The Big Book of Curry Recipes (2 page)

Starters, in the European sense (particularly soups) are not really a part of Indian cuisines. Indeed, it was the British, who wanted meals served as they were at home, who introduced the idea of a dish before the main meal into Indian cookery. As a result it’s hard to find dishes that could be classed as a soup or a starter from the Indian sub-Continent. However, there are a few such dishes and a selection of them is collected here.

Amb Halad Ka Shorba  (Zedoary Soup)

Amb Halad Ka Shorba (Zedoary Soup) is a traditional Indian recipe for a soup dish of mixed vegetables that’s flavoured with Zedoary root (a relative of ginger).

Ingredients:

6 tbsp fine (French) beans finely chopped

6 tbsp carrots finely chopped

6 tbsp peas

6 tbsp sweetcorn

4 tbsp sunflower oil

2 onions finely chopped

6 tbsp blanched, skinned and chopped tomatoes

1 tsp sugar

4 tbsp red wine vinegar

4 tbsp coriander leaves

1 tsp zedoary finely chopped

salt to taste

Method:

Bring some 600ml (2 1/2 cups) water to the boil, add the vegetables, reduce to a simmer and cook until they are done but remain firm. Reserve these and the cooking liquid and set aside.

Meanwhile add oil to a separate pan and fry the onion until they are golden in colour. Add the tomatoes and sugar and continue cooking until the tomatoes become soft and mushy. Add the vegetables to the tomato mixture along with the reserved broth, the vinegar, the chopped coriander leaves and the zedoary. Bring to the boil and immediately take off the heat. Serve immediately.

Kokam Soup

Kokam Soup is a traditional Indian recipe for a spiced soup made with kokam (kokum) fruit. The full recipe is presented here and I hope you enjoy this classic Indian version of: Kokam Soup.

This dish is a traditional Ayuravedic soup intended as a starter to increase appetite or as a digestif after the meal.

Ingredients:

9 dried kokam fruit [mangosteen] (or 20 pieces of kokum rind)

2 tbsp ghee

900ml (3 3/4 cups) water

1 tbsp coriander leaves, chopped

4 curry leaves

1/2 tbsp cumin seeds

1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

4 whole cloves

2 tbsp chickpea flour

2 bay leaves

1/2 tsp salt

2 large pinches black pepper

1 tbsp palm sugar (or Demerara sugar)

Method:

Soak the kokam fruit in 250ml (1 cup) of water for 20 minutes, ensuring that you squeeze the fruit (or rind) several times to extract as much flavour as possible. Discard the kokum when done.

Heat a dry frying pan and toast the cumin and cloves until they release their flavour. Transfer to a pestle and mortar or coffee grinder and reduce to a fine powder. Meanwhile heat a saucepan and add the ghee. Once the ghee is hot add the ground spices, curry leaves, coriander and bay leaves. Cook for a minute then add the fruit water and 400ml (1 2/3 cups) water. Mix the chickpea flour with the remaining 250ml (1 cup) of water then add this to the soup.

Stirring continuously to prevent lumps, add the black pepper, salt and palm sugar. Still stirring, boil gently for five minutes. Serve immediately.

Cholay Chaat  (Chickpea Salad)

Cholay Chaat (Chickpea Salad) is a traditional Pakistani recipe for a classic mixed salad of potatoes, coriander, chickpeas and chillies flavoured with chaat masala and tamarind chutney.

Ingredients:

900g (2 lb) cooked chickpeas (tinned is fine)

1 large potato

2 tbsp fresh coriander leaves, chopped

1 green chilli, finely sliced

2 tbsp
Chaat Masala

3 tbsp
tamarind chutney

1/4 onion, diced

1 tomato, diced

salt, to taste

Method:

Add the potato to a pan of boiling water and cook until soft (about 35 minutes). Remove from the pan, set aside until you can handle then cook and cube.

Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl and mix thoroughly. Taste and add more chaat masala and/or tamarind chutney, if desired

Chicken Chaat

Chicken Chaat (Chicken Snacks) is a traditional Pakistani recipe for a classic dish of fried, spiced, chicken pieces that can be served either as a starter or as a snack.

