The Big Book of Curry Recipes (3 page)

Melt the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan over low heat then stir in the cornflour and fry, stirring constantly, until coloured light brown. Add the water and stir to combine then add tomatoes, carrots and onion before seasoning to taste. Bring to a simmer, cover the pan and cook over medium heat for 20 minutes.

Take off the heat at this point then pass through a fine-meshed sieve, pressing down on the vegetables to extract as much liquid as possible. Ladle into warmed soup bowls, topping each one with a tablespoon of double cream and a few twists of black pepper.

Upma Sooji  (Savoury Cream of Wheat Porridge)

Upma Sooji (Savoury Cream of Wheat Porridge) is a traditional Indian recipe (from the south of India), for a classic breakfast porridge of semolina flour (sooji) cooked with peas in water and flavoured with black mustard seeds, cumin seeds and peanuts.

Ingredients:

75g (3 oz) sooji (ground semolina, cream of wheat)

2 tbsp oil

1/2 tsp black mustard seeds

1/2 tsp cumin seeds

20 peanuts

1 green chilli, finely chopped

1/2 tsp salt (or to taste)

4 tbsp green peas

300ml (1 1/4 cups) water

1/2 tsp fresh lemon juice

2 tbsp fresh coriander leaves, chopped

Method:

Combine the peas and the 300ml (1 1/4 cups) water in a pan and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for about 6 minutes more, or until the peas are tender then take off the heat.

Heat the oil in a saucepan until almost smoking. Add the black mustard seeds and cumin seeds (if the oil is hot enough, they should splutter and split as soon as they are added. Now add the peanuts and fry for 1 minutes. Stir in the sooji and green chilli and stir-fry for 3 minutes over medium heat, or until the semolina flour is toasted a golden brown.

Whilst stirring constantly, add the pea and water mixture a little time, working into the fried sooji until smooth. When all the pea mixture has been added stir in the lemon juice. Cover the pan and continue cooking for 2 minutes.

Take off the heat, stir in the coriander leaves, divide between two bowls and serve.

Palak Ka Soup  (Spinach Soup)

Palak Ka Soup (Spinach Soup) is a traditional Indian recipe for a classic soup of spinach puree topped with onion and ghee that’s served with sippets of bread.

Ingredients:

250g (9 oz) fresh spinach, chopped

900ml (3 3/4 cups) water

2 tsp sea salt

1 tbsp ghee (clarified butter)

1 tbsp onion, chopped

1/2 tsp freshly-ground black pepper

5 tbsp sippets of bread

Method:

Combine the spinach, water and salt in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 5 minutes, or until the spinach is well wilted.

Turn into a fine-meshed sieve and press the spinach pulp through with the back of a spoon to puree.

In the meantime, heat the ghee in a pan, add the onion and fry for about 6 minutes, or until golden brown. Pour over the spinach purée, bring the mixture to a simmer and cook for about 5 minutes. Season with black pepper, ladle into warmed soup bowls and accompany with the bread sippets.

Mulligatawny Soup

Mulligatawny Soup is a traditional Anglo-Indian recipe for a soup dish invented in India during the British Raj to cater to the British taste for soups.

Mulligatawny (literally ‘pepper water’) soup is an Anglo-Indian creation of the British Raj; created when the British demanded a soup from a cuisine that had never created one before. The result is excellent and well-worth making.

Ingredients:

1 tbsp ghee (or vegetable oil)

1 onion, chopped

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 tbsp fresh ginger, grated

2 green chilli peppers, chopped

1cm length of cinnamon

5 cloves

2 tsp coriander seeds

1 tsp cumin seeds

1 tsp ground turmeric

4 cardamom pods, bruised

2 curry leaves, shredded

1 carrot, cubed

1 apple, peeled, cored and chopped

1 large potato, peeled and diced

150g (5 oz) red lentils

1.8l (7 1/2 cups) chicken stock

3 tbsp tamarind juice (1 tbsp tamarind pulp mixed with 2 tbsp boiling water and strained)

1 tbsp lemon juice

400ml (1 2/3 cups) coconut milk

2 tbsp fresh, chopped, coriander leaves

Method:

Place the whole spices (cinnamon, coriander, cumin, cloves) in a dry frying pan and heat until they begin to colour and start to release their aroma. Transfer to a coffee grinder and grind to a fine powder. Meanwhile add the ghee (or oil) to a large pan and on low heat cook the onion, garlic, ginger, chillies, spices and curry leaves. Stir frequently and cook until the onion is lightly browned.

