The Amazing World of Rice (10 page)

Serve these little pancakes, crisp on the outside and soft and tender within, as an appetizer, with a salad for a light lunch, or as a side dish with roasted chicken.

½ cup chopped onion

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

1 cup uncooked Arborio, Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, Baldo, or other medium-grain white rice

¼ cup snipped and drained sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil

1 teaspoon snipped rosemary leaves or ½ teaspoon dried rosemary 2½ cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1 large egg yolk

• 1.
  Combine the onion and olive oil in a large wide saucepan or skillet with a tight-fitting lid. Cook, stirring, over low heat until the onion is tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the rice, dried tomatoes, and rosemary; stir for 1 minute.
  
• 2.
  Meanwhile, heat the chicken broth to a simmer in a medium saucepan.
  
• 3.
  Stir 1½ cups of the hot chicken broth into the rice. Cover and cook for 10 minutes. Add ½ cup more broth; stir for 30 seconds. Cover and cook for 5 minutes. Add the remaining ½ cup chicken broth; stir for 30 seconds. Cover and cook for 5 minutes. The rice should be tender and moist. Stir in the cheese. Let cool.
  
• 4.
  Whisk the egg yolk in a large bowl. Add the cooled rice mixture and stir to blend. Spoon the rice into a 13 × 9-inch baking pan, smoothing the top with a spatula. Place plastic wrap directly on the rice and refrigerate until cold, about 30 minutes.
  
• 5.
  Using a small knife, cut the rice into 12 squares. Dampen your hands with water and shape each portion into a 2½-inch pancake about ½ inch thick. Rinse your hands frequently to prevent sticking. Refrigerate the pancakes, covered, for at least 20 minutes.
  
• 6.
  Coat a large nonstick skillet with a thin film of olive oil. Heat over medium heat. Add the pancakes and cook until the bottoms are set and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Using a wide spatula, carefully turn the pancakes and brown the other sides. Serve hot.
  

Risotto al Salto Pancakes Made from Leftover Risotto

The Italian name for pancakes made with risotto translates as “jumping risotto,” presumably because they are quickly turned in the pan or maybe because they are easy to pop right into your mouth. In Milan, where risotto reigns supreme,
risotto al salto
is made as one large pancake. I rarely have enough risotto left over to make a large pancake, so I usually make smaller ones. The formula is simple and the recipe can be doubled.

1 large egg, well beaten

1 to 2 cups cold leftover risotto

1 to 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

• 1.
  Add the beaten egg 1 tablespoon at a time to the cold stiff risotto until it is softened. You may not need to add all of the egg.
  
• 2.
  Rinsing your hands frequently with cold water to prevent sticking, shape the risotto into patties about 2 inches in diameter; set aside on wax paper. (The patties can be made ahead of time, covered, and refrigerated.)
  
• 3.
  Melt the butter in a large heavy skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium heat and heat until the foam subsides. Add the risotto pancakes and cook until browned and crusty on the bottom. Carefully turn and cook the other sides.
  
• 4.
  Serve warm, or arrange on a heatproof platter and keep warm in an oven set on lowest temperature until ready to serve. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan just before serving.
  

Arancini are balls of rice stuffed with meat or cheese and fried until crisp golden brown. In Sicily, they are a popular street food, fried right before your eyes. The rice is usually cooked with saffron, which turns it a pale orange color, perhaps the reason they are called
arancini
, “little oranges.” In this recipe the arancini are stuffed with a mixture of beef or pork slowly simmered with tomato and seasoned with cinnamon and dried currants. The variation that follows is a simpler version that stuffs the rice with cubes of cheese or prosciutto.

Besides the saffron, the rice is seasoned generously with grated cheese. I prefer the taste of Parmigiano-Reggiano, but pecorino Romano, a sheep's milk cheese, is probably more authentic. This is a fairly labor intensive recipe, but the components can be made a day or two ahead. The meat filling makes enough for 24 arancini, double the amount that is needed. I usually freeze any portion I don't use if I can get it away from my husband, John, who likes it spooned onto a toasted roll. It is also delicious served over a platter of steaming hot rice. The arancini can be served as a snack or with a glass of wine before dinner. They can be fried ahead and served at room temperature or reheated in a 350°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes. Leftovers freeze well, but my guess is there won't be any to freeze.

Filling

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

12 ounces boneless pork shoulder or beef round or chuck, cut into 1½-inch chunks

½ cup finely chopped onion

¼ cup finely chopped carrot

1 garlic clove, minced

2 cups reduced-sodium beef broth, or more if needed

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 cinnamon stick

2 tablespoons dried currants

¼ cup frozen petite peas, thawed

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Rice

2½ cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

¼ teaspoon crushed saffron threads

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

¹
/
₃
cup finely chopped onion

1 garlic clove, minced

1 cup uncooked Arborio, Vialone Nano, Carnaroli, Baldo, or other medium-grain white rice

½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or pecorino Romano

 

2 large eggs, separated

1 cup all-purpose flour

About 2 cups fine dry bread crumbs

4 to 8 cups olive or other vegetable oil for deep-frying

• 1.
  For the filling:
  Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or deep heavy skillet with a tight-fitting lid. Add the meat and brown over medium-high heat. Stir in the onion and carrot; cook, stirring, over low heat until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic; cook for 1 minute. Add the beef broth, tomato paste, and cinnamon stick; heat to a boil. Cover and cook over low heat for 1½ to 2 hours, or until the meat is very tender. Check the broth level occasionally and add more broth or water if needed. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the meat to a platter and let stand until cool; set the pot aside.
  