Ingredients:

1 boneless chicken breast

1 tsp salt (or to taste)

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 tbsp cooking oil

1 1/2 tsp ground coriander seeds

1/4 tsp ground turmeric

1/4 tsp hot chilli powder

1 1/2 tbsp lemon juice

a few fresh coriander leaves, chopped, for garnish

salt, to taste

Method:

Wash the chicken and pat dry then cut into 3cm pieces. Heat the oil in a wok or frying pan then add the garlic and salt and fry until the garlic is lightly brown (about 3 minutes). Add the chicken pieces and fry for about 5 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through, stirring constantly. Add the coriander, turmeric and chilli powder and continue frying for about 4 minutes more, stirring frequently.

Remove from the heat, transfer to a serving dish and garnish with the lemon juice and chopped coriander leaves.

Hareesa

Hareesa is a traditional North Indian recipe for a classic Arabic-influenced soup of lamb and whole wheat served with a garnish of spiced clarified butter. The full recipe is presented here and I hope you enjoy this classic Indian version of: Hareesa.

This is an Indian version of a lamb/mutton soup/stew that’s common to the entire Arabic world from North Africa, through East Africa, the Arabian Peninsula, Pakistan and Northern India. The dish is called Harees in Arabic and is known as Boko-Boko on East Africa.

Ingredients:

1kg (2 lb) lamb or mutton meat, diced

25g (1 oz) basmati rice

50g (2 oz) wheat grains (soaked over night and chopped)

25g (1 oz) green lentils

50g (2 oz) onion, copped

3 tsp freshly-ground black peppercorns

1 tsp garlic, minced

salt, to taste

oil to fry

1 onion, sliced

50g (2 oz) ghee (clarified butter)

1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

1 tsp ground cumin

6 green cardamom seeds

Method:

Boil the rice and lentils in a pan of lightly salted water for about 25 minutes (or until tender) then drain and set aside.

Add a little oil to a pan and use to fry the onions and garlic for 2 minutes before adding the meat. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring frequently then add just enough water to cover the meat. Bring to a boil, reduce to a low simmer then cook for about 90 minutes, or until the meat is tender.

Remove the meat with a slotted spoon and pound to a paste with a pestle and mortar (or use a food processor). Return the meat paste to the pan along with the chopped wheat. Return to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook gently for about 30 minutes, or until the wheat is completely soft. Add the rice and lentil mix to the pan, season with the black pepper and cook for 20 minutes more.

Add the ghee to a pan and use to fry the onion until well-browned (about 10 minutes) then stir-in the cinnamon, cumin and cardamom and fry for 2 minutes more. Turn the meat mixture into a bowl, top with the fried onion mixture (and the oil) and serve.

Cream of Carrot Soup

Cream of Carrot Soup is a traditional Sri Lankan recipe for a classic soup of carrots and red onions in a milk-based sauce flavoured with celery and thickened with an egg yolk.

Ingredients:

225g (1/2 lb) carrots, washed and peeled

2 tsp cornflour (cornstarch)

4 red onions, finely chopped

500ml (2 cups) coconut milk

1 egg yolk, beaten

2 tsp celery, finely chopped

2 tsp butter

salt and black pepper, to taste

Method:

Chop the carrots and place in a pan. Cover with water then bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover and cook for about 30 minutes, or until tender.

Transfer the carrots and 250ml (1 cup) of their cooking liquid to a blender or liquidizer and process to a smooth purée. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a pan and use to fry the onions until soft and transparent (about 6 minutes). Now stir-in the carrot purée along with the coconut milk. Whisk the cornflour to a slurry with 2 tbsp water and add this to the pan as well. Whisk to combine then bring the mixture to a boil.

Add the celery and immediately take the pan off the heat, allow to cool for a few minutes then whisk-in the beaten egg yolk. Flavour with salt and black pepper and ladle into warmed soup bowls.

Gujarati Carrot Salad

Gujarati Carrot Salad is a traditional Indian recipe for a classic salad of grated carrots flavoured with black mustard seeds served in a lemon juice vinaigrette dressing.

Ingredients:

5 medium carrots, peeled and grated

1 tbsp whole black mustard seeds

1/4 tsp sea salt

2 tsp lemon juice

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Method:

Combine the grated carrots with the salt in a bowl, toss to combine and set aside. Heat the oil in a small, heavy-based pan over medium heat. When very hot add the mustard seeds. As soon as the seeds begin to pop (it should only take a few seconds) take the oil off the heat then pour over the carrots.

