The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (111 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
SIMPLE BROILED ASPARAGUS
Make sure to zest the lemon before you juice it.
¹⁄ | cup extra-virgin olive oil |
1 | shallot, minced |
1 | tablespoon minced fresh thyme |
1 | teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice |
¹⁄ | teaspoon Dijon mustard |
Salt and pepper |
Whisk all ingredients together in small bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
SIMPLE BROILED ASPARAGUS
Make this vinaigrette when tomatoes are at their peak of ripeness.
1 | tomato, cored, seeded, and chopped fine (¹⁄ |
3 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
1 | shallot, minced |
1¹⁄ | tablespoons lemon juice |
1 | tablespoon minced fresh basil |
Salt and pepper |
Whisk all ingredients together in small bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
SIMPLE BROILED ASPARAGUS
Using a good balsamic vinegar makes a difference here.
6 | slices bacon, cut into ¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup extra-virgin olive oil |
¹⁄ | cup balsamic vinegar |
2 | tablespoons minced red onion |
1 | tablespoon minced fresh parsley |
Salt and pepper |
Cook bacon in 10-inch skillet over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate and set aside. Whisk oil, vinegar, onion, and parsley together in small bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle over asparagus, sprinkle with bacon, and serve immediately.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Pan-roasting is a simple stovetop cooking method that delivers crisp, evenly browned spears without the fuss of having to rotate each spear individually. We started with thicker spears (thin ones overcooked before browning) and arranged them in the pan with half pointed in one direction and half in the other. To help the asparagus release moisture, which would encourage caramelization and better flavor, we parcooked it, covered, with butter and oil before browning it. The water evaporating from the butter helped to steam the asparagus, producing bright green, crisp-tender spears. At this point, we removed the lid and cranked up the heat until the spears were evenly browned on the bottom. We found there was no need to brown the asparagus all over; tasters preferred the flavor of spears browned on only one side and, as a bonus, the half-browned spears never had a chance to go limp. We then came up with a few variations that included accent ingredients like cherry tomatoes, olives, sautéed red peppers, and goat cheese. We simply cooked any garnish ingredients first, then set them aside while we prepared the asparagus.
SERVES 4 TO 6
This recipe works best with asparagus that is at least ¹⁄
2
inch thick near the base. If using thinner spears, reduce the covered cooking time to 3 minutes and the uncovered cooking time to 5 minutes. Do not use pencil-thin asparagus; it cannot withstand the heat and overcooks too easily.
1 | tablespoon olive oil |
1 | tablespoon unsalted butter |
2 | pounds thick asparagus (see note), trimmed |
Salt and pepper | |
¹⁄ | lemon (optional) |
1.
Heat oil and butter in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. When butter has melted, add half of asparagus to skillet with tips pointed in one direction; add remaining spears with tips pointed in opposite direction. Using tongs, distribute spears evenly (spears will not quite fit into single layer); cover and cook until asparagus is bright green and still crisp, about 5 minutes.
2.
Uncover and increase heat to high; season asparagus with salt and pepper to taste. Cook until spears are tender and well browned along one side, 5 to 7 minutes, using tongs to occasionally move spears from center of pan to edge of pan to ensure all are browned. Transfer asparagus to serving dish, adjust seasonings with salt and pepper, and, if desired, squeeze lemon half over spears. Serve immediately.
Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil and 3 garlic cloves, sliced thin, in 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is crisp and golden but not dark brown, about 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer garlic to paper towel–lined plate. Follow recipe for Pan-Roasted Asparagus, adding butter to oil already in skillet. After transferring asparagus to serving dish, sprinkle with 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan and toasted garlic. Season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add ¹⁄
4
cup slivered almonds and cook, stirring frequently, until golden, about 5 minutes. Add ¹⁄
2
cup orange juice and 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, increase heat to medium-high, and simmer until thickened, about 4 minutes. Off heat, stir in 2 tablespoons minced shallot, 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer vinaigrette to small bowl. Wipe out skillet and follow recipe for Pan-Roasted Asparagus. After transferring asparagus to serving dish, pour vinaigrette over and toss to combine. Seasoning with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
Kalamata olives are a good choice for this recipe.
