The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (249 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
SERVES 1
You can substitute cheddar, Monterey Jack, or another semisoft cheese for the Gruyère.
3 | large eggs |
Salt and pepper | |
¹⁄ | tablespoon unsalted butter, plus melted butter for brushing omelet |
3 | tablespoons finely shredded Gruyère cheese |
1 | recipe filling (recipes follow) |
1.
Beat eggs and salt and pepper to taste with fork in small bowl until thoroughly combined.
2.
Melt butter in 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add eggs and cook until edges begin to set, 2 to 3 seconds. Using heatproof rubber spatula, stir in circular motion until slightly thickened, about 10 seconds. Use spatula to pull cooked edges in toward center, then tilt pan to one side so that uncooked eggs run to edge of pan. Repeat until omelet is just set but still moist on surface, 20 to 25 seconds. Sprinkle Gruyère and filling down center of omelet.
3.
Remove skillet from burner. Using rubber spatula, fold lower third (portion nearest you) of omelet over filling; press gently with spatula to secure seams, maintaining fold.
4.
Run spatula between outer edge of omelet and pan to loosen. Jerk pan sharply toward you a few times to slide omelet up far side of pan. Jerk pan again so that unfolded edge folds over itself, or use spatula to fold edge over. Invert omelet onto plate. Tidy edges with spatula, brush with melted butter, and serve.
OMELET FILLING—READY AND HOT
Omelets come together incredibly quickly, so you should be sure to have your filling at the ready. But equally important is to make sure your filling is hot, or at least warm. Once added to an omelet, the filling spends little time in the pan, so cold fillings will not have time to heat through.
MAKES
¹⁄
2
CUP, ENOUGH TO FILL 2 OMELETS
This filling is particularly good paired with Gruyère.
Melt 1 tablespoon butter in 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add 1 minced small shallot and cook until softened and just beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Add 2 ounces white mushrooms, trimmed and sliced ¹⁄
4
inch thick, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Off heat, stir in 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme and salt and pepper to taste; transfer mixture to small bowl and set aside, covered to keep warm, until ready to use.
MAKES
¹⁄
2
CUP, ENOUGH TO FILL 2 OMELETS
Smoked Gouda is a good match for this filling.
Cook 2 slices bacon, cut into ¹⁄
2
-inch pieces, in 10-inch skillet over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate using slotted spoon. Discard all but 1 tablespoon fat from skillet. Add ¹⁄
2
small onion, chopped fine, and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Off heat, stir in 1 thinly sliced scallion. Remove paper towel from underneath bacon and transfer onion mixture to plate with bacon; set aside, covered to keep warm, until ready to use.
MAKES
¹⁄
2
CUP, ENOUGH TO FILL 2 OMELETS
Monterey Jack is our choice for this filling.
Melt 1 tablespoon butter in 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add ¹⁄
2
small onion, chopped fine, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add 1 ounce white mushrooms, trimmed and sliced ¹⁄
4
inch thick, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Add ¹⁄
4
red bell pepper, cut into ¹⁄
2
-inch pieces, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in 1 teaspoon minced fresh parsley. Transfer mixture to small bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste; set aside, covered to keep warm, until ready to use.
1.
Pull cooked eggs from edges of pan toward center, tilting pan so any uncooked eggs run to pan’s edges.
2.
Sprinkle filling down center of omelet. Remove skillet from burner. Fold lower third of eggs over filling. Press seam to secure.
3.
Pull pan sharply toward you so omelet slides up far edge of pan.
4.
Fold far edge of omelet toward center. Press to secure seam. Invert omelet onto plate.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
For a diner-style asparagus omelet that would be moist, tender, and sturdy enough to support the filling, we focused on how to manipulate the eggs in the pan and the temperature at which to cook them. We opted for the easy approach of lifting the setting omelet with a rubber spatula to allow the uncooked eggs to pool underneath and cook. We kept the heat at medium-low, finishing the omelet off the burner to keep it tender. This gave us a robust omelet that was moist, tender, and sturdy enough for plenty of asparagus and cheese.
SERVES 2
When cooking the eggs, it is important to lift the edges of the omelet rather than push them toward the center.
2 | tablespoons unsalted butter |
8 | ounces asparagus, trimmed and cut on bias into ¹⁄ |
Salt and pepper | |
1 | shallot, halved and sliced thin |
1 | teaspoon lemon juice |
5 | large eggs |
1¹⁄ | ounces Gruyère cheese, shredded fine (¹⁄ |
1.
Melt 1 tablespoon butter in 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add asparagus, pinch salt, and pepper to taste and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Add shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, until asparagus is lightly browned and tender, 2 to 4 minutes longer. Add lemon juice and toss to coat; transfer to bowl. Meanwhile, beat eggs and salt and pepper to taste with fork in small bowl until combined.
2.
Wipe skillet clean with paper towel. Melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter in now-empty skillet over medium-low heat. Add eggs and cook, without stirring, until eggs begin to set, 45 to 60 seconds. Using heatproof rubber spatula and working around edge of entire pan, lift edge of cooked egg, then tilt pan to one side so that uncooked eggs run underneath; gently scrape uncooked eggs toward rim of skillet, until top is just slightly wet, 1¹⁄
2
to 2 minutes. Let pan sit without moving for 30 seconds. Off heat, sprinkle asparagus mixture in even layer over omelet, then sprinkle cheese evenly over asparagus. Cover and let sit until eggs no longer appear wet, 4 to 5 minutes.
3.
Return skillet to medium heat for 30 seconds. Using rubber spatula, loosen edges of omelet from skillet. Slide omelet halfway out of pan onto serving plate. Tilt pan so top of omelet folds over itself. Cut omelet in half and serve immediately.
Add 2 teaspoons whole grain mustard to asparagus along with lemon juice in step 1. Add 3 ounces Black Forest ham, cut into ¹⁄
4
-inch pieces, along with asparagus mixture in step 2.
Before adding lemon juice in step 1, add 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme, 1 minced garlic clove, and pinch cayenne pepper to skillet and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Proceed as directed. Add ¹⁄
3
cup jarred roasted red peppers, rinsed, patted dry, and cut into ¹⁄
4
-inch pieces, to omelet along with asparagus. Substitute fontina for Gruyère.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
In contrast to half-moon, diner-style omelets stuffed to the seams, the French omelet is a pristine, rolled affair. The temperature of the pan must be just right, the eggs beaten just so, and hand movements must be as swift as the ability to gauge the exact second the omelet is done. Even a few extra seconds can spell disaster. A French omelet should boast an ultra-creamy texture, rolled over minimal filling. We replaced the classic omelet pan and fork with a simple nonstick skillet and wooden skewers. We preheated the pan slowly over low heat to eliminate hot spots. Exact timing gives the omelet its creaminess, but we wanted to cheat with creamy ingredients; cold butter worked perfectly. Beating the eggs correctly is the key to lightness so we found the perfect number of strokes. We needed at least medium-high heat to puff up the eggs with steam, but the omelet cooked too quickly to judge when it was done. We turned off the heat when the eggs were still runny, letting residual heat do the rest of the cooking, giving us a flawless, creamy French omelet.
See “MAKING A FRENCH OMELET” illustrations that follow recipe.