Add the carrot, apple, potato, lentils and fry for about a minute then add the chicken stock. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer then cook for about 15–20 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Discard the cardamom pods and the curry leaves and allow the mixture to cool. Transfer to a blender (in batches if needed) and purée until smooth.

Return the soup back to the pan and add the lemon juice, coconut milk, fresh coriander leaves and tamarind juice (this is made by adding boiling water to tamarind pulp and stirring). Allow the soup to heat through and serve.

The soup can be prepared the day before and if desired you can add small, diced, vegetables such as carrots, fine beans, potatoes to the final mix. It also works well with shredded or diced cooked chicken.

Meat-based Curries.

Hindus tend to be either vegetarian, or avoid beef. As a result, chicken tends to be the main meat eaten in India (these curries are dealt with in the next chapter). In North India, lamb and goat are popular and beef is eaten. Though the Muslim population does not eat pork. In Goa, however, where a large portion of the population is Christian, pork is eaten. As a result, the recipes here are a representative cross-section through the entire sub-Continent.

Also included are a range of Anglo-Indian dishes from the 1890s to the 1930s.

Goan Lamb Xacutti

Goan Lamb Xacutti is a traditional Indian recipe (originating in Goa) for a classic lamb curry. The list of ingredients is long and variable and can include the use of 29 different spices. This is a simplified version, but even here 17 different spices are employed.

This is a traditional (and very tasty Goan-style) lamb curry. The spices used are variable and some recipes call for up to 29 different spices in the blend. Even this version has 17 spices that go into making the masala.

Ingredients:

For the Lamb

1 leg of lamb (2.5kg [6 lb])

1 fresh coconut

80ml (1/3 cup) fresh lemon juice

6 garlic cloves, crushed

2 tbsp finely chopped ginger

5 hot green chillies, chopped

2 tbsp vegetable oil

3 onions, sliced

225g (1/2 lb) chopped tomatoes

1 tbsp seedless
tamarind paste

1 1/2 tsp salt

For the Masala

30 dried hot chillies (Kashmiri or Piri-piri)

8 green cardamom pods

8 cloves

4 black cardamom pods

1 piece cassia bark, powdered

1/2 whole nutmeg, finely grated

2 tbsp coriander seeds

1 tbsp white or black poppy seeds

1 tbsp fennel seeds

2 tsp cumin seeds

1/2 tsp black mustard seeds

1 tsp turmeric powder

1/4 tsp ajwain

1/4 tsp aniseeds

1/3 tsp black peppercorns

3/4 tsp ground mace

3/4 tsp fenugreek seeds

Method:

To make the masala toast each spice separately in a dry frying pan over medium heat until browned and fragrant. Also prepare the coconut by cracking open (discard the liquid) and pry out the inner flesh. Pare-off the brown outer layer and grate the white flesh. Place this in a dry frying pan and toast over medium heat, stirring frequently, until browned all over (about 10 minutes). Transfer the spices and coconut to a coffee grinder and grind to a fine powder then set aside.

Cut the lamb into 3cm cubes and place in a bowl. Meanwhile purée the lemon juice, garlic, ginger and green bell peppers to a paste. Mix this with the lamb and allow to marinate for an hour at room temperature. Add oil to a large casserole dish and heat then add the onions and cook until golden brown. Stir in the lamb and increase the heat until the meat is evenly browned. Add the masala then reduce the heat and fry for about 10 minutes before adding he tomatoes, tamarind, salt and 450ml water. Bring the sauce to a simmer then reduce the heat to low and cook (partially covered), stirring often, until the meat is tender and the sauce has thickened. Serve on a bed of basmati rice.

Elaichi Gosht  (Lamb With Cardamom)

Elaichi Gosht (Lamb With Cardamom) is a traditional Indian recipe for a classic cardamom-flavoured curry of lamb.

Ingredients:

1kg (2 lb) lamb, cut into 3cm cubes

30 black peppercorns

25 cardamom pods (seeds only)

5 medium tomatoes

2.5cm (1 in) ginger, cut into small strips

120ml oil

2 large onions, finely chopped

2 tsp paprika

1 1/2 tsp salt

250ml water

3 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

Method:

Roast the peppercorns and cardamom seeds in a dry frying pan, until fragrant. Transfer to a coffee grinder and render to a smooth powder. Blend together the ginger and tomatoes in a blender.

Meanwhile heat the oil in a saucepan and fry the onions until golden brown. Add the meat and the ground spices and with constant stirring fry for 5 minutes. Add the blended tomato paste, paprika and salt. Mix to combine with the meat and cook for a further 3 minutes.

Add the water, bring to a boil then cover and lower the heat to a very low simmer and cook for an additional hour (until the lamb is tender). Spoon into a serving bowl, garnish with the coriander leaves and serve with rice.

Lamb Madras

Lamb Madras is a traditional Indian recipe for a classic highly spiced curry of lamb, curry leaves and spices cooked in stock with tomato puree until thick and aromatic.

This is the more authentic version of this dish that most people know as Beef Madras. (Most Hindus are prohibited from eating beef). However, the beef version is popular in Northern India and Pakistan and in Britain. To make Beef Madras, simply substitute beef for the lamb.

Ingredients:

1kg (2 lb) good quality lean leg of lamb cut into 3cm (1 in) cubes

3 tbsp cooking oil

1 tsp black mustard seeds

10 curry leaves (or methi [fenugreek] curry leaves)

1 medium onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, grated

3cm (1 in) piece of ginger, grated

2 tbsp ground coriander seeds

2 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp turmeric

2 tsp chilli powder (less if you don’t wan it so hot)

1 tsp salt (or to taste)

3 tbsp white wine vinegar

2 tbsp tomato purée

240ml (1 cup) beef or strong vegetable stock

generous handful of chopped coriander to garnish

Method:

Place the meat in a bowl then add the coriander, cumin, salt, turmeric, chilli powder and vinegar. Mix thoroughly to combine then set aside to marinate for at least 30 minutes.

Add the oil to a large pan or wok and fry the mustard seeds until the begin to splutter and crack. Now add the curry leaves and quickly stir into the oil before adding the onions, garlic and ginger. Continue frying until the onions are a dark golden brown (about 10 minutes) then add the meat and its spice marinade.

Continue frying until the meat is nicely browned on all sides before adding the stock and tomato purée. Bring the mixture to a boil then reduce to a simmer, cover and continue cooking for 1 hour, or until the lamb is very tender and the gravy has thickened.

Take off the heat, stir-in the coriander leaves and serve hot with plain boiled rice.

Aaloo Gosht  (Mutton Curry with Potatoes)

Aaloo Gosht (Mutton Curry with Potatoes) is a traditional Pakistani recipe for a classic curry of mutton and potatoes.

Ingredients:

1kg (2 lb) mutton, cut into 3cm (1 in) cubes

500g (1 in) potatoes, peeled and cut into 4cm (2 in) pieces

1/4 tsp turmeric powder (haldi)

1 tsp hot chilli powder

3 tbsp ground coriander seeds (dhaniya)

3 medium onions, chopped or sliced

120ml (1/2 cup) oil

1 tbsp ginger paste (or grated ginger)

1 tbsp garlic paste (or grated garlic)

1 tsp
garam masala

8 cloves (laung)

6 black peppercorns

2 black cardamom pods (bari ilaichi)

1 tsp salt (or more), to taste

100g (3 1/2 oz) fresh coriander (cilantro) leaves, shredded

3 green chillies, finely chopped

1 lemon, sliced

Method:

Heat the oil in a wok or pan. Add the onions and fry until brown then remove with a slotted spoon, grind to a paste and set aside. Add the turmeric, chilli powder, garlic, ginger and salt to the oil. Stir-fry for about 3 minutes then add the mutton and ground onions. Cook until the liquid from the met dries then add about 650ml (2 3/5 cups) water.