Add the lemon juice and toss to combine. Allow to cool to room temperature (or chill in the refrigerator) and serve.

Motor Chaat  (Dried Peas Chaat)

Motor Chaat (Dried Peas Chaat) is a traditional Pakistani recipe for a classic starter of dried peas that are boiled until tender and served with yoghurt, tamarind sauce chutney and garam masala.

Ingredients:

300g (10 oz) dried whole peas

1/2 tsp baking powder

dash of asafoetida powder

tamarind sauce chutney

yoghurt

garam masala

Method:

Place the peas in a bowl, cover with water and set aside to soak over night. Drain the peas, transfer to a pan then add the baking powder and asafoetida. Pour over just enough water to cover the peas then bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook over medium heat for about 20 minutes, or until tender.

Drain the water and divide the peas into individual servings. Add a spoonful of the tamarind sauce chutney, a tablespoon of yoghurt and a dusting of garam masala over each serving.

Pyaaz ka Soup  (Onion Soup)

Pyaaz ka Soup (Onion Soup) is a traditional Pakistani recipe for a classic soup of onion cooked in vegetable stock thickened with breadcrumbs and flour that’s finished with cream.

Ingredients:

2 large onion, coarsely chopped

3 tbsp ghee

1 tbsp plain flour

crumbs from slices of bread

2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp freshly-ground black pepper

600ml (2 1/2 cups) water

2 vegetable bouillon cubes

5 tbsp double cream

Method:

Heat the ghee in a pan, add the onions and fry for about 8 minutes, or until golden. Now scatter the flour over the top and stir in to combine. Stir in the breadcrumbs then season with salt and black pepper.

Whisk in the water until smooth then stir in the vegetable bouillon cubes. Bring to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Ladle into warmed soup bowls, add a swirl of cream and serve.

Samish Mirchi Soup  (Mulligatawny Soup)

Samish Mirchi Soup (Mulligatawny Soup) is a traditional Indian recipe for a classic soup of mutton in a meat stock and coconut milk base flavoured with curry paste and onions.

Mulligatawny (literally ‘pepper water’) soup is an Anglo-Indian creation of the British Raj; created when the British demanded a soup from a cuisine that had never created one before. The result is excellent and well-worth making. Of course, like all such creations the Indian and British versions of the soup diverged. I have several British versions on this site, both modern and Victorian and this recipe redresses the balance, giving a classic Indian version of the soup.

Ingredients:

450g (1 lb) mutton, cut into small pieces

750ml (3 cups) water

1 tsp salt

1 tbsp ghee

1 large onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

300ml (1 1/4 cup) meat stock

80ml (1/3 cup) coconut milk

fresh lemon juice, to garnish

lemon wedges, to garnish

For the Curry Paste:

3cm (1 in) length of fresh ginger, peeled

1 tsp coriander seeds

1/2 tsp turmeric powder

8 black peppercorns

1/2 tsp white cumin seeds

1/2 tsp poppy seeds

4 dried red chillies

1 tsp sea salt

Method:

Combine all the ingredients for the curry paste in a blender and purée until smooth (add a little lemon juice if they do not blend easily).

In the meantime, combine the mutton, water and salt in a pan. Bring to a boil and cook for about 30 minutes, or until the meat is tender. Take off the heat and set aside to cool then pour into a blender and pulse to chop the meat.

Heat the ghee in a pan, add the onion and garlic and fry for about 6 minutes, or until golden. Stir in the spice paste and fry for a few minutes, or until aromatic. Now add the stock, coconut milk and the mutton mixture. Bring the ingredients to a boil and stir to combine.

Allow to heat through, then ladle into warmed soup bowls. Serve garnished with a drizzling of lemon juice and a wedge of lemon

Tamatar Ka Soup  (Tomato Soup)

Tamatar Ka Soup (Tomato Soup) is a traditional Indian recipe for a classic soup of tomatoes, carrots and onions cooked in a water base thickened with cornflour (cornstarch).

Ingredients

1 tbsp butter

1 tbsp cornflour (cornstarch)

950ml (3 4/5 cups) water

sea salt, to taste

4 large tomatoes, halved

2 carrots, scraped and thickly chopped

1 large onion, peeled and chopped

To Garnish:

double cream

freshly-ground black pepper

Method: