporated. Don’t overfold.
Scrape the batter into the prepared cake pan and bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Let cool completely.

Run a knife around the sides of the cake to help loosen it from the pan. Invert the cake onto a plate, peel off the parchment paper, and re-invert the cake onto a serving platter.

To poach the apples, peel them and, using a melon baller ½ inch (1.5 cm) in diameter, scoop out balls. Or, cut the peeled apples into ½-inch (1.5-cm) slices.

In a small saucepan, warm the cider, ½ cup (100 g) sugar, the cinnamon stick, and cloves. Drop in the apple balls or slices and simmer gently over medium-low heat until the apple pieces are just tender, about 10 minutes. Serve wedges of the cake with the warm poached apples and a spoonful of their syrup.

STORAGE:
The cake will keep for up to 5 days, well wrapped, at room temperature. The poached apples are even better made a day in advance, refrigerated, and rewarmed before serving.

VARIATION:
Instead of the cider-poached apples, you might try serving the cake with orange segments drizzled with Tangerine
Butterscotch Sauce
or with slices of fresh peaches or nectarines tossed with a bit of sugar.

 

Spiced Plum Streusel Cake with Toffee Glaze

MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) CAKE; 10 SERVINGS

There seems to be an irksome theme in dessert books suggesting that a particular cake or pastry be served “with tea, in the afternoon.” I don’t know who has time to sit around and sip tea in the middle of the day, but I know at least one person who can usually be found foraging in his kitchen in the late afternoon, on the prowl for something to snack on.

This cake combines everything I crave: tangy plums, toffee with a bit of salt, and buttery cake. If you do take tea in the afternoon, I’m sure it’d be a fine accompaniment. But I’m happy to enjoy it all by itself, whenever I can.

STREUSEL

1 cup (80 g) sliced unblanched or blanched almonds

2 tablespoons (8 g) all-purpose flour

⅓ cup (70 g) packed light brown sugar

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon freshly ground cardamom

1½ tablespoons unsalted or salted butter, melted

CAKE

1½ cups (210 g) all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

1½ teaspoons freshly ground cardamom

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon salt

½ cup (4 ounces/115 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

¾ cup (150 g) granulated sugar

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ cup (125 ml) buttermilk, at room temperature

5 medium plums (12 ounces/340 g), halved, pitted, and cut into eighths

GLAZE

2 tablespoons (1 ounce/30 g) unsalted or salted butter, cut into pieces

3 tablespoons (45 g) dark brown sugar

3 tablespoons (45 ml) heavy cream

Big pinch of salt

¼ teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23-cm) springform pan.

To make the streusel, in a medium bowl, combine the sliced almonds, 2 tablespoons (8 g) flour, the light brown sugar, ½ teaspoon cinnamon, ½ teaspoon cardamom, and 1½ tablespoons melted butter. Toss the mixture with a fork or your fingers until evenly moistened, making sure the almonds are well dispersed. Set aside.

To make the cake, in a small bowl, whisk together the 1½ cups (210 g) flour, the baking powder, baking soda, 1½ teaspoons cardamom, ½ teaspoon cinnamon, and salt.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a bowl by hand), beat together the ½ cup (4 ounces/115 g) butter and granulated sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating until completely incorporated. Stir in half of the flour mixture, followed by the 1 teaspoon vanilla and the buttermilk, and finally, the remaining flour mixture. Mix until just combined.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Arrange the plum slices in an even layer on top of the batter and gently press them in. Sprinkle the streusel over the plums.

Bake until the top is nicely browned and a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, about 55 minutes. Let cool completely.

Run a knife around the sides of the cake to help loosen it from the pan. Release the sides of the springform pan.

To make the glaze, in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, melt the 2 tablespoons (1 ounce/30 g) butter with the dark brown sugar, cream, and salt. Increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil, then decrease the heat to medium and simmer gently for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and let cool completely. Once cool, stir in the ¼ teaspoon vanilla. Spoon the glaze over the cake, encouraging some to drip down the sides.

Serve slices of the cake warm or at room temperature. Tea alongside is optional.

STORAGE:
The cake is best the same day but can be kept at room temperature for up to 4 days well wrapped.

VARIATION:
Substitute fresh apricots for the plums. A handful of fresh raspberries can be added with the fruit slices as well.

 

 

Cherry Gâteau Basque

MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) CAKE; 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

The Basque region is an area that spans the border between Spain and France, where a strong sense of nationalism has fueled a desire for independence among some of the Basque people. (I recommend
not
bringing up the topic if you go for a visit.) But one thing that all sides can agree on is that gâteau Basque is one of the region’s tastiest achievements and a great source of pride.

I’m an impartial observer, but I am partial to this dessert, which is a cross between a cake and big cookie. But being Basque, it’s naturally subject to controversy: some versions have pastry cream sandwiched between the layers and others are filled with cherry jam. While happily tasting my way through various examples in the region, I’ve enjoyed versions of both, which is a pretty good way to keep the peace.

Don’t be too concerned if the dough falls apart as you roll it; it can be pinched together and will still bake up perfectly.

DOUGH

1½ cups (210 g) all-purpose flour

½ cup (40 g) sliced blanched almonds

1 teaspoon baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

¾ cup (150 g) sugar

½ cup (4 ounces/115 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 large egg

1 large egg yolk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ teaspoon almond extract

FILLING

1 cup (240 g) good-quality sour cherry jam (see Tip)

2 teaspoons rum

1 teaspoon brandy

¾ teaspoon anise-flavored liqueur, such as Pernod or ouzo

1 large egg yolk

1 teaspoon whole milk

TIP:
Use a top-quality sour cherry jam. The less-expensive ones are primarily sugar and are too runny—you want a filling that’s plump with flavorful cherries. If you can’t find sour cherry jam, add a squirt of lemon juice to regular cherry jam.

To make the dough, in a food processor fitted with the metal blade, process the flour, almonds, baking powder, salt, and sugar until the almonds are ground to a powder. Add the butter and process until the butter is in tiny pieces.

Add the egg, egg yolk, and the vanilla and almond extracts and pulse until the dough comes together. Divide the dough into 2 pieces, one slightly larger than the other, form each into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23-cm) springform pan, dust it with flour, and tap out any excess.

To make the filling, in a small bowl, mix the cherry jam, rum, brandy, and anise-flavored liqueur. Set aside.

Dust the larger disk of dough on both sides with flour and roll it out to a 10-inch (25-cm) circle between 2 sheets of lightly floured plastic wrap. Peel off the top sheet of plastic and invert the dough into the prepared pan. Peel off the sheet of plastic that is now on top and press the dough gently into the bottom of the pan and partially up the sides. Don’t worry if the dough tears; it’s very forgiving—just patch and press together. Spread the filling over the dough, leaving a 1-inch (3-cm) border.

Roll out the second piece of dough between 2 sheets of lightly floured plastic wrap. Peel off the top sheet of plastic and invert the dough over the filling. Peel off the sheet of plastic that’s now on top. Gently press the edges together to enclose the filling.

In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolk and milk and brush it liberally over the top. Rake the tines of a fork 5 or 6 times over the surface in two diagonally opposing directions to create a crosshatch design.

Bake the cake until the top is deep golden brown, about 40 minutes. Let cool for a few minutes, then run a knife around the sides to loosen it from the pan. Release the sides of the springform pan and let cool completely. Cut into wedges and serve.

STORAGE:
Gâteau Basque is actually better the second day, after the flavors have had a chance to meld. Wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, it’ll keep for about 1 week at room temperature.

VARIATION:
A prune filling for gâteau Basque isn’t exactly traditional, but since the nearby Gascon region is famous for its prunes, I’ll often make a filling with them: Quarter 8 ounces (225 g) of pitted prunes; heat them in a small saucepan with 3 tablespoons (45 ml) brandy, 1 tablespoon rum, 1 tablespoon anise-flavored liqueur, ¼ cup (50 g) sugar, and ¼ cup (60 ml) water. When the liquid comes to a boil, cover, and remove from the heat. Once cool, process the mixture in a food processor fitted with the metal blade until chunky and use in place of the cherry jam.

BOOK: Ready for Dessert
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