• 2.
  Cut the meat into thin slices, then shred it or chop into small pieces. Return the meat to the cooking juices and add the currants. Cook, uncovered, over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the broth is almost completely reduced, about 10 minutes. Add the peas. Cook, stirring, until the mixture is very dry and thick, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and season to taste with salt and pepper. (The filling can be made up to 2 days ahead, covered, and refrigerated.)
  
• 3.
  For the rice:
  Heat the broth to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the saffron and set aside to infuse.
  
• 4.
  Combine the oil and onion in a large wide saucepan; cook, stirring, over medium-low heat until the onion is tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic; cook for 1 minute. Add the rice; stir to coat with the oil. Stir in the saffron-infused broth; heat to a boil, stirring to keep the rice from sticking. Cover and cook over medium-low heat for 20 minutes, or until the broth is absorbed and the rice is very tender. Stir in the cheese. Let cool to room temperature.
  
• 5.
  For the arancini:
  Beat the egg yolks; stir into the rice mixture until well blended. Spread the rice in a 13 × 9-inch baking pan. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the rice. Refrigerate until cold and easy to shape, about 30 minutes.
  
• 6.
  When ready to shape the arancini, whisk the egg whites in a shallow bowl until foamy. Place the flour and bread crumbs on two separate sheets of wax paper. Have ready a tray or baking sheet. Use a knife to cut the rice mixture into 12 squares. Wet your hands with cold water. Lift a square of rice and place it in the palm of your hand. Flatten the rice mound in the palm of your hand and spoon
  a rounded tablespoonful of the meat mixture in the center. Gently close your hand so that the meat is surrounded by rice. Repeat with the remaining rice, wetting your hands frequently to prevent the rice from sticking to them.
  
• 7.
  When all the arancini are formed, coat them one at a time with the flour; shake off excess. Dip into the beaten egg white; let the excess drip off. Roll in the bread crumbs, making sure to cover evenly; shake off excess. Place the arancini on the tray as they are prepared. Refrigerate for 20 to 30 minutes to set and dry out slightly.
  
• 8.
  To fry the arancini:
  Heat the oil in a deep-fryer or wide deep saucepan to 350°F, or hot enough to turn a crust of bread golden. Fry the arancini a few at a time, turning, until dark golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove with the fry basket, if you used one, or slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Serve warm or at room temperature.
  

NOTE:
The arancini can be made smaller if preferred. Use a ¼-cup measure to portion out the rice, or spreading it into a pan as above, chill, and then cut the rice into small squares. Conversely, the arancini can be made larger by using about ½ cup rice for each or cutting the rice in the pan into larger squares.

 

ARANCINI WITH PROSCIUTTO AND CHEESE FILLING.
This is a simple version of arancini with a filling of diced prosciutto and cheese instead of the more traditional cooked meat filling.

Substitute about 4 ounces prosciutto cut
¹
/
₈
inch thick and 4 ounces provolone, mozzarella, Italian Fontina, or Gorgonzola for the meat filling. Cut the prosciutto and cheese into small dice and use a few pieces in the center of each arancini.

Stuffed grape leaves, or
dolmades,
as they are called in Greece, are stuffed with rice, meat, or lentils, or any combination of the three, plus herbs, most conspicuously fresh mint and dill. This recipe is from Barbara Chernetz, who grew up in Rochester, New York, next door to a Greek family.

One 8-ounce jar grape leaves

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 cup finely chopped onions

2 garlic cloves, minced

¹
/
₃
cup uncooked long-grain white rice or basmati rice

½ teaspoon ground allspice

1 cinnamon stick

½ teaspoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons pignoli (pine nuts), toasted

2 tablespoons dried currants

1 tablespoon chopped mint

1 tablespoon chopped dill

1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Lemon wedges

• 1.
  Rinse the grape leaves under cold water; drain. Blot dry with paper towels. Use a sharp knife to cut the stems from the leaves. Reserve any torn or small leaves separately.
  
• 2.
  Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a medium saucepan. Add the onion; cook over medium-low heat, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic; cook for 1 minute. Add the rice, allspice, and cinnamon stick; cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add
  ²
  /
  ₃
  cup water and the salt; heat to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until all the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes.
  
• 3.
  Remove the rice from the heat; discard the cinnamon stick. Stir in the pignoli, currants, mint, dill, and parsley. Add a grinding of black pepper.
  