Add 1 tablespoon olive oil and 2 garlic cloves, sliced thin, to 12-inch skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until garlic turns golden around edges but does not darken, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 1 pint halved cherry tomatoes and ¹⁄
3
cup brine-cured olives, pitted and chopped. Cook until tomatoes begin to break down and release liquid, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer mixture to bowl, season with salt and pepper to taste and cover to keep warm. Follow recipe for Pan-Roasted Asparagus, topping asparagus with tomato mixture, 4 tablespoons chopped fresh basil, and 1 ounce grated Parmesan cheese before serving.
Cook 4 slices bacon, cut into ¹⁄
4
-inch pieces, in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate; set aside. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from pan. Return skillet to medium-high heat and add 1 large red onion, halved and sliced thin. Cook, stirring occasionally, until edges darken and onion begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar and 1 tablespoon maple syrup to skillet and cook until liquids reduce and cling to onions, about 2 minutes. Transfer onions to bowl, season with salt and pepper to taste, and cover to keep warm. Follow recipe for Pan-Roasted Asparagus, topping asparagus with onion mixture and bacon before serving.
Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add 2 red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ¹⁄
4
-inch-wide strips, and cook, stirring occasionally, until skins begin to blister, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer peppers to bowl, season with salt and pepper to taste, and cover to keep warm. Follow recipe for Pan-Roasted Asparagus, topping asparagus with peppers, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, 4 ounces crumbled goat cheese, and ¹⁄
4
cup toasted pine nuts before serving.
STORING ASPARAGUS
To determine how to best maintain asparagus’s bright color and crisp texture, we tested refrigerating spears in the plastic bag we’d bought them in, enclosed in a paper bag, wrapped in a damp paper towel, and with the stalk ends trimmed and standing up in a small amount of water. After three days the results were clear. Those left in the plastic bag had become slimy, while the paper bag and towel bunches had shriveled tips and limp stalks. However, the bunch stored in water looked as good as fresh and retained its firm texture. To store asparagus this way, trim the bottom ½ inch of the stalks and stand the spears upright in a glass. Add enough water to cover the bottom of the stalks by 1 inch and place the glass in the refrigerator. Asparagus stored this way should remain relatively fresh for about four days; you may need to add a little more water every few days. Re-trim the very bottom of the stalks before using.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Green beans are a classic side for any holiday meal but we wanted a recipe that would alleviate some of the typical last-minute cooking frenzy. For green beans that could be cooked ahead of time and given a quick finishing touch before serving, we found blanching to be the best method, as it guaranteed evenly cooked, well-seasoned beans with a crisp texture. Once the beans were blanched and cooled, we refrigerated them for up to three days. On the day of serving, we simply tossed them in a hot skillet with a little water to warm them through quickly. To dress up the green beans, we came up with a few simple butter sauces.
SERVES 4
To serve the beans right away, increase the blanching time to 5 to 6 minutes and don’t bother shocking them in ice water.
1 | pound green beans, trimmed |
1 | teaspoon salt |
Bring 2¹⁄
2
quarts water to boil in large saucepan over high heat. Add green beans and salt, return to boil, and cook until beans are bright green and crisp-tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Meanwhile, fill large bowl with ice water. Drain beans, then transfer immediately to ice water bath. When beans no longer feel warm to touch, drain beans again, then dry thoroughly with paper towels. Transfer beans to large zipper-lock bag and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 3 days.
SERVES 4
The amount of shallots in this recipe may seem like a lot, but they cook down.
4 | tablespoons unsalted butter |
5 | ounces shallots, sliced thin |
1 | recipe |
Salt and pepper | |
2 | tablespoons dry vermouth |
1.
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in 8-inch skillet over medium heat. Add shallots and cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown, fragrant, and just crisp around the edges, about 10 minutes. Set aside.
2.
Heat beans and ¹⁄
4
cup water in 12-inch skillet over high heat and cook, tossing frequently with tongs, until beans are warmed through, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and transfer to serving platter.
3.
Return shallots to high heat, stir in vermouth, and bring to simmer. Whisk in remaining 2 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon at a time; season with salt and pepper to taste. Top beans with shallots and sauce and serve immediately.