• 4.
  Place one grape leaf smooth side down on a work surface. Place about 1 tablespoon of the rice mixture in the center of the leaf. Fold in the sides of the leaf
  and firmly roll up the leaf to make an oval package. Repeat with the remaining ingredients until you have 24 stuffed grape leaves.
  
• 5.
  Line a large skillet with a tight-fitting lid with the remaining grape leaves (including the reserved torn or small ones). Place the stuffed grape leaves in a single layer, seam side down, in the skillet, lining them up side by side. Combine 2 tablespoons water, the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and the lemon juice in a small bowl. Sprinkle over the grape leaves. Heat over medium-high heat until the liquid is simmering. Cover and cook over medium-low heat for 30 minutes; check occasionally to make sure the grape leaves are moist, and add more water, a few tablespoons at a time if needed. Let cool.
  
• 6.
  Serve at room temperature or cold, with lemon wedges.
  

These small balls of sushi rice are great party fare. I serve them to groups of friends and let them shape and stuff their own as we stand at the counter or sit and talk. First give everyone a hot towel to wipe their hands. Supply small bowls of cold water for rinsing and dampening hands as the sushi balls are formed. The rice can be made ahead and kept at room temperature until ready to shape. All of the stuffings and condiments can be measured out and placed in small bowls. It is difficult to give exact amounts since people will pick and choose their own combinations, but don't worry, leftovers will never go to waste. I took my leftovers and mixed them together with the leftover rice to make a luscious rice salad. Forming the balls takes a little practice. Have fun and enjoy. Serve cold beer, dry white wine, or sake with these.

2 cups uncooked medium-grain Japanese-style rice (Kokuho Rose, Botan, Nishiki, Tamaki, or Mogami)

½ cup unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

Kosher salt

Fish fillings (2 or 3 of the following)

3-ounce piece of sushi-quality fresh tuna, minced

3-ounce piece sushi-quality fresh salmon, minced

3 ounces cooked shrimp, minced

2 ounces smoked salmon, minced

Vegetable fillings (2 or 3 of the following)

¼ cup minced seedless cucumber

¼ cup minced scallion (white and green parts)

¼ cup diced (
¹
/
₈
-inch) avocado

2 tablespoons minced shiso leaf, optional

Condiments (2 or 3 of the following: see Note)

2 tablespoons minced pickled ginger

1 tablespoon wasabi paste

1 tablespoon red plum paste

Seasonings

¼ cup brown sesame seeds (see Note)

Soy sauce, preferably Japanese

• 1.
  Place the rice in a large bowl; cover with cold water and stir; drain. Repeat three or more times until the water is clear. (Rinsing the rice releases the excess starch and helps the rice absorb the vinegar.)
  
• 2.
  Place the rice in a large deep pot with straight sides and a tight-fitting lid. Add 2
  ¹
  /
  ₃
  cups water and let stand for 10 minutes. Set the pot over high heat; heat to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 5 minutes.
  
• 3.
  Meanwhile, combine the vinegar, sugar, and salt in a cup. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Set aside.
  
• 4.
  Use a wet wooden rice paddle or wooden spoon to scrape the rice out onto a large tray or platter, spreading it out with the paddle. With a fan or a piece of cardboard, immediately begin to fan the rice to cool it off while turning it with the paddle to expose the hot rice on the bottom. When there is no longer any steam rising from the rice, begin to sprinkle it with the vinegar mixture, turning the rice with the wet paddle to season evenly. Then keep fanning until the rice has a glossy sheen. Cover the rice with a dampened cloth to keep it moist. (Do not use aluminum foil or anything that will collect condensation; do not refrigerate.)
  
• 5.
  Just before you are ready to make the balls, place the ingredients for the fillings and coatings in small individual bowls. Have handy a small spoon or butter knife for each of the bowls.
  
• 6.
  Wetting your hands frequently to keep the rice from sticking, pinch off a small (about 2 tablespoons) portion of the rice. Place in the palm of your hand and squeeze to compress the grains. Then flatten slightly in your palm and make an indentation in the center with a finger of your other hand. Add a tiny pinch of each stuffing (usually a combination of 2 or 3) to the indentation. Carefully close your hand and squeeze to form the rice into a ball around the filling. Dip or roll balls in sesame seeds and/or scallions. Or sprinkle seeds and/or scallions over the tops. (Instead of stuffing the balls, you can simply make small balls of rice and roll in scallions or sesame seeds.) Arrange the rice balls on a platter and serve. Serve with small dishes of soy sauce for dipping. (Rice balls can be made a few hours ahead, arranged on a platter, covered with a wet cloth and set aside at room temperature until ready to serve.)
  

NOTE:
These ingredients are available in Japanese markets or the Asian section of some supermarkets.

Popular combinations of ingredients: raw salmon or tuna, wasabi and pickled ginger; tuna, red plum paste, scallion or shiso; raw salmon or shrimp, pickled ginger and scallion; smoked salmon or shrimp, avocado and cucumber; red plum paste, cucumber and shiso; shrimp, cucumber, and pickled ginger; and so on.